VIETNAM

Contents
PLAN YOUR TRIP
The Journey Begins Here
Vietnam Map
Our Picks
Regions & Cities
Itineraries
When to Go
Get Prepared
The Food Scene
The Outdoors
THE GUIDE
HANOI
Find Your Way
Plan Your Days
Hoan Kiem Lake
The Old Quarter
The French Quarter
Ba Dinh & Western Hanoi
West Lake & Truc Bach Lake
Around Hanoi
NORTH VIETNAM
Find Your Way
Plan Your Days
Cat Ba Island & Lan Ha Bay
Sapa
Bac Ha
Mai Chau
Ha Giang
Ba Be National Park
Mu Cang Chai
Dien Bien Phu
CENTRAL VIETNAM
Find Your Way
Plan Your Days
Ninh Binh
Phong Nha
Hue
Lang Co
Danang
Hoi An
SOUTHEAST COAST
Find Your Way
Plan Your Time
Quang Nhai & Son My
Quy Nhon
Nha Trang
Mui Ne
Vung Tau
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
Find Your way
Plan Your Days
Cat Tien National Park
Dalat
Buon Ma Thuot
Kon Tum
HO CHI MINH CITY
Find Your Way
Plan Your Days
Dong Khoi Area
Reunification Palace & Around
Cholon
Da Kao & Around
District 2
Around Ho Chi Minh City
MEKONG DELTA
Find Your Way
Plan Your Time
Ben Tre
Vinh Long
Cao Lanh
Can Tho
Con Dao Islands
Chau Doc
Ha Tien
Phu Quoc Island
SIEM REAP & ANGKOR WAT
Find Your Way
Plan Your Time
Siem Reap
Angkor Wat
Angkor Thom
Prominent Angkor Temples
TOOLKIT
Arriving
Getting Around
Money
Accommodation
Family Travel
Health & Safe Travel
Food, Drink & Nightlife
Responsible Travel
LGBTIQ+ Travellers
Accessible Travel
Language
Nuts & Bolts
STORYBOOK
A History of Vietnam in 15 Places
Meet the Vietnamese
Vietnamese 101: A Language of Melodic Beauty
The Ancient Art of Reviving Craft
Coffee Culture: Robust and Strong
The Illegal Trade in Wildlife
From Bia Hoi to Craft Beer
Motorbikes: A Doomed Affair?
This Book
VIETNAM
THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE
Halong Bay | stefano zaccaria/shutterstock ©
I first visited Vietnam in 1991, when seeing a motorbike in Saigon or Hanoi
was quite a rare sight and most people were pedalling their way around by
cycle or getting around on foot. They were almost silent cities after dark.
Today the energy and pace of these metropolises is astonishing, with a tide
of two wheelers filling the streets and quiet corners can be challenging to
find. So when out exploring I have a hit list of cafes, often on leafy side
streets, where I can recharge with the uniquely Vietnamese caffeine and
sugar kick that is ca phe sua da (drip coffee with condensed milk). Then I
can decompress and reflect for a while before revving up for the next urban
adventure: perhaps searching for the perfect banh mi (Vietnamese-style
stuffed baguette).
Iain Stewart
@iaintravel
My favourite experience
is gazing over fishers’ coracles and oceanic rollers towards the
Cham Islands from the shoreline on gorgeous An Bang beach,
with a Huda beer for company.
WHO GOES WHERE
Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define
Vietnam
nguyen quang ngoc tonkin/shutterstock ©
I’ve lived in Hanoi for years, but for me the Old Quarter never gets
old. It’s the medley of contrasts that keeps things infinitely
interesting. New money collides with traditional values, storied
heritage architecture surrounds, and tourists are everywhere. And
yet the neighbourhood never sold its soul to tourism. I love gazing
at St Joseph’s Cathedral (pictured), perched on the porous border
between Hoan Kiem and the Old Quarter, while swigging a glass of
iced lemon tea.
Joshua Zukas
@joshuazukas
Born in Britain but based in Hanoi, Joshua writes about travel,
culture and architecture.
dudarev mikhail/shutterstock ©
What screams Vietnam better than being in the midst of its jungle?
Phong Nha-Ke Bang (pictured) is a mysterious world that
captivates anyone who ventures into its verdant realm. Covered in
thick forest, carved by crystal blue rivers and riddled with deep
caverns, the national park is a splendour to behold, with intriguing
layers of history, culture and infinite potential.
Diana Truong
@andsoigo
Diana is a Vietnamese-American who has lived in Vietnam since

2015. She is a copywriter and the owner of a dog hotel.
      huy thoai/shutterstock ©
      Most Vietnamese don’t live in big cities; they live close to the land
      and water. That’s why I love Can Tho. It’s the largest city in the
      Mekong Delta but drive 30 minutes from the city centre and you’ll
      find people trading goods at the floating market (pictured), taking
      their kids to school by canoe, harvesting cacao (yes, Vietnam
      produces chocolate!), and working the emerald rice fields. This to
      me is the real Vietnam.
      James Pham
      @fly.icarus.fly
      James is a writer, editor and photographer based in Ho Chi Minh
      City.
      fentonphoto/shutterstock ©
      The Temples of Angkor in Cambodia need no introduction, but
      what surprises many visitors is just how many spectacular temples
      there are. As well as Angor Wat (pictured), there are dozens of Alister
      temples that would be top billing anywhere. Siem Reap is the
      perfect place to unwind with a superb selection of restaurants,
      cafes, bars, shops and galleries – it’s very much a destination in
      itself.
      Nick Ray
      @lpnickray
      Nick Ray has written numerous editions of the Cambodia guidebook
      for Lonely Planet and works as a location scout and producer for TV
      and film.
      zorrotran/shutterstock ©
      Framed and bisected by meandering waterways, the Mekong
      Delta is largely flat, but I love getting higher atop Nui Sam (Sam
      Mountain; pictured) near Chau Doc. Hillside pathways negotiate
      winding routes to colourful temples, some coursing right through
      Nui Sam’s rocky cliffs. From the mountain’s higher elevations there
      are sublime cross-border views across the rice fields to Cambodia,
      or down onto the languid flow and gentle curves of the Bassac and
      Mekong Rivers.
      Brett Atkinson
      @travelwriternz
      Brett is a travel, food and beer writer, exploring Vietnam for three
      decades.
      anna ewa bieniek/shutterstock ©
      Vietnam is such a special place – one that takes years to scratch
      the surface enough to appreciate its culture, language and
      hospitality. The best way to start to get to know it is with a glass of
      cà phê sữa đá (pictured) in a cozy cafe with a street view.
      Katie Lockhart
      @findyourhappyplate
      Katie is a travel and food journalist and copywriter wandering the
      globe.

DREAM BEACHES
Vietnam’s extraordinary coastline is defined by beautiful beaches
along most of its 3400km length. You’re completely spoiled for
choice with surf-washed shores, idyllic coves, hidden bays and a
roster of impressive city beaches in Nha Trang and Quy Nhon.
Islands including Con Dao are blessed with lovely sands too.
Seasons
During the winter (late October to February) seas are usually too
rough for enjoyable swimming in Northern Vietnam and
temperatures are cool. Head south during these months.
dennis gross/shutterstock ©
Desert Islands
If you’re really seeking serenity, gorgeous Lan Ha Bay has a host of
uninhabited islands where you can play Robinson Crusoe for a day
or two.
Muaz jaffar/shutterstock ©
The Environment
Unfortunately, trash is a problem on many beaches and taints the
tropical vision. In cities, clean-up patrols tidy things up and collect
flotsam and jetsam.
Phu Quoc Island | tran qui thinh/shutterstock ©
BEST BEACH EXPERIENCES
Watching the sun rise at glorious An Bang Beach 1, east of Hoi
An, with the lights of Danang to the north and Cham Islands on
the horizon.
Enjoying the evening scene at the lovely cove of Bai Xep 2,
where local women cook up fresh seafood on the sand.
Marvelling at the fascinating coastline around Bai Da Nhay 3
where craggy rock formations emerge from the shore and sea.
Chilling by the shore on the stunning beach of Bai Dam Trau 4
on Con Son Island, the largest of the Con Dao archipelago’s 15
islands.
Scootering around the remote bays of northern Phu Quoc
Island 5, seeking powder-white sands and seashells.
NOODLE NATION
There’s a seemingly endless array of noodle dishes in Vietnam,
from steaming, broth-rich northern classics like pho to spicy
Southern creations. Noodles come in many forms; some of the
most common are rice noodles (bun), glass noodles (mien) and
thick rice flour and tapioca (or wheat) noodles called banh canh.
Yellow egg noodles (mi) also feature, while Haiphong is famous
for its red banh da noodles served with crab.
North
Here the influence from China is obvious, with soy sauce dominant
and hotpots in evidence everywhere. Around Ninh Binh they favour
one made with goat meat.
joel whalton/shutterstock ©
Centre
balatran/shutterstock ©
Creations like cau lao (including sliced pork, rice noodles and
broth) seem like fusion food, showing myriad global influences that
reflect the region’s trading history.
South
Expect to encounter the unusual, with seafood stews made with
rice vermicelli and vegetables famous in the Phan Thiet region and
stingray hotpots popular in Vung Tau.
Street food, Hanoi | dttmstock/shutterstock ©
BEST NOODLE EXPERIENCES
Slurping pho in Hanoi 1, its spiritual home, is a must but don’t
pass on bun cha, the capital’s other famous noodle dish.
Savouring cao lau in Hoi An’s Old Town 2 and contemplating
this cultural charmer’s Japanese and Chinese culinary heritage.
Feasting on bun nuoc leo 3 (a Cambodian-influenced noodle
soup made with fermented fish, chicken, coconut juice, banana
flowers and garlic chives) in Tra Vinh.
Ordering my quang in Danang 4, the city’s most famous
noodle dish; it’s usually served with pork, shrimp, egg, fresh
herbs and peanuts.
Enjoying a hearty bowl of bun bo hue 5 (rice vermicelli in a
meaty broth with beef, lemongrass, shrimp paste and sugar) in
Hue.
AUTHENTIC MARKETS
Vietnamese markets are a riot of colour and commerce. In the
northern highlands they are tribal gatherings where many minority
groups may congregate and enjoy a tipple of rice wine while they
trade. Down south in the Mekong Delta, you’ll find floating
markets where vendors sell fruit and vegetables from boats. In
cities and towns throughout the land there are purpose-built central
markets and informal street markets.
Photography
For photographers, markets are ideal for taking shots of
Vietnamese villagers and their perfectly arranged pyramids of
tropical fruit or glistening seafood.
gracethang2/shutterstock ©
Early Birds
Most markets start very early in the day (and some operate in the
dead of night), so it’s best to time your visits accordingly.
larcsky789/shutterstock ©
Craft Hunting
The best spots for craft- and souvenir-seekers tend to be markets
where tourists congregate, such as those in Ho Chi Minh City, Hoi
An and Hanoi.
Cai Rang floating market | lochuynh/shutterstock ©
BEST LOCAL MARKETS
Delving deep into Dong Xuan Market 1 in Hanoi for everything
from Vietnamese arts and crafts to fake designer threads.
Experiencing one of the most colourful markets in Southeast
Asia at Bac Ha 2, where the Flower Hmong people are the stars
of the show.
Rising at dawn, hiring a boat and surveying the delta water world
at Cai Be 3, where everything from durian to catfish is traded.
Exploring Binh Tay Market 4, which combines Vietnamese and
Chinese influences with its central memorial garden, fashion and
food stalls.
Marvelling at the the Mekong Delta’s foremost floating market at
Cai Rang 5 with its hundreds of boat vendors.
GET OFF-GRID
Vietnam has a population of over 100 million, and most people
reside in a narrow strip of land that follows the coastline between
HCMC and Hanoi. If you yearn for the solitude of remote valleys
and empty beaches, you’ll have to make a little effort to escape the
crowds.
The landscape between Mu Cang Chai and Hà Giang | thongnguyengallery/shutterstock ©
Tours
Getting off the beaten track is not straightforward unless you have
your own wheels. Hooking up with a tour operator which operates
in remote regions, is a good idea.
Regions
It’s possible to get off-grid within an hour or so from most towns
but easiest in the thinly populated far north, with its epic mountain
ranges.
BEST OFF-GRID EXPERIENCES
Sail offshore to the rocky outcrop of Hon Son Island 1 near
Rach Gia; it only opened to travellers in the last few years.
Revving up a motorbike and scythe through soaring rice terraces
in Mu Cang Chai 2 and its dramatically seasonal views.
Enjoying the peaceful beach of My Hoa 3, a big hit with
kitesurfers.
Settling into a rustic lodge on the shores of Lak Lake 4 near
Buon Ma Thuot.
Trekking from one remote village to another and soaking up the
traditions of Pu Luong 5 hill tribes.
COFFEE & BEER
Coffee culture runs deep in Vietnam. Virtually every
neighbourhood in every town will have a little cafe where locals go
to destress from the office, the family or simply the traffic.
Drinking beer is another national obsession, and beer is available
virtually everywhere, usually in cans but also on draught, in craft
form and as bia hoi.
Cafes
Vietnamese cafes serve traditional treacle-thick coffee in many
guises and are wonderful environments to retreat from the street.
Cities boast speciality coffee shops for espresso-heads.
Bars
Most Vietnamese drink beer in restaurants with food, but bia hoi
(fresh beer) joints, raucous bars with DJs and craft beer places are
popular too.
bushpro/shutterstock ©
Local Brews
If craft beer isn’t an option, Saigon and Huda brands are decentenough
lagers, and Larue, brewed on the central coast, is quite
good.
waclawmostowski/shutterstock ©
BEST CAFE & BAR EXPERIENCES
Mixing with the capital’s chattering classes and enjoying some of
Hanoi’s best cocktails in the atmospheric wine bar Tadioto 1.
Drinking in the legendary Saigon Saigon Rooftop Bar 2, once
the haunt of writers, spies and politicos and now famous for its
happy hour and views..
Sipping a quality single-estate arabica in the Dalat-area coffee
co-op K’Ho Coffee 3 which supports K’Ho people.
Enjoying the classy ambience at Te Bar 4, a stylish speakeasy
located in the heart of Danang.
Sitting in the shoreside garden overlooking the ocean rollers and
enjoying a coffee at Sound of Silence 5, a lovely An Bang
beach cafe.
ROAD TRIPS
Vietnam has a roster of inspirational road trips. You’ll find the far
north has the most dramatic vistas, where the alpine scenery
between Sapa and Dien Bien Phu and legendary high plateau of
Dong Van stand out. Further south there’s the great ocean road
between Quy Nhon and Nha Trang.
Dong Van Karst plateau | kid315/shutterstock ©
Easy Riding
If you don’t ride a motorbike consider an Easy Rider tour, which
allows you to travel pillion. Dalat is a good starting point for trips.
Costs
Hiring a car and driver is quite pricey (from US$100 per day, more
for a 4WD) so team up with other travellers to share costs.
BEST ROAD TRIP EXPERIENCES
Negotiating the mountainous route from Dong Van to Meo Vac,
and the Ma Pi Leng Pass 1.
Travel between Hue and Danang via the endless switchbacks of
the Hai Van Pass 2.
Exploring the great coastal road 3 between Tuy Hoa and Nha
Trang, passing the Hom Gom sandbar.
Descending from Dalat to Nha Trang passing pine-forests to
Bidoup Nui Ba National Park 4.
Taking the route through Phong Nha-ke Bang National Park 5
for a jungle experience.
HISTORIC QUARTERS
Tours
Walking tours are an excellent way to help understand the history
and culture of Vietnam’s historic districts and are available in all the
main centres.
noina/shutterstock ©
Exploring on Foot
Exploring Hanoi’s manic Old Quarter is challenging with buzzing
motorbikes to compete with; the French Quarter is more
manageable. Hoi An’s Old Town is pedestrianised.
efired/shutterstock ©
Private Guides
Hiring a one-on-one private guide can be an unforgettable
experience, bringing the culture and architecture of Vietnam to life
in a truly personal way.
Skylines in most Vietnamese cities are studded with highrises
today, and building skyscrapers is something of a national
obsession. But evocative, ancient districts still remain, most
impressively in Hue, Hoi An’s Old Town, Hanoi’s Old Quarter and
parts of District 1 in HCMC. In the Mekong Delta, towns like Ha
Tien have a certain languid charm and architectural interest.
BEST HISTORIC QUARTER EXPERIENCES
Wandering the atmospheric lanes of Hoi An Old Town 1,
replete with ancient merchants’ houses, temples and pagodas.
Investigating the unique warren-like Old Quarter in Hanoi 2,
where every lane is associated with an ancient trade.
Crossing the Perfume River and exploring Hue Citadel 3, with
its palaces, gardens and temples.
Appreciating the elegant architecture in Hanoi’s French Quarter
4, with its mansions, grand hotels and museums.
Delving deep inside District 1, HCMC 5, where there are
streets lined with crumbling old townhouses close to the Saigon
River.
NATIONAL PARKS &
RESERVES
Vietnam has over 30 national parks and over a hundred protected
natural reserves. While wildlife can be elusive, there are
stupendous landscapes to enjoy. You’ll often find minority
homestays on the fringes of nature reserves, too. Parks are spread
around the mainland, and the Con Dao Islands offer a tempting
excursion out in the South China Sea (East Sea).
Mealtimes
Many national park restaurants only offer meals at set times and
it’s necessary to book ahead so the cooks can buy and prepare
your grub.
ngoc tran/shutterstock ©
Protection
Though 9% of Vietnamese territory is officially protected, park
rangers are few in number and the state struggles with
conservation: you’ll rarely see large animals.
jamesehunt/shutterstock ©
Hunting
Hunters frequent national parks and reserves, searching for
animals for the bushmeat trade. If you see game on menus, avoid it
as most is illegally sourced.
Cat Tien National Park | quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock ©
BEST NATIONAL PARK EXPERIENCES
Seeking gibbons and viewing crocodiles in southern Vietnam’s
most rewarding national park, the rainforests and lagoons of Cat
Tien 1.
Heading for the evergreen hills of Ba Be 2, with its beautiful
lakes, rainforest, waterfalls, towering limestone peaks, birdlife
and minority villages.
Gasping in awe at the sheer majesty and gargantuan scale of the
remarkable cave systems in Phong Nha-Ke Bang 3.
Walking with a guide in search of wild elephants in Yok Don 4,
one of Vietnam’s best wildlife experiences, and visiting minority
villages.
Sailing or kayaking around Bai Tu Long 5, revelling in the
beauty of its karst islands, tropical evergreen forest and lonely
sandy beaches.

STREET FOOD
Don’t hesitate. Just look for a busy hawker, squat on a plastic stool
and chow down with the regulars. There are hundreds of different
regional street food delicacies to feast on, from Hanoi’s bun cha
(barbecued pork with rice vermicelli) to the humble but everdelicious
banh mi (baguette stuffed with pâté, sliced meat, pickled
veg and a myriad other possibilities) which has to be a strong
contender for the world’s best sandwich.
One Love
In Vietnam most street kitchens specialise in just one dish, or
perhaps a couple, which usually costs a dollar or so (more in the
capital and HCMC).
bebe see/shutterstock ©
Timing
Many hawkers only open for set mealtimes, so don’t expect that
woman dispensing sticky rice cakes in the morning to be still
around after nightfall.
phuong d. nguyen/shutterstock ©
Food Hunt
Finding street food is not difficult, but prime hunting grounds tend
to be near marketplaces, schools, offices, factories and hospitals.
Basically, anywhere there’s hungry folk.
Sidewalk barbeque, Hoi An | dh saragih/shutterstock ©
BEST STREET FOOD EXPERIENCES
Enjoying banh cong, a savoury mung bean ‘muffin’ stuffed with
whole shrimp on Đ De Tham in Can Tho 1.
Slurping down a steaming bowl of pho bo (beef noodle soup) at
Pho Thin in the backstreets of Hanoi 2.
Joining dozens of diners seeking wallet-friendly, delicious rice
and noodle dishes at Food Alley at 76 Hai Ba Trung in HCMC
3.
Browsing the food stalls in Vung Tau’s 4fantastic seafood
market, and feasting on local crab and clam dishes.
Gnoshing on an array of delicious culinary specialities in Hoi An
Old Town 5.
TEMPLES, PAGODAS & MORE
Loaded with historic interest, Vietnam has superb Cham temples,
grandiose tombs, pagodas, and fine French colonial churches. The
greatest concentration is along Hue’s Perfume River, which is lined
with monuments and an astonishing collection of emperors’ tombs.
Historically, the nation has absorbed religious influences from
China, India and the Khmer kingdoms and fused them with
indigenous traditions.
Buddhist Sites
Pagodas (chua) incorporate Chinese ornamentation and motifs,
with buildings grouped around garden courtyards and adorned with
statues and stela.
gimas/shutterstock ©
Churches
Vietnam has around 10 million Christians – Catholics and
Protestants. Many of the most impressive churches were built
during the French colonial era.
wandering meo/shutterstock ©
Champa
The Cham people were great temple builders; principal features
include kalan (towers; the home of the deity), gopura (gateways)
and stone statues.
Temple of Literature | vietnam stock images/shutterstock ©
BEST TEMPLE EXPERIENCES
Absorbing the grandeur and splendour of Angkor Wat 1, Asia’s
most magnificent temple complex.
Marvelling at a millennia of history at Hanoi’s sublime Temple of
Literature 2, a former university.
Driving through rural roads then taking in the splendid Cham
ruins of My Son 3.
Touring the temples and monuments inside Hue’s Citadel 4,
located on the banks of the Perfume River.
Exploring Nui Sam (Sam Mountain) near Chau Doc and its many
temples and shrines, including Lady Xu Temple 5.
WAR MEMORIES
In the centre of Vietnam, the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) has the
greatest concentration of battle sites from the American War (and
some excellent tour operators to get you around them). There are
numerous war sites around Vung Tau, which was a big Anzac base.
In the far north, Dien Bien Phu should not be missed: there’s a
good modern museum here to explain the significance of the battle
that precipitated the French expulsion from Indochina.
Museums
It may be nearly 50 years since the American War ended but its
impact is not forgotten. Most provincial museums have a room
dedicated to the war and a tank or two on display.
duc huy nguyen/shutterstock ©
Going Underground
The Cu Chi Tunnels are a very popular day trip from Ho Chi Minh
City. Check out the Vinh Moc Tunnels in central Vietnam as well.
jindowin/shutterstock ©
Battle Heroes
Vietnam battle heroes from ancient history are still very much
respected, and you’ll encounter statues of Le Loi, the Hai Ba Trung
and generals across the nation.
tanes ngamsom/shutterstock ©
BEST WARTIME EXPERIENCES
Understanding the suffering of a nation, the historical
background and the courage needed to achieve reunification at
HCMC’s War Remnants Museum 1.
Marvelling at the ingenuity and determination necessary to
construct (and live in) the extraordinary network of tunnels at Cu
Chi 2.
Exploring the key battle sites, war monuments, museums and
cemeteries of the dividing zone between north and south
Vietnam on a DMZ Tour 3.
Retracing the fall of Indochine in the northern city of Dien Bien
Phu 4, where the French were humiliated in 1956.
Joining an expertly-led tour to discover the many battle sites
around the southern city of Vung Tau 5.
CLAMS, CRAB & SHRIMP
Seafood is extraordinary in Vietnam. The Vietnamese love it, and
will shell out serious money for a feast. Of course, there’s nowhere
better to indulge than by the coast, where rows of simple-looking
restaurants produce intricately flavoured seafood creations and
steam clams and grill fish to perfection.
Alive & Kicking
Most seafood, including crabs, lobsters, clams, sea snails and
many other species, are kept alive in restaurants’ bubbling tanks or
tubs so it’s super fresh.
paulwright999/shutterstock ©
Budget Accordingly
Eating seafood is never inexpensive in Vietnam and many
restaurants’ pricing can be tricky to fathom. It pays to ask the cost
(usually per kilo) when ordering.
huy thoai/shutterstock ©
Asian Influences
The Vietnamese passion for seafood goes way beyond its borders.
Sushi is wildly popular and Thai and Chinese seafood dishes are
common on local menus.
Night Market in Phu Quoc | hanna summer/shutterstock ©
BEST SEAFOOD EXPERIENCES
Delving into the super-fresh seafood delights at the bustling
night market in Ha Tien 1 for real value and flavour.
Tasting delicious hau mo hanh (grilled oysters with green onion
oil) in Lang Co 2.
Feasting on dishes like ngheo hap sa (clams steamed with
lemongrass and chilli) in HCMC’s District 4 3.
Cruising along the streetfood stalls at Nha Trang 4, where
there’s a whole block of speciality seafood places and prices are
fair.
Dining right on the sandy beach at Bai Xep 5; here local
villagers set up fish and seafood barbecues in the evening.
GUIDED TOURS
Culturally, Vietnam can be tricky to understand. Joining a wellstructured
tour will really help you get to grips with the country
and its customs. The possibilities are incredible, with walking
tours, street food tours, motorbike and bicycle excursions, and
guided hiking trips just some of the options. The one essential tour
that every visitor wants to experience is a Halong Bay island
cruise, but be sure to choose your operator very carefully.
Finding Value
The quality of cheapo tours peddled in HCMC and Hanoi is often
terrible, with poor service, rushed itineraries and dodgy transport.
Stick to reputable operators.
asia images/shutterstock ©
Quirky Tours
Niche possibilities include guided craft beer tours in HCMC and
Hanoi and coracle river trips around Hoi An, which include some
fishing.
larcsky789/shutterstock ©
Minority Villages
If you’re visiting tribal villages in the north or southwest highlands,
having a knowledgeable guide is important to avoid cultural faux
pas.
Lan Ha Bay | sen photos/shutterstock ©
BEST TOUR EXPERIENCES
Cruising the incredible karst islands of Lan Ha Bay 1, far less
touristy and arguably more rewarding than neighbouring Halong
Bay.
Getting the full cultural and historical background of the city
explained on an Old Compass Travel 2 tour in HCMC.
Weaving around the bucolic backroads of Hoi An 3 on a scooter
tour, taking in craft industries and rice fields.
Exploring the world’s greatest cave systems inside Phong Nha-
Ke Bang National Park 4 with Oxalis Adventure Tours or
Jungle Boss.
Getting off the beaten track around Dalat 5 to see waterfalls,
rivers and forested highlands.
URBAN BUZZ
Vietnam’s two metropolises, Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, have a
visceral energy that will delight urbanites. Few places on earth are
as dynamic and exciting, yet you don’t have to dig too deep to
uncover tradition too, for a step or two off the grand boulevards are
hem (alleys), home to street kitchens and craft industries. In
contrast, Danang is a modern, less-frenetic coastal city boasting a
sparkling shoreline and imposing riverside.
Bars
The bar scene in Vietnam’s big cities is superb, with dive bars on
backstreets, lounge bars, skybars and craft beer hangouts.
hit1912/shutterstock ©
Clubbing
HCMC is undoubtedly Vietnam’s most progressive city with DJs
spinning house and techno beats to lively dance floors. Hanoi ranks
second, and other cities tend to be tame.

marie shark/shutterstock ©
Fashion
You’ll find Vietnamese boutiques showcasing local designers in
District 1, HCMC, and spread around inner Hanoi. Nha Trang and
Danang also have emerging fashion scenes.
The Cafe Apartments building, Ho Chi Minh City | elena ermakova/shutterstock ©
BEST URBAN EXPERIENCES
Walking the labyrinth of lanes that is Hanoi’s Old Quarter 1
where each street has a unique craft tradition and sense of
history.
Expecting the unexpected, with hip bars and cool boutiques
hidden in crumbling 1950s apartment blocks in District 1 2,
HCMC.
Explore central Danang 3, home to skybars which offer
unmatched views of the Han River and its spectacular bridges.
Finding vinyl-only bars, urban art galleries, cool cafes and lots of
resident creatives in Thao Dien 4, HCMC.
Wandering the historic riverside and its sculpted gardens, narrow
alleys and wide boulevards of buzzing Can Tho 5.
MEET THE MINORITIES
Vietnam is home to 53 ethnic minority groups (over 15 million
people). Most live in northern Vietnam, carving an existence out of
the lush mountain landscapes along the Chinese and Lao borders.
They tend to form the poorest sections of Vietnamese society,
despite improvements in rural schooling and regional healthcare.
Key Regions
In the southwest highlands traditional Bahnar and Jarai villages are
rewarding to visit, while in the far north head for settlements
around Sapa and Bac Ha.
quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock ©
Customs
Many minorities practise a mixture of animism, ancestral worship
and conventional religion. The hill tribes’ long history of
independence keep many away from the lowlands.
cravena/shutterstock ©
Clothing
In the far north, many hill tribe women wear incredible hand-woven
outfits, particularly the Hmong people. In the southwest highlands,
attachment to traditional dress is rarer.
Lo Lo Chai village, Ha Giang | vietnam stock images/shutterstock ©
BEST ETHNIC MINORITY EXPERIENCES
Plotting a two-wheel trip around the extraordinary Ha Giang
loop 1, where each night is spent in a different ethnic minority
village.
Travelling with an expert minority guide to hike the trails and
learn about highland life in the hills around Sapa 2.
Delve into the countryside encircling Kon Tum 3, which is
punctuated by the towering nha rong (communal houses) of the
Bahnar.
Tuck into a multifarious homestay meal in a traditional house in
Mai Chau 4; the spread will include several ethnic Thai dishes.
Hitting the markets in and around Bac Ha 5 on a weekend,
which include Can Cau, held on a Saturday.
REGIONS & CITIES
Find the places that tick all your boxes.
ITINERARIES
Southern Beaches
Allow: 8 Days Distance: 431km
For most folk this trip is all about enjoying beach time on Vietnam’s
most impressive coastline and perhaps some watersports. But wait,
it’s also the heartland of the ancient Cham culture and centuries-old
monuments still inspire awe at Po Nagar (Nha Trang) and Thap Doi
(Quy Nhon).

Ninh Van Bay, Nha Trang | simon dannhauer/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
1 QUY NHON 1 DAY
Start in Quy Nhon (which has an airport and mainline train station)
and enjoy a day taking in the easy-going ambience of this seaside
city. Tour its lovely Cham temples and visit the city museum, then
explore the promenade before feasting on wonderful seafood.
30 mins from Quy-Nhon-Bai Xep
Detour: Consider a visit to the Quy Hoa Beach & Leper Hospital
en route.
hien phung thu/shutterstock ©
2 BAI XEP 2 DAYS
Imagine a perfect cove, with a half-moon beach and a smattering of
low-key guesthouses fronting the shoreline and that’s Bai Xep.
Sunrises are usually inspirational, days long and lazy, and in the
evenings local women set up seafood barbecues on the sand. It’s
the perfect place to decompress and recharge.
4 hr drive from Bai Xep-Nha Trang
rubiker94/shutterstock ©
3 NHA TRANG 2 DAYS
Facing a sparkling bay dotted with islands, Nha Trang is one of
Vietnam’s most popular beach resorts. But it’s also a prosperous
city, with excellent street food, independent boutiques and cool
coffee shops, Cham monuments, Buddhist temples and museums.
5-hr train journey from Nha Trang to Mui Ne
zhukov oleg/shutterstock ©
4 MUI NE 3 DAYS
Mui Ne is a tropical idyll with towering sand dunes and a laid-back
vibe – or for those with the stamina, get stuck into some kitesurfing
or a sailing course. There are kilometres of palm-fringed coastline
to enjoy, with many hotels situated right on Mui Ne’s golden sands,
and a pretty lively after-dark bar scene too.
Detour: The traditional, intriguing port of Phan Thiet is close by.
det-anan/shutterstock ©
ITINERARIES
Northwest Mountains
Allow: 10 days Distance: 1294km
This outstanding road trip takes in some of Vietnam’s most
spectacular mountainous terrain and a mosaic of ethnic minorities.
It’s best covered with your own transport (either two wheels or four)
from Hanoi. Views are simply breathtaking and road conditions
generally good. As the terrain is mountainous, journey times can be
quite slow, so set out early on travel days. Mai Chau is around a 3½-
hour ride from central Hanoi.
1 MAI CHAU 1 DAY
Leaving Hanoi, the first settlement of interest is Mai Chau, home to
the White Thai people. It’s the ideal introduction to ethnic minority
life, where the homestays have a rustic charm, surrounded by rice
fields. Locals rent bicycles so you can explore, and there are hiking
trails in the nearby hills and guides to assist you.
7 ½ -hr drive from Dien Bien Phu.
phuong d. nguyen/shutterstock ©
2 DIEN BIEN PHU 2 DAYS
Dien Bien Phu is a name that resonates with history. It was here
that the French colonial story ended in defeat. Touring the
impressive military sights and museums is an educating
experience. The city is not particularly attractive, but it’s a regional
capital with a decent choice of accommodation and restaurants.
6½ -hr drive DBP-Sapa
nguyen phuc thanh vietnam/shutterstock ©
3 SAPǍ 2 DAYS
Sapa is the premier destination in the northwest, thanks to the
infinite views and the amazing diversity of people who live here.
You’ll eat well, for there’s an outstanding choice of both Northern
Vietnamese and Western restaurants. Factor in some craft
shopping and consider a day hike or bike trip while you’re there.
2 ½-hr drive Sapa to Bac Ha.
sirisak baokaew/shutterstock ©
4 BAC HA 3 DAYS
The understated highland town of Bac Ha makes a great base for
some memorable forays to highland markets and minority villages
(the most colourful are those of the Flower Hmong people). Hook
up with a local guide to get to really understand the region’s unique
cultural appeal, and culinary dishes.
7-hr drive Bac Ha to Ba Be.
gil.k/shutterstock ©
5 BA BE 2 DAYS
With jagged limestone mountains soaring over highland lakes, Ba
Be National Park offers some of Vietnam’s most dramatic
scenery. Enjoy revelling in the epic views, exploring the lakeshore
by boat or kayak, and enjoying the hospitality of the local Tay
people in one of their rustic homestays. Treks and boating trips are
best organised via the national park office or your homestay.
quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock ©
ITINERARIES
Central Coastline
Allow: 8 days Distance: 354km
This route covers two of the nation’s most culturally rich towns (Hue
and Hoi An) as well as its most progressive city (Danang). Alongside
historic monuments and amazing caves, there’s a smorgasbord of
regional food specialities to try, from imperial cuisine to street food
snacks. The city of Dong Hoi is a gateway to the north of the region.
1 PHONG NHA KE BANG NATIONAL PARK 2 DAYS
Phong Nha Ke Bang is Vietnam’s most rewarding national park to
visit. It offers incredible scenery, including karst mountains, jungle
rivers and gigantic caves that will impress even the most jaded of
travellers. There’s an excellent choice of tour operators and hotels.
2-hr drive Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park to DMZ.
vietnam stock images/shutterstock ©
2 DMZ 1 DAY
The DMZ (Demilitarised Zone) encompasses an array of war
monuments and battle sites around the Ben Hai River. It functioned
as a border between North and South Vietnam between 1954 and

1975. Sites of interest are widely dispersed so it’s definitely best to
      explore the region on a tour (or with a good guide) as the historical
      background is fascinating.
      90-min drive DMZ to Hue.
      james jiao/shutterstock ©
      3 HUE 2 DAYS
      The old imperial capital of Hue is a graceful city on the beautiful
      Perfume River. Here the main point of interest is the walled Citadel
      itself and its fabled monuments, many in ruins, others
      reconstructed. There are numerous pagodas and royal tombs to
      investigate (and, in season, wonderful nearby beaches as well).
      80-min drive Hue to Danang.
      chris howey/shutterstock
      4 DANANG 1 DAY
      Boasting a spectacular city beach, impressive riverfront and little in
      the way of the traffic mayhem that plagues HCMC and Hanoi,
      Danang makes a relaxed base. Aside from some dramatic bridges
      and a good museum, sights are lacking, so consider Danang a good
      spot to rest for a day and explore the city’s food scene, which
      improves every year.
      40-min drive Danang to Hoi An.
      tang trung kien/shutterstock ©
      5 HOI AŇ 3 DAYS
      Most travellers’ favourite Vietnamese town, Hoi An is a cultural
      charmer and culinary hot spot for sure (consider enrolling on a
      cooking course). Enjoy Hoi An’s unique ambience, touring its
      temples, ancient houses and Old Town and visit the nearby beach
      of An Bang.
      Detour: An essential day trip, the wonderful ruins of My Son are
      the best Cham monuments in the country.
      hien phung thu/shutterstock ©
      WHEN TO GO
      Vietnam is deeply rewarding at any time of year but, as it has two
      rainy seasons, you should plan accordingly.
      There’s no bad time to visit Vietnam, though the climate is very variable
      and differs considerably according to the region. April to June and
      September to November are the best times to tour the whole nation. South
      of Nha Trang expect tropical, steamy conditions, with a hot dry season
      between November and March. North of here there’s a different weather
      pattern, with the rainy season typically commencing in October, as cool
      northerly winds drift down the coastline, and relenting by March. Don’t
      expect to laze on the beaches around Hoi An and Hue during these months;
      seas can be rough. Hanoi and the north can get chilly then also. You’re
      pretty much guaranteed warm to hot weather across the entire nation
      between April and early October.
      Harvesting waterlilies, Ninh Binh | vietnam stock images ©
      Timing Your Trip
      July and August are peak season for both international and domestic
      travellers, so beach resort hotels are very busy and rates high. Travel during
      Tet is also best avoided, if possible, as transport can be fully booked.
      I LIVE HERE
      EATING SEASONAL
      Ben Mitchell, owner of Phong Nha Farmstay and Victory Villas.
      ‘When I first moved here, protein was scarce and villagers could rarely afford meat. In
      March and April birds were hunted, and later clams were harvested from bomb
      craters and lakes. From August, snails and prawns were collected in canals, and with
      the September rains came an abundance of rats (commonly eaten in rural areas),
      frogs, mud crabs and eels. Throughout autumn and winter fish were caught, salted
      and stored in earthenware jars for later consumption.’
      CLIMATE CHANGE
      Climate change is a real concern in Vietnam, affecting central coastal areas prone to
      typhoons. In the Mekong Delta area, rising sea levels have produced increased
      salinity, with high tides impacting agricultural production as far as 65km inland.
      UP NORTH
      If you’re touring the far north between December and February
      expect distinctly cool conditions at high altitudes (in Sapa daytime
      highs average 12°C and lows average 7°C). However there’s usually
      less rain at this time of year.
      Tet & the Main Festivals
      Tet (Vietnamese Lunar New Year) is truly the mother of all festivals,
      as the entire nation expresses their respects for ancestors and
      welcomes the new year with family members. Late January to
      early February
      The Hue Festival is Vietnam’s biggest cultural event with an
      astonishing program of art, theatre, music, circus and dance inside
      the Citadel. Next held in 2024 and 2026. Biannual, late
      April/early May
      Danang International Fireworks Festival sees the city’s
      riverbank explode with sound, light and colour over five weekends.
      Late June to early July
      Trung Nguyen (Wandering Souls Day) honours the spirits of
      ancestors who are believed to return to earth on this day. Families
      head to cemeteries with food offerings and burn paper money.
      Late August/early September
      Local Celebrations
      The Quang Trung celebrations in Hanoi are marked with wrestling
      competitions, lion dances and human chess at the Dong Da
      Mound, site of an uprising against the Chinese in 1788.
      February
      In the Mekong region’s Chau Doc the impressive annual festival at
      the Ba Chua Xu temple features elaborate ceremonies and
      classical theatre. May
      Up in the far north of the country, Bac Ha White Plateau Festival
      includes a wild, highly competitive horse race through the town’s
      streets, folk music and traditional dances from minority
      communities. June
      Celebrating the harvest moon, the Children’s Festival (or mid-
      Autumn Festival) in Hoi An features elaborate lion, unicorn and
      dragon dance processions. Moon cakes are munched and children
      are gifted presents. Late August/early September
      I LIVE HERE
      CITY OF RAIN
      Dang Duong, co-owner of Rusty Compass Cafe, HCMC.
      ‘It rains most of the year in Saigon, almost every day in the wet season. The city’s
      sudden and violent downpours are usually too fast to escape, often in the early
      afternoon for an hour or so. But then the sun reappears, the crazy traffic returns, and
      the streets come alive again. You kinda expect to be wet, and then after can enjoy the
      rich, fecund smell of the earth. If I can give Saigon a nickname, it’s city of rain.’
      lu quyen/shutterstock ©
      TYPHOONS
      Typhoons can lash the central and northern coastline in October
      and November. These can be destructive and disrupt travel. Hoi An
      floods every year after storms as rivers burst their banks.
      Weather through the year
      JANUARY
      Ave. daytime max: 21°C
      Days of rainfall: 14 (Danang)
      FEBRUARY
      Ave. daytime max: 22°C
      Days of rainfall: 10 (Danang)
      MARCH
      Ave. daytime max: 24°C
      Days of rainfall: 8 (Danang)
      APRIL
      Ave. daytime max: 27°C
      Days of rainfall: 7 (Danang)
      MAY
      Ave. daytime max: 28°C
      Days of rainfall: 12 (Danang)
      JUNE
      Ave. daytime max: 30°C
      Days of rainfall: 11 (Danang)
      JULY
      Ave. daytime max: 29°C
      Days of rainfall: 12 (Danang)
      AUGUST
      Ave. daytime max: 29°C
      Days of rainfall: 14 (Danang)
      SEPTEMBER
      Ave. daytime max: 28°C
      Days of rainfall: 17 (Danang)
      OCTOBER
      Ave. daytime max: 26°C
      Days of rainfall: 18 (Danang)
      NOVEMBER
      Ave. daytime max: 24°C
      Days of rainfall: 16 (Danang)
      DECEMBER
      Ave. daytime max: 22°C
      Days of rainfall: 17 (Danang)
      GET PREPARED
      FOR VIETNAM
      Useful things to load in your bag, your ears and your brain.
      Bamboo fish traps are part of the Vietnamese craft revival | vietnam stock images/shutterstock ©
      Manners
      Be modest with public displays of affection, including hugging and especially
      kissing.
      Don’t pat or touch people (including children) on the head. Avoid pointing your feet
      at religious objects, including images of Buddha.
      Try to remain calm and not lose your temper; shouting and aggression causes a loss
      of face for both parties. When bargaining, adopt a patient approach.
      Clothes
      Seasonal wear: Vietnam is in the tropics, but visit anywhere north of Hoi
      An between November and March and it can be cool, so pack some layers.
      If you’re travelling around the northern mountains in winter (December to
      February), you’ll definitely appreciate a jacket or fleece. The rest of the
      year, and in the south, flip-flops or sandals, a T-shirt and shorts are likely to
      be your daily uniform.
      Formal dress: In government buildings, temples or if attending a formal
      dinner, legs should be covered and sleeveless tops avoided.
      Casual clothes: There are no serious cultural concerns about wearing
      inappropriate clothing in Vietnam except for official occasions or business
      meetings.
      READ
      The Quiet American
      (Graham Greene; 1955) Classic novel set in the 1950s in Vietnam
      as the French empire is collapsing.
      The Sorrow of War
      (Bao Ninh; 1990) The North Vietnamese perspective, retold in
      novel form via flashbacks.
      Vietnam: Rising Dragon
      (Bill Hayton; 2011) Candid assessment of the nation with
      excellent political analysis and cultural content.
      The Mountains Sing
      (Nguyễn Phan Quế Mai; 2020) Vividly told novel dealing with the
      struggles facing a Vietnamese family over decades.
      Words
      Xin chào. Hello. (sin jòw)
      Tạm biệt. Goodbye. (daạm bee·ụht)
      Vâng. (N) Yes. (vuhng)
      Dạ. (S) Yes (yạ)
      Không. No. (kawm)
      Làm ơn. Please. (laàm ern)
      Cảm ơn. Thank you (ğaảm ern)
      Không có chi. You’re welcome. (kawm ğó jee)
      Xin lỗi. Excuse me. (sin lõy)
      Có khỏe không? How are you? (ğáw kwả kawm)
      Khỏe, cám ơn. Fine, thank you. (kwả ğaảm ern)
      Tên là gì? What’s your name? (den laà zeè)
      Tên tôi là … My name is … (den doy laà …)
      Bạn có nói được Do you speak English? (baạn ğó nóy đuhr·ẹrk)
      Tôi (không) hiểu I (don’t) understand.. (doy (kawm) heẻ·oo)
      … ở đâu? Where is …?
      (… ẻr đoh)
      Xin viết ra giùm tôi. Could you write it down, please? (sin vee·úht zaa zùm doy)
      Cái này giá bao nhiêu?
      How much is this? (ğaí này zaá bow nyee·oo)
      Tôi chỉ ngắm xem. I’m just looking. doy jeẻ ngúhm sam
      WATCH
      Apocalypse Now (Francis Ford Coppola; 1979) The American
      War depicted as an epic ‘heart of darkness’ adventure.
      The Vietnam War (Ken Burns and Lynn Novick; 2017)
      Outstanding documentary series that examines the roots of the
      conflict, war itself and its consequences.
      The Deer Hunter (Michael Cimino; 1978) Examines the
      emotional breakdown suffered by small-town-American
      servicemen.
      Cyclo (Tran Anh Hung; 1995) Visually stunning masterpiece that
      cuts to the core of HCMC’s underworld.
      lafoto/shutterstock ©
      LISTEN
      Saigoneer
      (saigoneer.com) Superb podcasts with in-depth coverage of
      Vietnamese culture, news stories and art.
      A Vietnam Podcast
      Interviews with an incredible diversity of Vietnamese people,
      from a sex coach to comedians.
      Ohio
      (Crosby, Stills, Nash & Young; 1970) Anti-war anthem capturing
      the rage and anger of the times.
      19
      (Paul Hardcastle; 1985) Chart-topping electro classic which
      references the average age of US soldiers sent to Vietnam.
      THE FOOD SCENE
      One of the world’s greatest cuisines, Vietnamese food features fresh
      and vibrant flavours, excellent street food and is superb value for
      money..
      Bun Cha | bonchan/shutterstock ©
      There are said to be nearly 500 traditional Vietnamese dishes, with amazing
      variety in cooking styles and ingredients. Broadly, the nation’s cuisine can
      be divided into regions: the north, centre and south.
      Soy sauce, Chinese influence, hearty soups like pho and hotpots typify
      northern cuisine. Central Vietnamese food is known for its prodigious use
      of fresh herbs, chilli and intricate flavours; Hue imperial cuisine and Hoi
      An specialities are highlights in this area. Southern food is sweet, spicy and
      tropical – its curries and clay-pot dishes will be familiar to lovers of Thai
      and Cambodian cooking.
      Everywhere you’ll find that Vietnamese meals are superbly prepared and
      beautifully presented.
      If there’s one golden rule in Vietnam when it comes to eating out, it’s that
      the more local the place, the more authentic the food. So look out for plastic
      chairs and strip lights rather than background jazz and comfort.
      Vegetarians & Vegans
      Vietnam is not the easiest country for vegetarians and vegans, but there are
      usually good options in most restaurants. Be aware that fish sauce is a key
      staple in local cuisine and quite tricky to avoid. In tourist areas many places
      cater for vegetarians, but off the beaten track expect misunderstandings as
      bits of meat may be added to veggie dishes for ‘flavour’. Look out for com
      chay (vegetarian) restaurants serving vegan food, which can be found
      across Vietnam, often adjacent to Buddhist temples. Around the first and
      15th days of the Buddhist calendar month, some food stalls substitute tofu
      in their dishes.
      Coffee & Tea
      Vietnam’s coffee culture is verging on national obsession, with almost every
      village having a cafe or two; big cities boast thousands. Many locals favour
      iced coffee, served with or without (condensed) milk. Enjoying traditional
      Vietnamese drip coffee – a very potent brew indeed – is a real highlight.
      Specialist coffee shops are becoming common, serving espressos, flat
      whites and the like. Pour-over coffee using interesting arabica beans is also
      widely available.
      Tea is a very big deal too, and a glass is usually provided to accompany
      every meal. Northerners favour hot green tea, while in the south the same is
      often served over big chunks of ice.
      Fruit
      Fruit lovers rejoice, for the choice is mind-boggling. Mangoes are
      everywhere and excellent. Guavas are either sour green or soft and tartly
      floral pink. You’ll also find juicy lychees and longans and exotic
      mangosteen, papaya, passionfruit and jackfruit. Look out too for the ‘hairy’
      scarlet-skinned rambutan. Vietnam is famous for its delicious dragon fruit, a
      major export, with pale or purple flesh. Numerous varieties of banana can
      be found, including small red-skinned ones.
      Tamarind is a typically southern ingredient; it also sauces shelled or
      unshelled prawns in tom rang me – a messy but rewarding sweet-tart dish.
      Lychees at an outdoor market | stephen barnes/shutterstock ©
      FOOD & WINE FESTIVALS
      Tet (between 19 January and 20 February, pictured) Vietnamese New Year feasts of
      banh tet (sticky rice with pork and egg) and mut (dried and sugared fruits).
      Buon Ma Thuot Coffee Festival (March) Showcases Vietnam’s coffee culture in the
      southwest highlands.
      Co Ho Rice Festival (June) Celebrating the harvest with rice wine, dancing and
      singing in Co Ho villages across Lam Dong province.
      Hue Festival (biannual in June; next in 2024 and 2026) Famous chefs and food
      producers gather in Hue to celebrate Vietnam’s culinary riches.
      Tet Trung Thu (between 8 September and 7 October) Traditional moon cakes are
      eaten to celebrate the annual Full Moon Festival. Nationwide.
      dong nhat huy/shutterstock ©
      Best Vietnamese dishes
      PHO
      Noodle soup in a rich broth with beef (or chicken), especially for breakfast.
      BANH MI
      Baguette stuffed with meat, pâté, veggies and pickles.
      BUN CHA
      Barbecued sliced pork served with thin rice vermicelli and noodle sheets.
      SPRING ROLLS
      Includes glass noodles, bean sprouts, herbs and pork. Always with a dip.
      BUN BO HUE
      A spicy noodle soup with beef and sausage prepared with lime and lemongrass.
      CAU LAU
      Thick noodles with broth and topped with pork, bean sprouts, greens, herbs and
      croutons.
      BANH XEO
      Crunchy pancake-style snack, stuffed with prawns or pork, bean sprouts and herbs.
      BO BIA
      Tiny shrimp, lettuce and Vietnamese sausage, rolled up in rice paper with a peanut
      sauce dip.
      HOW TO… Eat in Vietnam
      Generally, Vietnamese eat three meals per day. Breakfast is often
      eaten very early and might be a bowl of noodles like pho or chao
      (rice porridge). Lunch is eaten between 11am and noon, and is a
      social affair with workmates. Dinner (from 5pm) is a leisurely
      occasion shared with friends and family. As foreigners tend to rise
      later in the day, hotel restaurants may serve breakfast until 10am.
      Bac Ha market | asia images/Shutterstock ©
      Where to Eat
      Food stalls often specialise in just one dish; simple com (literally
      ‘rice’) restaurants serve the staple along with vegetables and meat
      or seafood. Vietnamese-style food courts serve dishes from around
      the country, and usually other Asian cuisines too. Most Vietnamese
      restaurants are very spartan, with concrete floors and strip lights
      (and sometimes blaring televisions). Floors may only be swept
      once or twice a day. Don’t expect dishes to arrive in a particular
      order; they’ll generally be served when cooked. It’s customary for
      consumed bottles of beer to remain stacked up on a table while
      eating, so staff can tally up how many have been downed. It may all
      seem a tad chaotic, but hustle and bustle is very much part of the
      Vietnamese dining experience.
      Table Etiquette
      You’ll be given a smallish bowl to eat from, which will be placed on a
      small plate, and there will be chopsticks and a soup spoon to one
      side. Each place setting will include a small dipping bowl for nuoc
      cham (dipping sauces). A classic dip consists of nuoc mam (fish
      sauce) mixed with ingredients like lime juice, chilli and sugar. Don’t
      dip your chopsticks into the central bowls of shared food, but use
      the communal serving spoons instead. Pick up your bowl with your
      left hand, bring it close to your mouth and use the chopsticks to
      manoeuvre the food. If you’re eating noodles, lower your head till it
      hangs over the bowl and slurp away.
      Hands-on
      Vietnamese diners eat primarily with chopsticks, but do enjoy a
      hands-on approach at times. There are many dishes that call for
      rolling or wrapping at the table, for adding ingredients (like
      hotpots) or grilling (barbecued meats). Your host may de-shell a
      shrimp and pass it to you with their hands as an act of friendship,
      but generally it’s everyone for themselves.
      DINING TIPS
      Nearly all meals are eaten with chopsticks. Remember not to leave them standing in a
      V-shape in your bowl as this is a sign of death. If you’re dining in a private home, it’s
      polite for the host to offer more food than the guests can eat, and it’s polite for guests
      not to eat everything. When dining out with a group of Vietnamese people it’s
      common for the most senior person to pay for the entire bill. You should offer to
      contribute, but don’t expect your offer to be accepted.
      The Regions of Vietnam
      Travelling north to south is a Vietnamese journey that,
      geographically and gastronomically, begins in China and ends in
      Southeast Asia. Differences in history, culture and geography
      combine for many techniques, ingredients and tastes, all linked by
      the Vietnamese love for vibrant flavours, fresh herbs, noodles and
      seafood.
      Northern Vietnam
      Northern Vietnamese food bears the imprint of centuries of
      Chinese occupation. Comforting noodle dishes, mild flavours and
      rustic elegance underpin the region’s cuisine. Soy is used as
      frequently as fish sauce, rice vinegar adds sourness, chillies give
      way to black pepper, and long cooking times coax maximum
      flavour from unpretentious ingredients.
      Central Vietnam
      Positioned between culinary extremes, the food of central Vietnam
      combines moderation and balance – except where it concerns the
      locals love of chilli. People cook from the land, transforming
      modest resources into fare fit for an emperor. Everything seems
      smaller; baguettes and herbs are miniature versions of their
      southern selves. One edible legacy of the royal court is easily found
      on the street: banh beo, delicate steamed cakes made from rice
      flour. The central Vietnamese like gutsy and spicy flavours,
      including briny shrimp sauce.
      Banh beo | luna.nguyen/shutterstock ©
      Southern Vietnam
      Southern cuisine emphasises the region’s tropical abundance and
      tends to be on the sweet side. Vendors at southern markets display
      lush, big-leafed herbs, colourful fruits and the freshest fish.
      Coconut milk infuses mild curries and lends richness to sweets.
      The southern love of fresh herbs, fruit and vegetables comes to the
      fore in refreshing goi (salads) of green papaya, grapefruit-like
      pomelo or lotus stems.
      MEALS OF A LIFETIME
      Restaurant Esta Intimate Saigon restaurant offering some of the finest
      contemporary cuisine in Vietnam.
      Tung In Hanoi, the exceptional menu is highly seasonal, mixing Viet and European
      flavours with aplomb.
      Cuisine Wat Damnak Outstanding modern Khmer cuisine and a sublime setting in
      Siem Reap.
      Ganh Hao On the outskirts of Vung Tau, here you dine on sublime, superbly
      presented seafood right by the ocean.
      Grill 63 For the ultimate table with a view, this high-end, high-rise restaurant is
      located on the 63rd floor of a Hanoi skyscraper.
      THE YEAR IN FOOD
      MAR–JUN
      The Cold Food festival of Tet Han Thuc is celebrated with
      glutinous, sweetened rice flour balls called banh troi and banh
      chay. Luscious mangoes from Cao Lanh are in season in the
      Mekong Delta.
      gam studio/shutterstock ©
      JUN–JUL
      Fresh lychees are sold across northern Vietnam. Fragrant durian
      is in season in the Mekong Delta. It’s also peak season for dragon
      fruit. The perfect time to snack on summer rolls.
      tran qui thinh/shutterstock ©
      SEP–OCT
      Pomelos fill the markets of central Vietnam and guava is in
      season. Moon cakes, stuffed with a near-infinite variety of
      ingredients, both sweet and savoury, are eaten to mark Harvest
      Festival.
      hoang hao hiep/shutterstock ©
      DEC–FEB
      Hearty, warming soups and noodle dishes reign. It’s a great time
      to eat banh da cua (red noodles with crab paste) in Haiphong or
      banh troi tau (rice dumplings with green bean or black sesame in
      ginger).
      dana stirberova/shutterstock ©
      THE OUTDOORS
      With over 3000km of beach-blessed coastline, gorgeous offshore
      islands, rainforests, wetlands and pine-clad highlands, Vietnam
      offers outstanding outdoor appeal.
      Kayaking, Ha Long Bay | soft_light/shutterstock ©
      Away from the nation’s extraordinary coastline, much of the Vietnamese
      interior is mountainous, with highlands forming a natural barrier with China
      and Laos.
      Both the north and south have incredibly fertile river plains, while in the
      centre of the country the land mass is just 50km or so wide.
      Outstanding adventure sports operators can be found throughout the
      country. Watersports include superb kayaking and kitesurfing, diving and
      snorkelling, sailing and surfing. Inland there’s a huge amount of outdoor
      options, including hiking, cycling and motorbiking, as well as canyoning
      and whitewater rafting.
      However, some careful planning is essential – Vietnam’s climate is
      extremely variable and monsoon-dependent.
      Walking & Hiking
      Vietnam offers excellent hiking. The scenery is often remarkable, with
      plunging highland valleys and soaring limestone mountains. Northern
      Vietnam is generally your best bet: its dramatic mountain paths and
      fascinating minority culture are huge draws. Elsewhere, national parks and
      nature reserves have established trails. Sapa is Vietnam’s hiking hub. The
      scenery is wonderful, with majestic mountains, impossibly green rice
      paddies and tribal villages. The main trails are incredibly popular; to trek
      more remote paths, find an expert local guide. Bac Ha is a good alternative
      base; it’s less rainy and the trails are not heavily trampled.
      High-altitude Ha Giang province is the nation’s Tibet. Hikers can hook
      up with guides in Ha Giang city, or head out to Dong Van where there are
      exciting trekking opportunities. Cat Ba Island and the Ba Be National Park
      lake region are other hiking hot spots. Some outstanding treks are being
      developed between the limestone hills of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National
      Park by outfits such as Jungle Boss Trekking.
      In Dalat adventure tour operators offer fine hikes, one rewarding area is
      the Bidoup Nui Ba National Park. Further south there’s little to get excited
      about – the climate is perennially humid and the landscape largely flat.
      FAMILY ADVENTURES
      Caving in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park Frankly nowhere else on the globe
      comes close; the cave systems here are truly monumental.
      Learning to Kitesurf in Mui Ne Expert instructors guide you through the basics and
      the beach setting is perfect.
      Pedalling the Delta Guided cycling tours of the Mekong region’s back roads are
      richly rewarding.
      Hiking around Bac Ha Exploring tribal villages and highland paths on foot.
      Canyoning around Dalat This region of forests and waterfalls is ideal for riverbed
      adventures.
      Cycling
      Bikes are a popular mode of transport in Vietnam, so cycling is an excellent
      way to experience the country. The flat lands of the Mekong Delta region
      are ideal for long-distance rides down back roads. Good routes include the
      country lanes around Chau Doc, and the Cambodian border backroads from
      Chau Doc to Ha Tien. Hoi An and Hue are excellent bases for exploring
      craft villages and for cycling tours. Dalat has lots of dirt trails and is the
      base camp for the dramatic two-day descent to Mui Ne. Heading further
      north, fine cycling opportunities await in the highly scenic region fringing
      Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park as well as in the highland lanes around
      Ba Be National Park and Bac Ha in the far north.
      Outdoor Hot Spots
      SNORKELLING
      Local tour operators in Con Dao run snorkelling trips to offshore
      reefs rich in hard and soft corals.
      BIRDWATCHING
      At the Tra Su Cajuput Forest near Chau Doc there are huge
      numbers of waders in a sunken forest.
      SCOOTERING
      Buzzing along the rural lanes around Hoi An is a delight,
      dropping by farms and seafood markets.
      BOAT TRIPS
      Explore the impressive limestone scenery around Tam Coc on a
      memorable boat trip.
      SANDBOARDING
      The magnificent white sand dunes of Mui Ne offer sandboarding;
      book with a tour or rent a plastic sledge by the dunes.
      SWIMMING
      There’s wonderful beach swimming around the dreamy tropical
      bays in the gorgeous An Thoi archipelago.
      ZIPLINING
      The dramatic lines and skybridges at the well-organised Angkor
      Zipline are a hit with families.
      Caving
      There are stupendous cave trips at Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park,
      many of which involve some hiking, swimming (there are a lot of river
      caves) and a short climb or two.
      Specialist Oxalis Adventure Tours is the only operator licensed to take
      you to the wonders of Hang Son Doong, the world’s largest cave. But if
      your budget won’t stretch to this, other excellent options include Dark
      Cave, which you can visit independently; this is a memorable day out that
      takes in some zip-lining, cave swimming and kayaking. You can also trek
      7km inside remarkable Paradise Cave and there’s the lovely swim-through
      Tu Lan cave system.
      Son Doong cave | hyunwoong park/shutterstock ©
      grab your mask
      The Con Dao Islands (pictured) offer unquestionably the best diving in Vietnam.
      quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock ©
      Kitesurfing, Windsurfing, Surfing & Sailing
      Kitesurfing and windsurfing are growing in popularity in Vietnam. Mui Ne
      Beach is a wind-chasers’ mecca in Asia with competitions and a real buzz
      about the place. My Hoa, north of Ninh Chu Beach, is an emerging
      kitesurfing destination with surf camps and a barefoot vibe. Nha Trang and
      Vung Tau are other possibilities. The best conditions in Mui Ne and My
      Hoa are between November and April. Mornings are ideal for beginners,
      while in the afternoon wind speeds regularly reach 35 knots. Manta Sail
      Training Centre, which is also based in Mui Ne, is a professional sailing
      outfit, run by an English woman and which offers full training and boat
      rentals. In Phu Quoc, Viet Sail offers dinghies and catamarans for training
      and excursions.
      There’s surf most times of the year in Vietnam, though it isn’t an
      acclaimed destination. Surf’s up between November and April when the
      winter monsoon blows from the north.
      The original GI Joe break, Danang Beach is a 30km stretch of sand,
      which can produce clean peaks greater than 2m. In high season, head to Bai
      Dai beach, 27km south of Nha Trang, where’s there’s a good left-hand
      break. Beginners can head to Mui Ne, with multiple breaks around the bay.
      Further south, Vung Tau is inconsistent but offers some of Vietnam’s best
      waves when conditions are right.
      Kitesurfing, Mui Ne beach | dan baciu/shutterstock ©
      Diving & Snorkelling
      Vietnam isn’t a world-class dive destination but it does have some
      fascinating dive sites. The Con Dao Islands offer unquestionably the best
      diving in Vietnam, with diverse (but not bountiful) marine life, fine reefs
      and even a wreck dive. However, prices are high (around US$160 for two
      dives).
      Nha Trang has several reputable dive operators, though local reefs can be
      degraded. Hoi An’s dive schools head to the Cham Islands, where macro
      life can be intriguing. Phu Quoc Island is another popular spot. Vietnam is
      home to some dodgy dive shops; Nha Trang in particular has several such
      places. Stick to reputable dive schools with good safety procedures,
      qualified instructors and well-maintained equipment.
      Kayaking, SUP & Rafting
      Kayaking is very popular around Halong Bay. Many tours now include a
      spot of kayaking or stand-up paddle boarding through the karst islands, or
      you can choose a specialist and paddle around limestone pinnacles before
      overnighting on a remote bay. Other key destinations include Cat Ba Island,
      Ba Be National Park, the Con Dao Islands, Phong Nha, Dalat, Cat Tien
      National Park and rivers in the Hoi An region. You can also rent sea kayaks
      and SUPs on many beaches including Nha Trang, Mui Ne and Bai Xep.
      Whitewater rafting is rewarding in Dalat, where operators such as Phat
      Tire run tours. The Da Don River with Class II and III rapids, is superb.
      Rock Climbing & Canyoning
      Cat Ba is the capital of the Vietnam climbing scene, with Langur’s
      Adventures offering rope climbing on karst hills, deep-water soloing, and
      climbing and kayaking combo excursions. In Hoi An, Phat Tire offers
      climbing and rappelling on a marble cliff. Another emerging destination is
      Huu Lung, between Hanoi and Lang Son; consult VietClimb (vietclimb.vn)
      for more information.
      Canyoning involves descending river valleys using a mixture of
      rappelling, scrambling, hiking and swimming. It’s very popular in Dalat.
      Don’t compromise on safety; only book canyoning trips through reputable,
      well-established companies. Sadly, travellers have died in canyoning
      accidents around Dalat.
      Abseiling, Datanla falls | withgod/shutterstock ©,
      THE OUTDOORS
      Where to find Vietnam’s best outdoor activities.

THE GUIDE
VIETNAM
Chapters in this section are organised by hubs and their surrounding
areas. We see the hub as your base in the destination, where you’ll
find unique experiences, local insights, insider tips and expert
recommendations. It’s also your gateway to the surrounding area,
where you’ll see what and how much you can do from there.

Fishing, Quay Son River, Cao Bang | quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock ©
HANOI
A CITY ON THE MOVE
Vietnam’s capital oozes character, with its hodgepodge architecture,
anarchic traffic and a rambunctious population.
Train Street | tony albelton/shutterstock ©
This historic city has one foot buried in a fascinating past, while the other
strides confidently into the future. With many millions of motorbikes, it surges
with the incessant din of blaring horns, while historical nuggets from periods of
French rule and Chinese influence glint in the haze.
Explore the streets and alleys of Hoan Kiem and the Old Quarter, where craft
families hawk their produce. Practise tai chi at dawn or play chess with goateed
grandfathers at dusk.
Devour divine food at every corner, sample market wares, uncover an
evolving arts scene and hunt down the perfect egg coffee. Meet the people,
delve into the past and witness the constant evolution of a messy, beautiful,
salmagundi of a city.
Emperor Ly Thai To moved his capital here in 1010 CE, naming it Thang
Long (Ascending Dragon). The city was renamed Hanoi by Emperor Tu Duc in
1831, from the words ha (river) and noi (inside), referring to its position within
a bend of the Song Hong (Red River). Hanoi served as the capital of French
Indochina before becoming a bastion of Vietnamese communism. During the
American War, heavy US bombing destroyed parts of Hanoi and killed
hundreds of civilians.
One of the prime targets was the 1682m-long Long Bien Bridge. US aircraft
repeatedly bombed this strategic point, yet after each attack the Vietnamese
managed to improvise replacement spans and return road and rail services.
It is said that the US military ended the attacks when US prisoners of war
(POWs) were put to work repairing the structure.
Today the bridge is renowned as a symbol of the tenacity and strength of the
people of Hanoi.
The city remains richly decorated with colonial and Soviet architecture,
hidden-away temples and a honeycomb of small alleyways.
While voracious modernisation may have drowned out some of Hanoi’s
vibrant palette of Vietnamese, Chinese, French and Russian influences, many
tempting islets of heritage remain in the churning sea of modern construction.
Old Quarter | gary yim/shutterstock ©
THE MAIN AREAS
HOAN KIEM LAKE
Hanoi’s geographical and spiritual heartland.
THE OLD QUARTER
Labyrinthine ancient trading quarter.
THE FRENCH QUARTER
Boulevards, mansions, parks and lakes.
BA DINH & WESTERN HANOI
Grand monuments and local life.
WEST LAKE & TRUC BACH LAKE
Neighbourhood wanderings and international flair.
BEYOND HANOI
Legendary bays, pagodas and national parks.
Find Your Way
On paper Hanoi is one of Southeast Asia’s biggest metropolises, but it
often feels more like a colossal cluster of gigantic villages. Hoan Kiem
Lake is at Hanoi’s heart, and from there the city fans out in all directions.
Plan Your Days
Hanoi might be huge, but moving between places of interest rarely takes
more than half an hour. Don’t forget to sit, drink, eat and watch the world
go by – it’s what Hanoi is all about.
Cyclo rider for hire | studiolaska/shutterstock ©
DAY 1
Morning

• Start with a pre-breakfast loop of Hoan Kiem Lake, looking out for Ngoc Son Temple
  and Turtle Tower. Find some tasty street food for breakfast and then stop for some iced
  lemon tea in front of St Joseph’s Cathedral. From there head north and dive headfirst
  into the Old Quarter for lunch.
  Afternoon
• Get lost in the alleyways, keeping your eyes peeled for hidden temples and atmospheric
  trading streets, such as P Thuoc Bac. Then discover why Hanoi is Southeast Asia’s cafe
  capital.
  Evening
• Finish your first day with some bia hoi (fresh beer).
  DAY 2
  Morning
• Begin by peeling back the layers of Hanoi’s history in Ba Dinh at the Imperial Citadel of
  Thang Long and the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum Complex. Enjoy lunch in a restaurant on
  one of the neighbourhood’s stately streets.
  Afternoon
• Refuel in a cafe with character, such as Manzi Art Space and Cafe, before heading
  north to Truc Bach Lake for some relative calm. Loop the lake, try some specialty snacks
  and visit Tran Quoc Pagoda. Linger for long enough and enjoy a fabulous sunset on a
  clear day.
  Evening
• Dine in elegance in the French Quarter.
  DAY 3
  Morning
• After breakfast, return to the French Quarter for coffee before visiting Hoa Lo Prison
  or the Vietnamese Women’s Museum. Then it’s time to revisit the Old Quarter for
  another street food lunch.
  Afternoon
• After lunch, go west to the Temple of Literature and then further west still to the
  Museum of Ethnology. If you’re going to the northern mountains, a visit to this
  museum is essential. Their water puppet shows are also fun.
  Evening
• Cocktail bar crawl around Hoan Kiem and the Old Quarter to round off your Hanoi
  experience.
  YOU’LL ALSO WANT TO…
  Explore the parks, drink loads more coffee and do some day or half-day
  trips outside of the city.
  SLEEP SOMEWHAT SOUNDLY
  Look for a boutique hotel in the Old Quarter and wake to a vibrant
  neighbourhood swirling around you.
  xita/shutterstock ©
  CATCH A SHOW
  Marvel at the interiors of the Hanoi Opera House by booking in for an
  evening performance.
  vietnam stock images/shutterstock ©
  GO CRUISING
  Cruise Halong Bay, the quintessential day or multiday trip from Hanoi,
  with emerald waters, karst mountains and loads of activities.
  efired/shutterstock ©
  CROSS THE TRACKS
  Visit Hanoi Train Street, which makes for a fascinating Old Quarter
  activity – when the authorities allow it.
  efired/shutterstock ©
  EAT AND DRINK LIKE A LOCAL
  Return to the Old Quarter to eat and drink; the food and bar scenes
  can’t be overstated.
  boris-b/shutterstock ©
  EXPLORE EXPAT ENCLAVES
  Enjoy West Lake, the centre of expat life, with leafy streets, cool cafes
  and an international dining scene.
  vietnam stock images/shutterstock©
  ESCAPE THE CITY
  Beyond Halong Bay, there are craft villages, ancient pagodas and
  national parks, such as Ba Vi.
  minhhue/shutterstock ©
  HOAN KIEM LAKE
  GEOGRAPHICAL, CULTURAL AND SPIRITUAL
  HEARTLAND
  Linking the Old Quarter with the French Quarter is the city’s most attractive
  lake: Hoan Kiem Lake, which serves as a handy cartographic reference point for
  the rest of the city. Explore the area at any time, though sunrise and sunset are
  particularly romantic for lakeshore wanderers and photographers.
  The twin bell towers of St Joseph’s Cathedral – Hanoi’s most imposing chunk
  of church heritage – rise to the west of the water. Take in the scene of the
  church and the plaza in front through the steam of a cappuccino or with an iced
  lemon tea from an assortment of artfully positioned cafes. Another grandiose
  corner of French heritage is on the southeast section of the lake: the Hanoi
  Opera House, an extravagant remnant of colonial Vietnam, and the National
  Museum of History, which attempts to blend European and Eastern architectural
  styles.
  HIGHLIGHTS
  1 Hanoi Opera House
  2 Hoan Kiem Lake
  3 Martyrs’ Monument
  4 National Museum of Vietnamese History
  5 Ngoc Son Temple
  6 St Joseph Cathedral
  SIGHTS
  7 Laughter Yoga
  8 Thap Rua
  ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS
  9 Latin Dance
  10 Tai Chi
  EATING
  11 Bun Dau Co Tuyen Mam Tom Hang Khay
  12 Bun Thang Co Binh
  13 Long Vi Dung Nom Thit Bo Co
  14 Pho Thin
  15 Quan Banh Cuon Bao Khanh
  TOP TIP
  Hoan Kiem takes on a different personality on the weekends when traffic is banned from the
  roads that circle the lake. Instead, hip-hop dance troupes, toddlers driving mini-Ferraris and
  busking musicians take over the streets, creating a riotous, jovial atmosphere. This is one of
  the most enjoyable times to visit.
  Hoan Kiem Lake
  ATMOSPHERIC AND PHOTOGENIC LAKE
  Legend claims that in the mid-15th century, heaven sent Emperor Le Loi a
  magical sword, which he used to drive the Chinese from Vietnam. After the war
  a giant golden turtle grabbed the sword and disappeared into the depths of this
  lake to return it to its divine owners, inspiring the name Ho Hoan Kiem (Lake
  of the Returned Sword). A number of ancient structures can be found around
  the lake, such as the pagoda-like stone gateway Thap Hoa Phong (Hoa Phong
  Tower). The ramshackle Thap Rua (Turtle Tower), near the southern end, is an
  emblem of Hanoi.
  Turtle Tower, Hoan Kiem Lake | trong nguyen/shutterstock ©
  Ngoc Son Temple
  ISLAND TEMPLE
  Meaning ‘Temple of the Jade Mountain’, Hanoi’s most visited temple sits on a
  small island in the northern part of Hoan Kiem Lake, connected to the lakeshore
  by an elegant scarlet bridge (called Cau The Huc), constructed in classical
  Vietnamese style and spectacularly lit in the evenings. The temple has existed
  for centuries and is thus dedicated to a number of legendary figures, both real
  and mythical, including General Tran Hung Dao (who defeated the Mongols in
  the 13th century), La To (patron saint of physicians) and the folkloric turtle that
  some believe still roams the waters.
  Huc Bridge from the Ngoc Son Temple | pil-art/shutterstock ©
  St Joseph’s Cathedral
  CHRISTIANITY, COFFEE AND ICED LEMON TEA
  Hanoi’s neo-gothic St Joseph’s Cathedral was inaugurated in 1886, and has a
  soaring facade facing a little plaza that’s usually stuffed with selfie sticks and
  posses of preening photographers. The church’s most noteworthy features are
  the looming twin bell towers, elaborate golden altar and fine stained-glass
  windows.
  Entrance via the main gate is only permitted during mass: times are usually
  listed on a sign on the gates to the left of the cathedral. At other times, it’s
  sometimes possible to enter via the road to the left of the cathedral. An array of
  cafes and restaurants are artfully placed with views to the cathedral, including
  Hanoi House, La Place, Eden Café and Cong Caphe.
  St Joseph’s Cathedral | olga kashubin/shutterstock ©
  TUNG DINING
  A short stroll south of St Joseph’s Cathedral, on P Nha Trung, is one of Hanoi’s most
  exceptional fine dining experiences and a good excuse to splurge. Head chef and owner
  Hoang Tung cut his teeth in Michelin star restaurants in Europe before returning to his
  native city and crafting a restaurant that combines Asian flavours with Scandi minimalism.
  There’s only ever one tasting menu, which changes with the seasons. Advanced booking is
  required. Kuusi by TUNG, the sister cocktail bar, also delivers a carefully crafted taster
  menu.
  TAKE A BREAK
  Dotted around the cathedral is a small cluster of pavement cafes serving tall glasses of
  cold lemon tea and plastic plates of sunflower seeds, popular with cash-strapped
  teenagers and students.
  Martyr’s Monument
  STRIKING STATUE COMMEMORATING WAR HEROES
  This dramatic monument depicts one woman with a sword, one man holding a
  rifle and another a torch. The lettering on the base reads (in Vietnamese)
  ‘Determined to die for the birth of the nation’. It was erected as a memorial to
  those who died fighting for Vietnam’s independence. The Martyr’s Monument
  sits in a small park that often hosts small cultural events, such as festivals that
  showcase traditional Vietnamese crafts and snacks.
  Martyr’s Monument | carrie fereday/shutterstock ©
  Hanoi Opera House
  COMMANDING COLONIAL STRUCTURE AND PERFORMANCE VENUE
  This audacious neoclassical icon of French Indochina is unmissable with its
  Gothic pillars and domes. The 900-seat venue was built in 1911 and modelled
  on Paris’s Palais Garnier, though with a notably more whimsical colour scheme.
  On 16 August 1945 the Viet Minh–run Citizens’ Committee announced that it
  had taken over the city from a balcony in this building.
  For some drama today, book a performance at the ticket booth by the
  entrance or online at ticketvn.com; it’s usually the only way to get inside the
  building and marvel at the ornate interiors. The programme includes ballet,
  classical music, traditional theatre and contemporary acrobatics. Most weekends
  you’ll see Hanoi wedding couples posing for photographs on the elegant front
  steps.
  National Museum of History
  ENGAGING EXHIBITS AND EYE-CATCHING ARCHITECTURE
  Built between 1925 and 1932, this architecturally impressive museum was
  formerly home to the École Française d’Extrême-Orient. Its architect, Ernest
  Hebrard, was among the first in Vietnam to incorporate a blend of Chinese and
  French design elements. Exhibit highlights include bronzes from the Dong Son
  culture (3rd century BCE to 3rd century CE), Hindu statuary from the Khmer
  and Champa kingdoms, jewellery from imperial Vietnam, and displays relating
  to the French occupation and the Communist Party. Signage is adequate enough
  to visit independently, but a prearranged guide will get under the skin of the
  displays.xt
  BEST CAFES IN HOAN KIEM
  Kohibito
  Craft coffee right on the street off P Dinh Le and frequented by suited office workers at
  lunchtime.
  Café Dinh
  Hidden down an alleyway on P Dinh Tien Hoang and serving up egg coffee, a Hanoi
  speciality.
  The Note Coffee
  The neighbourhood’s cutest café, specialising in heartfelt sticky notes on P Luong Van
  Can.
  MORE IN HOAN KIEM
  Sunrise Stroll
  LOOKING AT THE LAKE AT DAWN
  Getting up at the crack of dawn and circumnavigating is well worth the effort as
  the lakeshore serves as an outdoor gym, running track, dance hall and yoga
  studio. Things get going at around 5am, with walkers and runners usually the
  first to make an appearance. Laughter Yoga usually begins before 6am in Ly
  Thai To Park on P Dinh Tien Hoang and is open to anyone though you can
  also watch; come for cackling grannies and grandads. Aerobics, latin dance and
  tai chi happen on the northwest and southeast corners of the lake, usually from
  around 6am; these groups tend to be pre-organised and it’s wise not to get
  involved unless you’re explicitly invited to do so.
  There’s a small outdoor gym on the northeast side of the lake on P Le Thai
  To. You may be asked to make a small donation for the equipment’s upkeep if
  you want to use it.
  WHERE TO STAY IN HOAN KIEM
  Hang Hanh and Bao Khanh Streets
  Bustling streets just a stone’s throw from the lake with a handful of budget and midrange
  options. $
  Silk Path Boutique Hanoi
  Hoan Kiem’s best boutique option with only a handful of rooms, some with lake view. Warm
  and inviting service. $$
  Zephyr Hotel
  Reliable but slightly dated midrange hotel with superb location. Front-facing rooms have a view
  of the lake. $$
  Neighbourhood Eats
  TUCK INTO LOCAL SPECIALITY DISHES
  Despite the area’s tourist appeal, the streets and alleyways that fan out from
  Hoan Kiem Lake are thronged with popular local street food joints. Pho
  (pictured; flat rice noodle soup) is Vietnam’s national dish, and yet it tastes
  completely different depending on where it’s served. For Hanoi’s take on this
  culinary icon try pho bo (beef noodle soup) at Pho Thin, which is embedded in
  an alleyway on P Dinh Tien Hoang. Steaming bowls of bun thang (chicken
  noodle soup), an unsung hero of Hanoi street food that developed from a
  medicinal soup, can be found on P Cau Go at narrow indoor eateries such as
  Bun Thang Co Binh.
  gpointstudio/shutterstock ©
  Just around the corner on compact P Hoan Kiem, a cluster of pavement
  eateries serve up nom bo (beef salad), which combines dried beef, fresh mint,
  roasted peanuts, julienned green papaya and a sweet and spicy fish sauce
  dressing. Long Vi Dung Nom Thit Bo Co, on the corner of P Cau Go and P
  Hoan Kiem, is as good as any.
  Dancing near Hoan Kiem Lake | dmytro gilitukha/shutterstock ©
  Vietnam’s answer to Chinese dumplings is banh cuon, steamed wet rice paper
  rolled with chopped meat and vegetables (usually pork and cat ear mushrooms,
  though other varieties also exist). You’ll find it on P Bao Khanh at Quan Banh
  Cuon Bao Khanh in a shop that has passed through at least three generations of
  women; look out for the large circular steaming pots out front.
  One of Hanoi’s most divisive dishes is bun dau mam tom (fried tofu with
  noodles, salad and a fermented shrimp dipping sauce). It’s the pungent dipping
  sauce that divides opinion, but it can be substituted with soy sauce or fish sauce.
  Try it at Bun Dau Co Tuyen Mam Tom Hang Khay in P Chua Vu Thach off P
  Hang Khay.
  Flaming cocktail making | Kang_kew/shutterstock ©
  BEST COCKTAIL BARS IN HOAN KIEM
  Tadioto
  Low-lit cocktail and wine bar and cultural hub established by journalist and raconteur
  Nguyen Qui Duc.
  Leo’s
  Flashy mixology, charming bartenders and occasional live music in modern speakeasytype
  atmosphere. Quiet during the week.
  Kumquat Tree
  Quality cocktail bar that transforms into a small nightclub on the weekends.
  WHERE TO STAY IN HOAN KIEM
  Sofitel Legend Metropole
  Legendary heritage hotel furnished with a storied history and a past guest list of top-tier
  politicians and celebrities. $$$
  Apricot Hotel
  Lakeside art-themed hotel with a neoclassical design and fitted with a spectacular rooftop pool
  and bar. $$$
  Capella Hanoi
  A brazenly postmodern and over-the-top opera-themed luxury hotel with extra frills, like
  cocktail tasting. $$$
  OLD QUARTER
  History, heritage, charm and chaos
  The Old Quarter is home to over 1000 years of trade and commerce, with no
  signs of slowing down. While its name evokes images of lamplit streets lined
  with wooden storefronts, you’ll find the reality of the Old Quarter more busy
  than romantic. That said, there is a charm here, and much of the enticement is
  the perception of a thriving and pulsing community.
  In the 13th century, Hanoi’s 36 guilds established themselves here, each
  taking a different street – hence the Vietnamese ‘36 Pho Phuong’ (36 Guild
  Sts). There are more than double that many streets in the area today, typically
  named Hang, followed by the word for the product traditionally sold there.
  Some of the specialised streets include P Hang Thiec, with its metalworks and P
  Hang Gai, with its silk, embroidery, lacquerware and paintings.
  A stroll through the historic Old Quarter can last from an hour to a whole
  week, depending on your pace and preference.
  HIGHLIGHTS
  1 Bach Ma Temple
  2 Dong Xuan Market
  3 Hanoi Train Street
  4 Heritage House
  5 Long Bien Bridge
  6 Long Bien Market
  7 Old East Gate
  8 Phuc Tan Public Art Project
  SIGHTS
  9 P Au Trieu
  10 P Bao Khanh
  11 P Hang Hanh
  12 P Hang Quat
  13 P Hang Thiec
  14 P Thuoc Bac
  EATING
  15 Bánh Cuốn Gia Truyền Thanh Vân
  16 Bún Cá Sâm Cây Si
  17 Bún Chả Que Tre
  18 Bun Ngan Nhan
  19 Phố Bát Đàn
  20 Phở Gà Tình
  DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
  21 Bia Hoi pubs
  TOP TIP
  Don’t be scared to delve into alleyways while walking the Old Quarter, no matter how tiny and
  private they may seem. Most alleys are public walkways, and exploring them is how you
  uncover handy shortcuts, clandestine temples and obscure architectural features. If you’re not
  supposed to be somewhere, the residents will let you know. Simply say xin loi (sorry) and
  retreat.
  Heritage House
  A RARE HISTORIC REFUGE
  One of the Old Quarter’s best-restored properties, this traditional merchants’
  house is sparsely but beautifully decorated, with rooms filled with fine furniture
  set around two courtyards. Note the high steps between rooms, a traditional
  design incorporated to stop the flow of bad energy around the property. There
  are crafts and trinkets for sale here, including silver jewellery, basketwork and
  Vietnamese tea sets, and there’s sometimes a calligrapher or another
  craftsperson at work too.
  Intreior Heritage House | oscar espinosa/shutterstock ©
  Old East Gate
  THE LAST ONE STILL STANDING
  Of the 16 medieval gates to the city, only this single stone and brick gate (Cua
  O Quan Chuong in Vietnamese; pictured) remains, and it makes for a dramatic
  entrance to or exit from the Old Quarter. The gate marks the start of P Hang
  Chieu (‘mat street’), so-called because it housed shops selling the rollable
  bamboo mats used for sleeping. Only a handful of these shops remain.
  hecke61/shutterstock ©
  Bach Ma Temple
  PROBABLY THE OLDEST IN THE CITY
  In the heart of the Old Quarter, the small and colourful Bach Ma Temple
  (literally ‘White Horse Temple’; pictured) can claim to be the oldest temple in
  Hanoi, though much of the current structure dates from the 18th century and a
  shrine to Confucius was added in 1839.
  It was originally built by Emperor Ly Thai To in the 11th century to honour a
  white horse that guided him to this site where he chose to construct his city
  walls. Pass through the wonderful old wooden doors of the pagoda to see a
  statue of the legendary white horse flanked by two mythical stalks, symbolising
  longevity, as well as a beautiful, red-lacquered funeral palanquin.
  salajean/shutterstock ©
  Hanoi Train Street
  INSTAGRAM SENSATION
  Becoming an overnight sensation at the start of 2019, Hanoi Train Street
  (pictured) had already begun luring visitors to a line of cafes that began to
  cluster alongside the train tracks around early 2018. The original cafe here was
  The Railway Hanoi, set up – with a slow start – by the enterprising Thao
  Quach in 2017. Coffee-quaffers would gather to watch the train rumble past in
  the evening. Word spread, more travellers began appearing, copycat cafes
  followed and so did the customers.
  Nervous authorities imposed some restrictions, but they were soon lifted as
  The Railway Hanoi set about winning local hearts with projects for the traintrack
  community, including free English lessons for the kids. Locals became
  more involved in the new life of the Train Street and cafes began popping up in
  living rooms.
  Finally deciding that the railway track posed a danger to its new fanbase, the
  authorities suddenly closed the street in October 2019. However, with so few
  tourists in Hanoi during the Covid-19 pandemic, the street reopened in 2020,
  but was swiftly closed again before borders opened in 2022. At the time of
  research, Hanoi Train Street remained closed to pedestrians. But it’s still worth
  a try.
  Hanoi Train Street | cesare palma/shutterstock ©
  The Alternative
  MORE FOR WINDOW SHOPPING
  Even with Hanoi Train Street closed, it’s possible to experience the railway’s
  impact on the Old Quarter. P Phung Hung is relatively friendly to pedestrians
  and runs alongside the tracks, and has trompe-l’oeil street murals painted on
  filled-in stone railway archways at its northern tip. Long Bien Railway Station
  has a grand colonial outdoor staircase, and the station offers raised views over
  the Old Quarter. Bee’Znees, a speakeasy cocktail bar, has an atmospheric
  balcony overlooking the tracks, and if you’re lucky you’ll catch the passing
  rumblings of the evening train.
  efired/shutterstock ©
  Long Bien Market
  FOR EARLY RISERS
  While Dong Xuan Market sells almost anything, Long Bien Market (pictured)
  focuses only on food. This sprawling, raucous and animated market is where
  you’ll find huge mounds of pineapples, portable gardens of herbs and
  vegetables and deep buckets of live fish. There are no souvenir stalls as tourists
  are few and far between. Long Bien Market serves restaurants and street food
  stalls and thus keeps inconvenient hours for visitors. Things get going at around
  midnight and begin to quieten down at dawn.
  mark stephens photography/shutterstock ©
  Long Bien Bridge
  SYMBOL OF DEFIANCE
  A symbol of the tenacity and resilience of the Hanoian people, the Long Bien
  Bridge (pictured; built between 1898 and 1902) was bombed on several
  occasions during the American War, and each time quickly repaired by the
  Vietnamese. The bridge is often mistakenly attributed to Gustave Eiffel (of
  Eiffel Tower fame), but was actually built by a rival construction company. It’s
  used by trains, pedestrians and bikes that, bizarrely, drive on the opposite side
  of the road. Walking along the bridge is the best way to access Banana Island,
  a gigantic patch of green land supporting banana plantations and other farms.
  suroninshutterstock ©
  Phuc Tan Public Art Project
  ART FOR EVERYONE
  Nguyen The Son, local artist and lecturer at the prestigious Vietnam Fine Arts
  University, recruited a team of creatives to craft the Phuc Tan Public Art
  Project, one of Hanoi’s most ambitious outdoor art installations. The project is
  located behind Long Bien Market, south of Long Bien Bridge and on the last
  street before the river. The deprived neighbourhood was selected because of the
  artists’ belief that art can exist anywhere and should be accessible to everyone,
  including the poor. Look out for scenes of feudal life, mythological creatures
  made of broken glass and sail boats fashioned from recycled plastic bottles.
  Finding the installations isn’t necessarily easy, so come prepared with a few
  photos on your phone that you can show locals, who will then direct you where
  to go.
  HANOI CERAMIC MOSAIC MURAL
  Spanning several kilometres along the Song Hong dyke, this mural project (pictured)
  holds the Guinness World Record for being the largest ceramic mosaic on the planet. The
  colourful mural lines busy roads, uses ceramics produced at nearby Bat Trang and depicts
  different periods in Vietnam’s history, local folkloric tales and images celebrating the
  heritage of neighbouring Southeast Asian countries. Local and international artists
  commenced work on the project in 2007; it was completed in 2010 for Hanoi’s 1000thbirthday
  celebrations.
  seree transrisawat/shutterstock ©
  Dong Xuan Market
  MORE FOR WINDOW SHOPPING
  The largest covered market in Hanoi was originally built by the French in 1889
  and almost completely destroyed by fire in 1994. The entrance has since been
  rebuilt. Almost everything you can think of, from fresh (and live) produce to
  cheap clothing, souvenirs, consumer goods and traditional arts and crafts, can
  be found through the market facade’s arched entrance gates. Like many markets
  in Vietnam, stalls flow out from the market building and into the surrounding
  streets. P Nguyen Thiep runs north from the market selling plastic furniture
  before passing under an atmospheric railway bridge. P Nguyen Thien Thuan
  runs south, and accommodates makeshift stalls selling flowers, fruits and
  vegetables; P Thanh Ha is a cluttered street with stalls selling fresh meat and
  fish. A food market runs along the northern edge of Dong Xuan Market in the
  evenings, though it’s never managed to gain much traction. Instead, head to
  Chao Suon Sun Huyen opposite the entrance gates on P Dong Xuan for rice
  porridge with ribs all day and late into the evening.
  Dong Xuan Market | bbbirdz/shutterstock ©
  NOSTALGIC CAFES IN THE OLD QUARTER
  Bancong
  Set within a large art deco building in the middle of the Old Quarter with great views.
  Loading T
  Famous for egg coffee and located in one of the Old Quarter’s finest mansions.
  Cong Ca Phe
  Communist nostalgia meets hipster chic. Excellent coconut coffee.
  MORE IN THE OLD QUARTER
  Sleep Boutique
  ATMOSPHERIC ACCOMMODATION
  Staying in the Old Quarter is an experience in itself. This labyrinthine
  neighbourhood is home to Vietnam’s densest collection of boutique hotels and
  there are rooms to suit every budget. The choice can be bewildering, so
  sometimes selecting a street and going from there is a good way to start. P Au
  Trieu, P Hang Hanh and P Bao Khanh are all well located and have plenty of
  choice. If you want to stay on one of the atmospheric and historic trade guild
  streets, try P Thuoc Bac (traditional medicine street), which perpetually smells
  like medicinal herbs, P Hang Quat (fan street), which sells lustrous religious
  memorabilia, or P Hang Thiec (metalwork street), perhaps the Old Quarter’s
  most spirited (and noisiest!) street. All this variety also means stiff competition
  – and unbeatable deals.
  Eat Right
  STREET FOOD NAMED DESIRE
  With so many invitations to fill empty bellies and relax weary legs, it’s a
  wonder that visitors to Hanoi do any sightseeing at all. Street food appears
  anywhere and everywhere in the Old Quarter, and sometimes in the strangest of
  places. Start off the day with banh cuon (steamed wet rice paper rolled with
  chopped meat and vegetables) at Banh Cuon Gia Truyen Thanh Van. This is
  one of the few banh cuon joints that lets you choose between pork, chicken and
  shrimp.
  Contrary to popular opinion, Hanoi’s favourite lunch dish isn’t pho but bun
  cha (grilled pork with vermicelli noodles). The dish is good almost anywhere,
  but you can try it at Bun Cha Que Tre on Ng Phat Loc. For some tasty bun
  alternatives at lunchtime, try bun ca (noodle soup with fried fish) at Bun Ca
  Sam Cay Si or bun ngan (noodle soup with goose) at Bun Ngan Nhan, both of
  which are on Ng Trung Yen. Most Hanoians eat pho (flat rice noodle soup) for
  breakfast, but if you prefer your noodles in the evening then try Pho Bat Dan
  on P Bat Dan for beef or Pho Ga Tinh on P Quan Thanh for chicken. A day of
  eating in the Old Quarter isn’t complete without bia hoi, light and dangerously
  drinkable draught beer tapped from a metal keg. Bia hoi taverns are scattered
  throughout the Old Quarter, and the pubs frequented by locals will always serve
  decent food, though navigating the poorly translated menu can sometimes be a
  struggle.
  I LIVE HERE: WHERE TO SIP COCKTAILS IN THE OLD
  QUARTER
  Bien Nguyen, co-owner of Old Quarter cafe and restaurant Bancong. @bancong.hanoi
  Bee’Znees
  A speakeasy inspired by the Roaring Twenties and hidden behind a bookshelf, Bee’Znees
  has an decent cocktail menu and blasts toe-tapping electro swing.
  Ne Boong-ke
  Co-founded by the creator of the pho cocktail, which has triumphantly repurposed the
  herbs and spices used in a traditional Hanoian pho for a deliciously unique concoction.
  Aura
  A sophisticated spot for a quiet drink during the week but the atmosphere tends to ramp
  up on the weekends. Grab a spot at the bar if you can.
  NOSTALGIC CAFES IN THE OLD QUARTER
  Cafe Giang
  Claims to be the birthplace of the egg coffee, a must-try in Hanoi.
  Lam
  Hanoi institution that’s been here decades, with locations on P Nguyen Huu Huan.
  The Hanoi Social Club
  One of Hanoi’s first international cafes, still going strong – regular music events.
  FRENCH QUARTER
  TREE-LINED BOULEVARDS AND COLONIAL MANSIONS
  Despite its evocative moniker, today’s French Quarter lacks the style and
  elegance of days past. Many of its once-glamorous villas, annexed by the
  Communist Party for government offices and repatriation housing, stand in
  disrepair, desperate for restoration. Some, occupying Hanoi’s prime
  development sites, have already been demolished in favour of taller, shinier
  things.
  Those that have been best maintained serve as the offices for Hanoi’s foreign
  embassies. In a way, there’s a sense of a cycle completing itself: in creating a
  Parisian-style city befitting their new area of governance, the French
  colonialists appropriated and razed whatever traditional Vietnamese dwellings
  and monuments stood in their way. Occupying the area just south of Hoan Kiem
  Lake, west of the Red River as far as Hanoi Railway Station, and south until
  Cong Vien Thong Nhat (Reunification Park), this quieter part of town is blessed
  with wide, traffic-free pavements. Stroll among the embassies and crumbling
  villas, contemplating what once was.
  HIGHLIGHTS
  1 Ambassador’s Pagoda
  2 Hai Ba Trung Temple
  3 Hanoi Train Station
  4 Hoa Lo Prison
  5 Women’s Museum
  SIGHTS
  6 P Ha Hoi
  7 Reunification Park
  8 Thien Quang Lake
  DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
  9 L’Espace
  TOP TIP
  While many heritage buildings have been lost due to official neglect and rampant
  redevelopment, some notable structures remain and are worth keeping an eye out for while
  wandering the neighbourhood. A good number of them, such as the Indian Embassy, are on P
  Tran Hung Dao.
  Hanoi Railway Station
  ARCHITECTURAL MISMATCH
  Ga Ha Noi (Hanoi Railway Station, from the French word gare) is an
  interesting sight, even if you have no intention of travelling by train. Built in
  1902 with typical French colonial flair, the central hall was irreparably damaged
  by American bombs during the war, and now only the original side wings
  remain. After the war the central hall was replaced with a gigantic modernist
  brise-soleil facade that was designed to help the building cool naturally. The
  interiors are bare and functional, and most of the colonial features have been
  lost. You won’t get to see the back of the building unless you have a ticket.
  Vietnamese Women’s Museum
  WOMEN IN VIETNAMESE SOCIETY & CULTURE
  This excellent museum (Bao Tang Phu Nu Viet Nam) showcases the roles of
  women in Vietnamese society, culture and history. Exhibits cover everything
  from marriage customs to childbirth, but it’s the memories of the wartime
  contribution by individual women that are most poignant. There is a stunning
  collection of wartime propaganda posters, as well as clothing, rural crafts and
  fabric motifs from Vietnam’s ethnic minority groups. Check
  baotangphunu.org.vn for event details and special exhibitions.
  Vietnamese Women’s Museum | sanga park/shutterstock ©
  Ambassadors’ Pagoda
  PEACEFUL BUDDHIST REFUGE
  The official centre of Buddhism in Hanoi, the wonderfully maintained and
  otherwise peaceful Ambassadors’ Pagoda (Chua Quan Su) attracts quite a
  crowd on holidays. During the 17th century there was a guesthouse on-site for
  the ambassadors of Buddhist countries. Today about a dozen monks and nuns
  are based here, though you’re unlikely to run into them on your visit. The words
  written above the central arch of the attractive gate are the Vietnamese
  interpretation of the four Buddhist virtues: kindness, compassion, empathy and
  equanimity.
  Ambassador’s Pagoda | sanga park/shutterstock ©
  Hai Ba Trung Temple
  NEIGHBOURHOOD TEMPLE
  Two kilometres south of Hoan Kiem Lake, this temple was founded in 1142 and
  dedicated to the Trung sisters, who are said to have drowned themselves rather
  than surrender in the wake of their defeat at the hands of the Chinese. There is
  an annual festival held here in January or early February with a colourful
  procession and cultural activities like wrestling and human-chess displays. The
  temple overlooks a circular lake ringed by bia hoi (fresh beer) restaurants and
  tra da (iced tea) stalls, and makes for an interesting snapshot of local life in the
  French Quarter.
  Hoa Lo Prison
  THE HANOI HILTON
  This thought-provoking site is all that remains of the former Hoa Lo Prison,
  ironically nicknamed the ‘Hanoi Hilton’ by US POWs during the American
  War.
  Most exhibits relate to the prison’s use up to the mid-1950s, focusing on the
  Vietnamese struggle for independence from France. A gruesome relic is the
  ominous French guillotine, used to behead Vietnamese revolutionaries.
  There are also propagandistic displays focusing on the American pilots who
  were incarcerated at Hoa Lo during the American War. These pilots include the
  late Senator John McCain (the Republican nominee for the US presidency in
  2008). McCain’s flight suit is displayed, along with a photograph of locals
  rescuing him from Truc Bach Lake after being shot down in 1967.
  The vast prison complex was built by the French in 1896. Originally intended
  to house around 450 inmates, records indicate that by the 1930s there were
  close to 2000. Hoa Lo was never a very successful prison, and hundreds
  escaped its walls over the years – many squeezing out through sewer grates.
  Hoa Lo Prison | leotie/shutterstock ©
  L’ESPACE
  The cultural arm of the Institut Francais, L’Espace offers a diverse programme of cultural
  activities in French, Vietnamese and English. There are art exhibitions, talks and music
  and film evenings.
  MORE IN THE FRENCH QUARTER
  Explore Further South
  AMBLING THROUGH ALLEYWAYS AND PARKS
  The southeast corner of the French Quarter is a charming and rarely visited part
  of the city. P Ha Hoi and around is a rabbit warren of alleyways packed with
  handsome art deco mansions and trendy cafes; try ACID8 for artisanal coffee or
  The Wiselands for accompanying plants and books.
  Just south of this labyrinth is Ho Thien Quang (Thien Quang Lake), which
  has makeshift lakeside cafes and a small cluster of pagodas on its western shore.
  Further south still sits Cong Vien Thong Nhats (Reunification Park), one of
  Hanoi’s best parks. The northern section of the green oasis often hosts food
  festivals and book fairs on the weekends. An outdoor gym and children’s play
  area can be found in the northeast corner. The shores of the large lake that
  dominates the rest of the park are used by joggers, dancers and practitioners of
  tai chi in the late afternoon and early evening. A small island is nestled within
  the lake, and features a moving statue of the prominent Vietnamese
  revolutionary Ton Duc Thang cradling the hands of Ho Chi Minh.
  The Temple of Literature | vietnam stock images/shutterstock ©
  BEST CAFES IN THE FRENCH QUARTER
  Café Thai
  Café Thai has been fuelling Hanoians for decades with quality Vietnamese coffee served
  right on the pavement. It sits on Trieu Viet Vuong, which is known for its cafes of all
  shapes, sizes and styles.
  Habakuk
  Artisanal and quiet cafe famous for its espresso-based coffees. Morphs into a classy bistro
  in the evenings.
  Toka
  Trendy cafe in a stunning repurposed French mansion with exposed brick and leafy
  courtyard. Popular with students and young Hanoians on dates.
  WHERE TO EAT IN THE FRENCH QUARTER
  Uu Dam Chai
  Upmarket vegan restaurant with great décor. The tofu dishes are particularly good. $$
  Vua Cha Ca
  A modern take on cha ca (fried fish with rice noodles), a quintessential Hanoi dish. $$
  Masu
  Superb Japanese food in terrific setting. The sashimi is unmatched in Hanoi. $$$
  BA DINH & WESTERN HANOI
  GRAND HERITAGE MONUMENTS
  Ba Dinh is a wide-ranging district containing many major sights linked to the
  imperial heritage of the city as well as its more recent political history. The
  imposing gate and significant remains of the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long
  loom large, with verdant gardens, colonial relics and military bunkers. To the
  northwest ranges Ba Dinh Sq and sights associated with Ho Chi Minh,
  including Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum and the Ho Chi Minh Museum, as well as
  some grand examples of colonial architecture.
  Linking and crisscrossing the sights are Hanoi’s most regal streets. Jampacked
  with vivacious trees planted by the French, P Phan Dinh Phung runs
  past decadent French villas before culminating at the cylindrical Bot Nuoc Hang
  Dau (Hang Dau Water Tank). P Hoang Dieu is equally as grand, passing Lenin
  Park and the Hanoi Flag Tower. You’ll need to give yourself a couple of days to
  do the area justice.
  TOP TIP
  Were it not for the Temple of Literature, Dong Da wouldn’t feature on most itineraries, but while
  there’s a dearth of prominent tourist sights, the district should have enough art hubs, pretty
  lakes and local eateries to entice intrepid urban explorers.
  Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum
  A HERO PRESERVED
  In the tradition of Lenin, Stalin and Mao, Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum is a
  monumental marble edifice. Contrary to Ho Chi Minh’s desire for a simple
  cremation, the mausoleum was constructed from materials gathered from all
  over Vietnam between 1973 and 1975. Set deep in the bowels of the building in
  a glass sarcophagus is the frail, pale body of Ho Chi Minh. The mausoleum can
  be closed for large chunks of the year for maintenance.
  Dress modestly: wearing shorts, sleeveless T-shirts or hats is not permitted.
  You may be requested to store day packs, cameras and phones before you enter.
  Talking, putting your hands in your pockets and photography are strictly
  prohibited in the mausoleum. The queue usually snakes for several hundred
  metres to the mausoleum entrance and inside, filing past Ho’s body at a slow
  but steady pace.
  If you’re lucky, you’ll catch the changing of the guard outside the
  mausoleum – the pomp and ceremony displayed here almost rivals the British
  equivalent at Buckingham Palace in London.
  HO CHI MINH MUSEUM
  The huge concrete Soviet-style Ho Chi Minh Museum is a triumphalist monument
  dedicated to the life of the founder of modern Vietnam. The often-confusing exhibition is a
  mixed bag; highlights include mementos of Ho’s life, and some fascinating photos and
  dusty official documents relating to the overthrow of the French and the onward march of
  revolutionary socialism. Photography is forbidden and you may be asked to check your
  bag at reception.
  Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House
  HUMBLE ABODE OF A HERO
  This humble, traditional stilt house where Ho lived intermittently from 1958 to
  1969 is set in a well-tended garden adjacent to a carp-filled pond and has been
  preserved just as Ho left it. The clear views through the open doorways and
  windows permit fascinating insights into his everyday life. The stilt house is
  now used for official receptions and isn’t open to the public, but visitors may
  wander the grounds if sticking to the paths.
  Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House | tang trung kien/shutterstock ©
  One Pillar Pagoda
  SYMBOL OF STRENGTH
  The One Pillar Pagoda (Chua Mot Cot) is exactly that: a pagoda that is
  supported, rather elegantly, by a singular pillar that rises from a lotus
  pond. It was originally built by Emperor Ly Thai Tong, who ruled from
  1028 to 1054. According to the annals, the heirless emperor dreamed
  that he met Quan The Am Bo Tat, the Goddess of Mercy, who handed
  him a male child. Ly Thai Tong then married a young peasant girl and
  had a son and heir by her. As a way of expressing his gratitude for this
  event, he constructed a pagoda here in 1049.
  One Pillar Pagoda | fcg/shutterstock ©
  Presidential Palace & Ba Dinh Square
  CENTRE OF POLITICAL POWER
  The Presidential Palace (pictured) is an opulent restored colonial mansion that
  was flung up in 1906 as the Palace for the Governor General of Indochina. The
  yellow beaux-arts palace is now used for official receptions and isn’t open to
  the public, but Ba Dinh Sq in front makes for pleasant (but shadeless)
  wandering. This is where Ho Chi Minh declared independence for Vietnam to a
  crowd of half a million in 1945 and it has been the political heart of the city
  since. Across from the Presidential Palace and mausoleum sits the Vietnam
  National Assembly building. Surrounding this domineering and blocky building
  are a handful of large, graceful buildings, such as the beautifully preserved Bo
  Ngoai Giao (Ministry of Foreign Affairs).
  sergii figurnyi/shutterstock ©
  Botanical Gardens
  WELCOME GREEN SPACE
  French landscape gardeners designed the Botanical Gardens (Vuon
  Bach Thao), which occupies a large plot behind the Presidential Palace,
  in 1890. After the French defeat, the new government opened the park
  to the public and it’s been popular with the athletically inclined
  (badminton players in particular) ever since. The green space is well
  maintained, with meandering trails that weave around centenarian
  trees and frog-filled ponds. There is a tiny entrance fee, which goes
  towards the cost of the park’s upkeep.
  Fine Arts Museum of Vietnam
  HISTORY THROUGH ART
  The excellent Fine Arts Museum is housed in two buildings that were once the
  French Ministry of Information. Treasures abound, including ancient Champa
  stone carvings and some astonishing effigies of Quan Am, the thousand-eyed,
  thousand-armed Goddess of Compassion, worshipped across the Far East. Look
  out for the lacquered statues of Buddhist monks from the Tay Son dynasty and
  the collection of contemporary art and folk-naive paintings. Most pieces have
  English explanations, but guided tours, which are best to prearrange but can
  sometimes be organised at the entrance, are useful.
  Fine Arts Museum of Vietnam | julie mayfeng ©
  ART For You
  A SHOWCASE OF CREATIVITY
  Manzi Art Space and Work Room Four launched ART For You, Vietnam’s only
  affordable art fair, in 2014. The fair has gone from strength to strength,
  surviving paranoid local authorities, obstructive landlords and a distressing
  pandemic. The original purpose was to showcase the work and talent of
  Vietnam’s burgeoning creative community, though these days you can also find
  work from more established contemporary artists. Pieces are priced from US$25
  to US$900. The fair usually takes place towards the end of the year (check
  manziart.space for dates).
  Imperial Citadel of Thang Long
  A CLUSTER OF PRE-COLONIAL HERITAGE
  Added to Unesco’s World Heritage List in 2010, Hanoi’s Imperial Citadel was
  the hub of Vietnamese military power for over 1000 years. Ongoing
  archaeological digs continue on site, revealing remains of ancient palaces,
  grandiose pavilions and imperial gates. The magnificent main gate (Doan Mon)
  is named after one of the gates of the Forbidden City in Beijing. Further back is
  the imposing and colonnaded French Caserne de la Compagnie d’Ouvriers. At
  the rear is the Princess Pagoda (Hau Lau), which probably housed imperial
  concubines. There are also fascinating military command bunkers from the
  American War – complete with maps and 1960s communications equipment –
  used by the legendary Vietnamese general Vo Nguyen Giap. At the citadel’s
  southern edge is the hexagonal flag tower, another Hanoi landmark and
  emblem.
  Imperial Citadel of Thang Long | khong katesorn/shutterstock ©
  BEST SHOPPING IN BA DINH
  Manzi
  Contemporary art shop and cafe that stocks quality mementos and organises regular
  exhibitions and events in the evenings. A co-organiser of ART For You, Vietnam’s only
  affordable art fair.
  Bookworm
  Hanoi’s only independent English-language bookshop. There’s a useful section devoted to
  quality Vietnamese literature translated into English.
  Craft Link
  Dizzying array of crafts from Vietnam’s various ethnicities with a focus on the country’s
  northern groups. It’s close to the Temple of Literature.
  Temple of Literature
  AN ANCIENT UNIVERSITY
  A rare example of well-preserved traditional Vietnamese architecture, the
  Temple of Literature (Van Mieu) honours Vietnam’s finest scholars. Founded in
  1070 by Emperor Le Thanh Tong, the attractive complex is dedicated to the
  Qufu-born philosopher Confucius (Khong Tu) and was the site of Vietnam’s
  first university, Quoc Tu Giam (1076). The altars are popular with students
  praying for good grades, while the halls, ponds and gardens of the five
  courtyards make picturesque backdrops for graduation photos. It is depicted on
  the 100,000d note. Originally, university admission was exclusively for those
  born of noble families, but after 1442 it became more egalitarian. Gifted
  students from all over the nation headed to Hanoi to study the principles of
  Confucianism, literature and poetry. In 1484 Emperor Le Thanh Tong ordered
  that stelae be erected to record the names, places of birth and achievements of
  exceptional scholars: 82 of 116 stelae remain standing, mostly atop turtle
  statues. Paths lead from the imposing tiered gateway on P Quoc Tu Giam
  through formal gardens to the Khue Van Pavilion, constructed in 1802.
  Temple of Literature | naytoong /shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO EAT IN BA DINH
  Pho Huyen
  Popular with locals, Huyen serves reliably good pho ga (chicken noodle soup) all day. $
  Quan Cu
  A picture menu makes for hassle-free ordering at Quan Cu restaurant. $$
  Grill 63
  On the 63rd floor of the Lotte Center, Grill 63 serves up food and views. $$$
  MORE IN WESTERN HANOI
  Museum of Ethnology
  ESPECIALLY WORTHWHILE IF TRAVELLING NORTH
  The Vietnam Museum of Ethnology, one of Vietnam’s standout museums, is
  just outside of Ba Dinh in the west of the city. The museum houses an
  extraordinary collection relating to Vietnam’s 54 officially recognised ethnic
  groups, including well-presented tribal art, artefacts and everyday objects
  gathered from across the nation. The interiors, spread over two floors, are
  organised by geography and ethnicity, making it easier to get to grips with the
  clothing, attire, architecture and customs of the different groups. Virtually every
  corner of the museum is of interest, but the women’s clothing is notably striking
  and the elaborate funeral customs are fascinating.
  A highlight of the museum is the garden, which deserves just as much time
  and attention as the indoor displays. More than a handful of ethnic groups from
  across Vietnam were invited to build structures that best represent their
  traditional architecture, so expect houses, communal halls and graves poking
  out from behind the trees.
  BEST LAKES IN DONG DA
  Ho Dong Da
  The new elevated metro flies over Dong Da Lake, giving the body of water a somewhat
  futuristic aesthetic. Encircled by good, family-style restaurants.
  Ho Xa Dan
  Diamond-shaped lake with a pedestrianised northeastern edge lined with cafes, juice bars
  and ice cream.
  Ho Ba Mau
  Nearby Can-tin Caphe gives a sense of how pre-capitalist Hanoi might have been.
  Ho Van Chuong
  Oval-shaped lake with a couple of grill and bia hoi joints. You’re likely to be the only
  foreigner there.
  Destination Dong Da
  A MICROCOSM OF LOCAL LIFE
  Most visitors venture into Dong Da for only one reason: to visit the Temple of
  Literature. This leaves the rest of the district, with its labyrinthine
  neighbourhoods, sprightly lakes, notable culture hubs, important religious
  compounds and myriad restaurants free of tourists.
  The lakes (see right) often form the central point of these neighbourhoods, as
  this is where cafes, bars, restaurants and other gathering spots tend to be. From
  here, residential alleyways and streets fan out in all directions. Two burgeoning
  culture hubs have set up in Dong Da: Ga Phe, which organises illustration
  workshops and has a fantastic contemporary craft shop, and Complex 01, an
  alternative collective with fashion boutiques, home décor ateliers and creative
  agencies.
  Dong Da is also home to one of Hanoi’s most important ancient religious
  sites. Kim Lien Temple Complex (Dinh Kim Lien) in Tay Ho is one of four
  guardian temples that have protected Hanoi from malicious forces for a
  millennium. (The other three are Bach Ma Temple in the Old Quarter, Voi Phuc
  Temple in Ba Dinh and Quan Thanh Temple in Truc Bach.)
  WHERE TO EAT IN DONG DA
  P Ly Van Phuc
  This street splits opinion, with grilled chicken, cheap beer and questionable hygiene. $
  Tam Vi
  Northern cuisine done really well in atmospheric surroundings. $$
  Hẻm quán Hoàng Cầu
  A rare show of southern food, Hem Quan specialises in the sweeter Vietnamese cuisine. $$
  WEST LAKE & TRUC BACH LAKE
  REFUGE IN WATER
  The twin lakes of West Lake and Truc Bach, split by tree-lined P Thanh Nhien,
  straddle two city districts: Tay Ho and Ba Dinh. West Lake, the city’s largest, is
  15km in circumference and ringed by upmarket suburbs, including the
  predominantly expat Quang An area. P Xuan Dieu, which seems forever under
  construction, is Quang An’s central nervous system, and is lined with boutiques,
  bars and apartment buildings.
  Once you get away from the road works, a perennial headache for residents,
  the atmosphere makes a calm change from the chaos of the Old Quarter. The
  Truc Bach neighbourhood, which curves west around Truc Bach Lake, is a
  pleasant low-rise corner of the city with stories to tell. This was once the
  epicentre of Hanoi’s bronze-casting tradition, but the service industry (cafes,
  restaurants and street food) has since taken over. It’s also where the late senator
  and one-time presidential candidate John McCain parachuted to after being shot
  down in 1967.
  HIGHLIGHTS
  1 Truc Bach Lake
  2 West Lake
  SIGHTS
  3 Quan Thanh Temple
  4 Thuy Trung Tien
  5 Tran Quoc Pagoda
  EATING
  6 Kem Tuoi Ho Tay
  7 Ngu Xa
  8 Nha Hang Banh Tom Ho Tay
  DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
  9 Ma Xo Cafe
  TOP TIP
  Quang An and Truc Bach are the parts of the city to retreat to when Hanoi gets too
  overwhelming. It’s easy to while away an entire afternoon strolling the leafy lakeside streets
  while moving from cafe to restaurant to bar.
  Truc Bach Lake
  NEIGHBOURHOOD STROLL
  Like the Old Quarter, Truc Bach Lake is best tackled on foot. But unlike the Old
  Quarter, you’re unlikely to be hassled by motorbike exhausts and souvenir
  venders. Two important religious sights line the shores: Quan Thanh Temple,
  a 1000-year-old temple built to protect Hanoi from malevolent northern forces,
  and Tran Quoc Pagoda, possibly Hanoi’s oldest Buddhist temple and a sight to
  behold on a clear day at sunset. Almost opposite the pagoda is Den Thuy
  Trung Tien (Thuy Trung Tien Temple), a new but pretty temple located on a
  small island.
  Truc Bach also brings a healthy share of Hanoi’s specialty dishes to the table.
  Nha Hang Banh Tom Ho Tay serves up banh tom shrimp cakes while Kem
  Tuoi Ho Tay next door serves egalitarian (i.e. extraordinarily cheap) kem (ice
  cream) that draws students on motorbikes in the evenings. The Ngu Xa area, an
  island that is connected by two short bridges, is famous for pho chien phong
  (stir-fried beef and greens over fried noodle parcels) and pho cuon (fresh spring
  rolls with stir-fried beef); several all-day eateries are found along P Ngu Xa. For
  a modern take on pho cuon, Ma Xo, which also offers coffee, cocktails and
  views to the lake, has substituted beef for pork.
  TAY HO TEMPLE
  Jutting into West Lake, beautiful and serene Tay Ho Temple is perhaps the most popular
  place of worship in Hanoi. Throngs of people come here on the first and 15th day of each
  lunar month in the hope of receiving good fortune from Lieu Hanh, a princess of heaven, to
  whom the temple is dedicated. This intensifies during the month immediately after Tet,
  when cars sit bumper-to-bumper in the surrounding streets. The restaurants outside the
  temple serve banh tom, a specialty of the area.
  West Lake
  EXPAT ENCLAVE
  The legend of West Lake rivals that of Hoan Kiem Lake in mystical drama,
  though perhaps not in celebrity. The story goes that a colossal mythical golden
  calf from the north was tempted south by the seductive chimes of a monk’s
  bronze bell. Once the calf reached the spot where West Lake now sits, the
  chimes stopped and the beast became disorientated. Far from its mother and
  unable to return home, the panic-ridden calf furiously walked in circles until the
  West Lake basin was formed. Water from the nearby Red River eventually filled
  the concavity, submerging and trapping the calf for good.
  Peering at West Lake’s luxury apartment blocks, restaurants and cafes, it’s
  hard to imagine that the area is steeped in history: these calm shores once
  supported fishing communities, flower markets and incense-making villages.
  Still, what West Lake has become is not unpleasant. P To Ngoc Van and
  around, with its vibrant international food scene, is an attractive expat enclave.
  P Trinh Con Son is pedestrianised on weekend evenings, creating a childfriendly
  atmosphere. The streets running along the lake’s western shore sport
  seafood restaurants and cool cafés.
  jimmy tran/shutterstock ©
  AROUND HANOI
  SEASCAPES, MOUNTAINS, VILLAGES AND TEMPLES
  The region around Hanoi abounds in opportunities to flee the increasingly
  polluted city air. Halong Bay is by far the most popular day or multiday trip
  from Hanoi, and with good reason. Here, jungle-topped karst mountains rise
  from calm waters to craft ideal cruise conditions year-round. The nearby
  national parks of Tam Dao and Ba Vi offer trekking, fresh air, rare plant life and
  occasional animal-spotting. Both are at altitude and offer noticeably cooler
  temperatures than the capital.
  Hanoi’s history spans over a thousand years, evidenced by the wealth of
  culture that surrounds it. The city is within reach of various ancient craft hubs,
  such as the pottery village of Bat Trang, an interesting half-day excursion.
  Another half day can be spent exploring Co Loa, the oldest and most enticing of
  northern Vietnam’s antique walled citadels. Several important and venerated
  Buddhist pagodas, including Chua Thay and Chua Tay Phuong, will need a full
  day.
  TOP TIP
  Most trips from Hanoi can be arranged last minute, so it’s perfectly possible to arrive and then
  decide what you feel like doing. Halong Bay is the notable exception; while there are always
  cruises available, the most popular companies can book out. It’s best to book these at least a
  few days in advance.
  Halong Bay
  KEEPER OF THE CROWN JEWELS
  Designated a World Heritage Site in 1994, Halong Bay’s scatter of almost 2000
  limestone islands, rising from the emerald waters of the Gulf of Tonkin and
  dotted with wind- and wave-eroded grottoes, is a vision of ethereal beauty.
  Unsurprisingly, a Halong Bay cruise has long been an essential element of a trip
  to northern Vietnam.
  Halong Bay | nguyen quang ngoc tonkin/shutterstock ©
  THE LEGEND
  Halong (or Ha Long) translates as ‘descending dragon’, and legend tells that this mystical
  seascape was created when a great mountain dragon charged towards the coast, its
  flailing tail gouging out valleys and crevasses. As the creature plunged into the sea, the
  area filled with water, leaving only the pinnacles visible. The geological explanation of karst
  erosion may be more prosaic, but doesn’t make this seascape any less poetic.
  MORE IN HALONG BAY
  When to Go
  AN ALL-YEAR DESTINATION
  Halong Bay attracts visitors year-round, with peak season for Vietnamese
  tourists between late May and early August. January to March is often cool and
  drizzly, and the ensuing fog can make visibility poor, but adds bags of eerie
  atmosphere. May to September can be beautiful, but the occasional tropical
  storm means tourist boats sometimes need to alter their itineraries or cancel
  cruises. October and November see sunny blue-sky days, a lack of crowds and
  cooler temperatures.
  BAI TU LONG BAY
  Before the Covid-19 pandemic, cruise companies like Indochina Junk focused on Bai Tu
  Long Bay’s southernmost islands and islets, pedalling them as a quieter alternative to
  Halong Bay. After Vietnam’s borders opened, Halong Bay quickly prepared to welcome
  international tourists once more, but Bai Tu Long Bay lagged behind. At the time of
  research, Indochina Junk was just about up and running again.
  Cruising
  While it’s possible to get to Halong City and arrange cruises from there, most
  visitors opt for cruise tours from Hanoi that include sleeping on board. A lot of
  independent travellers eschew Halong Bay completely, heading straight for Cat
  Ba Island to see lesser visited but equally alluring Lan Ha Bay. Most cruises
  and day-tripper boats include at least one cave and an island stop-off.
  Caves
  Popular caves to visit include Hang Trong (Drum Grotto), Hang Thien Cung
  and the three-chambered Hang Sung Sot (Surprise Cave). The huge 25m-tall
  Hang Dau Go (Cave of Wooden Stakes) derives its name from the role it
  played during 13th-century battles with the Mongolians when locals stored
  wooden stakes, used to destroy invading ships, in its third chamber.
  Islands
  The most popular island stop-off is Titov Island, named after Russian
  cosmonaut Gherman Titov, with panoramic views from the isle’s tallest central
  point. Soi Sim Island’s viewpoint is less impressive but the beach, which sits
  snugly in a miniature bay, is more attractive. Time spent on the islands is
  usually brief, so keep that in mind if you want to swim.
  Other Activities
  In addition to caves and islands, longer cruises will usually include a visit to a
  floating village; Cua Van and Vung Vieng are the most popular. It’s unclear
  how long these villages have been here as evidence erodes quickly, but cruise
  guides claim that they have existed in some form for a millennium. Another
  activity thrust upon cruise goers is a visit to a pearl farm; don’t feel obligated to
  make a purchase. Many cruises also pass the ‘Fighting Cocks’, a pair of islets
  that are said to resemble feuding fowl and the symbol of Halong Bay.
  Kayaking was also possible at the time of research (always for an extra fee),
  though the authorities have banned it in the past on safety grounds, much to the
  dismay of cruise companies and tourists.
  CRUISE TIPS
  There are hundreds of cruise companies, so choose wisely.
  Check itineraries carefully before booking a cruise as activities can vary. Look at what’s
  included in the package so that additional entrance or transfer fees don’t come as a
  surprise. Paradise Cruise, Ambassador Cruise, Au Co and Heritage Line are good
  higher-end options. Bhaya Cruises is a more economical option with a huge fleet and
  range of products. Some of the cheapest cruises use old boats and flout environmental
  regulations.
  Tam Dao Hill Station
  THE CLOSER MOUNTAIN
  Nestling below soaring forest-clad peaks, Tam Dao is a former French hill
  station in a spectacular setting about 1½ hours northwest of Hanoi by road.
  Today it’s a popular summer resort – a favoured weekend escape for Hanoians,
  who come here to revel in the temperate climate and make merry in the
  extensive selection of restaurants and bars. Founded in 1907 by the French,
  most of its colonial villas were destroyed during the Franco–Viet Minh War,
  only to be replaced with brutalist concrete architecture. Tam Dao is a useful
  base for hiking, but the town itself is an unattractive sprawl of hotel blocks. Get
  there by rented motorbike, private car or a tour organised from Hanoi. Visit on a
  weekday to avoid crowds.
  Bat Trang Craft Village
  THE CLOSEST CRAFT VILLAGE
  Bat Trang craft village, less than 30 minutes from Hanoi by car, has been
  producing quality pottery and ceramics for centuries. Much of the village’s
  charm has been lost since its successful pivot to mass production for major
  international buyers, such as Britain’s John Lewis. But at the village’s core still
  lies a compact network of interesting residential alleyways connecting the
  market area, which has excellent bargains, with the river. The Bat Trang
  Museum, housed in a bold contemporary building that took inspiration from the
  village’s heritage, is also worth an hour.
  hoang hao hiep/shutterstock ©
  Ba Vi National Park
  THE BETTER MOUNTAIN
  Further than Tam Dao but worth the extra effort, Ba Vi National Park was also a
  French hill station so expect cooler temperatures than Hanoi. Ba Vi is notably
  less built up than Tam Dao, and much of the mountain, which has three jagged
  peaks that can be seen clearly on a cloudless day (rare), still maintains a
  somewhat rugged and moody demeanour. Highlights include an abandoned and
  eerie colonial church that is slowly being absorbed by the jungle, and a handful
  of hiking trails that meander through the jungle. Ba Vi National Park is almost
  two hours from Hanoi, so consider an overnight stay; the Melia is a safe bet.
  Unfortunately, the national park isn’t served by public transport.
  The Old Church, Ba Vi National Park | tuleyhcm/shutterstock ©
  Thanh Chuong Palace
  OPEN-AIR MUSEUM
  Thanh Chuong, one of Hanoi’s most financially successful contemporary artists,
  began salvaging Vietnamese artefacts during the war, and after amassing a
  collection that numbered in the thousands, he needed somewhere to put them.
  So, he built Viet Phu Thanh Chuong (Thanh Chuong Palace; pictured below), a
  gigantic garden with several structures inspired by traditional Vietnamese
  architecture. Each one is filled with paintings, statues, sculptures, furniture and
  other treasures from across the country. The palace is 30km north of Hanoi, best
  reached by motorbike or car, and costs 100,000đ to enter.
  Co Loa Citadel
  ANCIENT FORTIFICATION
  Located 16km north of Hanoi’s Old Quarter and dating from the 3rd century
  BCE, Co Loa Citadel was the first fortified citadel in Vietnamese history and
  became the national capital during the reign of Ngo Quyen (939–44 CE). Only
  vestiges of the ancient ramparts, which enclosed an area of about 5 sq km,
  remain. In the centre of the citadel are temples dedicated to the rule of King An
  Duong Vuong (257–208 BCE) and his daughter My Nuong (Mi Chau). Co Loa
  is best reached by motorbike, private car or, weather permitting, bicycle.
  Co Loa Citadel | tuleyhcm/shutterstock ©
  Chua Tay Phuong & Chua Thay
  SIGNIFICANT PAGODAS
  These pagodas, 20 minutes apart from each other by road, are about 30km west
  of Hanoi and can be visited in a day by car or motorbike. Tay Phuong Pagoda
  consists of three single-level structures built in descending order on a hillock.
  ‘The conditions of man’ are the pagoda’s most celebrated feature – carved from
  jackfruit wood, many date from the 18th century. The earliest construction dates
  from the 8th century. Thay Pagoda is dedicated to Thich Ca Buddha
  (Sakyamuni, the historical Buddha). To the left of the main altar is a statue of
  the 12th-century monk Tu Dao Hanh, the master in whose honour the pagoda is
  named (thay means ‘master’). Thay Pagoda is a big and confusing complex for
  non-Buddhists – consider hiring a guide to make the very best of your visit.
  igor v. podkopaev/shutterstock ©
  NORTHERN VIETNAM
  EPIC LANDSCAPES, ICONIC SEASCAPES
  Northern Vietnam entices vista-hunting hikers, traditional market
  enthusiasts, sea-kayaking aficionados, daredevil motorcyclists and war
  history buffs.
  Rice fields, Cao Bang | nguyen quang ngoc tonkin/shutterstock ©
  The north is home to Vietnam’s largest landscapes: a place of rippling
  mountains, cascading rice terraces and the surreal karst topography for which
  the region is famed. Halong Bay’s limestone towers are an iconic view, but
  these seascapes extend onto Cat Ba Island and into Lan Ha Bay. The karst
  connection also continues inland, to Ba Be’s sprawling lake, Cao Bang’s remote
  valleys and the dramatic gorges and peaks of Ha Giang
  Further west, rugged hiking trails and scenic bicycle routes crisscross the
  tourism darlings of Sapa and Mai Chau, offering adventure lite for first-time
  travellers. Further west, Dien Bien Phu was where Vietnam’s independence was
  won and is thus a prominent destination for those interested in war history, as
  well as the gateway to roads barely ever travelled.
  While the secret’s out that northern Vietnam holds some of Asia’s most
  legendary natural beauty, undiscovered corners, like Mu Cang Chai and Pu
  Luong, still sit shielded behind precarious mountain passes and nestled in
  luscious valleys. In this heartland of ethnic-minority culture, Muong stilt houses
  and Hmong thatched rooves snuggle neatly between a patch-work of paddyfields.
  Inspired Thai waterwheels and spirited Tay fishers actively contribute motion
  to the vistas while the scarlet headdresses of the Dzao people and kaleidoscopic
  skirts of the Lolo add dizzying colour to fabulous highland markets.
  junphoto/shutterstock ©
  THE MAIN AREAS
  CAT BA ISLAND & LAN HA BAY
  The ultimate Halong Bay alternative.
  SAPA
  Hiking trails and vibrant villages.
  MAI CHAU
  Scenic cycling and lovely lodges.
  HA GIANG
  Unsurpassed motorbiking.
  BAC HA
  Markets. And then more markets.
  BA BE NATIONAL PARK
  Lakeside lodgings and activities.
  MU CANG CHAI
  Cascading rice terraces.
  DIEN BIEN PHU
  War history and real adventure.
  Find Your Way
  Northern Vietnam is probably the country’s most geographically diverse
  territory. The mountainous interior, which brushes China and Laos,
  dominates the region, but the coastal areas also loom large for visitors.
  Moving between destinations often involves transit in Hanoi.
  Plan Your Days
  Don’t try to see everything. Instead, pick the mountain destinations that
  suit your availability and offer the activities you most enjoy. Cat Ba is a
  Halong Bay alternative for independent travellers.
  Cat Ba island | dillon ward/shutterstock ©
  For First-Time Travellers
  Morning
• If comfort and convenience trump action and adventure, or if you only have a couple of
  days, look into Sapa or Mai Chau. Sapa offers all manner of accommodation, including
  luxury ecolodges, five-star hotels, affordable guesthouses and welcoming homestays. It
  also has Vietnam’s most extensive network of hiking trails.
  Evening
• Mai Chau is a relatively short trip from Hanoi, and it’s also the jumping-off point for Pu
  Luong and Moc Chau. These are destinations with idyllic mountain lodges, pretty bike
  riding and fabulous food. If you’re short on time but want to avoid crowds, there’s Ba Be
  National Park.
  For Adventurous Travellers
• If you crave adventure and have at least four days, head to Ha Giang, Mu Cang Chai or
  the remoter corners of Dien Bien Phu, all of which take the better part of a day to get to
  from Hanoi.
• You need to be comfortable on a motorbike – either driving one or as a passenger – to
  get the most out of these destinations. Beyond a Ha Giang road trip, there are countryside
  activities in Hoang Su Phi and a magnificent waterfall in Cao Bang.
  For Special Interest Travellers
  Morning
• If you have a love of ethnic markets, you can’t miss Bac Ha. You’ll need at least a
  weekend to do the town justice. On Saturday morning, escape to Can Cau Market deep in
  the countryside. On Sunday morning, stay in town for Bac Ha’s own market. Hike or
  motorbike in the afternoons.
  Afternoon
• To better understand Vietnam’s tumultuous and complicated war history, visit Dien
  Bien Phu. You’ll need two days to see all the war sights.
  Evening
• For hiking, climbing, kayaking and other active and adventure activities, spend a couple
  of days on Cat Ba Island.
  Seasonal Highlights
  Spring sees pretty flowers and drizzle. Summer is hot and stormy.
  Autumn is cool and dry. Winter can be startlingly cold.
  JANUARY
  The countryside population multiplies during Lunar New Year (January
  or February). Look for village games around Sapa.
  vn stock/shutterstock ©
  MARCH
  Fog descends, reducing visibility. But the terraces, like those in Hoang
  Su Phi, fill up with water to beautiful effect.
  sing studio/shutterstock ©
  APRIL
  The final month of the flower season before the typhoons begin. Mai
  Chau and Moc Chau are especially pretty.
  vietnam colours/shutterstock ©
  JUNE
  Very hot and sometimes stormy. But the terraces bulge with green,
  ripening rice. Pu Luong is dazzling.
  quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock ©
  SEPTEMBER
  Harvest season, when the rice terraces turn golden-yellow. Nowhere is
  this more striking than in Mu Cang Chai.
  guitar photographer/shutterstock ©
  OCTOBER
  The storms usually stop by October, ushering in cooler days. The best
  month to visit Ha Giang and Cat Ba.
  jimmy tran/shutterstock©
  DECEMBER
  The only chance to see snow is at the turn of the year. It only falls – if it
  falls at all – in Sapa, Ha Giang and Lang Son.
  thi/shutterstock ©
  CAT BA ISLAND & LAN HA BAY
  Rugged, craggy and jungle-clad Cat Ba, the largest island in the Gulf of Tonkin,
  is a popular destination for both domestic and independent travellers. The
  central hub of Cat Ba Town is now framed by a wall of hotels along its oncelovely
  bay, and resorts dominate beaches nearby, but the rest of the island is
  largely untouched and as wild as ever. Almost half of Cat Ba Island (with a total
  area of 354 sq km) and 90 sq km of the adjacent waters were declared a national
  park in 1986 to protect the island’s diverse ecosystems.
  Cat Ba is the single best place to sign up for climbing, kayaking and hiking
  trips, some of which take place in idyllic Lan Ha Bay, just offshore. As a
  cruising destination Lan Ha Bay is almost indistinguishable from Halong Bay,
  its more celebrated sibling, and several cruise companies take advantage of its
  quieter waters.
  TOP TIP
  Cat Ba packs out with domestic tourists in the summer, when hotels hike up their prices and
  transfers from Hanoi can be chaotic and frustrating. This leaves October and November, when
  Cat Ba sees its best weather – an ideal time to visit.
  Into the Interior
  CAVES, JUNGLES AND VIEWPOINTS AWAIT
  First impressions of Cat Ba Town are not great, but the commercial strip only
  extends for a street or two behind the promenade. The Bieu Tuong Dao Cat Ba
  (Cat Ba Monument; off Ɖ Nui Ngoc) stands upon the hillock opposite the pier
  in Cat Ba Town – it’s a good place to get your bearings after arriving on the
  island. The market is located at the northern end of the harbour and is at its most
  vibrant first thing in the morning. To explore the island’s real areas of interest,
  however, rent a motorbike or taxi and head out of town.
  Hospital Cave, 10km north of town, served both as a secret bombproof
  hospital and as a safe house for Viet Cong (VC) leaders during the American
  War. Built between 1963 and 1965, this incredibly well-constructed, threestorey
  feat of engineering was in constant use until 1975. The cave spans 17
  rooms, including an old operating theatre (complete with patient mannequins)
  and a huge natural cavern that was used as a cinema (and even had its own
  small swimming pool). The multi-chambered Trung Trang Cave, 2km further
  north within Cat Ba National Park, is fun for a quick poke around.
  For one of the best sunsets in Cat Ba, get back to town and head to Cannon
  Fort, where there are astounding panoramas of the island’s jungle-clad hills, the
  harbour and the karst-punctuated sea. If you choose to walk, the entrance gate is
  a steep 10-minute climb from town, and it’s then another sweaty 20-minute
  clamber to the fort.
  Cat Ba langurs | charlie zhong/shutterstock ©
  I LIVE HERE: SAVING THE CAT BA LANGUR
  Le Manh Kien, co-owner of Cat Ba Ecolodge.
  The Cat Ba Langur Conservation Project is a non-profit organisation that aims to save the
  Cat Ba langur – one of the most endangered primate species in the world. With a
  population of about 78, you’ll only find this type of langur on Cat Ba. What can you do to
  help?
  Cash contributions. Contact the organisation on Facebook (facebook.com/catbalangur)
  to arrange.
  Donate gear. They always need binoculars, field notebooks, bags and GPS units(al
  waterproof). Bring the gear to Cat Ba Ecolodge.
  Buy merch. You’ll find various places around Cat Ba Island selling funky T-shirts and bags.
  WHERE TO STAY IN CAT BA TOWN
  Phuong Mai
  Friendly family hotel with great views, though the glass-fronted rooms can get hot. $
  Luna’s House Hostel
  A backpacker favourite and thus probably the best option for meeting other travellers. $
  Blue Lagoon
  Cute rustic hotel with raised cabins overlooking a lake on the edge of town. $$
  BEST LOCAL SEAFOOD
  Bia Hoi stalls
  For a cheap and cheerful dinner with great views of Cat Ba Town’s harbour, you’ll find
  waterside, open-air bia hoi (draught beer) stalls with food on the northern edge of town. $
  Vien Duong
  One of the most popular seafood spots lining Ð Nui Ngoc, and often heaving with
  Vietnamese tourists diving into local crab, squid and steaming seafood hotpots. $$
  Bien Dong
  Next to Vien Duong and offering similar quality but less choice. Usually calmer and quieter
  than its noisy neighbour. $$
  Hiking in Cat Ba National Park
  SOLO STROLLS AND GUIDED HIKES
  Cat Ba’s beautiful national park is home to 32 species of mammal, including 78
  or so golden-headed langurs, perhaps the world’s most endangered primate (see
  sidebar). Of the other mammals present in the park, the more commonly seen
  include macaques, deer, civets and several species of squirrel, including the
  giant black squirrel. Seventy bird species have been spotted here, including
  hawks, hornbills and cuckoos.
  The roadside park headquarters is 14km north of Cat Ba Town, past the
  hospital and Trung Trang cave, so you’ll need a motorbike or taxi to get there.
  The short (90 minutes or so) but strenuous hike to the top of Ngu Lam Peak
  brings views over the surrounding jungle, and a guide isn’t necessary. The
  challenging 9km hiking trail through the park (starting just north of the park
  entrance) to the village of Viet Hai is best done with a guide, which you can
  organise in Cat Ba Town and sometimes at the park headquarters. From Viet
  Hai you can walk, rent a bicycle or take an electric vehicle for 5km to the pier,
  where taxi boats shuttle back to Ben Beo Harbour near Cat Ba Town. Take
  proper hiking shoes, a raincoat and a generous supply of water. This is not an
  easy walk, and best avoided during the wet season or after rain.
  Trung Trang Cave | kris wiktor/shuttestock ©
  WHERE TO DRINK IN CAT BA TOWN
  Le Pont
  Not to be confused with the one on Ð Nui Ngoc, Le Pont has magnificent sunset views.
  The BigMan
  This bar goes until late most nights, making it probably the most popular nightspot in town.
  Quiri
  Rising star in a quiet corner of town, the watering hole is staffed by fun-loving locals.
  Enjoy the Beaches
  REST THOSE WEARY LIMBS
  The beaches on Cat Ba Island can’t match the beauty of those in central and
  southern Vietnam, but they still make for pleasant places to while away an
  afternoon, especially after a morning climb or hike. A 10-minute walk southeast
  from Cat Ba Town, the three Cat Co Cove beaches are the nearest to where
  you’re likely to be staying.
  Cat Co 3 is the closest, with a small and popular sliver of sand. From there, a
  walking trail cut into the cliff and offering gorgeous sea views winds its way to
  Cat Co 1, dominated by a resort, then onwards to the pretty, white-sand swathe
  of Cat Co 2, probably the most attractive of the three but also overshadowed by
  resorts. You can also follow the road uphill straight to Cat Co 1 and 2. On the
  other side of town, Tung Thu Beach has a nice setting but backs onto a road.
  BEST INTERNATIONAL FOOD
  Casa Bonita
  Winning combination of good service, tasty mains (try the seafood curry or fish in a clay
  pot), lighter options such as the chicken, avocado and mango salad and plenty of
  vegetarian and vegan choices. $$
  My Way
  Surprisingly decent pizza popular with backpackers and holidaying Hanoians. They also
  have pasta, salads and Vietnamese options tailored to international tastes. $$
  Like Coffee
  Cat Ba’s version of a Melbourne brunch spot, Like Coffee has sandwiches, smoothie
  bowls, juices and the like. $$
  Climbing the Karsts
  STRAP ON YOUR CLIMBING SHOES
  If you’ve ever been tempted to climb, Cat Ba Island is a superb place for it –
  the karst cliffs offer exceptional climbing amid stunning scenery. Most climbers
  in Cat Ba are complete novices, but many leave the island completely bitten by
  the bug. The karst limestone here is not too sharp and quite friendly on the
  hands, and as many of the routes are sheltered by natural overhangs that prevent
  the climbable portion of the rock from getting wet, climbing is almost always
  possible, rain or shine. Climbing opportunities are located on walls inland on
  Cat Ba Island or out in beautiful Lan Ha Bay.
  Before the Covid-19 pandemic there were several experienced operators in
  Cat Ba Town, but at the time of research, only Langur’s Adventures was
  offering the high-quality and international safety standards that we’re
  comfortable recommending. Always get in contact (see sidebar) before arriving
  in Cat Ba to see what they have on offer. You’ll be kitted up with a harness and
  climbing shoes, given instruction and taught the fundamentals of top-rope
  climbing and belaying techniques, then given a demonstration. Then it’s over to
  you, with your climbing instructor talking you through each move and
  anchoring you. Most people are able to complete a couple of climbs at Hai Pai
  and Moody Beach, which are both ideal for beginners.
  The vertical cliffs of Halong and Lan Ha Bays are also perfect for deepwater
  soloing, which is basically climbing alone, without ropes or a harness,
  and using the ocean as a waterbed in case you fall. This is only for advanced
  climbers with an experienced local crew, and it’s essential to know the depth of
  water and tidal patterns. It’s customary to finish a solo climb with a controlled
  free fall (or ‘tombstone’) into the sea and a swim back to the shore or your boat.
  Lan Ha Bay | tran qui thinh/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY OUTSIDE OF CAT BA TOWN
  Woodstock Jungle Camp
  Old-school hippy backpacker crash pad with some dirt under its fingernails. $
  Cat Ba Ecolodge
  Ringed by karsts and with stilt houses and Scandi cabins, it feels like a mountain lodge. $$
  Hotel Perle d’Orient – MGallery
  The most luxurious, reliable and pricey option on the island occupies its own beach. $$$
  BANH DA
  Banh da (browned flat noodle soup, usually served with crab) is Hai Phong’s contribution
  to Vietnam’s coalition of noodle soup dishes. As Cat Ba is technically part of Hai Phong, it
  has a fair selection of humble eateries serving this hearty soup, usually for breakfast.
  Along with minced crab, banh da can come with fish cakes, squid cakes, grilled meatballs,
  boiled shrimp, greens and anything else the chef might have lying around. It’s a must-try
  speciality dish of the province, and you’ll find big signs with BANH DA around the market
  and on Ð Nui Ngoc. Fun fact: the noodle isn’t brown because it’s made with brown rice
  flour, but because it’s darkened with sugar.
  WHO TO CRUISE WITH IN LAN HA BAY
  Serenity Cruises
  One of the better budget options and connected with Cat Ba Express.
  Vietnam Insider Travel
  Only a handful of cabins, making for an intimate midrange option, on one- and two-day cruises.
  Orchid Cruises
  Orchid has a small and luxury fleet that can drop you in Cat Ba after the cruise.
  Cruising & Kayaking Lan Ha Bay
  TAKE TO THE WATER
  Boat trips around Lan Ha Bay are offered by nearly every hotel on Cat Ba
  Island. Typical prices start at around US$25/80 for a day/overnight tour that
  takes in some swimming and a visit to an island or two. A two-day trip allows
  you to get to the remoter, less-visited islands and hidden beaches of northern
  Lan Ha Bay.
  Kayaking among the karsts is one of the highlights of Lan Ha Bay and most
  cruises offer an hour’s paddling through limestone grottoes or to a floating
  village. You’re no longer allowed to kayak straight from Ben Beo Harbour, so
  most kayak rentals or tours include a water-taxi shuttle.
  Due to shifting, strong currents, more intrepid exploring is best done with a
  guide and organised in advance, particularly if you’re not an experienced
  kayaker.
  Lan Ha Bay | hannah stanbury/shutterstock ©
  BEST TOUR COMPANIES ON CAT BA
  While Cat Ba slowly wakes from the deep sleep imposed on it by the COVID-19 pandemic,
  there are only two tour companies that we can currently recommend. However, as the
  island reclaims its status as a backpacker hub, more will surely open.
  Vietnam Insider Travel
  Connected with Cat Ba Ecolodge, Vietnam Insider Travel focuses on getting away from the
  crowds with off-the-beaten track kayaking, fishing, hiking and cruising activities.
  Langur’s Adventure
  Superb professional outfit that specialises in rock climbing and deep-water soloing, but
  also offers trekking and kayaking tours. Always contact them before getting to the island.
  GETTING AROUND
  These days the vast majority of travellers get to Cat Ba from Hanoi with a direct transfer
  company like Cat Ba Express or Good Morning Cat Ba (3½ hours). A more romantic option
  is to get the train to Hai Phong (three hours), spend some time in the city, and then get a
  boat to Cat Ba (one hour) from Binh Pier. If coming from Halong Bay, there is a littleknown
  daily ferry (50 minutes) from Tuan Chau Island, 30 minutes from Halong City, to
  Gia Luan Port in northern Cat Ba with a connecting bus (45 minutes) to Cat Ba Town.
  Beyond Cat Ba Island & Lan Ha Bay
  Hai Phong’s sedate city centre gives a sense of what central Hanoi
  might have been like decades past.
  Cat Ba Island and Lan Ha Bay sit within Hai Phong province, one of northern
  Vietnam’s smallest. At the province’s centre is Hai Phong City, an unexpectedly
  attractive place once you get past the industrial and suburban sprawl that
  envelops it. The central grid system, laid down by the French over a century
  ago, is packed with smart restaurants, trendy cafes and tasty street food, though
  apart from the coffee and food culture, there’s not a lot to actually do. But if you
  do decide to linger, you’ll find an enjoyable, walkable city with a handful of
  notable buildings and minimal hassles that makes for a relaxing change from
  Vietnam’s main tourism hubs.
  Hai Phong Opera House | huntergol hp/shutterstock ©
  TOP TIP
  Get the train to Hai Phong from Hanoi. It passes over the iconic Long Bien Bridge before
  arriving at the attractive city train station.
  Old Hai Phong
  SEE THE CITY BY FOOT
  In contrast to the city’s industrial periphery, Hai Phong’s walkable city centre
  has a distinctly laid-back air, with tree-lined boulevards, a bundle of colonialera
  buildings and quiet cafes where tables spill onto the pavements. If arriving
  by train, head from the Hai Phong Station to the Hai Phong Museum, about
  10 minutes north. In a splendid colonial building, this small museum
  concentrates on the city’s history, with English translations on displays. The
  front hall’s taxidermy collection is creepy, as always, but there are interesting
  finds from the Trang Kenh and Viet Khe Tombs archaeological sites and some
  beautiful ceramic pieces. The museum’s garden also harbours a diverse
  collection of war detritus.
  Hai Phong’s elegant Cathedral of the Diocese is a short walk east of the
  museum and was built in the 19th century but comprehensively restored in

1. The building’s grey towers are a local landmark, though the interior is
   rather plain. Two blocks south of the cathedral and with a facade embellished
   with white columns, Hai Phong’s neoclassical Opera House dates from 1904.
   It’s usually not possible to view the interior, but arrive in the late afternoon and
   you can watch the locals who dress up and pose for photos out front. From the
   front of the Opera House you’ll spot several tempting cafes and bars.
   Cau Tre Canal, Hai Phong | huntergol hp/shutterstock ©
   BEST PLACES TO EAT IN HAI PHONG
   Banh Da Da Lieu
   Serves up banh da cua (flat browned noodles with crab), Hai Phong’s signature dish, in the
   evenings with views of the Opera House. $
   Dinh Tien Hoang Street
   The street has a handful of small stalls selling another Hai Phong speciality: banh my cay
   (stick-thin baguettes with pâté and chilli sauce). $
   Nam Giao
   Hai Phong’s most atmospheric dining choice with a colourful clutter of Asian art and
   antiques. A well-executed menu includes succulent caramelised pork belly cooked in a
   clay pot. $$
   GETTING AROUND
   Hai Phong is accessible by bus and private car (both two hours) or train (three hours). It’s
   easy to get around the city centre by foot, including to Binh Pier, from where you can get
   boats to Cat Ba (one hour). But if you have heavy luggage, flag down a taxi.
   SAPA
   Established as a hill station by the French in 1922, Sapa today is the major
   tourism centre of the northern mountains. The town is oriented to make the
   most of the spectacular views emerging on clear days – it overlooks a plunging
   valley, with mountains towering above on all sides. However, if you were
   expecting a quaint alpine town, recalibrate your expectations. Sapa’s charm was
   bulldozed long ago, only to be replaced with neon-fronted karaoke bars, raucous
   hotpot restaurants and streets clogged with guesthouses. But you’re not here to
   see the town. Sapa is northern Vietnam’s premier hiking base, from where
   walkers wind through the surrounding countryside of cascading rice terraces
   and ethnic minority villages. Rough roads, ugly development and overtourism
   have blighted many parts of the countryside in Sapa District, but if you look
   hard enough there are still some sublime corners of traditional village
   architecture framed by terraced fields. This is the Sapa you’ve come to see.
   HIGHLIGHTS
   1 D Phan Xi Pang
   2 Sapa Church
   3 Sapa Museum
   EATING
   4 A Phu
   5 Cho Tinh Quan
   6 Dung Long
   7 Little Sapa
   8 Nha Hang 68
   9 Nha Hang Ca Hoi Vua
   10 Thong Dong Vegan
   SHOPPING
   11 Indigo Cat
   12 Wild Orchid Handicrafts
   TOP TIP
   Despite its celebrity, Sapa is not a must-see destination. The main reason to come to the town
   is the wealth of opportunities to leave it; nowhere in Vietnam has a larger network of hiking
   trails. But the beauty of northern Vietnam – the mountains, valleys, rivers and villages – exists
   elsewhere in the region (and this chapter).
   SAPA’S BEST TOUR COMPANIES
   ETHOS – Spirit of the Community
   Superb ethical tour company founded by Phil and Hoa Hoolihan, who have a wealth of
   local knowledge. They specialise in having authentic experiences in more remote villages.
   Sapa Sisters
   Run by a group of savvy and knowledgeable Hmong women, Sapa Sisters offers
   customised private day hikes and longer village homestay treks.
   Nomad Trails
   Reliable locally-run option that will tailor your hike for you. It also has French-speaking
   guides.
   Explore In & Around Sapa Town
   IT AIN’T ALL BAD
   Sapa’s real delights lie deep in the countryside, but there are a few things to do
   in and around town. Sapa Museum makes a valiant effort at showcasing the
   history and ethnology of the Sapa area, including the French colonial era. Dusty
   exhibitions overview the various ethnic groups around Sapa, with information
   on the region’s rich handicrafts, so it’s worth a quick visit when you first arrive
   in town, especially if you missed the ethnology museum in Hanoi. Sapa’s small
   stone church was built by the French and is still a central landmark; it opens for
   Mass on Sunday and on certain evenings for prayers. If you’re looking for a
   place to stroll, consider looping the town’s central lake or walking down Đ Phan
   Xi Pang, which has fine views once you get past the row of guesthouses.
   A popular half-day trip from town is a visit to Thac Bac (Silver Waterfall),
   which is a 25-minute ride by taxi or motorbike from town. The cascade is
   beautiful, but the viewing platforms won’t be to everyone’s taste. For a wilder
   waterfall, go the extra mile (it is literally a mile away) to Thac Tinh Yeu (Love
   Waterfall). A trail cuts through the jungle to the waterfall from the visitor
   centre. If you’re on a bike you may wish to continue the journey across the
   Tram Ton Pass as the road is stunning.
   TOPAS ECOLODGE
   Overlooking a dramatic valley 18km from Sapa, Topas Ecolodge is one of Vietnam’s best
   rural resorts, with stone-and-thatch bungalows replete with balconies to make the most of
   the truly breath-taking views. Excellent hiking, cycling and market tours.
   WHERE TO GRAB A DRINK IN SAPA
   Fansipan Terrace
   The Fansipan terrace is on the edge of town, so has one of the best mountain-facing views.
   Color
   Owned by an artist, this atmospheric thatched hut has reggae, table football and shisha.
   Hmong Sisters
   With liquor sold by the bottle, this is the place for serious late-night drinking.
   Shop Locally in Sapa
   EXCELLENT QUALITY AND VARIETY
   You can comment on the unattractiveness of Sapa Town all you like, but don’t
   say that it isn’t a good place to part with your cash. Many minority women and
   girls have gone into the souvenir business, and Sapa’s streets are packed with
   people selling handicrafts. The older women in particular are canny traders and
   are known for their strong-arm selling tactics. When negotiating prices, hold
   your ground, but avoid aggressive bargaining.
   Indigo Cat is a Hmong-owned, family-run handicrafts shop offering a
   wonderful selection of interesting local crafts, including bags, clothing, cushion
   covers and jewellery. Many items have hip design touches unique to the store
   and the set-price labels are a relief if you have haggling fatigue. Wild Orchid
   Handicrafts offers a similar kind of shopping experience.
   Turfed out of central Sapa and now in a purpose-built modern building near
   the bus station, Sapa Market is still interesting, and hill tribe people from
   surrounding villages come here most days to sell handicrafts. The best stuff is
   upstairs and towards the back and the best day is Sunday.
   Note that on some cheaper textiles, the dyes used are not set, which can turn
   anything the material touches (including your skin) a muddy blue-green colour.
   Wash the fabric separately in cold salted water to stop the dye from running,
   and wrap items in plastic bags before packing them in your luggage.
   Hmong women, Sapa | martinho smart/shutterstock ©
   I LIVE HERE: CELEBRATING TET
   Ly Thi Cha, youth ambassador at ethical tour company ETHOS, shares
   recommendations on festivals around Sapa. @ethosspiritsapa
   After the national Tet celebrations, villages around Sapa host their own festivals, and
   people travel from surrounding villages to take part. We play tug-of-war, climb greased
   bamboo poles and run cross-country races on stilts. My favourite event is a blindfolded
   ‘catch the goat’ game in a small fenced-off circle. Those watching shout instructions, and
   the first to catch the animal wins a prize. We Hmong take pride in wearing our newly made
   traditional clothes, embroidered especially for these events. We put a great deal of effort
   into producing indigo-dyed, organic hemp clothes intricately embroidered with silk.
   WHERE TO STAY WITH A VIEW
   Fansipan Terrace
   One of the best value room-with-a-view options due to its location a little out of town. $
   Cat Cat View
   Sprawling but reliable midrange hotel with great views and terraces. $$
   Silk Path Grand
   Perched on a hill high above the centre, the Silk Path offers luxury with great views. $$$
   Eating Vietnamese Cuisine around Town
   FISH, FROG, PORK AND VEGAN
   Sapa is an enormously popular destination for domestic tourists, which has led
   to an explosion of restaurants that appeal to Vietnamese visitors. These tend to
   be very casual, with big menus and tables to cater to large groups. Service is
   more quick and efficient than warm and welcoming. It is common for
   restaurants to have a meat or fish ‘theme’, though other dishes always exist on
   the menu.
   For pork done every way you can imagine, including grilled, boiled, spitroasted
   and pan-fried, head to Dung Long. A tasty version of fried purple
   sticky rice (com lam tim chien) is also served up here. If you enjoy eating things
   that you’re unlikely to find at home, try the frog hotpot (lau ech) at Nha Hang
2. For fish, somewhat of a speciality in Sapa due to all the fish farms that mar
   the countryside, try the rustic Cho Tinh Quan, raucous A Phu or the aptly
   named Nha Hang Ca Hoi Vua (Salmon King).
   If these restaurants are a little too rowdy, there are some quieter Vietnamese
   options. For vegan food, increasingly popular with health-conscious city folk,
   try Thong Dong Vegan. For more standard Vietnamese food done well, head to
   Little Sapa, though note that it can get very crowded in the evenings.
   THA FANSIPAN CABLE CAR
   Fansipan’s wild, lonesome beauty has been somewhat shattered with the opening of a
   6292m-long cable car, taking people across the Muong Hoa Valley and up to near the
   summit in 15 minutes. Buy tickets at the ticket office (Phan Xi Pang, Sun Plaza) in Sapa’s
   main square, from where a funicular train shuttles passengers to the lower cable car
   station. After the cable car ride you still face 600 steps to the summit, or you can take
   another funicular from Do Quyen, passing a series of pagodas and Buddhas to the
   summit. Expect crowds or clouds (most likely both) depending on the weather.
   Raise the Roof
   CLIMBING VIETNAM’S HIGHEST MOUNTAIN
   Towering above Sapa are the Hoang Lien Mountains, once known to the French
   as the Tonkinese Alps and now a national park. These mountains include the
   often-cloud-obscured Fansipan (3143m), Vietnam’s highest peak, regularly
   dubbed ‘The Roof of Indochina’. To fully earn the views from the summit of
   Fansipan, you can hike to the summit. Tour agencies in Sapa offer all-inclusive
   overnight camping trips, but some fit and experienced trekkers hike up in a long
   day, setting off at dawn and catching the cable car (see sidebar) down the same
   day.
   It’s a tough hike. Be aware that the terrain is rough and slippery and adverse
   weather is the norm. Bring warm clothes and plenty of water. Don’t attempt an
   ascent if Sapa’s weather is poor, as limited visibility on Fansipan can be
   treacherous and there are fatalities every year. There are a few rudimentary
   shelters en route, but these are very basic, so it’s better to arrange a fully catered
   camping trip if overnighting. At the time of research, guides weren’t mandatory,
   but they are highly recommended.
   If the idea of crowds atop Fansipan is off-putting, consider hiking up to the
   Ngu Chi Son mountains, which somewhat resemble the neglected teeth of a
   pirate. When it’s clear, the views are just as good, and the jagged peaks evoke
   an almost mythological atmosphere. As with Fansipan, engage a guide.
   WHERE TO GET A MASSAGE IN SAPA
   Eden Spa
   Clean but basic facilities right in the centre of town. Most come for foot massages.
   La Dao
   Actually in Ta Van, 10km from Sapa, La Dao specialises in herbal baths. Friendly service.
   Silk Path
   Best facilities in town and they accept outside guests, but it’s better to call first.
   I LIVE HERE: HIKE WITH A LOCAL
   Ly Thi Ker, a Hmong tour guide, explains why it’s worth hiking with a local guide.
   You can walk by yourself, but you miss out on so much. With a local guide from one of the
   villages around Sapa, you’ll have a much deeper cultural experience. Most of us speak
   pretty good English, and we’re happy to answer questions and share our culture. If it’s
   planting season, you can help us plant. If it’s harvest season, you can help us harvest. We
   can also teach you about textiles, foraging and traditional medicine. In some cases you
   might get to stay in our homes, see how we cook around an open fire and meet our
   families.
   Hiking the Valleys
   GOING FAR AND WIDE
   You won’t step too far out of your hotel in Sapa before being accosted with
   offers to guide you on hikes. For longer treks with overnight stays in villages,
   it’s important to hook up with someone who knows the terrain and culture and
   speaks the language. We strongly recommend using local minority guides, as
   this includes them in the visitor economy and makes for a more insightful
   experience (see sidebar on previous page). Most treks will take you through
   muddy, slippery terrain, especially after rain.
   If you head down the valley to heavily commercialised villages such as Ta
   Phin and Ta Van you will want to be sure you have a guide who can take you
   off the busy main (concrete) paths and into the real countryside. A very popular
   day hike from Sapa is to Ta Phin, home to Dzao people, about 10km north of
   Sapa. Most people take a taxi to a starting point about 8km from Sapa, and then
   make a 14km loop through the area, passing through Hmong and Dzao villages.
   For spectacular valley views (if the mist and cloud gods allow), there’s a
   beautiful half-day hike along a high ridge east of Sapa through the Hmong
   settlements of Sa Seng and Hang Da down to the Ta Van River, where you can
   get transport back to Sapa. For more intrepid hiking, investigate a local operator
   (see sidebar) and go to parts unknown.
   Thac Bac (Silver Waterfall), Sapa | blue planet studio/shutterstock ©
   GETTING AROUND
   Sapa is one of the few mountain destinations that you can travel to by train from Hanoi
   (eight hours to Lao Cai, then a one-hour minibus transfer to Sapa). Most foreigners do this
   as an overnight.
   Most Vietnamese get to Sapa by car or bus (five to six hours). There are buses linking
   Sapa, usually via Lao Cai, with Ha Giang (six hours) and Mu Cang Chai (five hours). If
   coming from the coast, transit in Hanoi.
   Beyond Sapa
   Outside of Sapa District, roads less travelled, friendly mountain villages
   and rarely visited markets await.
   Unlike Ha Giang, where tourism has taken over large swathes of the province,
   tourism in Lao Cai province is largely limited to Sapa District and Bac Ha. Few
   travellers step out from these tourism hubs, which makes it all the more
   rewarding for those that do. In other parts of Lao Cai, as well as in the
   neighbouring provinces of Lai Chau and Yen Bai, the hiking trails and mountain
   roads are not as well-trodden, the villages are unmarred by tourism and the
   ethnic markets bubble with authenticity. One example is Sin Ho, which has a
   shrinking but still vibrant market and makes for a refreshing weekend away
   from Sapa.
   TOP TIP
   Sin Ho is the place to go for an authentic, local market unaffected by tourism. The souvenir
   shopping is better in Sapa.
   SLEEPING & EATING IN SIN HO
   The ageing and government-run Thanh Binh has tired but passable rooms at the north
   end of town, and they are almost never fully booked. Phuc Tho has a slightly better
   location with views of the market while Villa De La Roseraie has finally brought some
   charm to Sin Ho’s hotel scene. Jumong Quan at the southern end of Sin Ho is a large,
   friendly rice and hotpot restaurant that’s open all day. You’ll find a smattering of com
   (rice) and bun (noodle) restaurants close to the market.
   Sin Ho Weekend Market
   AUTHENTIC AND UNTOURISTED
   Sin Ho is a scenic mountain town that’s home to a large number of ethnic
   minorities. Few travellers make it here, but a handful of hotels and decent road
   access mean it’s an interesting detour if you’re keen to see an authentic local
   market very different from those at Sapa and Bac Ha, which are now firmly on
   the tour-bus route. Sunday was once market day in Sin Ho, but the Christian
   communities here pushed for this to move to Saturday so that worshippers
   might attend Mass. The result was a kind of compromise; there are now markets
   on both Saturday and Sunday, and both are a slightly watered-down version of
   the original. It’s a better place to buy livestock than ethnic handicrafts, but that’s
   its charm.
   GETTING AROUND
   If you’re going from Dien Bien Phu to Sapa (or the other way around) without transiting in
   Hanoi then Sin Ho makes for an interesting detour. From the south, the turn-off uphill
   (DT128) to Sin Ho is 1km north of Chan Nua on the main road from Muong Lay to Lai
   Chau. From the east, take the DT128 from Lai Chau instead of continuing on the QL4D.
   Definitely ask about the state of both these roads before you leave, as sections are subject
   to landslides. There is a fairly regular bus service between Lai Chau and Sin Ho, but
   moving to and from Dien Bien Phu will likely involve multiple buses. Ask at your hotel.
   Once you make it to Sin Ho, all you’ll need is your own two feet.
   BAC HA
   Sleepy Bac Ha wakes up for the riot of colour and commerce that is its Sunday
   market, when its lanes fill and villagers flock in from the hills and valleys. Once
   the bartering, buying and selling is done and the day-tripper tourist buses from
   Sapa have left, the town rolls over and goes back to bed for the rest of the week.
   Bac Ha’s reputation as a trading hub extends far beyond the town. Many of
   the villages and hamlets nearby multiply in size once a week when they host
   sprawling markets that rival Bac Ha’s own Sunday market in energy and
   atmosphere. Beyond the market, Bac Ha Town has a regrettable lack of things
   to do, but there are two worthwhile sights: the colourful Den Bac Ha (Bac Ha
   Temple) and the outlandish Dinh Thu Hoang A Tuong. Outside of town,
   however, lie hiking and motorbiking opportunities.
   TOP TIP
   Markets in Bac Ha centre around the weekend. Get up early on Sunday to enjoy the market
   before the day-trippers from Sapa start arriving, then visit more far-flung markets, hike and
   motorbike. It can be wet and muddy in the markets, so wear walking shoes or sandals that are
   easy to clean.
   Bac Ha Markets
   MARKETS, MARKETS AND MORE MARKETS
   Bac Ha’s Sunday market is the area’s big draw. There’s an increasing range of
   handicrafts for sale, but it’s still pretty much a local affair. Expect gigantic
   mounds of fruit and vegetables and king-bed sized spreads of raw meat. There
   are also plenty of live animals for sale – chickens, ducks, pigs, and the
   occasional buffalo. It’s possible to spend a few hours here, stopping at stalls for
   a warm cup of tra (green tea) or ngo (boiled corn) for respite. For the
   adventurous, there are also makeshift restaurants serving horse stew and buffalo
   stew, two Hmong specialities.
   Though Bac Ha’s Sunday market is firmly stamped on the day-trip agenda
   from Sapa, it’s hardly been trussed up for tourists and is full of local flavour.
   However, if you want to head further out to other markets, there are several.
   The photogenic Can Cau Market on Saturday mornings spills down a hillside
   20km north of Bac Ha. It’s a magnet for local Hmong buffalo and cattle traders.
   Coc Ly Market on Tuesday mornings attracts Dzao, Hmong, Tay and Nung
   people from the surrounding hills. It’s about 35km southwest of Bac Ha. Lung
   Phinh Market, also on Sunday mornings, is between Can Cau Market and Bac
   Ha, about 12km from town. It’s quieter than other markets, with a really local
   feel – a good place to move to once the tour buses arrive in Bac Ha from Sapa.
   Bac Ha market | oscar espinosa/shutterstock ©
   AN UNLIKELY PALACE
   Fronted by a car park and sometimes used by local kids as a football pitch is one of
   northern Vietnam’s grandest heritage buildings and most unusual sites. Dinh Thu Hoang
   A Tuong, built between 1914 and 1921 by the French to keep the local chief Hoang A Tuong
   ensconced in style, is a bizarre palace constructed in a kind of Eastern baroque style.
   There’s not much to see other than the architecture itself, but it remains a fascinating
   remnant of colonial influence and manipulation. The ground floor has a shop selling
   embroideries, traditional clothes and dried speciality foods. There are a couple of open-air
   cafes outside with views of the palace.
   WHERE TO STAY IN BAC HA
   La Beaute Homestay
   Charming ethnic Tay house that is beautifully decorated and with countryside views. $
   Huy Trung Homestay
   Well-designed, north of town (walking distance). The family suite is a worthy splurge. $
   Nhat Quang Hotel
   Clean and comfortable but characterless in the centre of town. Steps from the market. $
   HIKING THE HILLS
   Hiking trails around Bac Ha lead to villages that are home to a dozen or so ethnic groups.
   The colourful Hmong are the most visible, but other groups in the area include Dzao, Giay,
   Hoa, Xa Fang, Lachi, Nung, Phula, Tay, Thai and Thulao. Overnights in village homestays
   are possible on longer treks, but they are difficult to arrange without a guide. Enlist one
   through your accommodation in Bac Ha or through a reputable tour agency in Hanoi or
   Sapa, and always request a local guide (i.e. from Bac Ha or one of the surrounding
   villages). This offers insight into the local villages’ culture and is a way of including
   residents in the visitor economy.
   Motorbiking in Bac Ha
   TO CHINA AND BACK
   From Bac Ha there’s a stunning one-day motorbike loop that passes through
   market towns, clings to lofty mountains, affords spectacular countryside views,
   crosses waterfalls and offers glimpses of China.
   Head north out of Bac Ha along the DT153 towards Lung Phinh, which
   hosts a small but atmospheric Sunday morning market. If doing the loop on a
   Saturday, you’ll see the much larger Can Cau Market, which is a little further
   than Lung Phinh. Both markets make for interesting pitstops where you can
   warm your hands on cups of hot green tea. After Lung Phinh and Can Cau
   you’ll reach Si Ma Cai, a nondescript town but a decent place to refuel your
   bike and stomach.
   From here the DT153 continues north to the Chinese border – don’t be
   alarmed if Google Maps stops working – and hugs it for several magnificent
   kilometres. Eventually the road passes through Khuong Muong, another
   humdrum town but with basic eateries, cafes and a petrol station.
   From here you can get back to Bac Ha along the DT154, a stunning road with
   river views, stopping at Coc Ly. There’s a market here on Tuesday mornings, so
   if you’re tackling the loop on a Tuesday then consider doing this whole itinerary
   in reverse.
   GETTING AROUND
   There are daily public buses and tourist shuttles from Sapa to Bac Ha (three hours), which
   you can book through your accommodation in Sapa. Note that you may have to transfer in
   Lao Cai if using public buses. If coming from Hanoi, get a train (eight hours) or bus (five
   hours) to Lao Cai and then there are buses from the train/bus station to Bac Ha (two
   hours).
   MAI CHAU
   Set in an idyllic valley hemmed in by misty mountains, the Mai Chau area is a
   world away from Hanoi’s hustle. The small town of Mai Chau itself is
   unappealing, but the patchwork of rice fields begins just 100m away, speckled
   by tiny Thai villages where visitors can bunk down for the night in traditional
   stilt houses and wake up to a rural soundtrack defined by gurgling irrigation
   streams and birdsong.
   The villagers are mostly Thai, distantly related to tribes in Thailand, Laos and
   China. Most no longer wear traditional dress, but the Thai women are masterful
   weavers, producing plenty of traditional-style textiles. Locals do not employ
   strong-arm sales tactics here: polite bargaining is the norm. If you’re looking for
   hardcore exploration, Mai Chau is not the place. But for cycling, walking and
   relaxation, this tranquil corner of the country fits the bill nicely.
   TOP TIP
   Mai Chau’s busy pace was once contained to Saturday and Sunday, but these days crowds and
   karaoke can dominate the valley on any day of the week. Perhaps not what you’ve come for.
   For a quieter corner, head to western Mai Chau (Mai Hich, Sam Khoe and Pieng Vu along the
   DT439).
   SUNDAY MARKETS
   Mai Chau’s Sunday market, which starts in the morning and rolls on until the afternoon,
   has a fair amount of cheap souvenir stalls, though you’ll still find plenty of local pockets
   selling meat, fruit and vegetables. For a more authentic commerce experience, head to Pa
   Co Market, which begins early and is done and dusted (and dusty) by lunch. The market
   is 30km northwest of Mai Chau. The back of the market has a small but high-quality
   section of batiks and embroideries made by the local Hmong people, so the patterns are
   different from what you’ll find in Mai Chau, which is predominantly Thai. The market is just
   south of the main Hoa Binh–Son La highway.
   Mai Chau Meander
   CRISSCROSS A CHECKERBOARD OF RICE PADDIES
   Many people come simply to cycle the paths through the rice fields and explore
   the villages that punctuate the landscape. Most stilt-house homestays rent
   bicycles to explore the valley at your own pace, and while this is a good way to
   cover ground, you’ll be limited by the quality of the paths and the bikes. It’s
   easier to strap on some comfortable walking shoes and wander at will. The
   conjoined twin villages of Ban Lac and Pom Coong form the epicentre of
   tourist activities in Mai Chau and are tightly packed with homestays and market
   stalls. Take them for what they are: good places to sleep, eat, shop and have a
   drink, but not a true reflection of rural village life. Further afield and only
   accessible by way of motorbike or car are a couple of relatively wild waterfalls
   that make for a refreshing half-daytrip: Thac Go Lao and Thac Tat Nang.
   Cycling through rice feilds in Mai Chau | the south wind/shutterstock ©
   WHERE TO STAY IN MAI CHAU
   Homestays
   The villages near Mai Chau are have many homestays. Little Mai Chau Homestay is a safe bet.
   $
   Mai Chau Valley Retreat
   Friendly garden hotel with a handful of private rooms and dorms. Scenic pool. $$
   Mai Chau Ecolodge
   A village-like compound with thatched-roof bungalows surrounded by rice fields. $$$
   Fine Homestay Dining
   EAT LIKE A KING
   Mai Chau was one of the first places in Vietnam to successfully introduce
   small-scale community-based tourism and some visitors may find the
   proliferation of homestays at odds with their image of a peaceful rural retreat.
   However, the experience of serving tourists from all over the world, combined
   with stiff competition, has pushed homestay owners to hone their cooking craft.
   Even if you’re not staying in a homestay, arranging a meal at one is a highlight
   of a trip to Mai Chau. Expect huge spreads of Vietnamese staples, such as
   banana blossom salad and tofu with tomato sauce, and traditional Thai dishes
   like ca hap ong tre (fish wrapped in banana leaves and baked in bamboo) and
   bo xao mang chua (beef stir-fried with pickled baby bamboo).
   These meals take time to prepare, so don’t wander up to a homestay at lunch
   or dinnertime and expect to be fed. Instead, always try and inform the homestay
   owner the day before you want to eat. There’s usually no menu and the
   homestay will prepare what’s available and in season. You can request vegan
   (chay) meals, however, which are every bit as delicious. Homestay meals can
   seem a bit pricey (100,000đ–200,000đ), especially when compared with the cost
   of a bed in a homestay, but are worth every dong. If you’re staying in a
   homestay, it’s expected that you’ll eat most of your meals with the family.
   Stilt houses, Mai Chau | yvette ebertsohn/shutterstock ©
   MUONG CULTURAL MUSEUM
   One potential stopover between Hanoi and Mai Chau is this centre (Bao Tang Khong Gian
   Van Hoa Muong) founded by Hanoi artist Vu Duc Hieu to showcase the culture of the local
   Muong ethnic minority and the quirky art and sculpture of the owner. There’s a collection
   of Muong artefacts, but the highlight is the sprawling 5-hectare complex itself, which is
   home to traditional buildings and open-air art pieces. The museum is 8km southwest of
   Hoa Binh (3km off the main highway to Mai Chau). Simple accommodation and meals are
   available at the museum, but you’ll need to call ahead. the visitor economy.
   GETTING AROUND
   Mai Chau is a little less than four hours from Hanoi, and booking transfers and buses is
   easily done through accommodation providers and travel agencies. Regular public buses
   go from My Dinh bus station, and you may need to transfer in Hoa Binh City. Once in Mai
   Chau, you can rent bicycles and motorbikes through your accommodation.
   Beyond Mai Chau
   Mai Chau is a gateway to various lesser-known destinations. Combine
   these hidden corners with a trip here – or bypass Mai Chau completely.
   Fanning out in all directions from Mai Chau are vast swathes of outstanding
   natural beauty. These areas only see a tiny fraction of visitors when compared
   with their somewhat notorious neighbour, and each one offers a different
   atmosphere and experience. Northeast of Mai Chau (and closer to Hanoi), on
   the opposite side of the dammed Da River, Da Bac District is nestled in a hilly,
   overlooked part of Hoa Binh Province. Southeast of Mai Chau is Pu Luong
   Nature Reserve, with altitudinous rice terraces ringed by jagged mountains. And
   adventures await in Son La, a rugged, largely unexplored and ethnically diverse
   province further west.
   The road out of Mai Chai is a gateway to the wider region | the south wind/shutterstock ©
   TOP TIP
   Pu Luong is good for an extended stay; Da Bac if you’re short on time. Explore Moc Chau by
   motorbike, scooter or on a trail run.
   Unwind in a Pu Luong Lodge
   ENCIRCLED BY WATERFALLS AND TERRACES
   Shunning the crowds in Mai Chau, some choose to go the extra mile (or 30) and
   settle in Pu Luong instead. This extraordinarily beautiful nature reserve blends
   the best of Vietnam’s northern mountains, with craggy peaks, swirling rice
   terraces, bubbling waterfalls and stilt-house hamlets. Some villages cling to the
   mountainside and take advantage of the fine views; others lie close to rivers and
   streams, providing easy access to natural swimming pools.
   The villages in Pu Luong are further apart than they are in Mai Chau, and doit-
   yourself exploration is trickier. Many opt to stay in one of Pu Luong’s
   excellent lodges and arrange excursions, which include treks, waterfall visits,
   farming activities and more, from there. In Ban Don, a lofty village east of the
   QL15C, Pu Luong Treehouse sits atop a small hill with a handful of quirky
   treehouse rooms, thoughtfully designed bungalows and a swimming pool.
   Higher up in Ban Don is Pu Luong Retreat with more conventional hotel
   rooms affording panoramic views. In Ban Hieu, a picturesque village that sits
   alongside a gushing waterfall, Ban Hieu Garden Lodge has stilt rooms that
   look straight out over the water.
   Terraced rice fields, Pu Luong | big pearl/shutterstock ©
   I LIVE HERE: VILLAGES IN PU LUONG
   Dung Le, owner of Pu Luong Treehouse.
   Kho Muong Village, home to around 60 Thai families, is in a valley deep inside the
   reserve so is very isolated from other settlements in the region. Accessing the village by
   road is difficult, which adds to its unspoiled character.
   Eo Ken Village has a small cluster of stilt houses with 100 or so Thai families. It’s on the
   periphery of the nature reserve and you can only get there by foot or motorbike. There’s
   actually a great trekking route that takes in the villages of Duom, Hang, Eo Ken and Pa
   Ban, but it’s best done with a guide.
   WHERE TO STAY IN MOC CHAU
   Homestays
   Moc Chau’s homestay scene is on the up. Most list contact information on Google Maps. $
   A Chu Homestay
   A lodge with shared and private accommodation, hiking tours and home cooking. $$
   Muong Thanh Holiday
   A reliable option in the centre offered by Vietnamese hotel chain Muong Thanh. $$
   VIETNAM TRAIL SERIES
   Want to race in Vietnam but not in January? Worry not. The VTM is but one of four races
   organised by Vietnam Trail Series, Vietnam’s most professional organiser of trail runs. As
   well as the run in Moc Chau, the company organises races in Sapa, Pu Luong and Nam
   Cang (Lao Cai Province). These gruelling but rewarding trail runs have attracted
   international attention, with people flying in from all over the world to compete in long
   distance races, but the vast majority of participants are from Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
   Check vietnamtrailseries.com for dates, distances, route profiles and elevation charts.
   Moc Chau Trail Run
   TAKE ON THE TRAILS
   The fertile hills and valleys of Moc Chau, 60km west of Mai Chau, constitute a
   breadbasket of sorts, with fruit orchards, vegetable plots and a lucrative dairy
   industry. This makes for an attractive rural setting, but the real visual draw is
   the throng of undulating tea hills that stretch for kilometres. Taking full
   advantage of the Moc Chau countryside is the Vietnam Trail Marathon
   (VTM), which usually takes place in January. Races of 10km, 21km, 42km and
   70km crisscross orchards and traverse flower fields before reaching the finish
   line nestled in tea hills. The longer the race the deeper you go, with the 42km
   and 70km races touching isolated villages inaccessible by road.
   Da Bac Homestay Experience
   UNLOCKED BY COMMUNITY-BASED TOURISM
   Just over two hours from Hanoi, and thus closer to the capital than Mai Chau,
   Da Bac District lies east of Hoa Binh City, an unremarkable place that shares its
   name with the province. Despite its proximity to Hanoi and the rugged natural
   beauty, Da Bac only recently began to welcome tourists, thanks in part to Da
   Bac CBT (vcbt-n.com).
   This community-based tourism organisation offers affordable one- and twoday
   packages with fabulous homestay meals, cave and tea hill visits, walks
   through bamboo forests, water activities on Hoa Binh Lake and very basic
   overnight stays with local families. There is a startling number of ethnic groups
   in tiny Da Bac District, including Muong, Thai, Dzao and Tay peoples, some of
   whom you can stay with. For those who don’t fancy the four-hour schlep to Mai
   Chau, Da Bac, though a little rough around the edges, is a credible alternative.
   GETTING AROUND
   From Mai Chau (four hours from Hanoi), Moc Chau is a further 90 minutes and Pu Luong a
   further two hours. Direct transfers can be arranged with your accommodation in Hanoi.
   Da Bac, only two hours from Hanoi, is best accessed through a package tour that includes
   transfers. Once there you can explore the locality by foot, but you’ll need to rent a
   motorbike to explore further afield.

HA GIANG
Ha Giang (pronounced Ha Zang) province is an otherworldly landscape of
limestone pinnacles, swooping gorges and cascading rice terraces. The far north
of the province has some of the most spectacular scenery in Southeast Asia, and
the trip between Yen Minh and Meo Vac via the Ma Pi Leng Pass will blow the
minds of even experienced road trippers. Hoang Su Phi is an overlooked corner
in the west of the province famed for its terraced farms.
Unesco designated the Dong Van Karst Plateau as one of its National
Geoparks – Vietnam’s first – due to the unique nature of its limestone geology.
Ha Giang’s secret is well and truly out of the bag and visitor numbers increased
rapidly in the years running up to the Covid-19 pandemic. That said, there are
plenty of quiet back roads and stunning corners to explore and tourist
infrastructure is improving.
HIGHLIGHTS
1 Dong Van
SIGHTS
2 Deo Gio
3 Du Gia
4 Fairy Waterfall
5 Kiou Leou Ti
6 Lung Cu Flag
7 Ma Pi Leng Pass
8 Pho Ban
9 Viet Quang
10 Vuong Palace
11 Xin Man
TOP TIP
There are only really two ways to tackle northern Ha Giang: as part of a tour or with your own
wheels. While it is possible to explore the area on public transport, buses are small, slow,
uncomfortable and unreliable. Besides, in northern Ha Giang the journey is the reward; being
couped up in a bus impairs the views.
BEFORE YOU GO
Don’t expect to see wildlife; you’ll only be disappointed. Do expect to meet a multitude of
ethnic groups. Learn about them with a visit to the Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi first.
Don’t rush this part of the country. You need at least three full days after arriving in Ha
Giang City to make the most of it. Do bring a sleeping bag liner for chilly nights and
musty beds. Don’t expect perfect weather all of the time. Rain clouds gather even in dry
months (October – December).
Dong Van Karst Plateau
UNESCO GLOBAL GEOPARK
The Dong Van Karst Plateau was designated a Unesco Global Geopark in 2015
for the height of its peaks (Mt. Mieu Vac is almost 2000m high) and depths of
its canyons (Tu Son Canyon is 800m deep). The geopark and its surroundings
are rich in both flora and fauna. It is also culturally rich; the area is home to at
least 17 ethnic groups.
THE GEOLOGY
The geopark essentially forms part of the foothills of the Himalayas, which
officially begin many hundreds of kilometres northwest of Ha Giang. Around
60% of the over 550-million-year-old park’s surface is limestone, with
geoheritages that include karsts, caves and tectonics. Important events in Earth’s
history are recorded in the geology, including the Frasnian-Famennian and
Permian-Triassic mass extinction boundaries. Palaeontological discoveries
include ancient fish, brachiopods and fossilised paths of mollusca.
THE PEOPLE
The Dong Van Karst Plateau is home to at least 17 different ethnic groups, each
with their own language, architecture, clothing and way of life. Four ethnic
minority groups that you are likely to encounter are the Hmong, the Dzao, the
Tay and the Hoa. The Hmong, recognisable by the multicoloured skirts worn by
the women, tend to live and farm high up in the hills. The Dzao, identifiable by
their bold red headdresses, are master foragers, a skill they’ve utilised for herbal
baths that they can arrange for homestay guests in Nam Dam Village. The Tay
often live close to water in lofty stilt houses, which you can see in Du Gia
Village. The Hoa are ethnic Chinese, and you’ll find their unstilted houses –
look for Chinese characters above the door – in Pho Bang. A fifth group you
might encounter are the Lolo in Lo Lo Chai at the foot of Lung Cu Flag Tower.
Lolo women wear quilted tunics, multicoloured ribbons and fluffy tassels and
beads.
THE FAUNA
The geopark is surprisingly rich in rare fauna, though the chances of spotting
wildlife are very low. It has a small number of wild moon bears (also known as
Asian black bears), so-called for the cream-coloured, crescent-shaped tuft of
hair on their chests, and southern serows, a horned mountain goat that also
inhabits other parts of Southeast Asia. The most mysterious of all the exotic
animals found in the park is the Tonkin snub-nosed monkey. This fat-lipped,
orange-maned monkey was believed extinct until its rediscovery in the 1990s,
and is now on the list of the world’s 25 most endangered primate species.
Dong Van Karst Plateau | soft_light/shutterstock ©
THE HERITAGE
Aside from the landscapes and peoples, there are a handful of notable sights in
the Dong Van Karst Plateau and its environs. Dong Van old town has an
attractive market square that erupts in colour on Sundays and a smattering of
handsome, but crumbling, ancient houses. At the top of the karst peak that
overlooks central Dong Van are the crumbling ruins of a French fort, accessible
by a small path east of the market. The Dinh Vua Meo (Vuong Palace) is an
intriguing Chinese-Hmong structure built by the French for a local king in the
1920s. The climbable Cot Co Lung Cu (Lung Cu Flag Tower), is an epic
monument that marks Vietnam’s northernmost point.
WHY I LOVE HA GIANG
Joshua Zukas, co-author Lonely Planet Vietnam
Many of my best experiences in Vietnam, from drinking rice wine with a Dzao granny to
waterfall swimming with a Tay teenager, were had in Ha Giang. Yes, Ha Giang provides all
the ingredients to cook up a one-of-a-kind road trip adventure, but for me it’s the people
that make it. Ha Giang’s scenery is so visually rich that it’s easy to overlook its cultural
wealth. The area is home to dozens of ethnic groups – perhaps even more than official
statistics would have you believe – and each one is different. I’ve tried to tease this apart
in my Ha Giang loop motorbike itinerary, where each night is spent with a different
ethnic group.
THE HA GIANG LOOP
The so-called Ha Giang Loop denotes a road trip, usually done on a motorbike,
from Ha Giang City through the Dong Van Karst Plateau and back again. This
remains the best way to explore this part of the country as distances are vast and
the scenery changes at every road bend.
GETTING AROUND
Ha Giang City, is accessible by bus (six hours) from Hanoi. Book tickets through your
Hanoi hotel or one of the many travel agents in the Old Quarter. If staying in Hoang Su Phi
without your own wheels, your hotel there can arrange private transfers to and from
Hanoi. Getting around the province by public transport is hard going, so renting your own
wheels or booking a tour is recommended. Do this in Hanoi or through a reputable agency
like NoMadders or QT Motorbikes and Tours in Ha Giang City.

ROAD TRIP
Motorbiking in Northern Ha Giang
There are many ways to tackle northern Ha Giang by road and this
itinerary offers just one; don’t be afraid to adapt these plans for your
own adventure. Recommended motorbike rental and tour
companies are QT Motorbikes and Tours and NoMadders, but there
are others. It’s also worth checking the permit and licence situation
before setting off.
Day 1: Ha Giang – Nam Dam
A half-day drive, heading north on the QL4C from Ha Giang City through
pretty villages before hitting the Bac Sum Pass and viewpoint. From there
the road descends through flower fields before climbing again to Quan Ba
Pass (Heaven’s Gate), one of the journey’s most dramatic sights. Descend
into Tam Son town, which has a few passable guesthouses, but a nicer
place to stay is the Dzao village of Nam Dam, 6km up a side road and
home to over a dozen homestays. The most stylish of these is the
traditional-style Dao Lodge, but the family homestays are great too.
Ma Pi Leng Pass, Ha Giang | HUY THOAI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Day 2: Nam Dam – Lung Cua
Continue north along the Mien River before zigzagging east through
terraced farms and pine forests to Yen Minh. As the road meanders north,
the views become progressively extraordinary. To see a rare and interesting
Hoa (ethnic Chinese) village with a handful of traditional houses, look out
for signage to Pho Bang 20km north of Yen Minh. The road then passes
the unmissable Vuong Palace before climbing 30km north to the Lung Cu
Flag Tower and a Lolo village with homestays. Homie Homestay is a
good option.
Day 3: Lung Cu – Meo Vac
Dong Van is 25km southeast of Lung Cu with accommodation options
should you choose to spend the night and extend the journey. Consider
taking an extra day to hike the Sky Path; you can arrange transport, a guide
and a packed lunch in and around the market square. The road connecting
Dong Van with Meo Vac is the famed Ma Pi Leng Pass, with rippling hills
that tumble down to the distant waters of the Nho Que River and its
emerald-green gorge. Meo Vac has plenty of hotels, but for a unique stay,
head to Auberge de Meo Vac, a lovingly restored Hmong house dating
from the 19th century.
Day 4: Meo Vac – Du Gia
Leave Meo Vac and the QL4C by heading west on the winding DT182 and
DT176 all the way to Mau Due. From here it feels as if you’ve left the best
of the scenery behind, before the road dramatically and unexpectedly
ascends again as it continues south. The road then descends into Du Gia,
an idyllic Tay village enveloped by rice terraces and with a handful of
homestays. There are a couple of waterfalls close to Du Gia where it’s
possible to swim; ask where they are in the village.
Day 5: Du Gia – Ha Giang
There are two ways back to Ha Giang City from Du Gia: west along the
DT181 to meet the QL4C before heading south, or south DT176 before
meeting the QL34 and heading west. The first option is faster and involves
only new road, so closes the loop cleanly. The second option is more
scenic, but takes a little longer.
Beyond Ha Giang
The mountainous provinces east of Ha Giang enjoy quieter roads, a
handful of culinary specialities and Vietnam’s most spectacular waterfall.
Ha Giang was once touted as Vietnam’s final frontier. Then tourists discovered
the province and travel pioneers searched for somewhere fresh to brag about.
Some settled on Cao Bang, the province immediately east of Ha Giang and less
than an hour from Meo Vac. From its border with Ha Giang, Cao Bang province
stretches eastward along the Chinese frontier until it reaches the ethereal Ban
Gioc Waterfall (Thac Ban Gioc), a terraced cascade shared with Vietnam’s
northern neighbour. Further east still lies Lang Son, with less lofty peaks but
even fewer visitors. Though striking, the scenery in Cao Bang and Lang Son
can’t compete with the dramatic vistas of Ha Giang, but they prove that
Vietnam still has a few tricks up its sleeve.
Cao Bang lakes | TRAN VIET LINH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
TOP TIP
If you’re bypassing Ha Giang completely, it’s easier to reach both Cao Bang and Lang Son from
Hanoi.
Spectacular Waterfall
THE END OF THE ROAD
Straddling the border with China, where the falls are known as Detian Falls, is
Ban Gioc Waterfall (Thac Ban Gioc), a genuinely jaw-dropping spectacle of
terraced cascades framed by jungle-cloaked karsts. Few make it this far
northeast, only adding to Ban Gioc Waterfall’s intrigue. The falls are two hours
northeast of Cao Bang City, and though there isn’t much to do, bar take a short
boat journey to get even closer to the spray (swimming is prohibited), the falls
and nearby Phat Tich Truc Lam Ban Gioc Pagoda are worthy of at least a
couple of hours. So is Tiger Cave (Dong Nguom Ngao), less than 10 minutes
away.
Ban Gioc Waterfall | TATIANA_KASHKO_PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
BEST EATERIES IN LANG SON & CAO BANG
Cho Lang Son
Lang Son Market and around has several market stalls serving tasty Vietnamese fare,
including banh cuon in the morning and coong phu in the early evening. $
Nha Hang Ngon Cao Bang
Popular local spot in Cao Bang City specialising in Cao Bang sausage and banh nep nhan
trung kien (savoury rice cake with ant eggs). $$
Nha Hang Vit Quay Hai Xom
Roast duck at its best in Lang Son City. They also serve pho vit (duck noodle soup), an
interesting take on Vietnam’s national dish. $$
Cao Bang & Lang Son Specialities
MOUNTAIN MEAT AND CHINESE INFLUENCE
While the everyday cuisine in Cao Bang and Lang Son is simple, there are a
handful of standout dishes worth hunting out. Lap suon Cao Bang (Cao Bang
sausage) is a rich and meaty smoked sausage that you’ll see hanging up in shops
and restaurants in Cao Bang City. Cao Bang is also famous for its take on banh
cuon (rolled wet rice paper with minced pork and mushrooms), which they
serve for breakfast with a hearty bowl of clear soup. Chinese cuisine has a
strong influence on the speciality dishes of Lang Son; the vitquay (roast duck)
here is the tastiest in the country. Coong Phu, a warm sweet soup with
gelatinous rice balls, peanuts and shaved coconut, can be found in street stalls
near Lang Son Market.
GETTING AROUND
Cao Bang City (six hours) and Lang Son City (four hours) are accessible by bus from
Hanoi. Book tickets through your Hanoi hotel or one of the many travel agents in the Old
Quarter. There are also trains to Lang Son, though the passenger service was unavailable
at the time of research. Getting between Ha Giang, Cao Bang and Lang Son is also
possible by public bus, and you can enquire at your accommodation or at central bus
stations. Cao Bang and Lang Son are walkable cities, but you’ll need a private car or
motorbike to reach the falls.
BA BE NATIONAL PARK
The scenery in Ba Be National Park, designated in 1992, plunges from
limestone mountains down into lush valleys wrapped in dense evergreen forests
and speckled with waterfalls and caves. The area is commonly referred to as Ba
Be Lake, as this murky and atmospheric body of water dominates the heart of
the national park. The park is a rainforest area with many hundreds of named
plant species. Wildlife species here include dozens of mammals and fish,
hundreds of birds and butterflies, four kinds of turtles and the highly
endangered Vietnamese salamander. Bird species include the spectacular crested
serpent eagle and the oriental honey buzzard. Hunting is forbidden, but the
government permits fishing. The park is home to several villages, most
belonging to the Tay minority group, but there are also Dzao and Hmong
settlements higher up in the hills.
TOP TIP
Eating delicious, home-cooked meals is one of the highlights of Ba Be. Your accommodation
provider will expect you to eat most meals with them (breakfast is usually provided, but not
always) and it would be impolite to regularly go elsewhere. Lunches and dinners in homestays
can cost as much as your bed, and sometimes a little more.
Lake Life
BOAT TRIPS AND MOUNTAIN HIKING
Ba Be National Park offers all of northern Vietnam’s quintessential natural
vistas – mountains, caves, lakes and waterfalls – and flagship activities –
motorbiking, biking, kayaking, hiking, boat trips and village visits – in one
place. You can arrange most activities through your accommodation provider
(see below), but note that proceedings may be smoother in the bigger, more
expensive lodgings.
Rimmed by limestone peaks, Ba Be (meaning ‘three pools’) is in fact three
linked lakes, with a total length of 8km and a width of about 400m. Half-day
boat excursions usually visit the thundering Dau Dang Waterfall, isolated An
Ma Temple and the 300m-long Puong Cave (Dong Puong), full of stalactites
and stalagmites and home to thousands of bats (belonging to 18 species). Other
Ba Be Lake stops include the startling, circular, jungle-rimmed lagoon of Ao
Tien. Alternatively, or additionally, rent a kayak to explore the lake
independently.
Away from the water, hiking and walking excursions are also enjoyable, and
at times offer breathtaking views. Strolling around the quiet roads that encircle
the lake can be done solo, but if you want to trek into the hills and visit Dzao
and Hmong villages, seek a guide. One of Ba Be’s most popular off-the-water
sights is the 800m-long Hua Ma Cave complex with a pathway leading down
into a soaring 50m-high cavern.
Ba Be lakes | QUANG NGUYEN VINH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
BEST ACCOMMODATION IN BA BE
Homestays
There are various homestays, most of which are clustered in Pac Ngoi Village. Some are
bookable online, but it’s also possible to turn up on the day. $
Mr Linh’s Homestay
More of a lodge than a homestay, Mr Linh’s occupies a quiet spot overlooking a narrow
corner of the lake. Bicycles, kayaks, boat tours and hiking guides available. $$
Hai Dang Lodge
On the road but with an elevated position, Hai Dang Lodge offers sweeping views across
the lake. Matches Mr Linh’s in activity options. $$
GETTING AROUND
The larger accommodation providers offer a shuttle service from Hanoi. It’s also possible
to get a bus from Hanoi to Bac Kan City, and then another from there to Ba Be National
Park, but the journey will take the better part of a day. Once there, you can hike and take
boat trips from your lodgings but will need motorised transport to reach Hua Ma Cave.
MU CANG CHAI
Mu Cang Chai District is best known for its cascade of rice terraces,
photographs of which adorn the lobbies of cheap guesthouses across Vietnam.
Indeed, images of the bulging green rice terraces of Mu Cang Chai are so
emblematic of Vietnam’s northern mountains that they are sometimes clumsily
used by Hanoi travel agents to tout tours to Sapa, Mai Chau and other betterknown
destinations. And yet Mu Cang Chai still only sees a tiny trickle of
foreign visitors.
Domestic travellers, on the other hand, descend on Mu Cang Chai in droves
just before the harvest, which begins in September, when the terraces have
transformed into a gorgeous golden-yellow as the rice cycle reaches its final
stages. During the summer months the terraces radiate a vivacious green and in
wintertime they fill with water to resemble reflective pools. Whenever you visit,
the vistas are likely to be extraordinary.
TOP TIP
The beginning of harvest season (September) is an astonishing time to visit but the weather
can be wet and hotels can book out weeks, even months in advance. By mid-October harvest
season is coming to an end, but you can still find plenty of uncut golden terraces, the weather
is drier and the accommodation quieter.
BEST PLACES TO STAY IN (AND NEAR) MU CANG CHAI
Dong Suoi Hmong Homestay
Homestay owner Xuan has made charming roadside lodgings with panoramic views of the
riverbend and elevated rice terraces. Both private rooms and dorms available. $
Mu Cang Chai Ecolodge
Sitting atop a hill and encircled by rice paddies, Mu Cang Chai Ecolodge offers private,
good-value bungalows and delicious home-cooked food. Dorm beds are also available. $$
Le Champ
Until its sister hotel (Mu Cang Chai Resort) opens, this is the closest high-end hotel to Mu
Cang Chai in neighbouring Van Chan District with design bungalows, hot springs and a
spa. $$$
Bountiful Harvest
TAKE ON THE TERRACES
Elevated rice terraces are an extraordinary example of how land can be adapted
for cultivation. In some cases, entire hills have been cleared and carved to
construct level, farmable paddies, painting a pixilated picture. Viewpoints of
this cultivated topography are peppered throughout Mu Cang Chai, with Doi
Mam Xoi (Raspberry Hill) being the most famous and photographed. There’s
actually a slightly quieter spot, Mong Ngua, much closer to Mu Cang Chai
Town. Both spots are stunning, but have attracted so many visitors in recent
years that the district now requires payment to enter and the farmers are
encouraged to hold off harvesting for as long as possible to elongate the golden
month.
For less commodified views, head further out of town to Lao Chai or Khao
Mang. While many of the villages surrounding Mu Cang Chai are Thai, the
valley here is farmed almost exclusively by the Hmong, evidenced by the
grounded dwellings and blue, black and purple skirts worn by women. If you’re
not on a tour of Mu Cang Chai or you don’t have your own transport, explore
the district through your accommodation provider, who can arrange multiday
guided tours and motorbike rental.
Terraced rice fields, Mu Cang Chai | NGOC VU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
GETTING AROUND
Mu Cang Chai is served by direct buses (eight hours), including the sleeper variety, from
Hanoi. If coming from Mai Chau or Dien Bien Phu, take a bus to Son La (four hours) and
then from there another bus to Mu Cang Chai (four hours). If coming from Sapa or the
northeast, take a bus or train to Yen Bai, from where there are regular onward buses to Mu
Cang Chai (five hours).
DIEN BIEN PHU
Dien Bien Phu plays a starring role in Vietnam’s modern history. It was in the
surrounding countryside, on 7 May 1954, that the French colonial forces were
defeated by the Viet Minh in a decisive battle that served as the nail in the
coffin of the Indochina empire. The town sits in the heart-shaped Muong Thanh
Valley, surrounded by heavily forested hills. The scenery along the way here is
stunning, with approach roads scything through thick forests and steep terrain.
Tay, Hmong and Si La people live in the surrounding mountains, but the city
and valley are mainly inhabited by ethnic Vietnamese. Previously just a minor
settlement, Dien Bien Phu was elevated to provincial capital in 2004. It’s a
pleasant stop for fans of military history or those heading to northern Laos. It’s
also northern Vietnam’s only mountain destination that you can fly to from
Hanoi.
SIGHTS
1 Bunker of Colonel de Castries
2 D Nguyen Chi Thanh
3 Dien Bien Phu Cemetery
4 Dien Bien Phu Museum
5 French War Memorial
6 Victory Monument
ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS
7 A1 Hill
TOP TIP
Dien Bien Phu’s accommodation scene is just fine; you’ll find a handful of guesthouses in and
around Đ Nguyen Chi Thanh. For something with soul, reach out to Dien Bien Phu CBT on
Facebook. They can arrange friendly stays with a local Tay family in Muong Phang, 35km west
of the city.
The Old Bridge, Dien Bien Phu | VAN THANH CHUONG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
TOP SIGHT
Dien Bien Phu
Dien Bien Phu is an essential visit for anyone interested in
Vietnam’s tumultuous modern history – nowhere else in the country
are so many military history sights packed into one place. You’ll
need two full days to get to grips with the history and visit all the
worthwhile sights.
Command bunker of Colonel de Castries | xita/shutterstock ©
The Battle of Dien Bien Phu
In early 1954 General Henri Navarre, commander of the French forces in
Indochina, sent 12 battalions to occupy the Muong Thanh Valley in an
attempt to prevent the Viet Minh from crossing into Laos and threatening
the former Lao capital of Luang Prabang. The French units, of whom 30%
were Vietnamese, were soon surrounded by Viet Minh forces, who were
equipped with artillery pieces and anti-aircraft guns painstakingly carried
by porters through jungles and across rivers. The guns were placed in
concealed, carefully camouflaged positions overlooking the French troops.
French Chief Artillery Commander Pirot assumed there was no way the
Viet Minh could get heavy artillery to the area, and when the guns opened
fire he took his own life. Weeks of intense artillery bombardments ensued.
Six battalions of French paratroopers were parachuted into Dien Bien Phu
as the situation worsened but this proved insufficient. The elaborate series
of French trenches and bunkers were overrun by the Viet Minh after the
French decided against the use of US conventional bombers and the
Pentagon’s proposal to use tactical atomic bombs. All 13,000 French
soldiers were either killed or taken prisoner, and Viet Minh casualties have
been estimated at many times that. Viet Minh forces finally overran the
beleaguered French garrison after a 57-day siege. This shattered French
morale, and resulted in France abandoning Vietnam for good.
DON’T MISS
Dien Bien Phu Museum
A1 Hill (or Eliane)
Bunker of Colonel de Castries
Victory Monument
Dien Bien Phu Cemetery
Dien Bien Phu Campaign Command Headquarters
Muong Phang Monument
Dien Bien Phu Museum
This well-laid-out museum, contained in a striking modern structure,
features an eclectic collection that commemorates the 1954 battle.
Alongside weaponry and guns, there’s a bathtub that belonged to the
French commander Colonel de Castries, a bicycle capable of carrying
330kg of ordnance, and the testimony of Vietnamese who were there.
A1 Hill
This vantage point was crucial in the battle of Dien Bien Phu. There are
tanks and a monument to Viet Minh casualties on this former French
position, known to the French as Eliane and to the Vietnamese as A1 Hill.
The elaborate trenches at the heart of the French defences have also been
recreated. Little background information is given on-site.
Dien Bien Phu Cemetery
The immaculately maintained Dien Bien Phu Cemetery commemorates the
Vietnamese who died in the battle of Dien Bien Phu, with each gravestone
bearing the gold star of the Vietnamese flag and a clutch of incense sticks.
Bunker of Colonel de Castries
West of the Ron River, the dank command bunker of Colonel de Castries
has been recreated, though there’s little to actually see. A discarded tank
and some mortar guns linger nearby. You might see Vietnamese tourists
mounting the bunker and waving the Vietnamese flag, re-enacting an
iconic photograph taken at the battle’s conclusion.
French War Memorial
The unsigned French War Memorial, erected on the 30th anniversary of the
1954 battle, commemorates the 3000 French troops buried under the rice
paddies.
Victory Monument
The epic hilltop Victory Monument, commemorating the 1954 battles,
presides heroically over Dien Bien Phu’s main roads. Road access leads
around the back of the hill, or you can climb the steps for fine views.
Dien Bien Phu Campaign Command Headquarters
The Battle of Dien Bien Phu was masterminded from these bunkers 40km
west of the city and accessible by taxi or motorbike. The buildings are
reconstructions, but they do give some sense of what conditions would
have been like during the battle. The nearby Tuong Dai Di Tich Muong
Phang (Muong Phang Monument) is the most elaborate of Dien Bien Phu’s
many commemorative statues. The inscription is one of triumph, reading
‘Definitive battle, definitive victory’.
TOP TIPS

• The battle of Dien Bien Phu can be quite confusing, so it’s a good idea to read up
  on the history beforehand to provide context for the trip.
• Refuel between sights on Đ Nguyen Chi Thanh, a leafy street lined with cheap
  and basic restaurants (and guesthouses).
• You’ll find the best coffee in Dien Bien Phu at Trung Nguyen ECoffee. The coffee
  with coconut milk is particularly good.
• To get around, either rent a motorbike from your hotel or negotiate a day or halfday
  rate with a driver.
  Beyond Dien Bien Phu
  For a real adventure with rough roads, isolated villages and no English
  speakers, the areas around Dien Bien Phu may be just the ticket.
  Dien Bien Phu is the gateway to Vietnam’s northwest, a rugged and remote
  expanse wedged between northern Laos and southern China. Very few travellers
  make it here, which might be the area’s biggest appeal. Travel here is not for the
  faint-hearted or uninitiated. Roads can be rough, weather can be unpredictable,
  landslides can cause delays, officials can put a stop to your journey for no clear
  reason and you’ll be hard-pressed to find anyone that speaks even a sliver of
  English. But aside from the lure of adventure, intrepid explorers will be
  rewarded with villages untouched by tourism, cloud-kissing mountain passes
  and near traffic-less roads (save the odd dusty truck).
  Tua Chua District, Dien Bien | HOANG HAI GIANG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  TOP TIP
  Motorbike is the way to go in Vietnam’s wild west. Hotels will rent them to you, but you may
  need to leave a passport as deposit.
  Lonely Roads
  EXPLORE THE NORTHWEST
  Motorbiking anywhere in Vietnam’s northwest results in adventure, but here are
  two possible loops from Dien Bien Phu. The first is a two-day trip to Tua Chua
  District. Head east from Dien Bien Phu on the AH13 until you get to Tuan
  Giao, an uninteresting roadside settlement but a possible lunch stop. Then head
  north on the QL6 to Huoi Long (also with basic lunch places) and take a right
  on the DT129. From here it’s a long, winding and beautiful road all the way
  through Tua Chua District. There are a couple of roadside nha nghi
  (guesthouses) as well as a Hmong homestay called Chang Mua in Ta Phin (not
  to be confused with Ta Phin near Sapa). Keep your eyes peeled for the eerie
  remains of a Hmong fort near the homestay. On the second day, return via
  Muong Lay for some variety. For an even bigger, multiday adventure, get lost in
  the extreme northwest (see sidebar). There are a smattering of guesthouses in
  the area, as well as simple eateries selling bun, pho (noodles) and com (rice).
  Milestone on the border between Vietnam, Laos and China | VAN THANH CHUONG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  I LIVE HERE: TACKLING THE EXTREME NORTHWEST
  Tom Divers, founder of motorbike travel website Vietnam Coracle, shares his tips.
  @vietnamcoracle
  Link roads
  The nameless, serpentine byways that thread the valleys between Muong Nhe, Moung Te
  and Pac Ma form a closed loop west of QL12.
  Detour to A Pa Chai
  The point at which Vietnam, China and Laos meet. The rewards for reaching the ‘end of
  the road’ are astonishing views and bragging rights.
  Permission slips
  Consider seeking official permission before you go at police stations (cong an) in Dien
  Bien Phu, Muong Nhe or Muong Te.
  Do your homework
  Visit the website vietnamcoracle.com
  GETTING AROUND
  Dien Bien Phu is the only mountain destination in northern Vietnam that you can fly to
  (one hour), with Vasco Airlines, a subsidiary of Vietnam Airlines. There are daily
  departures. There are also overnight and day-long buses to and from Sapa (which stop in
  Muong Lay and Lai Chau) or Hanoi (which can stop near Moc Chau or Mai Chau if
  prearranged). As is usually the case in northern Vietnam, book your buses through your
  accommodation.
  CENTRAL VIETNAM
  WAR-RAVAGED YET BEAUTIFULLY WILD
  Dense jungles to the west, endless beaches to the east, and countless
  adventures throughout – this is Vietnam’s central region.
  My Khe Beach, Danang | tbone lee/shutterstock ©
  For centuries, the South China Sea, which lies to the east of Vietnam, was
  known by seafarers throughout the continent as the Champa Sea, named after
  the vast Hindu empire that reigned over central Vietnam from as early as the 3rd
  century BCE until the 15th century, when the Dai Viet people took over.
  When Napoleon III ordered the invasion of Vietnam in 1857, the French
  military attacked Danang the following year, turning it into a military base
  before moving to invade the rest of the country. They would occupy Vietnam
  for almost another century before the local Vietnamese retaliated in the First
  Indochina War in 1946.
  After eight long, arduous years of battle, the Vietnamese forces defeated the
  French in 1954, only to take up arms again in 1955 in the Second Indochina
  War, also known as the American War. Central Vietnam suffered greatly during
  this period, as many of the battles were fought near the demilitarised zone
  (DMZ) in the region.
  From the Cham complex of Hindu temples at My Son Sanctuary to the
  French villas at Bach Ma National Park and the American bunkers in Danang,
  vestiges of history remain today in the jungle-clad hills of the area. Not to be
  defined by war, the region also boasts long coastlines of sandy beaches, vast
  wilderness, ornate palaces and ancient temples.
  Lantern Festival on the Perfume River, Hue | quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock ©
  THE MAIN AREAS
  NINH BINH
  Rivers and rice paddies.
  PHONG NHA
  Caves and country life.
  HUE
  Imperial palaces, tombs and royal cuisine.
  LANG CO
  Hiking, snorkelling and sunbathing.
  DANANG
  Mountains, surf and nightlife.
  HOI AN
  Small town life.
  Find Your Way
  Central Vietnam covers half the country. We’ve selected the places that
  capture the region’s history, culture and landscape, so pick which ones
  to use as a base and discover a central Vietnam of your own.
  Plan Your Days
  Central Vietnam is chock-full of history, culture and nature. Wander
  through its ancient cities, sample its cuisine, relax on the beach and
  explore the jungle inland.
  noina/shutterstock ©
  If You Only Do One Thing
• Head straight for Hoi An bright and early to discover the charmingly preserved Old
  Town. The lanes are lined with bright, ancient houses with terracotta-shingled roofs. While
  you’re there, breakfast on hearty noodle soup at Cao Lau Khong Gian Xanh.
• On your way to An Bang Beach, stop by Tra Que Village for local farm life. Have lunch
  at Baby Mustard Restaurant or wait until you get to the shore to dine at Soul Kitchen.
  After your fill of sand and sea, grab a cocktail at Coco Casa for pretty sunset views.
  A Weekend Stay
• After a day in Hoi An, head north to Danang to explore the pagodas, shrines and caves
  at Marble Mountains, where monks still reside. Spend the afternoon riding around Son
  Tra Peninsula, visiting the Lady Buddha statue at Ling Ung Pagoda, the 1000-year old
  banyan tree and the views at Ban Co Peak before catching the sunset at Tien Sa
  Retreat.
• After dark, people-watch with an aperitif at Paradise Beach. Then, head to Moc Quan
  for some grilled oysters and lemongrass clams, and end your night with a signature
  cocktail at The Craftsman.
  If You Have More Time
• In Hue, start at the Imperial City to tour the former palace of the Nguyen emperors.
  Then, grab lunch at Hang Me Me and taste a sampling of the savoury cakes of Hue’s royal
  cuisine before cruising down the Perfume River.
• Make your first stop at Con Da Vien, an uninhabited island that once housed an arena
  for tiger and elephant fighting. Next up is Thien Mu Pagoda. Climb seven storeys for an
  epic view. Then end the trip at Minh Mang’s royal tomb, a site of perfect symmetry and
  Chinese design.
  Seasonal Highlights
  June to August can get hot, so it’s a good time to escape to the jungle
  or the sea. October to December bring strong storms.
  JANUARY
  Dry and mild weather make perfect conditions for chasing waterfalls
  and trekking in the jungles.
  nemo67/shutterstock ©
  MAY
  Thousands of athletes from all over the world descend on Danang for
  the annual Ironman Competition.
  franchesko mirroni/shutterstock ©
  JUNE
  Soak up colourful fireworks, complete with light effects and music,
  during the Danang International Fireworks Festival.
  tang trung kien/shutterstock ©
  JULY
  The sea is calm this time of year, so it’s a good time to snorkel Cham
  Island and Hon Chao.
  soft_light/shutterstock ©
  SEPTEMBER
  Revel in the colour of the rice paddies, which turn a gorgeous gold just
  before harvest time.
  sl-photography/shutterstock ©
  OCTOBER
  The strong storms raging in from the South China Sea create big
  waves that are ideal for surfing.
  catwalkphotos/shutterstock ©
  DECEMBER
  Escape from the chilly weather and indulge yourself by going to the spa
  or soaking in some hot springs.
  julia anne/shutterstock ©
  NINH BINH
  A mere two-hour ride from Hanoi, Ninh Binh offers a peaceful escape from the
  noise and distraction of its urban neighbour. It boasts sprawling rice paddies,
  winding glass rivers and mossy pagodas, with dramatic karst peaks forming a
  truly picture-perfect backdrop. Rivers, tributaries, pools and lakes abound in
  this stunning area, which lies at the southernmost edge of the Red River Delta
  region.
  That said, Ninh Binh isn’t just beautiful landscapes. Once the capital of
  Vietnam in ancient times, ‘Halong Bay on Land’ is also home to a number of
  cultural attractions. In 2014, Unesco recognised the area as a cultural and
  natural heritage site for its outstanding beauty as well as its cultural and
  historical significance. So take a boat trip through mysterious grottoes; stroll
  through the ancient capital; look for wildlife at the nature reserve; visit serene
  pagodas; and climb to majestic vistas.
  HIGHLIGHTS
  1 Tam Coc
  2 Trang An
  3 Van Long Nature Reserve
  SIGHTS
  4 Bich Dong Pagoda
  5 Hoa Lu Temples
  6 Thung Nham Bird Park
  7 Van Long Nature Reserve
  ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS
  8 Hang Ca
  9 Mua Cave
  EATING
  10 Ba Cua Restaurant
  11 Thang Long Restaurant
  TOP TIP
  The wet season, from May to October, brings on hordes of mosquitoes and leeches. If you plan
  to come to the area during this time, then come prepared. Make sure to bring insect repellent
  with you, and wear long-sleeved shirts and trousers to cover up when you’re out.
  BEST RESTAURANTS IN TAM COC
  Brick Coffee Shop
  A charming cafe serving coffee and homemade cakes, baked daily. $
  Minh Khoi Restaurant and Foods Banh Mi
  A vast menu offering local favourites, and crepes, smoothies, and iced teas. $
  Family Restaurant
  A popular eatery serving up specialities like roasted duck and grilled goat. $$
  Nha Hang Duc Dan
  Stir-fried goat, roasted goat, and more goat, served by friendly waitstaff. $$
  NGON Vegan Restaurant
  Tasty vegan dishes in a chic space. $$
  A River Paradise
  EXPLORING TAM COC
  The Ngo Dong River flows through Tam Coc, slipping between limestone
  peaks and grottoes, and flanked on both sides by green and yellow patchworks
  of rice paddies. Tam Coc means ‘Three Grottoes’, and is named after its three
  natural caves that one of the Tam Coc boat tours can take you on an exploration
  of. The whole trip takes just under 2½ hours and is often guided by local
  women who row using their feet.
  Nestled into the mountainside, and 3km from Tam Coc wharf, is a 15thcentury
  complex of three-tiered structures embedded in the cliff face: Bich
  Dong Pagoda translates into ‘Pagoda of the Emerald Grotto’ and is believed to
  be named after the greenery that clings to the mountain and its reflection in the
  still water below.
  For a challenging but rewarding climb, go up the 500 steps that twist around
  the peak’s edge at Mua Cave to soak in jaw-dropping, 360-degree views of rice
  paddies, winding rivers and towering karsts fading into the horizon. If you can,
  time it so you reach the top at sunset, where the beauty of the landscape is even
  more pronounced with the sun’s fading light.
  Thung Nham Bird Park, an easy 6km ride from Tam Coc, is a less grueling
  adventure. The gorgeous serene garden features 50,000 birds of over 40 species,
  including some rare breeds that might soon become extinct. The area is also
  home to an orchid garden and several caves.
  Thung Nham Bird Park | quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY IN NINH BINH
  Le Clos du Fil Boutique Hotel & Spa
  A decadent 5-star hotel with locally made decor and simply stunning views. $$
  Tam Coc Banana Bungalow
  This quiet riverside hotel features a variety of rooms, from dorms to family suites. $$
  The Banana Tree Hostel
  A social hub with dorms, a garden overlooking the river and sunset views. $
  MOST UNDERRATED SITES IN TRANG AN
  Tuyet Tin Coc
  Around 500m from Hoa Lu lies a lake surrounded by karst peaks. Take a stroll or cycle,
  pausing to climb the steps to secluded temples and caves.
  Duyen Ninh Pagoda
  This 10th-century pagoda sits 3km from Hoa Lu. As legend has it, a princess and her
  husband made a vow of love here and were later blessed with a son, meaning single
  people and couples flock here to pray for love.
  Chill Cung Nang
  Less than 1km from Trang An wharf, this riverside area offers photo opportunities, bikes
  and kayaks for hire, BBQ feasts and glamping.
  Romance & Adventure
  DISCOVER TRANG AN’S CHARMS
  Often compared to Tam Coc as its smaller, quieter neighbour, Trang An also
  offers boat tours of its picturesque rivers and caves. The tours takes you along
  still waterways lined with lotuses and waterlilies, traverses water-worn grottoes,
  and pauses to explore beautiful temples, ancient trees and an old palace. One of
  the islands, named Kong Island, was a shooting site for the Hollywood
  blockbuster, Kong: Skull Island. The tour takes about 3½ hours, so plan on
  spending a whole morning or afternoon on this excursion.
  Another option is to take yourself down the river in a single or double kayak.
  There are two routes to choose from: the first is an 8km-round trip, while the
  second is 5km long. Should you run into any issues, call the rescue hotline, and
  the motorboat team will assist you if needed.
  Hoa Lu, the country’s very first capital city, is a quick and scenic 20-minute
  car ride from Trang An wharf. Get transported back in time when you pass the
  site’s leaning archways, layered banyan trees and expansive brick courtyards,
  all surrounded by karst mountains, which offered natural protection from
  invaders.
  Ninh Binh | thongnguyengallery/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY IN TRANG AN
  Trang An Ecolodge
  A stay in the jungle with baths built against the side of the mountain. $$
  Trang An Lamia Bungalow
  Cool, eclectic and eco-friendly cabins with gorgeous mountain views and two very cute dogs.
  $$
  Trang An La Casa Homestay
  Clean, comfortable and rural riverside accommodations with stunning sunset views come
  evening time. $
  A Wildlife Haven
  JOURNEY INTO THE WETLANDS
  Also appearing in Kong: Skull Island, Van Long Nature Reserve is a valley
  surrounded by spectacular limestone ranges, located just 20km from Trang An
  wharf. In Vietnamese, van means ‘cloud’ and long means ‘dragon’, and when
  the dragon meets the clouds, locals believe that blessed events will occur.
  It is the largest inland wetland area in the Northern Delta, and was created in
  1960, after the construction of a 30km dike. It was only recently established as a
  reserve – in late 2001. The wildlife haven covers an area of over 3500 hectares,
  with an especially diverse ecosystem. Its waters, caves and surrounding forests
  are home to the critically endangered Delacour’s langur and the Tibetan bear, as
  well as chamois, stump-tailed macaque and around 100 bird species.
  Hop on the boat tour and scan the landscape for exquisite flora and fauna.
  The open water is so clear that you can see layers of moss and algae at the very
  bottom. Hang Ca (Fish Cave) is not to be missed: the cavern is half dry and
  half submerged, with plenty of fish swimming into the grotto.
  The nature reserve is best experienced in May and June, when you’ll see pink
  lotus flowers blooming in the water, as well as from November to April, when
  waterbirds flock to the wetlands to build nests. Tickets are available at the ticket
  booth near where the boats are moored, or through your hotel or tour operator.
  Trang An | quang minh/shutterstock ©
  TAM COC, TRANG AN OR VAN LONG?
  With boat tours offered in all three destinations, it’s difficult to decide which to do and
  where to stay, especially if you’re pressed for time.
  Tam Coc is the most popular and comes with the most amenities. The town centre has
  restaurants, cafes and bars, so it’s better suited for families, big groups and those who
  want to socialise. Trang An is rural and romantic, making it a better option for small
  groups and couples. There is a main street with restaurants, but you’ll most likely opt for
  your host family’s cooking.
  Van Long is remote with fewer tourists – great for those who prefer nature and
  tranquillity.
  WHERE TO STAY IN TRANG AN
  Trang An Aroma Homestay
  Conveniently located property featuring well-appointed and modern rooms with wooden tubs.
  $
  Trang An Hamlet Bungalow
  Clean and basic rooms with immense jungle views in an utterly serene mountainside setting. $
  Trang An Yourhome
  Removed from the main tourism area, with clean rooms, a refreshing pool and billiards. $
  BEST LUXE STAYS IN NINH BINH
  Tam Coc Garden Resort
  An authentic yet upscale getaway in the midst of utterly tranquil rice fields. $$$
  Aravinda Resort
  Romantic, traditional and chic accommodations with cute bathtubs near Thung Nham. $$
  Ninh Binh Hidden Charm
  Spacious rooms and stylish interiors in Tam Coc. Recommended for families and groups.
  $$
  Emeralda Resort
  A sprawling green property with traditional village bungalows situated near Van Long. $$
  The Wooden Gate
  A well-decorated boutique hotel near Hang Mua that exudes vintage jungle vibes. $$
  Mountain-to-Table Eats
  INDULGE IN LOCAL CUISINE
  While Ninh Binh is famous for its beautiful scenery and attraction, its food
  specialities, which reflect the smell and taste of the limestone mountains, rice
  paddies and rivers of the region, are legendary. Start the day off with bun moc, a
  savoury rice noodle soup of pork meatballs and a light broth. Com chay (burnt
  rice) is great for a light snack. The simple dish is made by cooking rice over
  charcoal, then slicing it into thin pieces, drying it in the sun and frying it in hot
  oil until crisp and yellow. Upon serving, the burnt rice is covered with savoury
  toppings or with a dipping sauce. For dinner, start off with cua dong rang la lot
  – roasted freshwater field-crab tossed with crispy betel leaves. The crunchy,
  salty dish makes for a great appetiser and pairs well with cold beer. Thit de
  (goat meat) is a must for your main dish. Goats raised in the karsts of Ninh Binh
  freely graze on the area’s vegetation, making the meat tender and delicious. The
  favourite local goat dish is de tai chanh, rare goat meat tossed with lime,
  lemongrass and other aromatics. Wash your meal down with ruou can nho
  quan, a liquor made from husked rice, tree bark, fruit and leaves.
  Adventurous eaters might give oc nui (mountain snails) a go. A seasonal
  delicacy, snails are harvested in the early mornings during the rainy season. The
  most popular way to prepare them is simply boiling and serving them with fish
  sauce. Also not for the faint of stomach, xoi trung kien is made from ant eggs
  harvested from nests built on the trees of nearby limestone mountains. The
  locals douse the ant nests with warm water and then marinate the eggs in spices
  before cooking. Ba Cua Restaurant in Trang An and Thang Long Restaurant
  near Hoa Lu Ancient Capital both serve a range of the region’s specialities.
  Bun moc | travel brown/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY IN NINH BINH ON A BUDGET
  Tam Coc Westlake Homestay
  Immaculate accommodations and very friendly staff, conveniently located right in the centre
  of town. $
  Mom’s Homestay
  Remote enough for great scenery, yet a short walk from Tam Coc’s main street. $
  Ninh Binh Mountain Side Homestay
  Spotless rooms in a peaceful setting, situated between Trang An and Hang Mua. $
  BEST ORGANISED TOURS OF NINH BINH
  Origin Vietnam Ninh Binh Tours
  This private tour company offers great premade and build-your-own packages, designed
  to give you an authentic view of Ninh Binh.
  Amazing Ninh Binh
  Experience Ninh Binh’s hidden charms with authentic experiences, such as visiting a local
  home and dining with the family. These small tours are capped at nine guests.
  Tours by Locals
  Discover Ninh Binh through the eyes of a local tour guide. All tours are private and can be
  customised to your preferences.
  The Festival of the Year
  CELEBRATE TRUONG YEN FESTIVAL
  Every year Ninh Binh hosts a grand jamboree to celebrate the glory days of Hoa
  Lu, the ancient capital. Truong Yen Festival takes place annually between the
  9th and 11th days of the third lunar month (usually in April). According to
  legend, the local community first organised the festivities in recognition of the
  contributions emperors Dinh Tien Hoang and Le Dai made towards building
  and defending the country.
  Celebrations begin with a water procession, which is led by two rows of
  people on boats hoisting flags, and is followed by an orchestra, a large
  palanquin carried by men dressed in traditional Dinh-dynasty uniform, ‘virgins’
  bearing offerings, as well as elders, local people and any tourists who are brave
  enough to want to join in. When the water procession returns to centre stage, the
  sacrificial ceremony starts, where revellers praise the merits of the two great
  emperors and burn incense to worship and give thanks. Other festival activities
  include boat racing, dragon dancing, sword dancing and wrestling. Just a few
  days later, on the 18th day of the third lunar month (again, usually in April),
  Trang An holds a festival in honour of Quy Minh Dai Vuong, the saint who
  defended Ninh Binh during the Hung dynasty. On this day, the locals pray for
  health and prosperity, and the quiet waters in town spring to life with colourful
  floating processions and musical performances.
  WILDLIFE ADVENTURES
  Animal lovers should do the night tour at Cuc Phuong National Park to get up close and
  personal with the shy critters that prefer the protective veil of darkness.
  GETTING AROUND
  Most travellers get to Ninh Binh from Hanoi via buses, luxury van or private car. Once there
  you can get around most of Tam Coc and Trang An on a bicycle, but you’ll need to rent a
  motorbike, hire a car or book a tour to explore the major attractions and sites that are out
  of pedaling reach.
  Beyond Ninh Binh
  Heading away from Ninh Binh’s more popular areas provides an
  experience that’s even closer to nature, and to the locals.
  The first national park and nature reserve in Vietnam, Cuc Phuong National
  Park covers 25,000 hectares and serves as home for ethnic Muong tribes, and a
  habitat for some of the continent’s rarest plant and animal species. The ‘green
  lung of northern Vietnam’ is about 50km from both Tam Coc and Trang An.
  A three-hour drive from Cuc Phuong National Park, and just under a fivehour
  drive if you’re coming from Hanoi, Pu Luong is a vast, sparsely inhabited
  area that is home to quaint villages and hamlets, hill tribes, primary forests with
  diverse flora and fauna, and terraced fields of rice. In the ethnic Thai language,
  Pu Luong means ‘the highest mountain peak’.
  A turtle in Cuc Phuong National Park | heck61/shutterstock ©
  TOP TIP
  Visit Cuc Phuong from January to April for bird-watching, or go mid-April to early May for the
  butterfly season.
  Where the Wild Things Are
  IMMERSE YOURSELF IN THE JUNGLE
  Once you arrive at Cuc Phuong National Park, start at the visitor’s centre to get
  a good foundation for the national park before heading to the Endangered
  Primate Rescue Center to learn about the rescue, rehabilitation and
  conservation of Vietnam’s rare primates. Get up close and personal with rescued
  turtles at the Turtle Conservation Centre and stop by the Botanical Garden
  for an introduction to the area’s flora. Armed with all this information, visitors
  can better appreciate what the national park has to offer.
  Trek or cycle on trails that take you through the forest to ancient trees, some
  of which are more than 1000 years old. Kayak at Mac Lake or Yen Quang
  Lake. Explore one of the many caves inside the forest, including Con Moong
  Cave (Beast Cave), where ancient people lived, and Dong Nguoi Xua (Cave of
  Prehistoric Man), where there are prehistoric remnants.
  The highest mountain in Cuc Phuong, Silver Cloud Peak, can be conquered
  with the help of a park ranger guide. Most climb the 648m peak in
  approximately two hours and are rewarded with exhilarating views of the forest,
  the ancient capital of Hao Lu and the Bai Dinh Pagoda.
  If you want to stay overnight in Cuc Phuong, book a room, bungalow or stilt
  house from the national park’s website, and go on the wildlife night tour to
  catch a glimpse of shy critters that are more active in the dark.
  A rescued red-shanked douc langur | marie martin/shutterstock ©
  BAI DINH PAGODA
  A 700-hectare Buddhist complex with a temple, and newer structures built between 2003
  and 2010. Located 20km outside Ninh Binh, Bai Dinh Pagoda is the largest complex of
  Buddhist temples in Vietnam.
  Admire Buddha statues and ornaments as you climb 300 steps to the age-old temple
  hidden inside eerie caves; gaze up at the giant bronze Buddha in the great hall; go up the
  13-storey watchtower for views of the surrounding landscape.
  The pagoda hosts a festival on the sixth day of the first lunar month (roughly the end of
  January), where a vast number of followers make the pilgrimage to the complex to witness
  the performance of Buddhist rites.
  WHERE TO STAY NEAR CUC PHUONG
  Bai Dinh Riverside Resort & Spa
  This new hotel provides clean rooms, good food, a refreshing pool and stunning views. $$
  Vedana Resort
  Well-designed and modern accommodations, with lots of creative architecture just outside of
  Cuc Phuong. $$
  Cuc Phuong Resort & Villas
  A sprawling resort that boasts both bungalows and villas featuring in-room wooden bathtubs.
  $$
  BEST LOCAL FOOD SPECIALITIES
  Co Lung Duck
  This free-range, tasty duck is even more tender when stuffed with jungle herbs and spices.
  Hill Chicken
  Enjoy it marinated in traditional, ethnic Thai spices and then boiled for a unique, subtle
  flavor.
  Grilled Fish
  Marinated with forest seasonings, this dish is roasted on red-hot embers.
  Bamboo Shoots
  Naturally bitter, wild bamboo shoots take on a sweet flavour when cooked in local
  seasonings.
  Bamboo-Tube Rice
  Fragrant sticky rice cooked with sweet forest water in bamboo tubes.
  Hidden in the Mountains
  A REMOTE AND AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCE
  In Pu Luong, ethnic villages are few and far between, making a trip to one of
  these secluded hamlets a challenging yet rewarding endeavor. One of the most
  spectacular hikes starts from Hieu Village, famed for its traditional stilt houses,
  and ends at Kho Muong, a remote Thai settlement. The trek between these two
  small towns undulates in elevation, with gorgeous mountain, forest and terrace
  scenes.
  If you’re into more challenging treks, try conquering the towering Pu Luong
  Mountain Peak. At 1700m high, it takes most people between six and eight
  hours to reach the top (in good weather conditions). Set up camp, overnight at
  the summit and wake for sunrise before making your way down the mountain
  the next day.
  Go spelunking in Bat Cave, formed around 250 million years ago with a
  2.5km underground river system and four different species of bats. Take a
  refreshing dip at the bottom of Hieu Waterfall, a series of five cascades within
  a 1km span of the river. And if you’re in Pu Luong on Thursday or Sunday, hit
  up Pho Doan Market for some handmade wares and food products from local
  hill tribes.
  The best time to visit Pu Luong is late May to early June, when the terraces
  are covered in green young rice. While this time of year is quite hot in most
  areas of Vietnam, Pu Luong maintains a comfortable temperature throughout
  the summer. September through October is another great time to visit, as the
  rice terraces turn a glorious shade of yellow just before harvest.
  WHERE TO STAY IN PU LUONG
  Puluong Bocbandi Retreat
  A beautiful resort with hillside rooms boasting majestic terrace and mountain views. $$
  Pu Luong Tree House
  A rustic, sustainable retreat with cute and cosy bungalows, and a stunning freshwater pool. $$
  Duy Phuong Homestay
  An authentic, simple and budget-friendly stay with an ethnic family near Hieu Waterfall. $
  Mingle with the Hill Tribes
  PU LUONG’S VILLAGES
  Pu Luong Nature Reserve is in a truly spectacular location, sitting along two
  parallel mountain ranges, with dipping valleys throughout. For hundreds of
  years, 24 different Thai and Muong hill tribes have called this area home.
  Made up of 65 families and over 300 individuals, Kho Muong is an isolated
  White Thai village in a wild valley with a natural cave and stream system. It
  was founded some 300 years ago and is believed to be the first settlement in the
  Pu Luong region. Trekking here takes between three and six days.
  Sporting traditional wooden houses on stilts, Hieu Village is a Black Thai
  settlement that lies in a truly lush jungle valley along a cascading stream.
  Admire the water wheels at the village entrance, bathe in the village spring or
  hike one hour to the top of Hieu Waterfall to take in gorgeous panoramic views
  and explore hidden caves. It’s a 7km scenic trek from the main road to Hieu
  Village.
  Located 1180m above sea level, Son-Ba-Muoi is a trio of Thai highland
  villages that are also known as ‘mini Sapa’ for their moderate year-round
  climate. Far removed from the outside world, the three settlements have
  retained much of the ancient Thai ethnic culture, from the dwellings to the
  cuisine and customs. The winding mountain road leading to Son-Ba-Muoi is
  challenging, but worth the adventure.
  Home to less than 300 Thai minority individuals, Don Village features
  endless terraces, wild scenery, and warm and generous people. Make sure to
  visit Pho Don Fair on Sunday or Thursday for ethnic crafts and other local
  specialities. Don Village is located near the main highway and is the starting
  point for most Pu Luong tours.
  Hieu Waterfall | tran qui thinh/shutterstock ©
  HIEU WATERFALL
  Hieu Village is tiny and yet boasts an impressive collection of five cascades with more than
  100 houses scattered on both sides of the river. The flow carries with it lime-rich soil, so
  the banks of the waterway look petrified. In the summer, the water is clear, cool and
  pleasant. In the wet season, it turns fierce and white with dissolved limestone. After the
  rain, Hieu Waterfall is gentle and blue again.
  Set aside one hour to climb to the top of the waterfall and admire peak views of the
  mountains, clouds and village below. Hidden behind the waterfall are natural caves. Love
  Cave is especially spectacular, with shimmering stalactites in a range of colours.
  GETTING AROUND
  You’ll need a car or motorbike to get to Cuc Phuong National Park or Pu Luong. But once
  there, you can easily trek, cycle or motorbike your way around.
  PHONG NHA
  Until a few years ago, Phong Nha wasn’t on any traveller’s radar, but the
  discovery of Son Doong, the world’s largest cave, has put the spotlight on the
  sleepy village resting on the banks of the Son River. While the caves may be
  Phong Nha’s claim to fame, the hiking trails, rural paths and cool rivers also
  captivate.
  During the American War, Phong Nha was one of the most ravaged parts of
  the country. Because of its location on the Ho Chi Minh Trail, the village
  endured regular bombings and the locals would flee to the caves for shelter.
  After reunification, Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park was formally
  declared a nature reserve and subsequently protected. The Unesco World
  Heritage Site is a large swathe of land filled with jungle-clad mountains and
  beautiful blue rivers snaking between ancient karsts. It is home to hundreds of
  caves, ethnic groups and endangered wildlife.
  HIGHLIGHTS
  1 Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park
  SIGHTS
  2 Bong Lai Bridge
  3 Di Di Thoi
  4 Paradise Cave
  5 Son River
  6 The Duck Stop
  ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS
  7 Dark Cave
  8 Eight Ladies Cave
  9 Mooc Spring
  10 Oxalis Adventure Tours
  11 Son Doong Cave
  SLEEPING
  12 Blue Diamond Camp
  13 Chay Lap Farmstay
  14 Ho Khanh Homestay
  15 Oxalis Home
  16 Pepper House
  17 Victory Road Villas
  EATING
  18 Bong Lai Swing Nature Farm
  19 Chay Lap Riverside Cafe
  20 Nha Hang Suoi Mooc
  21 O O Lake Silence
  22 Pub with Cold Beer
  ENTERTAINMENT
  23 OZO Park
  INFORMATION
  24 Phong Nha Tourism Center
  TOP TIP
  Rainy season in Phong Nha starts around mid-September to mid-November. The town may
  experience flooding, and some attractions and tour providers will pause operations during this
  time. It’s best to check with your accommodation and tour operator of choice before you make
  your booking to see what’s available.
  BEST RESTAURANTS IN PHONG NHA
  Thang Nhung Spit Roast Pork & Noodle
  A great place that roasts pork out front. $
  Phong Nha Bamboo Cafe
  An establishment on the main street with lots of options. $
  Tree House Cafe & Restaurant
  The pizza here is a crowd favourite, as are the breakfasts. $$
  The Villas Restaurant
  Breakfast served by the riverside at Victory Road Villas. $$
  Phong Nha Vegan
  Get the wallet-friendly dinner buffet, available on the 1st and 15th of each lunar month. $
  Spelunk to Your Heart’s Content
  DISCOVER MAJESTIC CAVES
  Riddled with deep, mysterious caves and beautiful blue rivers meandering
  through verdant mountains, Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is a paradise for
  nature lovers and adventurers. The main attraction of the Unesco World
  Heritage Site is its colossal caves, chiseled by floodwaters over the course of
  millions of years.
  Only reachable by boat, Phong Nha Cave lies in the Son River, where the
  water flows underground for 1.5km through 14 chambers. Tickets can be
  purchased from Phong Nha Tourism Center, where the boats also depart. If
  you want to skip the crowds, book a kayak tour instead.
  Driving through the national park, you’ll first encounter Eight Ladies Cave,
  named after the eight young women and men who took shelter inside and were
  subsequently trapped after the entrance collapsed during a bomb strike in 1972.
  A temple next to the cave pays tribute to the victims.
  From there, Paradise Cave, a 31km dry passage of the Vom Cave system, is
  just 11km away. Visitors can explore the first kilometre of the cavern by going
  up a long set of steps and then following a wooden boardwalk.
  For a more thrilling excursion, head to Dark Cave, 8km down the road, with
  kayaking, zip lining, mudbaths and a refreshing swim. Make sure to bring a
  towel and a change of clothes with you. Other caves, like the world’s largest,
  Son Doong, lie scattered across the national park, but you must join an
  organised tour to see them. An overnighter is highly recommended to enjoy the
  serenity of the wild jungle at night.
  WHERE TO STAY IN PHONG NHA
  Victory Road Villas
  Boutique, riverfront retreat with gorgeous soaking tubs, a sauna, swimming pool and billiard
  table. $$$
  Ho Khanh Homestay
  Modest digs on the banks of Son River, hosted by the man who discovered Son Doong. $
  Central Backpackers Hostel
  Dorms, private rooms and bungalows with a swimming pool, located on the town’s main street.
  $
  BEST CAVE TOURS IN PHONG NHA
  Oxalis Adventure Tours
  This was the first adventure tour company to provide caving experiences in Phong Nha,
  and the only company to offer tours of the mighty Son Doong.
  Jungle Boss Adventure Tours
  A professional tour operator with a variety of jungle treks, from family-friendly excursions
  and glamping trips to thrilling and adrenaline-inducing adventures.
  Phongnha Discovery
  This tour-company veteran offers day trips to a host of Phong Nha’s most popular
  attractions, including Paradise Cave, Phong Nha Cave and Dark Cave.
  A Rural Adventure
  EXPLORE SCENIC COUNTRY LIFE
  Bong Lai Valley is home to small villages and farms, with some of them
  catering to wandering visitors in search of refreshment. The loop starts 7km
  from the main street in Phong Nha and spans 15km. All you need is a bike or
  motorbike and a map. Take your time, revel in the surroundings and fall in love
  with this charming river valley.
  Make your first stop at a local farm, the Duck Stop. The owner offers a
  glimpse into his childhood by giving you a hands-on lesson in tending to his
  ducks and water buffalo. While you’re there, pick some of his Phong Nha black
  pepper, which makes for a great souvenir.
  Further down the road, Pub with Cold Beer serves (you guessed it!) cold
  beer. It was established back in 2010 when cold drinks were hard to come by.
  Soak in the views on one of the hammocks or rent a tube to float down the river.
  Delicious farm-to-table food is also available, but you might want to save your
  appetite for Bong Lai Swing Nature Farm. The family here raises wild boar
  and crickets and serves grilled pork with peanut sauce and homemade liquor. Its
  claim to fame, however, is the swing off a high ledge that offers fantastic river
  and valley views.
  After trying the thrilling swing, head towards Pub with Cold Beer and cross
  Bong Lai Bridge to take a different route back to the highway. Stop at Pepper
  House Homestay for a beer and a dip in the pool before calling it a day.
  Phong Nha Cave | vietnam stock images/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY IN PHONG NHA’S COUNTRYSIDE
  Phong Nha Lake House Resort
  A peaceful lakeside getaway with a pool and restaurant, 8km from the town’s entrance. $$
  Chay Lap Farmstay
  Rooms and bungalows deep in the countryside with riverside access and herbal saunas. $$
  Phong Nha Farmstay
  A rural retreat with French colonial architecture, Western comforts and gorgeous sunset views.
  $$
  WHY I LOVE PHONG NHA
  Diana Truong, Lonely Planet writer
  @andsoigo
  I love adventures, and Phong Nha is filled with them. But it’s not just the jungle, caves and
  rivers that bring me back again and again to this tucked-away village. Every time I visit, I
  stay with the same family, who treats me like a sister, picking me up from the train station
  with the kids in tow, insisting that I eat yet another bowl of rice at dinner and video-calling
  me after I leave, asking when I’ll visit again. It’s the wildness of the land combined with the
  warmth of its people that has stolen my heart.
  Don’t Go Chasing Waterfalls
  THE RIVERS OF PHONG NHA
  With rivers and lakes all around, Phong Nha offers plenty of ways to escape the
  tropical heat. Son River runs along the length of town and is the most easily
  accessible. Several of the homestays along Highway 20 have riverside access,
  including Victory Road Villas and Oxalis Home, both of which also rent
  kayaks. If you want to release your inner child, head to Ho Khanh Homestay,
  with a long concrete slide that launches you into the river.
  Near Bong Lai Valley, O O Lake Silence allows visitors to swim in the large
  body of water out front, with kayaks and simple bamboo rafts for hire. The site
  also serves food and drinks and has many cute corners to explore. With
  riverside access in a remote area of Phong Nha, Chay Lap Farmstay offers a
  more serene and secluded experience. Choose from kayaking and stand-up
  paddleboarding (SUPing), or float down the river on a cruise with sister
  company Di Di Thoi. Lounge on bean bags spread over a wooden deck and
  nosh on food and drinks from the Chay Lap Riverside Cafe.
  Phong Nha town and the Son River | soft_light/shuttestock ©
  Nestled under the shade of the forest, Mooc Spring is a recreational area
  with clear blue water for swimming, kayaking and water games. Located at the
  edge of the national park, it’s a refreshing finish to a day of sightseeing.
  Also within the national park, OZO Park features 16 high-rope and obstacle
  courses as well as zip lining and mountain biking. Local food is served on-site,
  and camping is available.
  Mooc Spring | loner nguyen/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY IN PHONG NHA’S COUNTRYSIDE
  Pepper House Homestay
  Rustic comforts in Bong Lai Valley with spacious rooms overlooking the courtyard and pool. $
  Phong Nha Eco Mountain Farmstay
  Peaceful accommodations near the national park entrance with gorgeous mountain views. $
  Nguyen Shack – Phong Nha Eco Resort
  Bohemian bungalows 2km from the town’s entrance, with a boat-like pool. $
  THE BOTANIC GARDEN
  The Botanic Garden inside Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park gets you off the road and
  into the jungle. The attraction spans over 40 hectares and is home to more than 500 plant
  species. Walk on shaded, quiet paths, admire the bounty of flora, discover native animals
  at the wildlife enclosure, gaze at the gushing Thac Gio Waterfall and swim in the tranquil
  Vang Anh Lake. Three trails are on offer, ranging from 40 minutes to three hours. A
  guided plant tour is available for the 3km trail.
  The Ultimate Eco-Friendly Stay
  BY ADVENTURE TOUR POWERHOUSE OXALIS
  Located in the midst of an old rubber forest within the national park, Oxalis’s
  Blue Diamond Camp is a wild resort that takes sustainability to heart. The
  retreat’s LED lights run on solar energy, and the ten-person boat is powered by
  passenger-generated wind. Suspension bridges that run 770m long and connect
  the nine campsites are built above the ground to avoid destruction of the forest
  flora. Cleverly, the system also helps guests avoid the mud when it rains.
  But perhaps the most innovative eco-friendly feature is the camp’s cooling
  system, simulating the cooling mechanism inside natural limestone caves:
  insulated pipes connect underground, from cold water cellars to each of the tent
  locations, bringing cool air to the campsite. So you can sleep at night in relative
  comfort.
  A river nearby offers opportunities to swim, kayak and SUP. A water swing,
  slides and floats add to the fun. There’s also an impressive underground
  swimming pool modelled after the underground river systems inside caves,
  complete with three openings that mimic sinkholes to let in the sunlight.
  When darkness falls, the suspension bridge lights up beautifully for 30
  minutes. Plan to stay overnight and enjoy a delicious barbecue feast by the
  campfire along with entertaining group activities.
  WHERE TO STAY WITH LOCALS IN PHONG NHA
  Phong Nha River House
  A five-room riverside homestay run by a friendly family, located 3km from the town’s main
  street. $
  Jungle Boss Homestay
  A rural getaway with a swimming pool from the man who started Jungle Boss Adventure Tours.
  $
  Sy’s Homestay
  Beautiful location among the rice fields with a pool, just 1km from the town’s entrance. $
  4WD & URAL TOURS
  Explore Phong Nha in style with an old army jeep or a Russian Ural motorcycle and
  sidecar. The English-speaking driver and guide will whisk you away on a customised
  adventure and share their knowledge of the area, its people and its history. Choose from a
  range of destinations, from national park attractions to Bong Lai Valley and more.
  Bookings are available through Victory Road Villas.
  Flavours of the Mountain
  SAVOUR REGIONAL CUISINE
  Phong Nha’s mountains and rivers are the sources of the fresh ingredients used
  in its local cuisine. Take a bite, close your eyes and let these flavours transport
  you to the jungle.
  Although named ‘porridge soup’, chao canh is not porridge. It’s made with
  thick noodles, fish, shrimp and pork. Upon serving, the dish is sprinkled with
  sliced green onions and chopped coriander and served with a side of shredded
  greens. Quan Chao Canh, located on the Son River, serves this speciality, but
  come early as it is a breakfast dish.
  Many of the area’s restaurants, such as Ho Moc Phong Nha and Nha Hang
  Suoi Mooc, serve whole chicken, butterflied flat and roasted over hot coals. The
  dish often comes with sticky rice sprinkled with chopped peanuts and a
  delicious dipping sauce locally known as cham cheo. The grilled chicken, ga
  nuong, is often made to order, and takes quite some time to prepare, so nosh on
  an appetiser or two while you wait for the main dish.
  A fish from the clear blue waters of the streams in the jungle, ca mat is fried
  crisp and served with a fish sauce made with garlic, ginger and chilli. The fish is
  only available two to three months out of the year. Rau ton is an edible fern that,
  when sauteed, takes on a sumptuously nutty flavour. The plant cannot be
  domesticated, growing only on the banks of streams in the jungle.
  GETTING AROUND
  The best way to experience Phong Nha is on two wheels. Bicycle and motorbike rentals
  are available all over town, and the staff at your hotel can easily sort it out for you. Or just
  book a motorbike driver, locally referred to as xe om.
  Beyond Phong Nha
  Modern amenities and fresh seafood await in Dong Hoi, the capital of
  Quang Binh province and Phong Nha’s urban neighbour.
  Known as the City of Roses, Dong Hoi suffered during the American War due
  to its proximity to the DMZ. In 1965, American pilots destroyed the city, and
  the only things left standing were Quang Binh Gate, Tam Toa Church, a water
  tower and a single palm tree. The ruins of the gate and the church are left
  standing to this day, a symbol of Dong Hoi’s resilience.
  The popularity of Phong Nha has helped Dong Hoi rise from the ashes. With
  an airport and train station, the city serves as the gateway to the national park.
  Dong Hoi | loner nguyen/shutterstock ©
  TOP TIP
  If you’re short on time, plan on staying in Dong Hoi and make an easy day trip to the caves.
  BEST RESTAURANTS IN DONG HOI
  Nha Hang Sabochi Tue Lam
  A kid-friendly Vietnamese restaurant with an open garden area. Great for large groups. $$
  Sophie Homy Cafe & Food
  A friendly family establishment by the train station with motorbike rentals and luggage
  storage. $
  Tree Hugger Cafe
  A picturesque breakfast cafe across from Nhat Le Park with egg sandwiches and smoothie
  bowls. $$
  7th Heaven Restaurant
  Asian and Western fare served by attentive staff in a cosy atmosphere near Nhat Le Park.
  $$
  Sand & Sea
  DONG HOI’S PRISTINE BEACHES
  Like most of central Vietnam’s coast, east of Dong Hoi is lined with idyllic
  stretches of shoreline. Nhat Le Beach is the closest to the city, with 12km of
  powdery-soft white sand, blue sea and plenty of seafood eateries to choose
  from. According to legend, Nhat Le, meaning ‘Beauty and Sadness’, was named
  after the tears of southern immigrants that flowed when remembering their
  homeland to the north. The ‘tears’ flow down into the rivers that eventually
  empty into the South China Sea.
  Bao Ninh Peninsula sits south of Nhat Le Beach, across Nhat Le Bridge,
  and boasts coconut trees for shade and plenty of watersports and beach games.
  Many of the more luxurious accommodations are located here, such as Sun Spa
  Resort and Regal Collection House. The Fishing Festival of Bao Ninh is held
  annually on the full moon in April, when fishers and their families come
  together to pay tribute to the whale god in hopes of abundant fish, favourable
  weather and protection at sea.
  Go north of Nhat Le Beach for a thrilling excursion at the Quang Phu Sand
  Dunes. Rent an ATV to go exploring, or get a board to slide down the sand
  dunes. Head there before dawn to enjoy the dunes without the crowds and to
  catch a glorious sunrise. If you’ve got time, make the drive 25km north of Dong
  Hoi to explore Bai Da Nhay (Jumping Rock Beach). The unique coast is filled
  with towering rock formations that protrude from the sand and the sea, making
  for an incredible landscape.
  Bao Ninh Peninsula | loner nguyen/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY IN DONG HOI
  Sun Spa Resort
  Five-star rooms and villas on 29 hectares with private access to Bao Ninh Beach. $$
  CAGINA Boutique Hostel
  Well-designed dorms and private rooms with a garden and cafe close to Nhat Le Beach. $
  Beachside Backpackers
  Budget dorms and private rooms with a lovely seaview terrace, right on Nhat Le beach. $
  BIKE TOUR
  Explore Dong Hoi and its surroundings on a bike tour and experience this small city much
  like the locals would. From Nhat Le Beach, cycle to see the remnants of Tam Toa Church,
  then cross Nhat Le Bridge to enter Bao Ninh, a pastoral fishing area. Turn immediately
  on to Nhat Le Street, which runs along the Nhat Le River. Head as far as the road will
  take you before turning left and going straight to the beach. To head back to the city, take
  the beach road back to Nhat Le Bridge.
  For an organised bike tour with a guide, book the Dong Hoi Bicycle Tour with Viator.
  The City Sites
  DONG HOI’S HISTORY AND CULTURE
  Located in the heart of Dong Hoi along the Nhat Le River is the dominating
  Citadel, a former fortress built by Gia Long in 1812 that protected the Nguyen
  dynasty. Minh Mang, Gia Long’s successor, asked a French general to
  reconstruct the Citadel. The result was an impenetrable fortress in the likeness
  of a star. Enter through the East Gate near the river’s edge, stroll along the moat
  and soak in the surroundings.
  Quang Binh Museum lies within the Citadel. The attraction is free and
  covers the history, culture and people of the province. Peruse over 15,000
  pictures and artefacts from different periods, all the way back to the Stone Age.
  Built during the late 19th century, Tam Toa Church was an iconic Catholic
  chapel that was later destroyed in the American War. All that remains is its
  devastated facade with a bell tower and a portion of the wall, an eerie yet
  beautiful remnant of the conflict.
  The largest and most exquisite pagoda in Dong Hoi, Dai Giac Temple is a
  solemn, spiritual site covering an extensive area with a marble Buddha statue
  weighing 40 tons and an ornate, nine-storey tower. The complex is often visited
  by locals and Buddhists seeking peace and serenity.
  Because it’s a port city, you can easily get your hands on local fish, and the
  best place to get quality fare is at the Dong Hoi Fish Market, which supplies
  seafood for the whole Quang Binh province. Arrive before sunrise to see
  vendors unloading the night’s catch and nab the freshest seafood on offer.
  Tam Toa Church, Dong Hoi | tom duy/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO RELAX IN DONG HOI
  La Bella Spa
  A beautiful retreat inside Sun Spa Resort offering massages, milk baths and facials.
  Gold Coast Resort & Spa
  A Jimjilbang-inspired spa at Bao Ninh Beach, with different types of saunas and massages.
  Asena Spa
  A medical spa near the Citadel with therapeutic massages, rejuvenating facials and more.
  EVERLAND QUANG BINH
  An amusement park on the banks of Cau Rao River, Everland Quang Binh is an all-in-one,
  family-friendly destination with thrilling rides, fun arcade games, a lively night market and
  plenty of retail options. The star of the show, however, is the main restaurant, boasting
  beautiful bamboo architecture and a koi pond in a lush and airy green space. It has the
  capacity to accommodate large groups, with seating for over 1000 guests. The massive
  menu covers the three regions of Vietnam – north, central and south – as well as worldcuisine
  favourites like salad, pasta, steak, sushi and more. After dinner, head to the
  spacious garden cafe next to the restaurant for a post-dinner cocktail.
  The City by Night
  STAY UP WITH THE LOCALS
  Phong Nha doesn’t offer much when it comes to nighttime activities. So if
  you’re in Dong Hoi after dark, and you’ve got a thirst for nightlife, you’re in
  luck. The city is still largely devoid of foreigners, so expect an evening out
  rubbing elbows with the locals.
  At Bao Ninh Beach, grab a drink and relax at Fisherman Beach Bar, a cute
  shorefront shack, before heading back to your hotel and getting ready for the
  night. For pre-dinner drinks, Pi’s House Coffee – Beer Chill, just north of Nhat
  Le Park, boasts a relaxed atmosphere and a range of craft beer. After that, go to
  ATARA Pub, an open-air riverside restaurant with music, beer and great
  people-watching. Or, if you’ve got a hankering for Western fare, Buffalo Pub
  & Hostel is a lively Nhat Le Park joint with classic American food, beer, wine
  and spirits. Another option is the night market inEverland, with stalls serving
  a range of local delicacies.
  Once you’ve satisfied your hunger, Andy Lounge Disco, a low-key, eclectic
  watering hole near Nhat Le Park, is a good choice for cocktails with occasional
  live music. Chat with the lovely owner for tips on the area and easily make
  friends with the other patrons. A night in Vietnam is not complete without some
  karaoke. Karaoke Thai Binh is a local favourite, with luxury rooms, cold
  drinks and snacks on offer. End your night at Kyoto Lounge, a vibrant
  Japanese-inspired club open until 2.30am, with nightly DJs, a state-of-the-art
  sound system, tasty drinks and a raucous atmosphere.
  GETTING AROUND
  Dong Hoi can easily be explored by bicycle, with most attractions within pedaling distance.
  You can also motorbike around, or hire a motorbike or car driver via one of the ride-hailing
  apps to take you where you want to go.
  HUE
  Hue is a modern city of over half a million people with forested surroundings
  and ancient charms. At its heart is the majestic Imperial City, from which the
  emperors of the Nguyen dynasty ruled their empire for 143 years. Gia Long, the
  first Nguyen emperor, chose Hue as his capital with the guidance of experts in
  geomancy, a spiritual science that relies on good omens in natural settings: the
  Perfume River (or Huong River), which resembles a snake, and the mountains
  around, which look like lions, were seen as sure safeguards for the would-be
  capital.
  After the Nguyen dynasty fell, the city became ravaged during the First
  Indochina War and the 1968 Tet Offensive of the American War. Many of the
  royal buildings, Buddhist shrines and museums were damaged. Today, the ageold
  Perfume River and the remnants of the last dynasty of Vietnam sit
  unperturbed by the city’s fast-paced urbanisation.
  HIGHLIGHTS
  1 Imperial City
  2 Thien Mu Pagoda
  SIGHTS
  3 Khai Dinh’s Tomb
  4 Con Da Vien
  5 Con Hen
  6 Hon Chen Temple
  7 Minh Mang’s Tomb
  8 Perfume River
  9 Thieu Tri’s Tomb
  10 Tiger Arena
  11 Tomb of Tu Duc
  12 Tu Hieu Pagoda
  EATING
  13 Phu Hoi
  ENTERTAINMENT
  14 Royal Theatre
  TOP TIP
  While the old city and the Citadel sit to the north of the Perfume River, the ‘newer’ part of Hue
  lies to the south, where you’ll find most of the hotels and restaurants. Many of the Nguyen
  dynasty’s royal tombs are even further south, on the outskirts of the city.
  BEST RESTAURANTS IN HUE
  Ancient Hue Royal Gallery Cuisine
  An upscale dining experience with royal cuisine at Ancient Hue Garden Houses. $$$
  Hanh Restaurant
  A popular eatery in touristy Phu Hoi serving authentic local dishes. $
  Nook Eatery
  World eats with vegetarian options in a colourful, casual environment. $$
  Imperial Craft Bia Brewpub
  Casual pub with craft beer on tap, as well as pizza, burgers and more. $$
  If Walls Could Talk
  GLIMPSE ANCIENT ROYAL LIFE
  A Unesco World Heritage Site, the Imperial City of Hue is a massive complex
  enclosed within a square fortress. The four perimeter walls are about 2km long
  and 6m high, with a wide moat outside offering further protection.
  Envisioned by the first Nguyen emperor, Gia Long, and completed by Minh
  Mang, his successor, the Imperial City served as the capital of Vietnam from
  1802 to 1945 and consisted of palaces, temples, residences, gardens and offices.
  The most important part, the Forbidden Purple City, was where the emperor and
  his closest advisors lived and worked.
  The Imperial City has seen better days. While time and natural disasters have
  taken their toll on the site, it was the American War that caused the most
  damage. In 1968, during the Tet Offensive, the North Vietnamese Army
  attacked Hue, and the Viet Cong, with their allies, responded by dropping
  bombs. Very few of the significant buildings survived the battle, but many of
  the structures have slowly been restored since, continuing until this day.
  With the size of the complex and the many sections to explore, walking
  through the Imperial City takes quite some time – about two hours on your own
  and longer with a guide. Besides meandering among the structures that remain,
  visitors can also enjoy traditional music, dance and classical drama shows at the
  Royal Theatre.
  ROYAL RESTING PLACES
  The Nguyen emperors ruled from within the safe boundaries of the Imperial City, and yet
  their burial sites lie in wooded nature, far from their opulent palace. Dive into the royal
  tombs and discover how each tomb is a reflection of its occupant.
  WHERE TO STAY IN HUE
  Melia Vinpearl Hue
  The tallest hotel in Hue overlooks the beautiful Perfume River at a convenient location. $$
  EMM Hotel Hue
  Chic boutique accommodations just beyond Phu Hoi with a pool and lush garden setting. $
  Hue Sweethouse 2 Homestay
  Clean, comfortable and cosy rooms centrally located in the very heart of vibrant Hue. $
  PERFUME RIVER CRUISES
  Head to the boats moored to the southeast of Truong Tien Bridge, next to the park. Pick a
  boat and tell the owner where you want to go. Routes are customised to your liking, so
  long as they’re river-accessible.
  Ca Hue Cruise
  After sunset, Ca Hue Cruises leave the riverbank for a special evening of traditional music
  and folk entertainment. The weather is cooler at this time of the day, and the waterway
  shimmers in the dark.
  Azerai Perfume River Dinner Cruise
  A fine-dining experience in a sophisticated atmosphere: sip on champagne as the sun
  sets, choose from a variety of different cuisines and end the evening by releasing a
  candlelit lantern over the river.
  Down by the River
  THE BEST WAY TO SEE HUE
  The 80km-long Perfume River divides Hue, with many tributaries splitting off
  throughout the city. The locals have different stories about how the river’s name
  came about. One explains that its name is derived from the orchard flowers that
  cover the waterway in the autumn, giving off a delightful aroma. Another
  recounts that the name originated from the nice scent that arose when locals
  poured herbed waters into the river during a festival. It’s also known as the
  Huong River, with huong meaning ‘perfume’ or ‘incense’ in Vietnamese.
  The banks of the river are lined with wooded hills, traditional villages,
  emperors’ tombs, temples and fortresses, and parks and promenades. It has a
  green hue in the morning that magically turns yellow around noon, and purple
  later in the afternoon. Take a boat trip for scenic views and visit the royal tombs
  and pagodas scattered along the riverbanks. For the best view of the river, make
  a stop at Thien Mu Pagoda, or get refreshments at one of the many cafes and
  restaurants on the riverbank. The Imperial City is accessible by boat, as is the
  royal tomb of Minh Mang and the Hon Chen Temple, which was originally
  constructed to honour a Cham goddess.
  The two islands in the river, Con Hen and Con Da Vien, are said to shield
  the Imperial City from evil spirits. Con Hen (Clam Island) is famous for its
  tasty clams, a local food speciality. The smaller and uninhabited Con Da Vien
  was once home to the Tiger Arena, where the first fights between tiger and
  elephant were held. Later, Tu Duc constructed a landscaped garden there. At
  sunset, stroll on the walking paths and pedestrian wooden bridges along the
  river, which is lined with large trees and blooming flowers.
  The Imperial City of Hue | nguyen quang ngoc tonkin/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO EAT HUE SPECIALITIES
  Quan Cam
  Popular stall in Phu Hoi that serves bun bo hue, only available in the morning. $
  Tai Phu
  A crowded local restaurant for bun thit nuong, nem lui and other Hue foods. $
  Com Hen – Quan Nho
  A local joint just beyond Phu Hoi that specialises in com hen and bun hen. $
  HUDA BEER
  Like the cuisine in Vietnam, regional diversity exists among the country’s beer brands.
  There’s Truc Bach in Hanoi, and 333 in Ho Chi Minh City. However, locals don’t usually
  claim loyalty to a specific beer, even if it’s brewed in their backyard. This is not the case in
  Hue.
  Huda is brewed in Hue and is the local people’s favourite beer. Established in the city in
  1992, the beer’s name comes from the brewery’s Danish technology. ‘Hu’ stands for Hue,
  while ‘da’ stands for Denmark. In 1994, when the trade embargo on Vietnam lifted,
  Carlsberg invested in Huda. The brewery now produces its own brand, as well as
  Carlsberg, Kronenbourg 1664, Festival beer, and Beerlao.
  A Holy Place
  EXPLORE ANCIENT PAGODAS
  Thien Mu Pagoda means ‘Heavenly Fairy Lady Temple’. As the story is told,
  an old woman appeared on the hill where the pagoda stands today. She told the
  villagers that a lord would come and build a Buddhist temple for the country’s
  good fortune. As such, Lord Nguyen Hoang ordered the construction of the
  pagoda and named it after the old woman. Climb the striking, seven-storey-high
  Phuoc Duyen Tower to view the massive bronze bell and the inscripted stone
  slab set on the back of an enormous turtle, and then examine the works of art
  inside the temple. Nhat Dinh, a monk and the founder of Tu Hieu Pagoda, rose
  to fame after he followed doctor’s orders and dutifully prepared meat and fish
  for his sick mother. He was criticised for this, as monks were forbidden from
  hurting or killing animals. Upon hearing this story, Emperor Tu Duc named the
  temple ‘Tu Hieu’, meaning ‘Filial Piety’, which also happens to be a Buddhist
  virtue. Visit the temple at 10am or 4pm to catch the monks chanting.
  Tu Hieu Pagoda was also home to Thich Nhat Hanh, a world-renowned
  Buddhist monk, peace activist, author, poet and teacher. The ‘Father of
  Mindfulness’ entered the monastery at Tu Hieu when he was just 16 years old
  and later returned to live there until his death in 2022.
  Dragon boats | christian wittman/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO EAT HUE SPECIALITIES
  Nem Lui Ba Ty
  A small local restaurant that sells bun thit nuong and nem lui by the stick. $
  Banh Khoai Hong Mai
  A family restaurant near the Citadel that sells banh khoai and nem lui. $
  Hang Me Me
  To try banh loc, banh beo, banh nam and other banhs from Hue, come here. $
  HUE FESTIVAL
  Hue Festival hosts cultural events throughout the year, including traditional festivals, and
  folklore, religious, contemporary art and sporting festivals. Activities are split into four
  groups, corresponding with the four seasons. The first season begins on 1 January with
  the Calendar Distribution Ceremony and ends on 31 December with the Countdown
  Program. The highlight of the year is their multinational art and cultural festival, which
  occurs in April. The other highlights include the Ancient Capital Lantern Festival in
  autumn, the International Circus Festival in winter, the Capital of Gastronomy Festival in
  spring, and the Ao Dai Festival in summer, where locals and tourists are encouraged to
  wear traditional and innovative Vietnamese costumes.
  Eat Like an Emperor
  THE FAMOUS FOOD OF HUE
  During the Nguyen dynasty, royal cuisine was elevated to a culinary form of art
  that balanced and harmonised flavours, textures and colours. The emperors
  demanded their food be as pleasing and elegant as it tasted. As such, Hue’s food
  specialities are often regarded as the best food in the country and are a
  reflection of the soul of the region.
  Anthony Bourdain put bun bo hue on the map, proclaiming it the ‘best soup
  in the world’. The rich and complex dish is made with an aromatic pork and
  beef broth. Traditionally served as breakfast, the popularity of the soup has
  pushed vendors to make the delicacy available throughout the day.
  A long day of exploration makes a cool dish like bun thit nuong particularly
  tasty. Bun is rice noodle that’s served cold in a bowl, and thit nuong are thin
  slices of grilled caramelised pork. In Hue the locals drizzle the dish with a
  peanut sauce, as opposed to the fish sauce typically used in other parts of the
  country.
  The various banh of royal cuisine are savoury cakes that vary in texture and
  filling. Banh khoai is crispy and topped with pork, shrimp and egg. Banh loc is
  a chewy tapioca dumpling with morsels of shrimp inside. Like tapas, these bitesized
  treats are often served by the plateful and are perfect for sharing. Offered
  throughout Hue, these specialities can be found especially easily in the touristy
  Phu Hoi area of the city.
  Thien Mu Pagoda, Hue | sergii figurnyi/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO EXPERIENCE THE ARTS
  Hue Royal Theater
  Enjoy a show at the oldest theatre in Vietnam, where the Royal Art Troupe performs.
  Perfume River Dinner Cruise
  Watch folk music and Hue Royal Court music performances as you enjoy a tasty meal.
  Le Ba Dang Art Museum
  Collection covering a range of artwork by famed Vietnamese–French artist Le Ba Dang.
  BEST WATERING HOLES IN HUE
  DMZ Bar
  Popular pub with draught beer and cocktails in the busy Phu Hoi area of the city.
  Hue Hostel & Sports Bar
  Busy bar beneath a hostel in Phu Hoi with something going on every night.
  The Cham Craft Beer & Whisky
  A great selection of beer, cider and other spirits inside The Purple Hue hotel.
  Cochincung
  A riverfront bar near Phu Hoi that spans three rooms, with live music on weekends.
  Hit the Road
  DISCOVER THE CITY BY BIKE
  Explore Hue and its scenic countryside at your leisure: cycle through the city
  and into the rural area beyond. The streets in the city tend to be flat but
  crowded. The country roads are slightly hilly but less chaotic.
  Ride to the Imperial City for a two-hour walk around the Citadel. From
  there, cycle along the Perfume River to Thien Mu Pagoda and climb the
  tower. Continue pedaling south to the rolling hills, stopping at Khai Dinh’s
  royal tomb. After that, enjoy the ride back to your hotel. This route is 28km.
  If you’re more interested in visiting the royal tombs, cycle along the river to
  the Tiger Arena, where tigers and elephants once battled. Then take a small
  road to get to the royal tomb of Tu Duc, one of the most elaborate of the
  Nguyen emperors. After that, pedal through small and peaceful villages to the
  royal tomb of Thieu Tri.
  From there, ride to Khai Dinh’s royal tomb, which features a mix of Eastern
  and Western architecture, before making your way back to the city centre. This
  excursion is 24km. Renting a bike in Hue is easy. The city has a public rental
  system, with stations along the Perfume River and the Imperial City. The bikes
  are bright yellow. To use, download the Hue Smart Bike app.
  GETTING AROUND
  Motorbike, bike or cruise down the Perfume River to most of the city’s attractions. Cyclos
  are also for hire: you sit in a comfortable wheeled seat at the front and a driver cycles you
  around from the back.
  Beyond Hue
  Head into the countryside all around the city and venture east to the
  beaches for an even more authentic experience.
  Hue is blessed with nature all around: the royal tombs lie in the midst of pine
  trees; the geothermal pools at Thanh Tan Hot Springs are surrounded by green
  forests; and, of course, there’s plenty of sand and sea to enjoy at the city’s
  beaches to the east. Zoom through the small rural streets, make your way
  through the verdant rice paddies and seize the opportunity to mingle with the
  locals, whether it’s stopping a passerby for directions, exploring regional food
  and crafts at a neighbourhood market or getting refreshments at a humble
  roadside stall. You’ll find yourself leaving city life far behind and discovering
  the warmth and jovial nature of Hue’s people.
  Vinh Thanh Beach | nguyen quang ngoc tonkin/shutterstock ©
  TOP TIP
  Both individual and package tickets to the tomb can be purchased at the booth in front of the
  Imperial City.
  THE SECRETS OF THE ROYAL TOMB
  Intrigue often follows those with wealth and power, and the Nguyen emperors were not
  spared by scandal, especially when it came to their final resting places. While Tu Duc’s
  tomb is the greenest and most picturesque, it came at a cost.
  The mausoleum was constructed using forced labour, resulting in a coup attempt that
  was quickly squashed. Khai Dinh, a fan of the finer things in life, heavily taxed his people to
  finance the construction of his final resting place, which took 11 years to complete. Duc
  Duc was only in power for three days before he was deposed and detained, eventually
  starving in prison after seven days without food or water.
  Over the Emperor’s Dead Body
  ROYAL TOMBS OF VIETNAM’S LAST EMPERORS
  The royal tombs of Hue are far from ordinary: scattered throughout Huong
  Thuy, Huong Tra and Huong Tho, and with faded stone warriors protecting the
  dead and moss-covered towers hidden in the hills, these resting places induce
  the feeling of a legendary, long-forgotten world. The tombs of the Nguyen
  emperors, the country’s last royal family, lay scattered across 10km of the area
  and hold valuable artefacts that reflect Vietnam’s rich history, justly earning
  their title as Unesco World Heritage Sites.
  Minh Mang was a traditionalist, which is wholly reflected in his royal tomb,
  with its perfect symmetry and classic Chinese design. The popular Tu Duc
  tomb was designed as the emperor’s escape to write poetry. The royal tomb of
  Khai Dinh is imbued with Gothic French elements, thanks to the eccentric
  emperor’s acceptance of French colonialism. Gia Long was the first of the
  Nguyen emperors, and his tomb’s inaccessibility, coupled with his unpopularity,
  make it one of the least visited. The mausoleum now lies unkempt and mostly
  forgotten. Thieu Tri was an unassuming conservative emperor, and his tomb is
  much more humble than his father’s (Minh Mang) and his son’s (Tu Duc).
  While the front gate has been carefully restored, much of the tomb lies in ruin.
  Duc Duc shares his modest tomb with Thanh Thai and Duy Tan, two
  emperors who were denied dignified resting places because of their poor
  relationship with the French colonialists. The royal tomb of Dong Khanh sits
  on a quiet hill with gorgeous countryside views and shows a French influence.
  The royal tomb of Khai Dinh | sergii figurnyi/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY SOUTH OF HUE
  Anhill Boutique Hotel
  A luxe wellness retreat with healthy fare, temperature-regulated pool and zen garden. $$$$
  Hotel Pilgrimage Village
  Decadent boutique accommodations in the quiet countryside with an excellent spa. $$$
  Pinehill Tu Hieu Homestay
  Cosy, clean rooms on a spacious, peaceful property down the road from Tu Hieu Temple. $
  THE DMZ
  Extending along the former border of North and South Vietnam, the Demilitarised Zone
  (DMZ) was intended as a war-free zone. It stretched from the Laotian border to Vietnam’s
  coast, following the Ben Hai River, with 5km of land on either side. The worst battles of the
  American War took place here. It has since been cleared for rubber and coffee plantations
  and is devoid of war remnants, as the Americans obliterated their military bases upon
  evacuation.
  However, visitors can explore monuments dedicated to local war heroes, as well as Truong
  Son National Cemetery, the largest war cemetery in Vietnam. There’s also a small
  museum displaying war relics, and another dedicated to the Vinh Moc Tunnels.
  Get Your Geothermal Fix
  SOAK YOUR ACHES AWAY
  After a day or two spent exploring Hue, you might want to pamper yourself
  with a healing soak at one of Hue’s hot springs.
  Thanh Tan Hot Springs by Fusion is a wellness resort in a district called
  Phuong Dien, northwest of Hue, and is built in a natural wooded setting. Guests
  can soak in outdoor mineral springs that reach up to 68°C and which are rich in
  calcium, bicarbonate and magnesium. The addition of stream water in various
  rock-lined pools gradually lowers the temperature. Afterwards, renew both your
  body and mind at the Wellness Spa with an aromatherapy, bamboo or hot stone
  treatment before relaxing by the refreshing swimming pool. If you’re a bit of an
  adrenaline junkie, take an exhilarating ride on the 560m-long zip line and
  conquer the ropes course above the ground. The kids won’t be disappointed
  with the water slides and craft village. They might also enjoy helping to care for
  the deer at the resort’s Alba Farm & Deer Garden.
  Kawara My An Onsen Resort is another option that offers indoor and
  outdoor onsens (Japanese-style hot springs), with steam rooms, saunas,
  jacuzzis, soda baths and cold baths. Bear in mind that traditional onsens require
  nudity, so bathing areas are separated by gender. The resort also features
  accommodations, restaurants, a swimming pool, a kid’s club, a golf simulator,
  zen gardens and koi ponds.
  Hien Luong Bridge, Demilitarised Zone | loner nguyen/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY EAST OF HUE
  Villa Louise Beach & Spa
  A charming boutique retreat on a private beach with ocean views near Thuan An. $$
  Kawara My An Onsen Resort
  Japanese-style wellness resort with modern rooms and plenty of relaxing spa treatments. $$
  Hue Eco Homestay
  Basic dorms and private rooms with a keen focus on recycling and repurposing items. $
  A LUXE LAGOON LAIR
  Located halfway between Hue and Lang Co, Vedana Lagoon Resort & Spa is a decadent
  wellness escape featuring luxurious overwater bungalows perched atop Cau Hai Lagoon,
  and hillside villas, each with their own private pool. Spa services come with
  complimentary use of the jacuzzi, sauna and herbal steam room, and spa products are
  made with 100% natural ingredients, many of which are harvested from the resort’s herb
  garden. Yoga and tai chi are on offer, as well as kayaking, tennis and bicycling. Wake up
  early to witness the spectacular sun rising over the lagoon, and book the Twilight
  Experience for a romantic, private dinner on the resort’s pier.
  Down by the Beach
  ESCAPE FROM THE CITY
  Hue is well-known for its historical and cultural attractions, but east of the city
  also offers idyllic beaches and vast lagoons to enjoy. So enjoy the serenity and
  the nature by the sea.
  Three rivers – O Lau, Perfume and Bo – empty into Tam Giang Lagoon, the
  largest freshwater lagoon system in Hue, spanning 24km. Take a 30-minute ride
  along O Lau River before passing through Bao Vinh ancient town and finally
  reaching the Vinh Tu wharf. Come here to catch the glorious sunset, when the
  gold water sparkles.
  Thuan An Beach lies where the Perfume River approaches the lagoon before
  emptying into the South China Sea. It’s only 13km east of the Citadel and
  offers 12km of coastline with gentle, refreshing waves. A popular escape from
  the busy city centre, especially during the hot summer months, this stretch of
  sand fills up with throngs of locals, vendors and laughing children running
  around. For those who didn’t get their fill of cultural sites, visit Thai Duong
  Temple, where locals worship a Champa goddess.
  For a breathtaking, largely unspoiled beach, go 30km southeast of the city
  centre to Vinh Thanh Beach. This quiet and wild seaside attraction boasts
  soothing sand, playful waves, bouncing foam and crystal-clear waters. Take the
  small roads for a glimpse of rural life, and make sure to get your fill of fresh
  seafood before heading back to Hue.
  GETTING AROUND
  Rent a motorbike or hire a car to get to the tombs to the south, the springs to the
  northwest and the beaches to the east.
  LANG CO
  Just 60km south of Hue and 40km north of Danang, Lang Co is an underrated
  tourist destination that remains remarkably tranquil and unspoiled, giving you
  an authentic insight into what rural life is really like in central Vietnam. The
  area is home to only about 11,000 people who largely make their living by
  catching and farming fish and oysters.
  The coast of this quaint fishing village is filled with long stretches of white
  sand and clear turquoise water. Lap An Lagoon is a photographer’s dream, with
  the sky and clouds reflected in its still blue surface and the imposing green
  mountains lurking in the background. Snorkel at Hon Chao, a small pristine
  island, and trek Bach Ma National Park, filled with old forests and cool streams.
  With all that fresh fish, oysters, shrimp, clams, crab and lobsters around, a
  seafood feast is an absolute must when you visit this area.
  HIGHLIGHTS
  1 Hon Chao
  2 Lap An Lagoon
  SIGHTS
  3 Angsana
  4 Banyan Tree
  5 Canh Duong Beach
  6 Ham Rong Beach
  7 Laguna Lang Co
  8 Laguna Park
  9 Lang Co Beach
  10 Loc Binh Beach
  TOP TIP
  Lang Co is accessible from Hue and Danang by train, bus, car and motorbike. The best way to
  get there is via Hai Van Pass. The train traverses this scenic route, hugging the mountain as the
  land drops to the sea. Crossing Hai Van is also possible by car and motorbike.
  BEST PLACES TO STAY IN LANG CO
  Banyan Tree Lang Co
  A hideaway with spacious poolside villas designed for privacy and exclusivity. $$$
  Angsana Lang Co
  Rooms and suites in a natural setting overlooking a crescent bay. $$$
  Lang Co Beach Resort
  The town’s first luxury accommodations, inspired by Hue’s traditional houses. $$
  Ha Phuong Homestay
  Basic rooms in a villa with a pool and the lagoon on the doorstep. $
  Mai Nga Hotel
  Clean, budget-friendly rooms located between Lap An Lagoon and Lang Co Beach. $
  Where the Mountain Meets the Sea
  A PICTURE-PERFECT LAGOON
  Lap An Lagoon, also known as Lang Co Lagoon and An Cu Lagoon, is a
  shallow body of brackish water bounded by Bach Ma to the west and the Lang
  Co peninsula to the east, with gorgeous natural scenery all around. More than
  100 years ago, Nguyen dynasty emperors Khai Dinh and Bao Dai often fished
  the 800-hectare lagoon during their summer respites to Lang Co. Nowadays,
  Lap An is used by local farmers to raise oysters.
  Enjoy a leisurely cycle or drive around the lagoon, where you can see the
  traditional wooden stilt houses that dot the area, discover fish and oyster farms,
  and experience the rustic, simple life of the local people. Watch as they expertly
  toss their nets in the air to catch fish and pick out scallops hiding in the sand.
  End your visit with a stop at one of the pearl showrooms, where baroque pieces
  can be obtained at a good price.
  Lap An is especially breathtaking at dawn and dusk, when the bright colours
  of the changing sky are reflected in the still lagoon waters below. If you wait
  until the tide recedes, you can walk on the white sandbar that emerges from the
  water for a great photo op. The rafts, boats, swings and chairs that punctuate the
  circumference are open for use at a small cost.
  Lap An Lagoon | nguyen quang ngoc tonkin/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO EAT IN LANG CO
  Hoang Nhi Quan
  A popular and picturesque beachside seafood shack at Lang Co Beach with vegetarian
  options. $$
  Nha Hang Vuon Tram
  A garden restaurant at Lap An Lagoon that specialises in local food and jungle ingredients. $
  Nha Hang Bien Canh Duong
  A seafood restaurant that’s a hit with the locals and great for big groups. $
  NEARBY WATERFALLS
  Areas of high elevation with rivers usually offer plenty of waterfalls to explore, and the
  mountains surrounding Lang Co do not disappoint. From Hai Van Pass, take a left before
  crossing the bridge to enter into Lang Co. Take another left on a small road to get to Suoi
  Thac Do, or go a little further for the more easily accessible Suoi Mo.
  On the other side of the bridge, Bach Ma National Park is home to Suoi Tien, a water
  recreation area, and Thac Bo Ghe, a more remote waterfall. The popular Suoi Voi or
  Elephant Springs is closed for construction.
  Most waterfall areas offer primitive bungalows for rent, as well as food and refreshments.
  In the Lap of Luxury
  A STAY FIT FOR ROYALTY
  The Laguna Lang Co complex is a world-class holiday destination by the
  Banyan Tree Group. Spreading over 280 hectares, the community boasts a 3km
  private beach in a secluded crescent bay, the Banyan Tree and Angsana
  branded hotels, Laguna Park townhouses, and a wide range of recreational
  activities. With a keen focus on sustainability, Laguna Lang Co has
  implemented environmental preservation and conservation across its operations,
  including a moratorium on single-use plastics and an ‘edible golf course’
  planted with rice fields and tended by water buffaloes. Their efforts have earned
  the prestigious EarthCheck Gold status, a leading worldwide certification for
  sustainable tourism.
  Banyan Tree provides elegant pool villas with a refined and tropical Asian
  feel, as well as personalised customer service. Rooms at Angsana showcase
  Vietnam’s rich history and boast a modern twist. Laguna Park offers fully
  equipped townhouse rentals with golf-course views – perfect for families and
  small groups. Dining options abound, with eight restaurants and lounges to
  choose from, offering both Vietnamese and international fare.
  Lap An Lagoon | bichvan/shutterstock ©
  WHAT TO SEE IN LANG CO
  Lap An Lagoon
  Lang Co’s star attraction. An idyllic body of water that’s perfect for photography enthusiasts.
  Lang Co Beach
  A popular and easily accessible beach; it’s the first stretch of shoreline coming off Hai Van
  Pass.
  Canh Duong Beach
  This local favourite is a crescent beach north of town offering all the amenities you’d want.
  HON CHAO
  A beautiful, wild island at the foot of Hai Van, Hon Chao rises 450m above sea level and is
  only 1.5km wide. It lies about ten nautical miles from the coast and is accessible by fishing
  boat or canoe. The island boasts diversity in sea life and terrain.
  Enjoy the clear-blue water at the beach, and go snorkelling to get intimate with the
  colourful sea life there. Explore the primeval forest filled with rare species, and visit the
  lighthouse that was built during the French colonial period. If you’re especially
  adventurous, pitch a tent and camp overnight.
  Fun in the Sun
  LANG CO’S THREE BEACHES
  The beaches of Lang Co are very local and laid back. However, there is no flag
  system to indicate safe swimming areas and no attending lifeguards. Surfers
  head here from August until the end of October, when the wind gives
  consistent, clean waves. Make sure to BYO surfboard or rent one in Danang, as
  surfboard rentals are nonexistent in Lang Co.
  Once you enter Lang Co from Hai Van Pass, the first beach you’ll encounter
  is Lang Co Beach, which spans 7km. This stretch of shoreline is fairly empty
  and boasts warm water with gentle waves almost all year. A few open-air
  restaurants serving seafood also occupy the sandy space. If you want a lounger
  or a cocktail, head to one of the beachside resorts.
  Just north of Lang Co is Canh Duong Beach. This 5km-long crescent beach
  is bounded by two capes and cut in half by a river that flows down from the
  Bach Ma peaks. Local swimmers love the clear and clean water here. Tents, Aframe
  cabins, family cabanas and fresh seafood are all on offer.
  Past Canh Duong Beach, north of the Laguna Lang Co complex, is Loc Binh
  Beach. Once a burgeoning destination for locals, the spacious coastline set
  against verdant hills now seems mostly abandoned, so you’ll likely have the
  beach all to yourself.
  Go further north to get to Ham Rong Beach, where the thick green jungle
  embraces the sea, dotted by stacks of rocks that break up the sandy landscape.
  Ham Rong is a very remote attraction with few amenities, so make sure to pack
  all that you need.
  GETTING AROUND
  The best way to get around Lang Co is by motorbike, as attractions are quite spread out in
  the area. For an epic ride, combine a visit to Lang Co with a scenic drive up and over Hai
  Van Pass, and end with a waterfall refresher on the other side.
  Beyond Lang Co
  Cool down by going up to stunning Bach Ma National Park, where
  tropical forests, waterfalls and lakes will greet you.
  Bach Ma means ‘White Horse’ and is named after the white clouds that
  surround the peaks of the mountain. According to legend, the gods rode their
  horses to Bach Ma for a day of leisure. As the gods were playing chess, their
  horses went off in search of grass. The gods finished their game and waited in
  vain for their horses to return, eventually flying back to heaven without them.
  The lost horses wandered around for an eternity, finally turning into clouds as
  they waited for their owners.
  Bach Ma National Park is gigantic: it spans nearly 37,500 hectares and is
  home to a whopping 1700 species of fauna and around 2,300 types of flora.
  Bach Ma National Park | hien phung thu/shutterstock ©
  TOP TIP
  The best time to visit Bach Ma is in March and April, when the wild rhododendrons blossom.
  BACH MA ECO AMUSEMENT PARKS
  Bach Ma Village is nestled in the green valley of the national park and is an eco-tourism
  haven where visitors can bathe in cool streams, go zip lining, chow down on local cuisine
  and visit a hobbit village inspired by The Lord of the Rings. Camping is also available here.
  Yes Hue Eco is an eco-tourism resort with a total area of 50,000 sq metres, four natural
  swimming pools, three waterfalls, water games, restaurants, barbecues and overnight
  camping. The natural resort has a keen focus on sustainability. Personal hygiene products
  with chemicals are not allowed; plastic bags and bottles are prohibited; and removing
  plants and animals from the area is forbidden.
  A Walk on the Wild Side
  WHERE NATURE AND RELIGION COLLIDE
  Look out for the many unique plants and animals as you conquer Vong Hai
  Dai, the highest point in Bach Ma National Park, at a whopping 1448m above
  sea level, and soak in the jaw-dropping views of the nearby mountains, valleys,
  beaches, as well as the Imperial City of Hue. After taking some time to catch
  your breath, hike down to Ngu Ho to cool off a bit and enjoy the series of fivetiered
  lakes. It might be worth bringing a packed lunch and having a little picnic
  here, as it’s a great place to rest and relax. The third lake is particularly
  beautiful, with a waterfall that glistens silvery white in the sunlight. Then, make
  the trek to Do Quyen Waterfall, named after the rhododendron flower, which
  blooms here in March. Or, you can head to Truot Falls, which is famous for its
  natural water slide, complete with a thin layer of slippy moss to combat friction.
  If you have the time, drive to Truc Lam Zen Monastery, located at the foot
  of Linh Son Mountain; it’s surrounded by a lake and accessible by boat. Take
  the 172 steps that lead up to the arches at the entrance, and then take some time
  to wander through and explore the ancient Buddhist complex. If you’re in the
  mood (and are the meditating type), sit in cross-legged meditation as the scent
  of incense and the sound of the bells permeate the air and float away in the
  surroundings.
  Bach Ma National Park | hien phung thu/shutterstock ©
  GETTING AROUND
  The peak of Bach Ma National Park is accessible by car and buses with up to 16 seats.
  However, motorbikes and bicycles are not permitted. If you’re on two wheels, leave your
  vehicle at the carpark and take one of the trails through the jungle. There is no wi-fi or
  mobile signal in the park, so plan accordingly.
  DANANG
  Danang is the largest city in central Vietnam, with almost 1.2 million residents.
  Its name is believed to come from the Cham word da nak, which means
  ‘opening of a large river’, and flowing through Danang and emptying into the
  South China Sea is the mighty Han River. The city centre lies to the west, while
  the east resembles a laid-back beach town. In order to easily cross the river that
  divides the city, seven bridges were built. Hence the name of the Danang-made
  craft beer brand, 7 Bridges Brewing Co.
  Once occupied by the French and later serving as a major base for the Viet
  Cong, Danang is now a centrally controlled municipality, one of four in
  Vietnam, boasting a number of educational institutions and a rapidly growing
  economy. Currently in its adolescent stage, Danang is burgeoning into a clean
  and progressive city that retains a somewhat charming, small-town feel.
  HIGHLIGHTS
  1 Marble Mountains
  2 Son Tra Peninsula
  SIGHTS
  3 Bac My An Beach
  4 Bai Nam Beach
  5 Ban Co Peak
  6 Dong Dinh Museum
  7 Giant Banyan Tree
  8 Linh Ung Pagoda
  9 My Khe Beach
  10 Nam O Beach
  11 Nguyen Tat Thanh Beach
  12 Non Nuoc Beach
  13 Son Tra Lighthouse
  14 Tam Thai Pagoda
  15 Tien Sa Retreat Beach
  16 Xa Loi Tower
  ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS
  17 Hoa Nghiem Cave
  18 Huyen Khong Cave
  19 Tang Chon Cave
  DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
  20 Big Bang Karaoke
  21 Dirty Fingers
  22 Funky Donkey
  23 Karma Lounge Danang
  24 New Golden Pine
  25 On the Radio
  26 Paradise Beach
  27 Section 30
  28 The 1920’s Lounge
  ENTERTAINMENT
  29 MO’AT
  SHOPPING
  30 Danang Holiday Surf
  31 Danang LST Local Surf Rentals
  32 Go Surfing Danang
  TOP TIP
  At 9pm on weekends and holidays, the Dragon Bridge breathes fire and water for two minutes.
  Arrive early for a good viewing spot. By the same token, avoid traversing Dragon Bridge and
  Han Bridge between 8.30pm and 9.30pm on weekends and holidays, as traffic slows to a
  standstill.
  BEST RESTAURANTS IN DANANG
  NU DO Kitchen
  My quang, a regional noodle dish, made by Masterchef runner-up, Carol Pham. $
  Bep Hen
  Cosy and comforting food, just like your Vietnamese grandma would make. $
  Moc Quan
  The grilled oysters and lemongrass chip chip (tiny clams) are a must at this lively seafood
  eatery. $$
  Bikini Bottom
  Decadent Western classics with an Eastern flair. $$
  Le Comptoir
  A French bistro with creative, seasonal dishes by a Michelin-trained chef. $$$
  Sun & Sea
  PICTURE-PERFECT BEACHES
  One of the most defining features of Danang is its long stretches of shoreline.
  My Khe Beach is the largest, with 10km of white sand. It was named one of the
  six most beautiful beaches in the world by Forbes magazine. There are plenty
  of lounge chairs for rent, and lots of places up and down the coast sell
  refreshments. Neighbouring to the south is Bac My An Beach, offering 4km of
  shoreline. Here, you’ll find public beaches that retain the peace and cleanliness
  of a private beach. Non Nuoc Beach is even further south, on the way to Hoi
  An. It’s far less crowded and shares its 5km coastline with a few luxury resorts.
  Because of Non Nuoc’s vicinity to Marble Mountains, it’s a good option to see
  both attractions in one day.
  In northern Danang, there’s another sandy stretch: Nguyen Tat Thanh Beach
  runs along Nguyen Tat Thanh street, from Thuan Phuoc Bridge to the base of
  Hai Van Pass. The most striking part of the coastline is 17km northwest of
  Danang city centre, at Nam O Beach, where moss-covered rocks protrude from
  the water against a backdrop of palm groves, blossoming trees and mountains.
  Remember to bring a blanket, as there are no lounge chairs or umbrellas here.
  At the crack of dawn, head to the shore to witness the locals jogging,
  swimming, exercising or simply lazing on the sand. It’s their favourite time of
  day to enjoy the beach.
  WHERE TO STAY IN DANANG
  Intercontinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort
  Luxe accommodations designed by Bill Bensley with a private bay on Son Tra. $$$
  LIVIE Danang An Thuong
  Modern and stylish apartment-style rooms with plenty of restaurants, spas, cafes and bars
  nearby. $$
  HAMA Boutique Home
  Budget rooms with amiable hosts and great rooftop views close to My Khe Beach. $
  BEST BIRD’S-EYE VIEW OF DANANG
  Ban Co Peak
  Perched on Son Tra peninsula, with surrounding views of the city, ocean and mountains
  beyond.
  Paragliding off Son Tra Peninsula
  Take flight to get a unique perspective of Danang, Linh Ung Pagoda and the endless sea.
  Parasailing at My Khe Beach
  Float above sea level and get top-down panoramic views of Son Tra Peninsula and the city.
  Danang Heli Tours
  Fly above the Marble Mountains, along My Khe Beach, up Han River and over Son Tra
  Peninsula.
  Go Wild in the City
  EXPLORE THE CITY’S GREEN LUNG
  Located just 10km northeast of the city centre, Son Tra Peninsula rises 693m
  above sea level and acts as a massive screen, shielding Danang from tropical
  storms that rage in from the sea. The protected area is home to nearly 300 types
  of flora and several hundred kinds of fauna, including some rare animals like
  the red-shanked douc. The endangered Old World monkey is a striking creature
  with a vibrant yellow–orange face and distinctive reddish-brown legs. Keep an
  eye out for this shy langur, especially in the early morning and early afternoon
  when they come out in packs to feed.
  As you head up Son Tra Peninsula, make your first stop at Dong Dinh
  Museum. Danang’s first private museum houses artefacts from the Dai Viet, Sa
  Huynh and Champa cultures that date back 2500 years. Linh Ung Pagoda, with
  the towering Lady Buddha Statue that stands over 100m tall, is just a little
  further down the road. Head past Intercontinental Danang Sun Peninsula Resort
  to get to the Giant Banyan Tree, which is 10m in circumference and rumoured
  to be 1000 years old. Son Tra Lighthouse is a little further down the road and
  serves as a great backdrop for photos. For panoramic views, make the drive up
  to Ban Co Peak. Then end your day at one of the many beaches on Son Tra,
  such as Bai Rang near Linh Ung Pagoda, or Bai Nam.
  The Dragon Bridge, Danang | richie chan/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO GO FOR COCKTAILS IN DANANG
  Te Bar
  A chic speakeasy recently named the number 1 bar in Vietnam by Travel + Leisure.
  The Craftsman
  The godfather of Danang’s cocktail culture, with an excellent and inspired selection of liquor.
  Tailor Bar
  A truly cosy bar with a tailor’s facade. Try one of their original seasonal creations.
  Son Tra Retreat
  Unwind, relax and dare one of the bartenders to craft a cocktail on the fly.
  P.Antheon Cocktail Bar
  A towering 6th-floor speakeasy with a classy gentlemen’s club vibe and a short seasonal
  menu.
  C Lounge
  A hidden bar in the An Thuong area with Japanese-inspired interiors and live music every
  night.
  THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND
  A semi-automatic motorbike is required to explore most of the peninsula, as automatic
  ones aren’t permitted on the steep winding roads leading to the higher points of interest.
  An alternative option is to hire a car for your journey. If you decide to explore on your own,
  make sure you have a full tank of petrol. There’s only one option to refill – a shack near the
  Intercontinental. Mobile signal in certain areas is weak. Make sure to bring a map and
  plan your trip well, or opt to hire a local tour guide. Head to GreenViet Nature Education
  Center to learn more about the nature and biodiversity of Son Tra Peninsula before
  exploring the area.
  Where Nature, Religion & History Collide
  DISCOVERING MARBLE MOUNTAINS
  As the Cham legend goes, a great dragon laid her egg on Non Nuoc Beach. The
  egg eventually hatched and the shell was broken into five pieces. These pieces
  became the five limestone peaks that make up the Marble Mountains, with
  every peak representing one of the five elements of Eastern philosophy: metal,
  water, fire, wood, and earth.
  During the American War, the Viet Cong and their allies hid in the refuge of
  the Marble Mountains until the North Vietnamese Army drove them out and
  established a secret field hospital in Huyen Khong Cave. This is the largest
  cave within the five peaks and it has a collapsed ceiling that allows rays of light
  to penetrate the dark cavern. Am Phu Cave sits opposite Huyen Khong and is
  filled with ancient drawings. Other caves include Hoa Nghiem Cave on Water
  Mountain and Tang Chon Cave on Metal Mountain.
  Pagodas and shrines also lay sporadically throughout the area. One of the
  most striking is the 200-year-old Linh Ung Pagoda on the eastern side of Water
  Mountain, with its tilework, lotus ponds and bonsai plants. Twenty-metre-high
  Xa Loi Tower is a short walk away and houses 200 Buddha statues as well as
  stunning views of the landscape below. Seventeenth-century Tam Thai Pagoda
  on Water Mountain boasts a charming courtyard. The Marble Mountains are
  best explored early morning, before the hordes of tourists arrive and when the
  air is not quite as hot.
  Nam O Beach | tang trung kien/shutterstock ©
  BEST SPAS IN DANANG
  DAHAN Spa
  Flawless service in a beautiful zen space with complimentary transfers (minimum two
  guests).
  Babylon Garden Spa
  Get the signature Kenko massage at this modern, green and airy spa.
  SEN Boutique Spa
  A serene green haven that specialises in cupping therapy, an ancient medical technique.
  Herbal Spa
  A popular spa – be spoiled by detailed, attentive and incredibly well-trained staff.
  Golden Lotus Oriental Organic Spa
  A colourful, vintage-chic sanctuary in the city centre with warm, professional staff.
  Get Your Surf On
  A BEGINNER’S PARADISE
  Back in the day, American soldiers gathered at My Khe Beach to take a
  breather from the war, relax under the sun and catch a few waves. Locals joined
  in on the water fun, and a unique surf culture was born. The best time to surf is
  between September and March, but wind swells can be surfed year round.
  Besides My Khe Beach, other surf hot spots in Danang include Non Nuoc
  Beach on the way to Hoi An and Nam O Beach. Board rentals are available at
  little shacks at My Khe Beach and at many shops in An Thuong, all within
  walking distance of the sea.
  If you’re a newbie, Danang is the perfect place to learn, with mellow beach
  breaks all year long. Get some help from the surf experts at Danang LST Local
  Surf Rentals, who will also take you out on the town if you’re keen. The
  Danang Holiday Surf instructors will teach you how to surf, and provide
  helpful hints on ocean safety, how to read waves and surfing etiquette. Surf
  Shack offers private and group lessons, and doubles as a burger joint if you
  want to grab a bite post-surf. Go Surfing Danang is particularly good at
  teaching kids how to ride waves. The inaugural Da Nang Open surf
  competition was held in 2022. To compete or watch the event plan to visit this
  central coast city from October through February.
  WHERE TO GO FOR A SUNDOWNER IN DANANG
  Vietgangz Beach Club Danang
  Sip on a beer and frolic in the water with Hai Van in the distance.
  Lagoon Rooftop
  Order a classic cocktail and enjoy rooftop views of the Dragon Bridge and the city.
  The Pool at Danang Golden Bay
  Grab a beer and laze in the infinity pool as you soak in 29th-floor views.
  Bars, Clubs & Live Music
  PAINT THE TOWN RED
  After dark, Danang does not sleep: the city stays lively and boisterous until the
  break of dawn, with a collection of friendly local bars, sophisticated lounges
  and vibrant nightclubs.
  Start the evening off at Paradise Beach, a busy seaside lounge with cabanas,
  beanbags and great people-watching opportunities. Then, play a game of
  petanque at Funky Donkey, a popular expat bar with events on almost every
  night. Or, try your hand at billiards and darts at Dirty Fingers, a sports bar with
  finger-lickin’ grub.
  If you’ve got a hankering for live music, head to On The Radio. This
  crowded raucous bar features cover bands, but will also host the occasional
  local indie or underground artist. The 1920’s Lounge also boasts live bands, but
  with fancy cocktails and an elegant, prohibition-era vibe. Or, chill at Section 30,
  a laid-back expat bar where English-speaking bands are often scheduled to play
  on weekends.
  After listening to live music, you might be inspired to belt out your own
  tunes. Big Bang Karaoke, located on the beach side of Danang, features 24/7
  private booths with plenty of English songs and YouTube connectivity.
  Continue dancing the night away at Karma Lounge Da Nang, a gorgeous
  two-level club with a proper dance floor and a banging sound system. New
  Golden Pine is another club option with energetic local DJs. Or get down to
  MO’AT Lounge, a new club in the Danang nightlife scene with a futuristic,
  spaceship vibe.
  My Khe Beach | bjaru/shutterstock ©
  BEST BOUTIQUE STAYS IN DANANG
  The Blossom Resort
  A Japanese-inspired escape in the city centre with contemporary rooms and villas and
  complimentary onsen use. $$
  Hotel Le Bouton
  This architectural wonder reflects an old fishing village in Danang, with each room imbuing
  a sense of waves hitting white sand. $$
  Bridges Danang Boutique Hotel
  Inspired by the bridges of Danang, this concept features space-efficient industrial design
  and a rooftop terrace. $
  The Memory
  Stylish dorms and rooms of a high standard, with delicious breakfasts. $
  GETTING AROUND
  Motorbike is the easiest way to get around. If you don’t want to drive yourself, hire a driver,
  or a car from a ride-hailing app. Public buses are running, but they are often quite
  inconsistent.
  Beyond Danang
  Entertainment and adventure await beyond the limits of Danang. Take a
  breather (or two) from the city and enjoy exploring.
  Just beyond the city of Danang lies the countryside, with mountains, forests,
  winding passes and cascading rivers. The areas around Danang tend to be cooler
  thanks to the elevation, so heading outside the city limits is a good idea on a hot
  day. West of Danang is Ba Na Hills, a massive family-friendly theme park, and
  Hai Van Pass lies to the north, on the way to Lang Co and Hue. For a deeper
  connection to nature and local life, try to drive on the smaller roads that lead
  into the jungle to the north and west of Danang, and enjoy the wilderness treks
  to utterly refreshing streams and waterfalls – perfect for a cool-down.
  Golden Bridge, Danang | hien phung thu/shutterstock ©
  TOP TIP
  Get to Ba Na Hills late in the afternoon to avoid the crowds and enjoy a glorious sunset at
  Golden Bridge.
  BA NA HILLS GOLF CLUB
  The first and only golf course designed by Luke Donald, Ba Na Hills Golf Club has won
  multiple awards, including ‘Asia’s Best Golf Course’ and ‘Vietnam’s Best Golf Course’ for
  five years running. All 18 holes boast panoramic views of the gorgeous jungle hills, as well
  as a cooler and slightly less windy climate compared to coastline golf clubs. With a total
  length of more than 7800 yards, the IMG-managed course is the longest in the country.
  The world-class facility boasts a grass driving range and upscale clubhouse, a golf
  academy with an on-site PGA professional and floodlights at night for a unique after-dark
  golfing experience.
  Amusement & Fantasy
  SCENES FROM A FAIRY TALE
  Ba Na Hills is an enchanting entertainment world for people of all ages.
  Located at almost 1500m above sea level, the complex offers splendid views of
  the surrounding mountains, all the way to the South China Sea, and features one
  of CNN’s ‘10 most impressive cable car systems in the world’.
  Ba Na means ‘My Mountain’, and was also the name of an ethnic minority
  group that laid claim to the area. These hills later became a favourite holiday
  spot for French colonists in the late 19th century, thanks to the significantly
  cooler climate and gorgeous vistas.
  Hop on a cable car at Hoi An Station for majestic views of clouds, mountains
  and waterfalls from above. When it reaches the lower level, make your way to
  Golden Bridge, where giant stone hands seem to be lifting a gilded overpass.
  Then, ride the funicular (an alpine coaster) to Le Jardin D’Amour Gardens to
  explore the French-style flower garden. After that, take the cable car from
  Debay Station to Morin Station to get to the French Village, where you can
  admire French-inspired Gothic architecture and grab a bite to eat. From here,
  walk up to the Spiritual Zone and explore a pagoda with beautiful views of the
  park. Next, make your way down to Fantasy Park to release your inner child
  and play some arcade games. End your visit with a brew at the Oktoberfestinspired
  Beer Plaza.
  Throughout the year, Ba Na Hills hosts special events like Carnival Festival
  in April, and Beer Festival in June.
  Cable car, Ba Na Hills | jimmy tran/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO GO GLAMPING NEAR DANANG
  Yen Retreat
  Riverside glamping near the base of Hai Van Pass that can accommodate large groups. $
  Cu De Camping
  On-the-ground camping and stilted glamping with a swimming pool on the Cu De River. $
  Dreamer in the Forest
  Sleep in yurt tents to the sounds of a babbling brook at this ‘mini Dalat’ near Hai Van Pass. $
  DANANG HOI AN WATERFALLS TOURS
  Tony and Cameron at Danang Hoi An Waterfalls have spent years exploring the waterfalls
  deep in the jungle of Danang. They’ll share their secrets with anyone with a sense of
  adventure. Tours range from the easily accessible Fairy Falls, with natural pools and
  shallow cliff jumping, to overnight camping at Shattered Falls, complete with jaw-dropping
  scenery and thrilling cliff-dives and rock climbs. For the best-value option, go for the
  Dominion Tour, which takes to you to three waterfalls, including one that flows into a 6mdeep
  pool.
  These journeys are not for the faint-hearted. The jungle is unpredictable, paths are steep
  and the currents can be overwhelming. They recommend most tours for fit, experienced
  trekkers.
  WHERE TO GO GLAMPING NEAR DANANG
  An Nhien Farm
  A rustic-chic glamping experience with delicious farm-to-table fare and wood workshops. $$
  Roc Rach Glamping
  Picture-perfect accommodations near Bana Hills. Enjoy being in the midst of nature. $
  V-Village Hai Van
  A tiny retreat off Hai Van Pass with yurt tents and gorgeous panoramic views. $
  Freshwater Fun
  SO FRESH AND SO GREEN
  Like many other port cities in Vietnam, Danang and the area around it is chockfull
  of waterways. Pair that with the jungle, and you get plenty of opportunities
  to escape the hot and hectic city by taking refuge in the cool shade of the trees
  and the refreshing current of a river.
  In Hoa Phu commune, close to Ba Na Hills, lie Nui Than Tai Hot Springs, a
  natural water park that covers 60 hectares of lush green forest and mineral-rich
  hot springs. Relax in the mud bath and the onsen, or get your heart pumping in
  the wave pool and twisting slides. Follow the road a few kilometres west and
  you’ll find Suoi Hoa, where you can chill in overwater bungalows with
  thatched roofs, explore waterfalls and suspension bridges, and partake in ethnic
  Co Tu folk games. Also in Hoa Phu commune, just down the road from Suoi
  Hoa, is Phu Hoa Thanh, with exhilarating waterfalls, natural pools and river
  rafting.
  Another freshwater option is Suoi Luong, a popular recreation area with
  natural spring baths located at the foot of Hai Van, 18km from Danang city
  centre. Head here once you complete the journey from north to south over Hai
  Van Pass for a refreshing end to a long drive.
  French Village | hien phung thu/shutterstock ©
  BEST TOURS OF HAI VAN PASS
  Easy Riders Vietnam
  Experienced local guides will show you the beautiful places you won’t see on a DIY trip.
  OnYaBike Adventures
  Provides tours on Royal Enfield Himalayan motorcycles with professional guides.
  The Motorbike Station
  One-way rentals. They helpfully transport your luggage in a separate car so you can ride
  light and free.
  Tigit Motorbikes
  One-way rentals with freelance tour-guide partners and excellent customer service.
  MotorVina Motorbike Rentals
  One-way rentals based in Hue with tour guide and bag transfer included.
  Conquering Hai Van Pass
  AS SEEN ON TOP GEAR
  Twenty-one kilometres of steep, jungle-covered hills, windy roads and scenic
  views of the endless ocean, Hai Van Pass is one of the most beautiful coastal
  roads in the world and was featured on a 2008 episode of Top Gear. It connects
  the modern city of Danang to the coastal town of Lang Co, with a peak of
  almost 500m above sea level and inclines of up to 11 degrees.
  In the early 14th century, Hai Van Pass acted as the border between the
  Champa and Dai Viet kingdoms. It was later known as the ‘Street Without Joy’
  during the First Indochina War, providing a crucial land link between two of the
  most war-ravaged cities at the time: Hue and Danang.
  At the top of Hai Van Pass are vestiges of Hai Van Quan, an old fortified
  gateway, and battle-scarred French bunkers riddled with bullet holes. Take a
  break here for spectacular views to the north and south, and get refreshments at
  one of the many roadside restaurants. Further south is Cu Rua, a large rock on
  the left side of the road that’s hard to miss and makes for a great photo op.
  The weather at the top of Hai Van Pass can vary greatly from its base – pack
  accordingly. Also, keep caution on a rainy day, as the hills and curves become
  more perilous.
  GETTING AROUND
  Getting around beyond Danang is best done by scooter or motorbike. You can rent one
  and do the drive yourself, or you can do the ride as a tour. There’s also the option to ride
  on the back of a motorbike with the tour guide as your driver. If you prefer to go in an
  automobile, opt for a Jeep tour. These are usually done between Hue and Danang or Hoi
  An, so the journey is much longer. Riding the train along the coast between Lang Co and
  Danang is another great alternative.
  HOI AN
  Formerly known as Faifoo, this well-preserved town of just over 120,000
  people is a living museum of one of the most active seaports in Asia between
  the 15th and 19th centuries. Hoi An’s original street plan and charming
  architecture have thankfully perpetuated, despite inevitable modernisation, with
  just over 800 preserved ancient buildings. This Unesco World Heritage Site was
  named the best city in the world in 2019 by Travel + Leisure readers, so it’s no
  wonder over three million tourists flock to Hoi An every year. Spend a day
  wandering the narrow alleys of the Old Town and relax by An Bang Beach with
  a crafty cocktail in hand. Eat some delicious street food and wander through the
  organic fields in Tra Que Village. Get some clothes made at a bespoke tailor and
  cycle lazily through the villages and lush paddies to get a glimpse of rural
  Vietnamese life.
  HIGHLIGHTS
  1 Old Town
  2 Tra Que Village
  SIGHTS
  3 An Bang Beach
  4 Chinese All-Community Assembly Hall
  5 Hidden Beach
  6 Japanese Covered Bridge
  7 Quan Cong Temple
  8 Tan Ky House
  9 Thu Bon River
  EATING
  10 An Bang Beach Village Restaurant
  11 Banh Mi Phuong
  12 Barefoot Beach Club
  13 Cao Lau Khong Gian Xanh
  14 Com Ga Ba Buoi
  15 Eight Days A Week
  16 Luna d’Autunno
  17 The Fisherman Vegan Restaurant
  18 The Tamarinde Tree Restaurant
  19 Veranda Food + Drink
  20 White Rose Restaurant
  DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
  21 Shore Club
  22 Sound of Silence
  23 The Deck House
  ENTERTAINMENT
  24 Bungalow Beach Bar
  25 Soul Kitchen
  SHOPPING
  26 Bao An Tailor
  27 Cloth Market
  28 Mr Xe
  see 27 Sewing Bee
  see 27 TaTa Tailor
  29 The Tailory
  TOP TIP
  Save exploring Old Town for the nighttime, after the hot sun has set and when the streets
  become festive with colourful lanterns. During the day, escape to nearby An Bang Beach to
  bask in the sunshine, laze with the breeze and frolic in the cool sea.
  BEST RESTAURANTS
  Phi Banh Mi
  Famed for its pork-belly sandwich. $
  Mai Fish
  Traditional cuisine by celebrated chef, Duc Tran. $$
  Rosie’s Cafe
  Western breakfasts and lunches in a garden setting. $$
  Tok
  Fusion restaurant and bar surrounded by rice paddies. $$$
  MUA
  Showcasing Vietnamese ingredients by Michelin-trained chef, Tru Lang. $$$
  Am Vegetarian & Hideaway
  A plant-based restaurant with delightful service. $
  Step Back in Time
  PEEK INTO PORT LIFE
  The Old Town is a Unesco World Heritage Site and Hoi An’s most-visited
  attraction. Once a major trading port back in the 15th century, the city was an
  important stop on the Maritime Silk Road and a popular place for Asian
  merchants to trade. Today, the Old Town is a retail and food centre showcasing
  traditional craftsmanship and local food specialities.
  Many of the ancient buildings in the Old Town were built between the 15th
  and 19th centuries, with architectural influences by the Chinese, Japanese,
  Portuguese and French, thanks to the fishers, traders and colonialists who
  populated the area. Wander along the pedestrian streets and admire the old and
  charming yellow buildings with terracotta roofs. Visit bespoke tailors, clothing
  stores, leather shops and gift shops. Get a refresher at a cafe or grab a bite at one
  of the many restaurants in the area. Snap photos at the Japanese Covered
  Bridge, built in the 1590s to connect the Japanese and Chinese quarters, the
  Chinese Assembly Halls, which were once both temples and meeting places,
  Quan Cong Temple, dedicated to a Chinese general as a symbol of loyalty, and
  Tan Ky House, an ‘Old House’ with a lovely fusion of Japanese and Chinese
  design.
  WHERE TO STAY IN HOI AN
  Hotel Royal Hoi An – MGallery
  A blend of heritage and romance on the river next to the Old Town. $$$
  Almanity Hoi An Wellness Resort
  An oasis of comfort, relaxation and healing a stone’s throw from the Old Town. $$$
  Vietnam Backpacker Hostels Hoi An
  Dorms and private rooms in a social and fun environment on Cua Dai Street. $
  Down by the Beach
  FUN AND FOOD IN THE SUN
  Hoi An’s coastline stretches as far as the eye can see and was voted one of the
  top 100 beaches in the world by CNN. An Bang is one of the more popular
  beaches, with countless loungers and plenty of restaurants.
  For an upscale beachfront vibe, go to Shore Club or The Deck House. Enjoy
  live music at Soul Kitchen and Bungalow Beach Bar. Eat local food at The
  Tamarinde Tree Restaurant, tasty pizza at Luna d’Autunno, scrumptious
  Indian food at An Bang Beach Village Restaurant, comfort food at Veranda
  Food + Drink or a delicious plant-based meal at The Fisherman Vegan
  Restaurant. Just south of An Bang is Hidden Beach, a more quiet and pristine
  stretch of sand that’s relatively uncrowded. Barefoot Beach Club offers food
  and drinks in a wide open area, while Sound of Silence feels more intimate
  with a boutique vibe. Eight Days A Week serves tasty baked goods and hosts
  open-mic nights every Monday.
  Riverfront, Hoi An | romainslavik.com/shutterstock ©
  TRA QUE VILLAGE
  On the way to An Bang, stop by Tra Que Village for lush fields, lazing water buffaloes and
  farmers hard at work – a far cry from the bustling streets of Hoi An. Named after
  cinnamon tea, this 40-hectare area is renowned for producing quality organic herbs and
  vegetables, thanks to the unique fertiliser they use – a special type of algae harvested
  from a nearby lagoon.
  Stop at Tra Que Vegetable Village to learn about their special farming techniques. Take a
  cooking class at Water Wheel Restaurant to get better acquainted with the produce grown
  in, and food specialities of, the area. Or have a delicious farm-to-table meal at the
  picturesque Baby Mustard Restaurant.
  A Cut Above
  TAILOR-MADE JUST FOR YOU
  The tailoring industry blossomed in Hoi An when it was a
  river port in the 16th and 17th centuries, attracting merchants from all over. Silk
  traders from other parts of Asia settled in Hoi An, making garments from their
  fabric and passing
  tailoring knowledge from one generation to the next. Today, there seems to be at
  least one tailor on every block. And they’re most likely much less expensive
  than what you’d pay elsewhere.
  The cheapest tailors are often found at the Cloth Market, which also boasts
  an array of fabric choices. Sewing Bee at stall No 11 provides a budget-friendly,
  no-frills experience and is a solid option for making copies and simpler
  garments. Another good tailor at the Cloth Market is TaTa Tailor at stall No 5.
  The tailors here are known to produce exact copies and down-to-the-minute
  details, with same-day or next-day turnaround.
  Mr Xe is a midrange tailor that produces shirts and business suits particularly
  well. If he can’t be there for your initial consultation, make sure he’s there for
  the fitting. His cheeky personality makes for a memorable tailoring experience.
  A family business that has been passed down for three generations, Bao An
  Tailor offers high-quality tailoring with impressive attention to detail at a
  modest price tag. The Tailory, also in the midrange block, deserves mention for
  expert craftsmanship, a wide range of quality fabrics with newer designs and
  excellent customer service. High-priced tailor shops offer the holy trifecta:
  quality, reliability and security. More often than not, you’ll get a refund if the
  end product is not to your satisfaction. But be forewarned, these tailors often
  require a lot of fittings, so the turnaround is not as quick as at the lower-end and
  midrange shops.
  Japanese Covered Bridge | Tang Trung Kien/sHUTTERSTOCK ©
  HOI AN SILK VILLAGE
  Once home to craftspeople who worked solely in silkworm farming and silk production,
  Hoi An Silk Village has since reopened as an education centre and museum for sericulture
  and silk goods.
  The four-hour interactive tour lets you try different stages of the mulberry-silk
  production process to get a feel for the time and effort involved in making the silk. Learn to
  feed the caterpillars, unravel the silk and weave the fabric. The guide will show you how to
  identify 100% silk fabrics before leading you to the showroom and store. Depending on
  the time of your tour, you will end with lunch or dinner. If you’re short on time, go for the
  45-minute tour instead.
  WHERE TO BUY SOUVENIRS IN HOI AN
  Reaching Out
  A social enterprise offering beautiful gifts and souvenirs made by people with disabilities.
  Cocobox
  A juice bar and cafe in the Old Town with locally made farm products for sale.
  Gingko
  An Old Town retailer known for its quality T-shirts, accessories and unique graphics.
  Sunday in Hoi An
  A chic store in Old Town with artisanally made home goods, apparel and accessories.
  Lac Viet
  An Old Town jeweller that specialises in custom-made accessories in silver and gold.
  Metiseko
  A sustainable fashion brand from Hoi An that boasts unique prints and quality craftsmanship.
  BEST UNIQUE ACCOMMODATION IN HOI AN
  Flora Villa by NEST
  Bohemian accommodations in Tra Que Village. $
  Lighthouse
  A beachfront villa in South An Bang with a luxe vibe. $$$
  Zen House
  A one-bedroom Japanese-style house within walking distance of Old Town. $$
  The Mansion
  A French colonial house in the Cam Chau neighbourhood with bright and elegant decor.
  $$
  Anicca Villa
  A villa in Cam Chau with a pool and landscaped garden. $$$
  Oryza Villa
  A one-bedroom bungalow nestled among paddy fields in Cam Chau. $$$
  Eat Like a Local
  SAVOUR REGIONAL SPECIALITIES
  A major trading port in ancient days that welcomed merchants from all over the
  world, Hoi An has since morphed into a melting pot of different cultures and
  culinary influences. This richness of techniques and ingredients can be found in
  the area’s food specialities. Cao lau, made with pork, local vegetables and a rich
  bone broth, features unique chewy noodles that are soaked in a wood-ash
  solution mixed with water from Ba Le Well. Have a bowl at Cao Lau Khong
  Gian Xanh, a no-frills eatery tucked away in the Old Town, where thick cuts of
  pork are served with a signature dark sauce. Looking a lot like Chinese dim
  sum, white rose dumplings are stuffed with a mixture of minced shrimp, pork
  and mushroom, and then steamed. The recipe for these delicate morsels is held
  secret by the family that owns White Rose Restaurant.
  Banh Mi Phuong, featured in Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations, does this
  famed baguette exceptionally well. The secret meat sauce is fantastic, and the
  pâté with black peppercorn is scrumptious. But the star of the show is the fresh
  bread, supplied by the bakery next door.
  Almost every country in Southeast Asia has its own version of chicken rice,
  and Vietnam’s version is com ga. Hoi An dresses up this dish with its own mix
  of herbs and onions. The rice is fried to a light crunch, and the chicken broth is
  served on the side. Com Ga Ba Buoi is one of the oldest and most popular com
  ga eateries in town. Throughout the Old Town and beyond, food vendors push
  their carts, hawking tasty treats. Banh xoai (mango cake) is a favourite. The
  name is a misnomer, however, because it’s not a cake and it doesn’t have any
  mango in it. Bite into the stretchy little dumpling to find crushed peanuts and
  granulated sugar stuffed inside.
  WHERE TO WATCH THE SUNSET IN HOI AN
  Roving Chillhouse
  Situated in the midst of rice paddies with comfy loungers in an open-air, rustic space.
  Hoi An Kayak Sunset Tour
  A three-hour excursion along mangrove forests of Nipa palms as the sun sets over the river.
  TOK
  Sit on the restaurant’s chic terrace for glorious views of the sun setting over rice fields.
  Dancing in the Moonlight
  REVEL IN THE FULL MOON
  Every month, on the 14th night of the lunar calendar, the full moon is at its
  brightest, and Hoi An becomes extraordinarily picturesque. The Full Moon
  Festival is when locals pay respect to their ancestors, making offerings and
  burning incense in hopes of health, wealth and good luck. It’s also a time when
  the lights are switched off, and the ancient village is aglow with colourful
  lanterns and candlelight. Even the waterways twinkle as merrymakers release
  small paper lanterns down the Thu Bon River.
  The occasion takes place around the Japanese Covered Bridge, along both
  sides of the Thu Bon River, from dusk to 10pm. During this time, the streets are
  filled with performers, concerts, sideshows, night markets and food stalls. To
  avoid the crowds, go early and take a sampan boat cruise along the river. The
  14th night of the 8th lunar month, which usually falls in late September to early
  October, is a special full moon, when Hoi An celebrates Mid-Autumn Festival,
  when the moon is closest to earth and will be at its biggest and brightest the
  whole year. It’s also a celebration of the harvest, marking the occasion when
  farmers finish work in the fields and can spend more time with their loved ones.
  The locals celebrate this momentous event with mooncakes, a pastry with
  different kinds of fillings.
  Full Moon Festival | kobby dagan/shutterstock ©
  BEST CULTURAL SHOWS IN HOI AN
  Lune Productions
  A Vietnamese cirque with world-class talent and choreography performed in an intimate
  amphitheatre. Shows rotate regularly with its counterpart in Ho Chi Minh City.
  Hoi An Memories Show
  A dazzling performance with 500 actors and dancers depicting centuries of Hoi An’s
  history. Arrive before doors open to enjoy the mini shows, spaced roughly 10 to 15 minutes
  apart.
  CAB Hoian
  A contemporary space that puts on creative theatre, dance and music performances, as
  well as plenty of workshops.
  OLD TOWN AT ITS BEST
  The monthly Full Moon Festival is an extraordinarily beautiful event in the Old Town,
  where lanterns and candles illuminate the Thu Bon River, the locals, and the merry streets.
  GETTING AROUND
  The Old Town is best explored on foot. The countryside and beaches can be explored by
  bicycle, motorbike or car.
  Beyond Hoi An
  More beaches, luxury resorts and cultural sites extend into Hoi An’s
  surroundings, but at an even slower pace of life.
  If you love snorkelling or diving, you shouldn’t miss out on the Cham Island
  archipelago to the east of Hoi An. The Unesco Biosphere is home to many sea
  creatures, and its rainforest and coral reef systems boast the highest levels of
  biodiversity in Vietnam.
  Tucked away in the jungle west of Hoi An, My Son Sanctuary, another
  Unesco-recognised site, offers a glimpse into central Vietnam’s history, with
  Cham relics dating back to the 4th century.
  Nam Hoi An, south of Hoi An, is an eclectic area, with luxury resorts, an 18-
  hole golf course, a casino and an amusement park juxtaposed with a boutique
  rhum agricole (sugarcane-juice rum) distillery and a colourful, muralled fishing
  village.
  Cham Island | avtk/shutterstock ©
  TOP TIP
  Most dive companies halt tours to Cham Island from October to February, when weather and
  water visibility are not ideal.
  GETTING TO CHAM ISLAND
  Cham Island is accessible by ferry or speedboat. Although the slowest form of
  transportation, the public ferry is also the cheapest option, and the easiest on your
  stomach. It launches in the morning near Hoi An Silk Marina Resort and Spa, and from
  Cua Dai Pier. It takes about 1½ hours to get from Cua Dai to Cham Island. In contrast, it
  takes only 20 minutes to get to Cham Island from Cua Dai Pier by speedboat.
  To return to Hoi An from Hon Lao, book through an agent in Bai Lang. Most boats depart
  for Hoi An before 1pm. The chances of getting a ride back after 3pm are rare, so plan
  accordingly.
  Under the Sea
  EMBRACE YOUR INNER MERMAID
  Cham Island dishes up some of the best snorkelling and diving in central
  Vietnam, where you can explore crystal turquoise water and encounter the likes
  of whale sharks, turtles, eagle rays, ghost pipefish and so much more. As such,
  most day tours to the archipelago will provide snorkelling as part of their
  packages.
  To venture deeper into the blue abyss, go on a beginner dive, overnight trip or
  take a PADI course with Cham Island Diving. If you have no diving
  experience, opt for an underwater tour with Seatrek instead.
  If you decide to explore the waters of Cham Island on your own, the ferry or
  speedboat will drop you off at Bai Lang, the main town in Hon Lao and a
  once-upon-a-time trading post. Meander past the restaurants, cafes, homestays
  and souvenir shops to reach Bai Ong, a popular beach filled with smooth white
  sand and coconut trees.
  For a quieter, more authentic respite, make your way to Bai Huong, the
  island’s second-largest village, then trek a short distance downhill to where Bai
  Chong lies. The large beach offers basic amenities like loungers, hammocks
  and refreshments. To protect its pristine environment, the people of Cham
  Island are making a concerted effort to reduce plastic waste by wrapping
  purchases in leaves and placing them into small, reusable sacks. If you bring
  plastic to the island, take it with you when you leave.
  Cham Island | hryhorii patlakha/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY ON CHAM ISLAND
  Crest House Homestay
  A chic, stylish three-bedroom villa in Bai Ong with a kitchen and outdoor grill. $$
  Monkey Homestay & Bar
  Cute beachfront stay in Bai Lang with a rooftop lounge and a lively atmosphere. $
  Island Smiles
  A local homestay in Bai Huong with a motherly host that satisfies your every need. $
  BEST NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
  VinWonders Nam Hoi An
  The largest entertainment complex in Vietnam, housing an amusement park, water park,
  river safari and entertainment.
  Hoiana Golf & Casinos
  This resort is home to Hoiana Shores, a golf course designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr.,
  and Hoiana Casino.
  Tam Thanh Mural Village
  A fishing village transformed by Korean and Vietnamese artists, who painted murals on its
  residential homes.
  Tam Thanh Beach
  A quiet beach with loungers and umbrellas that gets boisterous as the sun sets.
  The Rhum Diaries
  SAMPLE AWARD-WINNING LIQUOR
  Distillerie d’Indochine, home of Sampan Rhum, lies just 15km from the Old
  Town in a tiny, quiet fishing village in Nam Hoi An. Most locals and expats,
  however, are unaware that a boutique distillery exists in their own backyard, let
  alone that it produces award-winning rhum agricole.
  The small operation is led by co-owner and master distiller, Antoine
  Poircuitte, who comes from a long line of French liquor makers. His influence
  is evident in the imported copper still that dominates the fermentation room and
  the stacked, vintage oak barrels that house their ageing rhum. But that’s as far as
  the French touch goes. The rhum itself is made from native sugarcane, sourced
  less than 40km from the distillery. A deliberate strategy, the proximity
  minimises the time between cut and press and guarantees the freshest sugarcane
  juice possible. The conditions for distilling rhum in central Vietnam are also
  ideal, as the region shares the same latitude as the French Caribbean, where
  rhum agricole was born.
  Combining generational distilling expertise, a passion for rhum and a love of
  Vietnam, Poircuitte manages to capture the exquisite, tangy brightness of the
  country’s sun-soaked coast into a modest 750ml bottle. Distillerie d’Indochine
  offers three white rhums and an aged rhum matured in cognac casks, and is
  open for guided tours, tastings and lounging in the garden.
  My Son Sanctuary | roman babakin/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY BEYOND HOI AN
  The AN Retreat Hoi An
  A contemporary and utterly zen oasis with glorious paddy views and animals all around. $$
  AnnaBo Tam Thanh Beach House
  Bright bohemian digs with comfy beds right on the beach for great seaside views. $$
  The Four Seasons Nam Hai
  Decadent, 5-star villa accommodation modelled after the traditional garden homes of
  Vietnam. $$$
  THE BEST ROUTE TO MY SON
  The are several ways to get to My Son from Hoi An. The most scenic and safest route takes
  you through the quiet countryside, past rows of cornfields and under the shadow of tall
  bamboo. Small roads, which cannot accommodate big trucks and buses, make up a good
  portion of the journey.
  Starting in Hoi An, go across Cam Kim Bridge before heading to Nam Phuoc and ending at
  My Son. On the way back, cross Cua Dai Bridge instead of Cam Kim Bridge. Then, ride the
  narrow path along the river and the palm mangroves until it takes you to Tra Que Vegetable
  Village.
  Serenity Now
  EXPLORE HINDU RUINS
  For over ten centuries, the Champa kingdom ruled the lands of modern-day
  central Vietnam. Between the 4th and 13th centuries, they built My Son
  Sanctuary, a Hindu temple complex, in a 2km-wide valley surrounded by hills
  and mountains. The secluded site served as the kingdom’s political and religious
  capital for much of its existence in Vietnam.
  After centuries of occupying My Son and central Vietnam, the Cham
  abandoned their sacred land and found new settlements further south as the Dai
  Viet people pushed in from the north, looking to expand their country.
  My Son quickly became engulfed by the jungle and forgotten until a French
  scholar was led to the ruins by local farmers in 1898. Consequently, the French
  School of the Far East began research on the site, and restoration of the area
  began in the 1930s. Later, as My Son was used by the North Vietnamese Army
  during the American War, it was targeted by American bombs and landmines,
  which destroyed some of the structures.
  The Unesco World Heritage Site now houses 70 fully or partially intact
  temples, most of which were dedicated to the Hindu goddess Shiva, with each
  one sporting different structural styles that reflect different historical stages of
  the Champa kingdom.
  Walk the pathways of the sanctuary, enter the temples and see the ancient
  carvings up close. Take note of the war damage throughout the site, including
  bomb craters that have been preserved as reminders of the war. Visit the
  sanctuary’s museum for information about artefacts, the area’s history and the
  Cham culture, and enjoy local dancers performing Cham’s iconic Shiva and
  Apsara dances to folk music in full costume.
  GETTING AROUND
  The remoteness of these places beyond Hoi An means you’ll need a motorbike to get
  around. Hiring a car or booking a tour is also possible.
  SOUTHEAST COAST
  ENDLESS SANDS AND COMPELLING SITES
  Beyond the beach there are lively coastal cities and fine Cham ruins to
  investigate.
  Mui Ne | huy thoai/shutterstock ©
  A region blessed with outstanding natural beauty, this fabled coastline of golden
  sands and glorious bays is Vietnam’s premier destination for beach holidays.
  You’ll find terrific experiences and memorable sights on every step of your
  journey here.
  Cultural interest is profound, with evocative Cham temples, historic
  monuments built by the region’s original inhabitants, dotted along the entire
  coast as well as fascinating Buddhist pagodas in every town. The sombre war
  memorial at Son My is another important site not to be missed, a deeply moving
  monument where many pay their respects to the fallen.
  Nha Trang and Mui Ne attract the headlines, but the beach breaks come thick
  and fast in this part of the country. Set aside a few days to explore further and
  you’ll find that hidden bays, lonely lighthouses and a barefoot vibe are all in
  reach. To escape the crowds head for the little cove of Bai Xep or remote beach
  of My Hoa. Activities to set the pulse racing include world-class kitesurfing,
  diving, snorkelling, surfing and sailing. Or rent a bike or even a scooter and
  weave your way around backroads of emerald-green rice paddies.
  Everywhere you travel you’ll find amazing cuisine to try.
  Seafood is the big draw, with each town boasting a strip of shoreside shacks
  where you can feast on delicacies like steamed clams or tamarind crab, salt-andpepper
  squid or caramelised shrimp.
  Po Nagar Cham Towers | ender bayindir/shutterstock ©
  THE MAIN AREAS
  QUANG NHAI & SON MY
  Gateway to Son My.
  QUY NHON
  City slicker.
  NHA TRANG
  Bombastic bech resort.
  MUI NE
  Kitesurfing hotspot.
  VUNG TAU
  Coastal escape.
  Find Your Way
  This stunning region includes in a considerable chunk of Vietnam’s best
  coastline, three intriguing cities and offers all sorts of leisure pleasure,
  from mud baths to diving.
  Plan Your Days
  There’s a lot to pack in on this coastline, where the beaches come thick
  and fast and you’re never far away from a Cham temple or Buddhist
  pagoda.
  Mud spas | dreamarchitect/shutterstock ©
  If You Only Do One Thing
• Head for Nha Trang, which has excellent airport and trains links with the rest of the
  country.
• Begin exploring at the wonderful Po Nagar Cham Towers to get a feel of the region’s
  history and ancient architecture. Cross the Cai River and visit the Dam Market for bargain
  hunting and a tropical fruit snack. Then take in the Long Son Pagoda and seated
  Buddha followed by Nha Trang Cathedral.
• In the afternoon chill on the city’s beach by the Sailing Club, lingering for a sundowner
  before dining on Thap Ba..
  Four Days Exploring
• Start in Nha Trang taking in the city’s beachfront, Cham ruins and Buddhist sites and
  perhaps sampling some street food.
• On your second day book a boat trip for island-hopping around the bay or visit one of
  the city’s famed mud spas. Then it’s north to Quy Nhon for another couple of nights,
  exploring the promenade, museum, Cham towers and enjoying a seafood meal.
• The following day head down to idyllic Bai Xep for a totally relaxing day by the coast,
  before returning to Quy Nhon for dinner.
  If You Have More Time
• If you’ve a week or so begin in Mui Ne and book a kitesurfing or sailing taster, followed
  by a tour of the sand dunes.
• The next day investigate Phan Thiet, its riverside and whale temple on a day trip, then a
  wander along the Fairy Spring.
• Next it’s up to Nha Trang for more beach time and sightseeing, and a trip up the coast
  to the delights of Quy Nhon; if you do this journey by road you can pause at the curious
  rocky outcrop of Ganh Da Dia en route.
  Seasonal Highlights
  Festivals and events are distributed throughout the year. As Vietnam
  uses a lunar calendar exact dates vary from year to year.
  JANUARY
  Expect cooler temperatures in the north of the region, while south of
  Nha Trang it’s an ideal time for a beach holiday.
  dima photographer/shutterstock ©
  FEBRUARY
  Tet (Vietnamese New Year) usually falls in this month, so expect
  transport disruption as families reunite for celebrations.
  elizaveta galitckaia/shutterstock ©
  JULY
  Expect clear skies and high temperatures, it’s the perfect time to
  sample the delights of the region’s beautiful beaches.
  dreamarchitect/shutterstock ©
  AUGUST
  To Hap (southwest of Nha Trang) hosts a fruit festival early in the
  month, expect some seriously big durians on display.
  aleksandr medvedkov/shutterstock ©
  SEPTEMBER
  At Pham Thiet’s Ong pagoda thousands attend a festival dedicated to
  the whale deity, with classical dramas and folk songs.
  anna art/shutterstock ©
  OCTOBER
  See Cham people celebrate the kate festival at Po Klong Garai temple.
  Storms can affect the region, expect some rain.
  quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock©
  DECEMBER
  Enjoy Christmas and New Year in Mui Ne with optimal kitesurfing and
  windsurfing conditions.
  wallenrock/shutterstock ©
  QUANG NGAI & SON MY
  Most visitors only pause briefly in Quang Ngai to pay their respects to the
  victims of the most infamous atrocity of the American War at nearby Son My.
  But this small city’s relaxed air and riverside setting are appealing, and you’ll
  find good local food specialties to try.
  A short trip away by road, the Son My memorial is dedicated to those who
  died during the worst massacres in the war between the USA and Vietnam. It’s
  rightly an essential, if very sobering stop for many travellers. This barbarity was
  one of the pivotal moments of the Vietnam conflict, shaping public perceptions
  in the USA and across the world.
  Just east of Son My is a lovely beach, My Khe, with excellent swimming and
  a strip of seafood restaurants.
  TOP TIP
  There’s no public transport between Quang Nhai and Son My. Taxis charge 175,000d for the
  13km trip or you could cycle there in around 45 minutes. It’s an easy 1.5km stroll from the Son
  My memorial to the lovely beach at My Khe.
  BEST RESTAURANTS IN QUANG NGAI
  Cat Vang
  Covers all bases with succulent seafood, fine rice dishes and great grilled goat and com ga
  (boiled chicken). $
  Vuon Hong Com Chay
  A serious feast, offering an amazing spread of Viet veggie dishes, presented in buffet style.
  $
  Duc Chien
  Try the outstanding prawns in sweet chilli sauce, which you barbecue yourself, or one of
  the good crab dishes. It’s on the beachfront in My Khe. $$
  Viet Chay Sala
  Vegetarian restaurant with terrific tofu, noodles and soups – all beautifully presented and
  served with dips and sauces. No booze. $
  A Relaxed Riverside Town
  REMEMBERING THE AMERICAN WAR
  Clinging to the south bank of the Tra Kruc river, the sleepy, small city of
  Quang Ngai has a decent range of hotels and guesthouses and tempting eating
  options, though no real sights. While in town try the local specialty, com ga,
  boiled chicken over yellow rice (steamed with chicken broth) with mint, egg,
  soup and pickled vegetables.
  Even before WWII, Quang Ngai was an important centre of resistance
  against the French. In 1962, the South Vietnamese government introduced its
  ill-fated Strategic Hamlets Program here. Villagers were forcibly removed from
  their homes and resettled in fortified hamlets, infuriating and alienating the
  local population and increasing popular support for the Viet Cong (VC).
  Northeast of the town (and just a couple of kilometres east of Son My), My
  Khe beach has fine white sand and good swimming. It stretches for kilometres
  along a thin, casuarina-lined spit of sand, separated from the mainland by Song
  Kinh Giang, a body of water just inland from the beach. If you avoid holidays
  and weekends you have a good chance of having this pretty beach largely to
  yourself. The shoreline’s profile is gently shelving so it’s great for children.
  Dozens of seafood shacks are spread along the shore, all in a line, and gallons
  of beer are guzzled on warm weekends.
  Statue commemorating the My Lai massacre | mundosemfim/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY IN QUANG NGAI
  Tron Home
  Simple, clean homestay with modern rooms and motorbike rental. On the north side of the
  river. $
  My Khe Hotel
  Mid-sized hotel right on the beach at My Khe with good-value rooms, all with attractive
  furnishings. $$
  Cocoland River Beach Resort
  Set in tropical gardens studded with coconut palms with attractive accommodation, gym, spa
  and pool. $$$
  Pham Thi Thuan, a survivor of the My Lai massacre, visits the mass grave site in Son My village | nhac
  nguyen/contributor/getty images ©
  A COVER UP
  Troops who participated in the massacre were ordered to keep their mouths shut by high
  command, but several disobeyed including helicopter pilot Hugh Thompson Jr who
  managed to rescue several women and children.
  When the story broke, it had devastating impact on US military moral. It fuelled public
  protests against the war, in America and across the globe.
  A cover-up of the atrocities was undertaken at all levels of the US Army command,
  eventually leading to several investigations. Lieutenant William Calley, leader of the 1st
  Platoon, was court-martialled and found guilty of the murders of 22 unarmed civilians. He
  was sentenced to life imprisonment in 1971 and spent three years under house arrest. The
  US Supreme Court refused to hear his case and he was paroled.
  Remembering a Massacre
  THE US’S DEEP SHAME
  In peaceful countryside off Hwy 1, Son My’s rural location was the setting for
  one of the most horrific crimes of the American War, a massacre committed by
  US troops that killed 504 villagers, many of them elderly and children, on 16
  March 1968.
  Though the area had been regarded as a Viet Cong stronghold, the US
  military encountered no resistance during the ‘combat-assault’, nor did they
  come under fire at any time. Somewhere between 75 and 150 unarmed villagers
  were rounded up and herded to a ditch, where they were executed by machinegun
  fire. Fleeing villagers were shot and bayoneted, grenades thrown into
  houses, and at least four women were raped.
  The deeply poignant Son My Memorial was constructed as a monument to
  their memory. Centred on a dramatic stone sculpture of an elderly woman
  holding up her fist in defiance, a dead child in her arms, the structure rises high
  above the landscape.
  Surrounding the main sculpture, scenes have been recreated in gardens to
  reflect that fateful day. Burnt-out shells of homes stand in their original
  locations, each marked with a plaque listing the names and ages of the family
  that once resided there.
  Known as the My Lai massacre in the US, the killing was painstakingly
  documented by an American military photographer, and these graphic images
  are now the focus of a powerful on-site museum. The content is incredibly
  harrowing: villagers are shown cowering from troops, and there are corpses of
  children. The display ends on a hopeful note, chronicling the efforts of the local
  people to rebuild their lives afterwards. A section honours the GIs who tried to
  stop the carnage, shielding a group of villagers from certain death, and those
  responsible for blowing the whistle.
  GETTING AROUND
  Trains stop at Quang Ngai Train Station, which is on the main Hanoi–HCMC line, 1.5km
  west of the town centre. Regular buses head from the centrally located terminal to all
  major stops on Hwy 1, including Danang and Quy Nhon. The nearest airport is Chu Lai
  (VCL), 36km north of Quang Ngai, with connections to both Hanoi and HCMC.
  QUY NHON
  Emerging as one of the southeast coast’s key destinations, the graceful beach
  city of Quy Nhon makes an excellent base for a few days. Many travellers
  spend their time here exploring the surrounding coastline by day and enjoying
  the city’s excellent seafood restaurants at night. With a population of around
  475,000, Quy Nhon is both an important port (with a large fishing fleet) and
  also a popular holiday resort. Its laid-back ambience and seaside appeal make it
  the kind of place that affluent Vietnamese couples choose to retire to, spending
  their final days ocean-gazing and promenade-walking. In recent years Quy
  Nhon has been steadily shaking off its somewhat provincial reputation, and
  there’s a lively cafe and bar scene worth investigating, though little in the way
  of nightlife. The city’s upwardly mobile skyline is also quickly changing
  beyond all recognition as a glut of towering new apartment and hotel blocks rise
  south of the centre.
  SIGHTS
  1 Binh Dinh Museum
  2 Ð Xuan Dieu
  3 Municipal Beach
  4 Thap Doi Cham Towers
  5 Tran Hung Dao Statue
  EATING
  6 Quy Nhon
  TOP TIP
  While Quy Nhon doesn’t have a city airport, Phu Cat airport is only 31km north of town. It’s
  recently been upgraded and now has many useful flight connections. Four airlines operate
  from Phu Cat, flying to cities in Vietnam including Can Tho, Haiphong, Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City,
  Thanh Hoa and Vinh.
  BEST RESTAURANTS IN QUY NHON
  Roll your own meal at this authentic banh xeo place, with shrimp and beef options served
  with a fiery chilli dip sauce. $
  Sisters Tavern & Pizza
  For authentic pizza and pasta dishes, tasty salads, paninis, ribs and wine by the glass, look
  no further. $$
  Com Chay Phuoc Duyen
  Scores highly for flavoursome vegetarian dishes; the good value buffet is a winner. $
  C.ine
  Fine seafood restaurant with views over the bay; try the sweet soft-shell crab, scallops or
  snail dishes. $$
  Along the Prom
  A SEAFRONT MEANDER
  Quy Nhon boasts a terrific beach-blessed shoreline, lined with an impressive
  promenade which extends from the port area to distant wooded hills in the
  south. It’s been given a major facelift in recent years and is fringed by a
  beautiful stretch of golden sand.
  Along Ð Xuan Dieu, famous for its seaside restaurants, the beach is quite
  slim, but heading southwest past a vast plaza and its striking socialist-realist
  war memorial, the sands become broader and swimming spots more inviting.
  Staying in this part of town you can start your day with a refreshing dip in the
  sea; in the hot summer months you’ll be joined by dozens of excited
  Vietnamese families escaping the tropical heat. In the tidy, litter-free gardens
  which border the beach seniors practise Tai Chi and keep-fit routines.
  Looking east across the bay from here, a giant statue of Tran Hung Dao, the
  hugely revered Tan dynasty general who defeated two Mongol invasions, marks
  the headland opposite. At night the bright lights of offshore boats fishing for
  squid give the illusion of a floating village far out to sea.
  Quy Nhon | hien phung thu/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY IN QUY NHON
  King Hotel
  With moderate rates, clean rooms, helpful English-speaking staff and motorbike rental, this is
  a fine choice. $
  John & Paul Inn
  A well-run hostel offering inviting, well-kept dorms and private rooms with a rock bar
  downstairs. $
  Le Mint Hotel Quy Nhon
  Stylish midrange hotel with boutique appeal, small pool and free bicycles for guests. $$
  A MONGOL INVASION
  Quy Nhon’s deepwater harbour has been one of Vietnam’s most important ports for at
  least 800 years. In Cham times it was known as Sri Banoy, a gateway to their city of Vijaya,
  and a key stop on the maritime route linking China with the Middle East and Europe.
  Following a failed invasion of Japan, Mongol emperor Kublai Khan turned his focus to the
  Champa kingdom instead, sailing south along the South China Sea with an armada of 350
  ships bearing 10,000 troops in 1282. His forces attacked and occupied Sri Banoy and
  Vijaya, forcing the Cham king Indravarman V to flee inland. But the Mongol invasion was
  short lived as they suffered with the tropical heat, diseases, a lack of supplies and from
  Cham ambushes. They abandoned their base in 1284, and Kublai Khan targeted northern
  Vietnam instead.
  City Museum
  CHECKING OUT CHAM ART
  The small Binh Dinh Museum concentrates on regional history and has some
  superb Cham sculptures. The entry hall focuses on the glories of local
  communism, while the room to the left has a natural history section and exhibits
  devoted to tribal culture. Impressive Cham relics fill the rear room, including an
  astonishing 12th-century statue of the Goddess Mahishasuramardini. The room
  to the right is devoted to the American War.
  Also check out the silk print (by Zuy Nhat, 1959) in the lobby showing an
  overweight French colonist sitting aloft mandarins, in turn supported by
  bureaucrats, and cruel bosses, with the struggling masses supporting the whole
  ensemble.
  Thap Doi Cham Towers | david nguyen vn/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO DRINK IN QUY NHON
  Quy Nhon Sports Bar
  Serving craft beer and comfort grub; the owner is a mine of info about Quy Nhon and
  organises local tours.
  69 Pub
  A lively, social space with cheap beer, decent cocktails and filling meals, particularly
  breakfasts.
  Cafe 1990
  Good bet for all your caffeine needs, and in the evening there’s live music.
  Twin Temples
  AN ANCIENT ARCHITECTURAL SITE
  North of the centre, the Thap Doi Cham Towers are located a pretty park. Steep
  steps lead up to this pair of beautiful temples, which are open to the sky.
  Atypically for Cham architecture, they have curved pyramidal roofs rather than
  the usual terracing. The larger tower (20m tall) retains some of its ornate
  brickwork and remnants of the granite statuary that once graced its summit. The
  dismembered torsos of garuda (half-human, half-bird) can be seen at the corners
  of the roofs.
  QUY NHON CUISINE
  As a coastal city, Quy Nhon is unsurprisingly famous for its seafood and there is an
  outstanding range of restaurants on the main bayside road Ð Xuan Dieu. Other local
  specialities include banh xeo (rice paper pancakes with shrimp or beef, salad leaves, bean
  sprouts, green mango, sliced cucumber and a dash of chilli sauce) and bun ca (noodle
  soup with spiced fishcakes and blanched vegetables).
  A Hospital for Healing
  CARING FOR LEPERS AND THEIR FAMILIES
  At a lovely shoreside spot, 6km south of Quy Nhon, Paul Maheu, a French
  priest, founded the Quy Hoa Leper Hospital in 1929, when many in Vietnam
  believed the disease was highly contagious, leading to fear and ostracism.
  Today it’s more of a dermatology clinic, and encompasses a model village.
  Back in the mid-1970s there were over 5000 patients here but numbers have
  dwindled to a few hundred. The descendants of affected families continue to
  live together in this well-kept community.
  The hospital grounds are well maintained, complete with numerous busts of
  distinguished and historically important doctors, both Vietnamese and foreign.
  Depending on their abilities, patients work in shoe-making, tending rice
  fields and in fishing. There’s also a workshop where prosthetic limbs and
  special shoes are crafted, though you’ll probably need permission from the
  director of the institution to visit it.
  Fronting the village is Quy Hoa Beach, a lovely stretch of sand and a
  popular weekend hang-out.
  CHAM CULTURE
  Quy Nhon was an important settlement in the Champa kingdom. For more on the ancient
  Cham civilisation, which was the dominant culture along the Vietnamese coastline until
  1471, its religion and people.
  A Space Complex
  SOLAR SCIENCE
  The landmark ExploraScience Quy Nhon discovery center is 6km south of the
  city, with exhibits on Space Exploration, the Solar System, Mars Exploration,
  the Earth and Natural Resources. It opened to the public in 2021 in spacious
  grounds and is essentially a science-themed attraction geared to students eager
  to learn about space. The principle exhibit is a huge audio-visual display of the
  solar system, with information in Vietnamese and English. School groups
  account for most visitors, and at present it’s only open to the public on
  Tuesdays, or weekends (if you book in advance).
  GETTING AROUND
  Quy Nhon’s central area is fairly compact. You can walk the length of the municipal beach,
  from the eastern end of Ð Xuan Dieu to its southern edge on Ð An Duong Vuong, in less
  than an hour. Scooters and cycles are available from guesthouses; try the King Hotel.
  Beyond Quy Nhon
  With stunning cove beaches to investigate, it pays to budget a few extra
  days to make the most of this coast.
  The peninsula east of Quy Nhon has a number of lovely sandy bays, but this
  area is being developed with golf courses, themed tourist resorts and huge hotel
  complexes so tread carefully: the famed Ky Co beach is undeniably beautiful
  but can get very crowded.
  South of Quy Nhon the shoreline is still a delight to explore, indented with
  little coves like Bai Xep. Other near-deserted beaches are located just off the
  coastal road as you head down towards the Cau An Hai bridge, where there’s a
  clutch of seafood restaurants by a river estuary.
  Continuing further south there’s more fine scenery en route to Ganh Da Dia,
  with many tempting spots for a swim.
  Ky Co beach | hien phung thu/shutterstock ©
  TOP TIP
  Consider renting a motorbike or car and driver to get around this area as public transport
  options are slim (except buses to Bai Xep).
  MANGROVE TRIPS
  It’s now possible to explore the lovely river estuary, extensive mangroves and shrimp
  farms north of Quy Nhon by boat. The nearest village is Phuoc Son, and boats leave from
  the Gio Dam restaurant. Birdlife is excellent, with lots of storks and waders in evidence.
  Tours are best arranged in Quy Nhon (contact Docker, owner of the Quy Nhon Sports Bar)
  who can set you up with an English-speaking guide. Rates are 600,000d per person
  (minimum five people). Overnight camping trips are also possible.
  Find a Sheltered Cove
  BAREFOOT BEACH VIBES (3PP)
  Located 13km south of Quy Nhon by road, the pretty bay of Bai Xep was very
  much an isolated fishing village just a few years back. Times have changed and
  the settlement now attracts a steady stream of independent travellers, but this
  beach’s relaxed appeal is considerable and its beauty remains undeniable.
  Bai Xep consists of two small coves. The northernmost cove, Bai Truoc
  (‘Front Beach’), is a busy little fishing port with a warren of lanes of tightly
  packed houses and a small bay strewn with fishing tackle and boats.
  Just to the south is the larger, more attractive Bai Sau (‘Back Beach’), which
  has an expanding range of accommodation, each place facing a stunning
  crescent-shaped sandy bay that offers wonderful swimming. Despite increasing
  development (including an incongruous mini high-rise) this is still one of the
  most relaxed beach resorts in Vietnam, the barefoot vibe reminiscent of remote
  Thai or Cambodian islands. It’s easy to lose track of time here, chilling in a
  hammock, socialising with locals and fellow travellers, and exploring the
  stunning coastline and islands offshore. And if tropical luxury is more appealing
  than dorm beds, there are now fine new options here too like Anantara Quy
  Nhon Villas.
  Guesthouses can arrange island-hopping boat trips including some
  snorkelling, cooking classes and motorbike hire. There’s also some surf here
  between October and March (ask at the Haven guesthouse for boards to hire).
  Just 3km south of Bai Xep, the beautiful white-sand crescent of Bai Bau is
  no more than 150m wide, sheltered by rocky headlands and with a mountainous
  backdrop. It can get busy on the weekend and during Vietnamese holidays, but
  midweek you’ll likely have the place to yourself.
  Bai Xep | fabio lamanna/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY IN BAI XEP
  Life’s a Beach
  A great place to socialise with other travellers, on a beachfront with a choice of dorms and
  bungalows. $
  Haven
  Haven occupies a terrific beachside spot in Bai Xep, and most rooms have excellent sea views.
  Try the pizza too. $$
  Avani Quy Nhon Resort & Spa
  A luxury hotel where all rooms have ocean vistas. There’s a lovely pool, fine-dining options and
  an excellent spa. $$$
  BAI BAU BEACH
  Bai Bau is a beautiful white-sand crescent no more than 150m wide, sheltered by rocky
  headlands and with a mountainous backdrop. It can get busy on the weekend and during
  Vietnamese holidays, but midweek you’ll likely have the place to yourself. The beach is just
  3km south of Bai Xep and 16km from Quy Nhon and you’ll find a scattering of guesthouses
  above the bay including Chill Bungalow and Rubeach Hotel & Restaurant.
  Exploring the Eastern Beaches
  REMOTE BAYS
  Backed by coastal cliffs, the drop-dead-gorgeous cove beach of Ky Co is 23km
  east of Quy Nhon. Its turquoise waters and fine pale sands have not gone
  unnoticed by the Instagram crowd, and it’s wildly popular with day-tripping
  domestic tourists, so visit early or late in the day if possible and avoid
  weekends. You may want to pass on it completely in the high season months
  (July and August). Note that access is tricky and there’s an entrance charge of
  150,000d per person (included a 4WD shuttle from the car park).
  Unfortunately the surrounding area is being very intensively developed for
  mass tourism with several huge hotel complexes, golf courses, a zoo and
  themed villages. For now the lovely sandy bay of Bai Tam Cat Hai remains
  peaceful and with a 3km arc of sand to enjoy it never gets too crowded.
  Ganh Da Dia | nguyen quang ngoc tonkin/shutterstock ©
  ONG NUI TEMPLE
  Located 25km north of Quy Nhon, one of the biggest seated Buddhas in Southeast Asia
  enjoys a commanding hillside location with sweeping sea views. Access is via a vertiginous
  600-step pathway lined with 18 arhats. There’s an ancient pagoda here, below the
  Buddha, which dates back at least 300 years, although it’s been rebuilt over the centuries.
  The Cliff of Stone Plates
  STONES BY THE SEA
  A smaller version of Ireland’s Giant’s Causeway, Ganh Da Dia is a spectacular
  outcrop of volcanic rock that juts into the ocean 78km south of Quy Nhon. Half
  the fun is simply getting there, as the scenery in this coastal region is superb.
  Consisting of hundreds of interlocked columns of volcanic rock, Ganh Da
  Dia was created millions of years ago as fluid molten basalt cooled. Some of the
  best sections are formed of incredibly regular pentagonal- and hexagonal-sided
  horizontal rocks. The Vietnamese call this place ‘the cliff of stone plates’, and
  it’s regularly used by Buddhist monks for ceremonies.
  You can bathe in the tiny rocky cove next to Ganh Da Dia, but the drop-dead
  gorgeous sandy beach on the south side of the bay, a five-minute walk away, is
  even more inviting. Fresh coconuts and snacks are sold by local villagers at the
  car park.
  Ganh Da Dia is signposted from the small town of Chi Thanh, 68km south of
  Quy Nhon. The route to the coast meanders for 13km through a delightful
  pastoral landscape of rice paddies and farming villages.
  Continuing south (and avoiding Highway 1) you can take a lovely coastal
  road to Tuy Hoa. Head inland (west) from Ganh Da Dia for 3.5km and then a
  side (paved) road heads south through sand dunes and past cacti and agave to
  the fishing village of An Hai, where a row of seafood restaurants faces the O
  Loan estuary and makes an ideal pit stop.
  VOLCANIC ROCK
  Consisting of hundreds of interlocked columns of volcanic rock, Ganh Da Dia was created
  millions of years ago as fluid molten basalt cooled.
  GETTING AROUND
  Public transport is limited in these parts, though regular local buses connect Bai Xep with
  Quy Nhon. To make the most of the area, a scooter is very useful. Otherwise hire a car and
  driver; a day trip in a car (with sightseeing stops) from Quy Nhon to Nha Trang will cost
  around US$120. Docker, the owner of Quy Nhon Sports Bar, can organise trips in the
  region.
  NHA TRANG
  Vietnam’s premier beach resort is a bombastic high-rise affair, wildly popular
  with Asian package tourists. Subtle it’s not, with an ever-growing number of
  towers lining the shore, but at least the setting is stunning: ringed by a necklace
  of hills opposite a turquoise bay dotted with tropical islands.
  Nha Trang’s sweeping crescent beach of white sand is backed by an
  impressive promenade dotted with parks and sculpture gardens. Inland there’s a
  cosmopolitan array of boutiques and dining options. As restaurants wind down,
  nightlife cranks up – central Nha Trang is a party town at heart. Until a few
  years ago a lot of the bar action was geared at the backpacker market, but today
  it’s mainly aimed at locals and Korean visitors.
  There are more sedate activities on offer, too. Try an old-school spa treatment
  with a visit to a mudbath, book a river cruise or explore the ancient Cham
  towers north of the centre.
  HIGHLIGHTS
  1 Alexandre Yersin Museum
  2 Hon Chong Promontory
  3 Nha Trang Beach
  4 Nha Trang Cathedral
  5 Po Nagar Cham Towers
  ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS
  6 I Resort
  7 Thap Ba Hot Spring Center
  TOP TIP
  Nha Trang is fringed in the north by the Cai River and Son mountain and to the south by the
  Chut mountain and Dong Bo river. Between these landmarks is a gorgeous arc of sandy
  shoreline. The city does not extend far inland, so most hotels and restaurants are close to the
  beach.
  BEACH TIME
  Nha Trang’s 6km-long golden-sand beach is the city’s trump card. Sections are roped off
  and designated for safe swimming (where you won’t be bothered by jet skis or boats).
  Sunloungers are available for hire and there are numerous snack bars. Behind the beach,
  the promenade a delight to stroll or perfect for jogging. The best beach weather is
  generally before 1pm, as the afternoon sea breezes can whip up the sand.
  Riverside Ruins
  A HOLY CHAM SITE
  Built between the 7th and 12th centuries, the Po Nagar Cham Towers are still
  actively used for worship by Cham, Chinese and Vietnamese Buddhists. The
  towers stand on a granite knoll 3km north of central Nha Trang, on the northern
  bank of the Cai River. The towers serve as the Holy See, honouring Yang Ino
  Po Nagar, the goddess of the Dua (Liu) clan, which ruled over the southern part
  of the Cham kingdom. There are inscribed stone slabs scattered throughout the
  complex, most of which relate to history or religion and provide insight into the
  spiritual life and social structure of the Cham.
  All the temples face east, as did the original entrance to the complex, which
  is to the right as you ascend the hillock. In centuries past, worshippers passed
  through the pillared meditation hall, 10 pillars of which can still be seen, before
  proceeding up the steep staircase to the towers.
  The complex originally had seven or eight towers, but only four remain, of
  which the 28m-high North Tower (Thap Chinh; AD 817), with a terraced
  pyramidal roof, vaulted interior masonry and vestibule, is the most magnificent.
  In 918, King Indravarman III placed a gold mukha-linga (carved phallus with
  a human face painted on it) in the North Tower, but it was taken by Khmer
  raiders. This pattern of statues being destroyed or stolen and then replaced
  continued until 965, when King Jaya Indravarman IV replaced the gold mukhalinga
  with the stone figure, Uma (Shakti, or the female consort of Shiva), which
  remains to this day.
  Above the entrance to the North Tower, two musicians, one of whose feet is
  on the head of the bull Nandin, flank a dancing four-armed Shiva. The
  sandstone doorposts are covered with inscriptions, as are parts of the walls of
  the vestibule. In the 28m-high pyramidal main chamber there is a black-stone
  statue of the goddess Uma with 10 arms, two of which are hidden under her
  vest; she is seated and leaning back against a monstrous beast.
  The Central Tower (Thap Nam) was built partly of recycled bricks in the
  12th century on the site of a structure dating from the 7th century. It is less
  finely constructed than the other towers and has little ornamentation; the
  pyramidal roof lacks terracing or pilasters, although the interior altars were once
  covered with silver. There is a linga inside the main chamber. The South Tower
  (Mieu Dong Nam), at one time dedicated to Sandhaka (Shiva), still shelters a
  linga, while the richly ornamented Northwest Tower (Thap Tay Bac) was
  originally dedicated to Ganesh. This site has a continuing religious significance,
  so be sure to remove your shoes before entering and wear respectful clothing.
  Po Nagar Cham Towers | ovchinnikova irina/shutterstock ©
  BUDDHIST SITES
  The striking Long Son Pagoda, founded in the late 19th century, is located on the west
  side of the city. Its entrance and roofs are decorated with mosaic dragons constructed of
  glass and ceramic tile, while the main sanctuary is a hall adorned with modern
  interpretations of traditional motifs.
  On a hilltop behind the Long Son Pagoda, a huge white Buddha is seated on a lotus
  blossom and commands magnificent views of the city. Around the statue’s base are fireringed
  relief busts of Thich Quang Duc and six other Buddhist monks who died in selfimmolations
  in 1963, in protest against the repression of Buddhists by the South
  Vietnamese Government.
  Watch out for pushy touts flogging overpriced incense sticks and others seeking money
  ‘for the monks’; use the official donation boxes. Dress respectfully (no shorts are
  permitted).
  WHERE TO EAT STREET FOOD IN NHA TRANG
  Seafood Street
  On Thap Ba, hit these seafood joints for steamed or barbecued clams, crab and prawns. $
  Banh Xeo Stand
  Superb banh xeo (rice-flour pancakes with shrimp and bean sprouts) opposite the Cham
  Towers. $
  79 Dung Lin
  Famous for barbecued duck, served with salad, dips and rice. $

EXPLORING NHA TRANG WALKING TOUR
Begin by the 1 Cai Riverside. If you’re here in the early morning you can watch fishing boats
return to the city to unload their holds of great tuna and pelagics caught far offshore. Head
south along Ð Van Hoa to the huge concrete 2 Dam Market to browse the hundreds of
stalls; there’s a lot of cheap, definitely dodgy designer clothes to wade through and an
amazing array of dried fish, squid and shrimp. Food stalls are in a separate building set to
one side. The market is busiest in the morning and winds down by mid-afternoon.
Head southwest along Ð Hai Ba Trung towards the beach and the 3 Alexandre Yersin
Museum, one of the nation’s foremost scientific institutions. From here you’re steps away
from the 4 Khanh Hoa Museum with its displays on local history and archeological items.
Continue along the attractive promenade where locals enjoy dance classes and badminton
games in the morning before the tropical heat kicks in.
You’ll pass the city’s curious 5 tourist information building, said to be modelled on a
lotus flower, though it looks more like a stubby pink rocket. Just inland from here there’s a
popular 6 night market on Ð Nguyen Thi, firmly geared at the tourist trade, with T-shirts
and souvenirs for westerners and snacking stalls popular with Viets.
Continuing south there are more parks, shaded by coconut palms, until you reach the 7
Sailing Club, a local institution, with elegant seating and a pricey menu. Big beach parties
are held here on summer evenings with DJs and crowds of thousands.
A Medical Pioneer
MUSEUM WITH A MISSION
Alexandre Yersin Museum is one of those rewarding provincial museums with a
focus rather than displaying a potpourri of dusty ceramics and the like. It’s
located in an elegant seafront mansion, the former home of the Swiss-French
scientist Dr Alexandre Yersin (1863–1943), who founded Nha Trang’s Pasteur
Institute in 1895.
Yersin’s accomplishments were many, including introducing rubber and
quinine-producing trees to Vietnam and discovering the rat-borne microbe that
causes bubonic plague. He’s deeply respected in Vietnam, with streets named
after him, and was posthumously made an honorary citizen for his pioneering
scientific work fighting diseases. You can browse Yersin’s library and view
displays including laboratory equipment (such as astronomical instruments) and
a fascinating 3D photo viewer. The building also houses the Pasteur Institute
which coordinates vaccination and hygiene programs for the country’s southern
coastal region. Physicians at the clinic here offer medical advice to around 70
patients a day. There’s information in French, Vietnamese and English, plus a
short film on Yersin’s life.
WHERE TO STAY: HOTELS & HOSTELS IN NHA TRANG
Champa Island Resort
Situated on two islands in the Cai River with excellent facilities including a huge pool, gym and
spa. $$$
Happy Angel Hotel
In the heart of town and a short walk from the beach, with wide choice of rooms and helpful
staff. $$
Backpack Abode Hostel
Enjoys a convenient location close to the beach and there’s a convivial vibe helped by free
breakfasts (and beer!). $
Mud Play
THERMAL EXPERIENCES
Locals swear that the only way to get really clean is to get deep down and dirty
in a natural mudbath, and there are several places around Nha Trang where you
can get stuck in (the mud). Try to avoid weekends, which can get very busy
indeed.
I Resort, 7km northwest of the city centre, is an upmarket thermal spa that’s
the most attractive of the mud-fests around Nha Trang, with hot mineral
mudbaths, bathing pools and even nine mineral waterfalls. The rural setting is
gorgeous, with distant mountain views, and there’s a decent restaurant, spa and
massage salon and gift shop. All kinds of mud and spa packages are available.
The original hot thermal mud centre, Thap Ba Hot Spring Center, remains good
value. Private rooms work out to be pricey so consider the communal mudbath;
there are also mineral-water swimming pools. Lots of other packages are
offered and online discounts available. It’s 7km northwest of Nha Trang.
HON CHONG PROMONTORY
The narrow granite promontory of Hon Chong, 4km north of Central Nha Trang, offers fine
views of the mountainous coastline north of Nha Trang and nearby islands. There’s a
modest observatory here too, but it’s mainly geared to school visits (opening hours are
sporadic).
You’ll also find a reconstructed Ruong house (wooden residence handmade in the
traditional style of the region) and a great cafe with sea views. Watch out for local kids
doing Acapulco-style swan dives from the coastal cliffs. Just north of the promontory is a
slim beach, but expect some rubbish.
Nha Trang Cathedral
FRENCH GOTHIC STYLE
Built between 1928 and 1933 in French Gothic style, complete with stainedglass
windows, Nha Trang Cathedral stands on a small hill overlooking the train
station. It’s a surprisingly elegant building given that it was constructed of
simple cement blocks. Some particularly colourful Vietnamese touches include
the red neon outlining the crucifix, the pink backlighting on the tabernacle, and
the blue neon arch and white neon halo over the statue of St Mary.
GETTING AROUND
Central Nha Trang is best explored on foot, though be careful crossing the busy beach
road. Taxis are very reasonable in Nha Trang; a ride from the town centre to the Po Nagar
Cham Towers will cost around 30,000d. It’s a flat city, so cycling is another excellent
option; bikes are widely available for hire.
Beyond Nha Trang
Take some time out and explore the Nha Trang bay, coastline, distant
Cham ruins and cultural centre.
Nha Trang’s coastal location, offshore islands and tropical climate makes it a
good base for boat trips and water sports of many persuasions. Diving has
historically been a big draw, but reef management issues have seen access to
some top dive sites suspended. Boat trips on the bay are very popular, and
cruising the islands can be a memorable day out if you book the right trip.
South of town, along the superb Bai Dai beach, are surf spots and barefoot
cafes where you can escape the city. Further away, consider an outing to see the
Cham towers of Po Klong and My Hoa beach, the latter all but undeveloped
except for a few kitesurfing camps.
Surfing, Bai Dai beach | shevtsovy/shutterstock ©
TOP TIP
There’s likely to be little in the way of diving, snorkelling or even sailing action during the height
of rainy season (October to January). If you really want to dive here it’s best to plan around
these months.
BEST HOTELS BEYOND NHA TRANG
Mia Resort Nha Trang
On a secluded, private sandy beach 16km south of Nha Trang with a choice of spacious
villas either with ocean or garden views. $$$
Fusion Resort Nha Trang
Set on Bai Dai beach, this luxury complex’s suites and villas all have sea views, and many
have private plunge pools. $$$
West Lake Hotel
Close to the northern end of Bai Dai beach, with affordable rooms that represent excellent
value. $
Ana Mandara Cam Ranh
The beachside location, contemporary decor and wonderful pool make it a fine choice.
$$$
Bai Dai Beach
SOUTH ALONG SURF BEACH (3PP)
South of Nha Trang, a spectacular coastal road leads to Cam Ranh Bay passing
the entire length of Bai Dai (Long Beach), a breathtaking stretch of sand. It’s
22km to the northern end of the beach, 30 minutes by road.
Until recently the Vietnamese military controlled the entire area, restricting
access to all but the odd fishing boat. However, times have changed and now
the entire strip is being developed. Several giant resort hotels have already
opened and many others are under construction.
Some of the best surf breaks in Vietnam are on Bai Dai. Your best bet is to
head to the northern end of the coastline, where you’ll find Bai Dai Surf Camp
& Chill, which rents boards and offers surf instruction, and Sandy Shores, a
bar and grill, plus a good choice of seafood restaurants. If conditions are calm,
this northern section of the beach is your best bet for swimming.
Coastal road near Nha Trang | nguyen quang ngoc tonkin/shutterstock ©
WHERE TO STAY: HOTELS IN DOC LET
Light Hotel
Around 400m inland from the beach, this hotel has clean, inviting rooms with efficient air-con
and friendly staff. $
Hoang Khang Hotel
Four-storey hotel with well-presented, good-value rooms. There’s a restaurant and it’s near the
beach. $
Serene Days Doclet Resort
New beachside hotel located towards the northern end of Doc Let beach with a delightful
infinity pool. $$$
Island Trips
OFFSHORE EXCURSIONS
Island-hopping trips are a huge draw in Nha Trang, with 71 islets offshore,
some surrounded by coral reefs.
Back in the day (well the 1990s), party-boat tours involved a ride out to sea
on a leaky fishing boat, copious joints and rice-wine shots in a ‘floating bar’ (a
tube in the ocean). Unsurprisingly, local party officials deemed the ganja and
drinking games a bit too counter-revolutionary for their tastes.
Today there’s more of a choice – with everything from backpacker booze
cruises to family-geared outings. Frankly, most trips are extremely touristy,
involving whistle-stop visits to the run-down Tri Nguyen Aquarium, some
snorkelling on a degraded reef, and a bit of beach time (admission fee charged).
The booze cruises feature (very) organised entertainment with a cheesy DJ on
the deck (or a tacky boy band) and lots of drinking games. Expect 20 or 30
people packed on a small boat.
In recent years upmarket options have increased, with everything from
private charters to cruises on traditional junks now available. If you have the
funds, these are your best bet for a relaxing, enjoyable day out in the bay.
KITESURFING IN MY HOA
Around 100km south of Nha Trang by road, the beachside village of My Hoa is fast
becoming a kitesurfing hot spot. Between November and March you can expect sunny
skies and onshore trade winds of between 20 and 30 knots.
Three kite camps have opened with no doubt more to follow, though the scene is still
mellow and emerging. So, if you’d rather chill under the stars on a relatively undeveloped
shoreline than base yourself in a large tourist resort like Mui Ne, head to My Hoa. There’s
no public transport here; a taxi from Phan Rang town costs 275,000d and takes 40
minutes or so.
Diving the Bay
UNDERWATER ACTION
Nha Trang is Vietnam’s most popular diving destination, though conditions are
not that rewarding for experienced divers, with visibility averaging 10m to 15m.
February to September is considered the best time to dive, while October to
December is the worst time of year.
There are around 25 dive sites in the area. Unfortunately the best location,
Hon Mun island, was closed to diving in June 2022 after reefs there were
found to be severely degraded. The decision upset local dive operators, who
pointed out they have a vested interest in protecting the marine environment.
Previous studies had found that heavy storms, climate change, industrial waste
and particularly illegal fishing and dredging were all factors leading to the
damage.
Other sites remain open with a variety of soft and hard corals, and a
reasonable number of small reef fish. You can expect to see clownfish,
pufferfish and trumpetfish, and perhaps cuttlefish and octopus.
A full-day outing including boat transport, two dives and lunch typically
costs between US$60 and US$90 with a professional dive school. Snorkellers
can usually tag along for US$20.
There are over a dozen dive operators in Nha Trang, including the odd dodgy
set-up not following responsible diving practices. The latter tend to charge
ridiculously cheap prices. Don’t compromise on safety, and stick to reputable
operators.
WHERE TO STAY: HOTELS IN NINH VAN BAY
Six Senses Ninh Van Bay
Magical setting on a secluded cove and elegant traditionally-inspired villas, each with its own
swimming pool. $$$
L’Alyana Villas Ninh Van Bay
The thatched villas here have private plunge pools, personal butlers, complimentary yoga,
kayaking and hiking. $$$
An Lam Retreat
This tropical escape, accessed by boat, tempts visitors with its back-to-nature ethos. Villas are
beautifully presented. $$$
DOC LET BEACH
Stretching for 18km, the chalk-white sands and shallow turquoise waters of Doc Let
ensure it ranks among Vietnam’s best beaches. However, in the last few years developers
have moved in big time, and busloads of tourists are herded here on tours from Nha Trang.
This giant bay can be divided into three sections. The northern part is where most of the
tourism action is, with a cluster of beachfront hotels and cheaper guesthouses inland.
Looming over the central section is the giant Hyundai shipyard and port, an important
local employer but a real blight on the landscape.
The southern part has the best stretch of sand, but due to developers and day-trippers
(and jet skis) it’s now far from tranquil.
Po Klong Cham Towers
HILLSIDE HINDU TEMPLES
South of Nha Trang (93km or 1½ hours by car). the imposing Cham towers of
Po Klong date from the end of the 13th century. Built from brick as Hindu
temples, they stand on a platform at the top of Cho’k Hala, an exposed granite
hill.
Over the entrance to the largest tower (the kalan, or sanctuary) is a beautiful
carving of a dancing Hindu god Shiva with six arms. Note the inscriptions in
the ancient Cham language on the doorposts. These tell of past restoration
efforts and offerings of sacrifices and slaves.
Inside the kalan’s vestibule is a statue of the bull Nandin, vehicle of Shiva.
Nandin is also a symbol of the agricultural productivity of the countryside. To
ensure a good crop, farmers would place an offering of fresh greens, herbs and
areca nuts in front of Nandin’s muzzle. Under the main tower is a mukha-linga
sitting under a wooden pyramid. Liquor is offered and incense burned here.
Inside the smaller tower opposite the entrance to the sanctuary you can get a
good look at some of the Cham’s sophisticated building technology; the wooden
columns that support the lightweight roof are visible. The structure attached to
it was originally the main entrance to the complex.
Next to the temples is a large modern Cham Cultural Centre. There’s some
superb photography of Cham people, village life and customs exhibited here, as
well as paintings, pottery, traditional dress and agricultural tools.
GETTING AROUND
Regular buses and trains connect Nha Trang with the Phan Rang area (the latter’s train
station is called Thap Cham). To really explore the region, though, it’s best to have your
own wheels. Scooters are available in Nha Trang from US$5 a day or a car with driver costs
from US$80 per day.
MUI NE
One of Vietnam’s most relaxing beach destinations, Mui Ne is an attractive
10km string of beach resorts, which have fused into one long coastal strip.
These resorts are, for the most part, mercifully low-rise and set amid tropical
gardens by the sea. The original fishing village is still here, but tourists
outnumber locals these days. There are a handful of luxury hotels (and a
smattering of cheap guesthouses) but Mui Ne is mainly a midrange resort.
Kitesurfing is a huge draw – there are several excellent schools and worldclass
wind conditions between late October and April. One major problem the
area faces is the steady creep of coastal erosion, particularly around Km 12. Just
inland from the coast the terrain is desert dry, and touring Mui Ne’s towering
sand dunes is thrilling experience. Until a few years ago Mui Ne was a prime
location for Russian tourists, but today’s it’s mainly West Europeans and
Vietnamese visitors filling hotel beds.
SIGHTS
1 Fairy Spring
2 Fishing Village Museum
3 Sand Dunes
ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS
4 Manta Sail Training Centre
EATING
5 Choi Oi
6 Dong Vui Food Court
7 Po Shanu Cham Towers
8 Sailing Club Kite School
9 Sandals
TOP TIP
Most hotels and restaurants are spread out along a 10km stretch of coastal highway. East of
Km 12, many seaside hotels do not have a beach. For the best swimming head to the stretch
around Km 8.
CHAM RUINS
Around 6km west of Mui Ne, the Po Shanu Cham Towers occupy a hillside with sweeping
views of nearby Phan Thiet and a cemetery filled with candy-like tombstones. Dating from
the 9th century, this complex consists of the ruins of three towers dedicated to Shiva,
which were restored in 2019, using the original bricks where possible. There are
information panels detailing the towers’ history and a small pagoda on site too.
Hit the Water
KITESURFING, WINDSURFING AND MORE (3PP)
For kitesurfers and windsurfers, the strongest gales blow from late October to
late April, when swells can stir things up big time. Consider investing in a short
kitesurfing lesson before opting for a multi-day course, as it’s a tricky skill to
master. Bear in mind it is an extreme sport and most places won’t offer a refund
for anyone who drops out. Mui Ne also has an excellent sailing school and
plenty of places rent out SUPs and kayaks. There’s also some surf between
August to December. Good operators include Sailing Club Kite School and
Manta Sail Training Centre.
Sand dunes, Mui Ne | det-anan/shutterstock ©
WHERE TO EAT IN MUI NE
Dong Vui Food Court
Open-air dining with excellent grazing options (from Indian to German) and live music some
weekends. $
Sandals
A romantic setting for a memorable meal, with a mellow ambience and Vietnamese and
Western dishes. $$
Choi Oi
Modern Viet restaurant run by welcoming staff who will guide you through the tempting menu;
offers cooking classes too. $
The Sahara of Vietnam
EXPLORING THE SANDS
Mui Ne is famous for its enormous red and white sand dunes. The doi hong
(‘red dunes’) are conveniently located north of the main strip, but the doi cat
trang (‘white dunes’), 24km northeast, are the more impressive – the nearconstant
oceanic winds sculpt the pale-yellow sands into wonderful
Saharaesque formations.
On regular organised dune trips there’s a slim chance of experiencing the
silence of the desert. Prepare yourself for the hard sell as children press you to
hire a plastic sledge to ride the dunes. Unless you’re very light, it can be tricky
to travel for more than a few metres this way. Quad bikes and dune buggies can
also be a bother. Expect some litter, too; periodically there’s a clean-up, but the
tide of plastic keeps returning.
If you’re booking a sand dune tour agree on an itinerary, preferably in
writing. We hear some complaints, particularly about ‘sunset tours’ that are cut
short with the sun still high in the sky.
FAIRY SPRING
For easy access to the Mui Ne dunes, consider visiting the Suoi Tien, a ‘fairy stream’ which
flows through a valley in the red dunes and past some interesting sand and rock
formations. It’s a pleasant walk wading from the sea up the creek to its source, a spring.
You can do the trek barefoot, but if you’re heading out into the big sand dunes after, you’ll
need proper footwear. Expect some rubbish and souvenir stands along the way.
A Fishy Business
EXPLAINING FISH SAUCE PRODUCTION
It accompanies virtually every meal in Vietnam, a nation which consumes an
estimated 250 million litres of nuoc mam (fish sauce) a year. When added to
dishes during cooking it adds a unique complexity and umami flavour. When
fish sauce is mixed with garlic, lime juice, chilli and sugar it becomes nuoc
cham, an essential dipping sauce that’s presented on dining tables in a little
bowl.
Phan Thiet is one of the principal fish sauce production centres in Vietnam (a
ranking only challenged by the island of Phu Quoc). Factories and home-brew
operations are scattered across the city and region, and its distinctive aroma is
ever present.
Making fish sauce is a fairly simple operation: there are only two ingredients.
Rinsed fresh fish (usually anchovies) and salt are layered into earthenware pots
or wooden barrels lined with sea salt then placed in the hot southern Vietnamese
sun for anything between six months and a year to ferment.
There are myriad degrees of fish sauce quality. Most prized is the richly
pungent, cognac-coloured first extraction, or nuoc mam nhi (perhaps
comparable to cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil). Subsequent extractions lack
intensity and are more watery. One quality test measures the fish sauce’s protein
content. If you drop a grain or two of rice into a bowl of fish sauce and it sinks,
the fish protein level is low and it’ll be a secondary extraction.
Variations include nuoc mam made from freshwater fish; cooked fish sauce;
fish sauce in the form of paste; and occasionally sauces made from shrimp, crab
or squid.
Between Mui Ne and Phan Thiet, the excellent Fishing Village Museum
explains all about this most Vietnamese of staples, its roots and production in
the region. There are 14 interactive exhibits depicting a 300-year history, local
maritime culture and the importance of fishing to the economy. Tastings are
offered and there are bottles for sale.
In the evenings the museum hosts ‘Fishermen’ shows, theatrical
performances that illustrate fishing traditions and culture in Phan Thiet with
contemporary dance.
WHERE TO STAY IN MUI NE
Sailing Club
Stylish, spacious bungalows in wonderful tropical gardens, set right on Mui Ne’s best stretch of
sandy beach. $$$
Minhon Hotel
Run by a very friendly young team, this fine choice has rooms set around a pool and is solar
powered. $
Cargo Remote
Hillside eco-retreat with a stunning natural pool and gorgeous accommodation made from
shipping containers. $$
Beyond Mui Ne
Mui Ne is a beach holiday location. If you want to experience a more
local vibe head to Phan Thiet and the coastline beyond.
The arid, scenic region around Mui Ne is a pleasure to explore. You should
definitely drop by the bustling port city of Phan Thiet, traditionally known for
its nuoc mam (fish sauce), producing millions of litres of the stuff per annum.
The riverside fishing harbour is always chock-a-block with brightly painted
boats and there are a couple of sights and a lot of seafood restaurants to
investigate.
Beyond Phan Thiet, there’s a good road trip south along the highly scenic
coastal road to Long Hai, passing the Ke Ga lighthouse. Ta Cu Mountain is
another good diversion.
Phan Thiet | neale cousland/shutterstock ©
TOP TIP
For a great day trip from Mui Ne get some wheels and head south along the coastal road to
Phan Thiet (and beyond). The weather is perennially oven hot in these parts so pack suncream
and take plenty of water.

PHAN THIET ON FOOT
Phan Thiet is one of southern Vietnam’s main ports, with fishing fleet that numbers hundreds
and an annual catch in excess of 50,000 tons. Begin an exploration on the Ca Ty riverbank at
the 1 Ho Chi Minh Museum, dedicated to the founder of the modern Vietnamese nation. Ho
spent a year in Phan Thiet in 1910 at the neighbouring 2 Duc Thanh School, which is open
to visitors, you can see its austere classrooms and well-maintained gardens.
Head inland along Ð Tran Phu to the 3 Phan Thiet Central Market where there are
glistening displays of seafood and fish to admire, much of it taken from oceanic waters far
offshore. There are food stalls here for snacks and meals, fruit merchants (try the famous
locally produced dragon fruit) and florists. Heading back to the river down Ð Nguyen Hue
and you’ll see a historic 4 water tower on the opposite bank; loosely reminiscent of a
pagoda, this 1934 monument is a symbol of the city.
Continuing along the west bank of the Ca Ty, cross 5 Tran Hung Dao bridge and there’s a
great perspective over the river, its waters filled with hundreds of fishing boats. Phan Thiet’s
nuoc mam (fish sauce) is famed throughout the nation for its rich flavour. Riverside 6 Ð
Pham Van Dong is thick with seafood restaurants, the perfect setting for a meal. Back in the
1970s and 1980s thousands of migrants left Vietnam from here on small vessels, dreaming of
a new start in Singapore, the US or Europe.
At the southern end of Ð Pham Van Dong you can gaze out past the mouth of the river to
the sea. Walk northeast along Ð Le Loi and it’s a short distance to Phan Thiet’s impressive 7
beach, with a sweeping arc of fine pale sand.
DRAGON FRUIT
Arrive at night in the Mui Ne district and you’ll be greeted with the eerie sight of fields filled
with lanterns, each light illuminating a bizarre-looking tropical bush. These lights maintain
heat around dragon fruit (also known as pitaya), which are native to Latin America but
thrive in the arid conditions and sandy soil along this stretch of Vietnam’s coastline.
The dragon fruit is lauded as a ‘superfood’ by some nutritionists for its high level of
vitamin C content, digestive properties and natural antioxidants. In Mui Ne you’ll find
dragon-fruit-flavoured cocktails and mocktails.
Dragon fruit plants only bloom at night and the flower (of white petals around a golden
centre) only lasts for one day. Vietnam is the world’s leading exporter of the fruit, with
revenues topping US$1 billion annually.
Coastal Road Tripping
SAND DUNES AND FISHING VILLAGES
A beautiful road parallels the coast between Phan Thiet and La Gi, passing
some memorable scenery and the impressive Ke Ga lighthouse. There are
pockets of tourism development, but for now most of the coastline is a
beguiling mix of giant sand dunes, fishing villages, wide ocean views and some
near-deserted beaches. Traffic is light.
Immediately south of Phan Thiet, the first section of the road is beautiful,
with a casuarina-lined shoreline and the ocean to the east, while the inland
scenery is dominated by rust-red sand dunes. After 30km or so you reach the
majestic Ke Ga lighthouse, which clings to a tiny island offshore, dating from
the French era. Constructed in 1899, it sits on a rocky islet some 300m from the
shore, towering almost 40m above the ocean. It’s just possible to swim (or even
wade) across if the tide is very low, but most visitors hire a boat operator (from
100,000d return) to get across. You’re not allowed to ascend the lighthouse.
South of Ke Ga, the coastal road pushes southwest, passing fields bursting
with dragon fruit (the main crop here), reaching La Gi, 22km down the road, an
isolated market town.
Ke Ga lighthouse | dzung vu/shutterstock ©
WHERE TO STAY AROUND PHAN THIET
Pho Bien Homestay
In the heart of Phan Thiet with very cheap, simple rooms; there’s also a tiny pool for cooling off.
$
Chunlii Homestay
Right opposite Ke Ga lighthouse, with clean, affordable rooms and stunning sea vistas. Limited
English is spoken. $
Chon’s Dock
On the outskirts of Phan Thiet opposite a small fishing harbour, offering clean rooms and a
welcoming vibe. $
WHALE WORSHIP
Vietnam’s whale-worship cult is thought to have originated in early Cham times. Fishing
communities in southern Vietnam revere whales as near-divine beings who offer
protection against storms, and there are whale temples dotted along the coast. Phan
Thiet’s Van Thuy Tu Temple is particularly fascinating to visit as it contains the skeleton
of a 19m whale. The temple is said to date back to 1762 and also contains other cultural
relics.
The Holy Mountain
A VERY BIG BUDDHA
The highlight at Ta Cu Mountain is the huge white reclining Buddha, Tuong
Phat Nam. At 49m long, it’s the largest in Vietnam. The pagoda was
constructed in 1861, but the Buddha was only added in 1972. It has become an
important pilgrimage centre.
The mountain is just off Hwy 1, 31km southwest of Phan Thiet, or 48km
from Mui Ne. From the highway it’s a beautiful two-hour trek, or a 10-minute
cable-car ride and a short but steep hike. You’ll pass three large standing
Buddha statues on your way to the summit and see monkeys in the forest
around the site. The cable car is relatively modern and Austrian-made.
GETTING AROUND
Local buses connect Phan Thiet with Mui Ne. There’s limited public transport elsewhere so
a motorbike or car is the way to go. Factor on from US$90 per day for a car and driver.
VUNG TAU
Occupying a hilly thumb-shaped peninsula, with the ocean on two sides and a
coastal lagoon to the north, the city of Vung Tau enjoys a spectacular location.
It’s an easy day trip from HCMC, and the sea air, beaches and vistas make it a
very poplar weekend destination for the Saigonese.
The city has a few attractions, including museums, imposing colonial-era
buildings and war monuments, and its layout, with broad boulevards and coastal
roads is attractive. If the weather gods are smiling, some residents surf and
kitesurf off the city’s beaches. Few travellers pass through but it makes a good
place to start (or end) an intriguing coastal road trip to Mui Ne.
Many Western visitors are ex-servicemen from Australia (and New Zealand)
as there was an important ANZAC base here in the 1960s and 1970s.
HIGHLIGHTS
1 Robert Taylor Museum of Worldwide Arms
SIGHTS
2 Statue of Christ the King
3 Lighthouse
4 Provincial Museum
5 White Villa
EATING
6 Quach’s Seafood Restaurant
7 Seafood Market
TOP TIP
If you’re looking for a seafood feast, there are some fine options on the coastline northwest of
the centre of town. Dining out costs more here than in many other Vietnamese cities. To cut
costs, head for the seafood market.
NAME CALLING
There’s been an established expat community in Vung Tau for many years and some local
landmarks have English nicknames. Most foreigners prefer to stay on Front Beach (Bai
Truoc) where many restaurants and bars are found, while the majority of Vietnamese
visitors head for Back Beach (Bai Sau). The latter is better for swimming and
watersports.
Museums & More
CONTEXT AND CULTURE
Vung Tau has three museums worth investigating. The Robert Taylor Museum
of Worldwide Arms (pictured) is one of the best private collections of military
arms, uniforms and paraphernalia in Asia. One section is dedicated to the
conflict in Vietnam, another to the French colonial period, and there are
Chinese, European and even Zulu exhibits.
Robert Taylor, who has spent more than 50 years amassing and curating the
collection, is often at hand to provide explanations. The attention to detail is
superb and there are excellent descriptions in English and Vietnamese.
The excellent Provincial Museum opened in 2021 in a striking new fourstorey
structure on the seafront. All exhibits are well presented, covering the
region’s history, environment, minority communities and cultural traditions.
Extensive coverage is given to the military struggle against the French and
Americans, including the prisons of Con Dao and lots of original weaponry.
Cultural context is informative, with displays on the province’s religious
traditions, art and architecture, and cuisine. Next door, the city’s third museum
Bach Dinh (the White Villa) is the former weekend retreat of French governor
Paul Doumer (later a French president). This gorgeous, grand colonial-era
residence has extensive gardens bursting with frangipani but the interior is
oddly empty (besides the odd piece of furniture and some Ming pottery
retrieved from shipwrecks off the coast).
dong nhat huy/shutterstock ©
WHERE TO STAY IN VUNG TAU
Sakura Hotel
Inviting rooms and apartments and switched-on owners who rent scooters and bikes. Superb
value. $
Shin & Sam
Rooms are well kept, there’s a great breakfast and the rooftop pool is a heat-busting bonus. $
Vung Tau Riva Hotel
Modern mini-hotel with a prime location on Back Beach. Many rooms have terrific sea views
from their balconies. $$
BEST SEAFOOD
Ganh Hao
One of the best seafood restaurants in southern Vietnam, with tables by the sea; try the
crab with pepper sauce. $$$
Seafood Market
Here you select your fish, crab or shellfish and have it cooked in front of you. Located on
Back Beach. $
Thanh Phat 2
No-frills seafront place where shrimp, sea bass, crab and clams are expertly cooked. It’s
4km north of central Vung Tau. $$
Quach’s Seafood Restaurant
Bustling place off Front Beach serving surf-fresh seafood including superb crab in
tamarind sauce and tiger prawn dishes. $$$
Visions of Rio
STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN
Vung Tau’s southern headland juts into the ocean and boasts far-reaching vistas
over wetlands to the west and across the city. Crowning a hilltop here, with his
arms outstretched to embrace the South China Sea (East Sea), is the statue of
Christ the King, a 32m giant Jesus and one of the biggest in the world – taller
than his illustrious Brazilian cousin. It’s possible to ascend the arms for
panoramic views. Some 800-odd stairs wind their way up the mountain, a
Vietnamese version of stairway to heaven, but it is possible to take a short cut
by motorbike up a bumpy mountain road if you can find a local who knows the
way. Note you cannot enter the actual statue wearing sleeveless shirts or shorts.
To the north of the statue is a historic lighthouse, built by the French and
dating back to 1910. This lighthouse also boasts spectacular vistas of Vung Tau.
Although Jesus and the lighthouse look temptingly close, it is not possible to
walk or drive directly between them; there is a military base in the hills. To
access the lighthouse head to Cau Da Pier on Ð Ha Long, take a sharp right on
the alley north of the Hai Au Hotel, then roll on up the hill.
Statue of Christ the King | dong nhat huy/shutterstock ©
GETTING AROUND
There are regular buses from HCMC’s Mien Tay and Mien Dong bus stations but the best
way to access Vung Tau is by boat. Fast ferries operated by Greenlines sail to/from the
riverside in central HCMC four to six times daily, though services can be cancelled if seas
are rough; it’s a two-hour trip.
Vung Tau is pretty spread out so consider hiring a taxi to get between the Front and
Back beaches or to more distant sights. Some hotels have bicycles available guests too.
Beyond Vung Tau
Vung Tau makes a starting point for the highly scenic coastal drive to Ho
Tram and a good base for investigating wartime sites.
A stunning coastline stretches northeast of Vung Tau, eventually reaching Phan
Thiet some 175km away. Until a few years ago this route consisted of a
seemingly endless stretch of empty sandy beaches and the odd fishing village
but resort hotels are now emerging (geared to Saigonese holidaymakers) and
some campsites have been established (catering mainly to Saigonese students).
The one modern monument you’ll pass en route is the mega casino project at
Ho Tram.
Elsewhere there are a number of war monuments and battle sites from the
American War, which are best visited on tours lead from Vung Tau as they are
widely dispersed and tricky to reach under your own steam.
Drying fish, Long Hai | quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock ©
TOP TIP
Tommy’s in Vung Tau operates good tours of the key sites geared for returning vets. Otherwise,
taxi drivers charge around US$75 for a full-day out.
FRENCH FIELD GUNS
These six massive cannons, all with support trenches, demonstrate how strategically
important Cap St Jacques (the colonial name for Vung Tau) was to the French authorities,
as it guarded access to Saigon. To reach the cannons, take Ð Tran Phu beyond Mulberry
Beach and look for Hem 444 in the fishing village, about 6km from Vung Tau. Turn right up
a narrow, rough track manageable by motorbike or on foot.
Lonely Beaches
MEGACASINO AND NEAR-EMPTY SANDS (2PP)
Immediately east of Vung Tau, Long Hai is a bustling seaside resort with sandy
beaches that draw local holidaymakers and a busy fishing port. Bao Dai, the last
emperor of Vietnam, built a private residence here (now the Fleur de Lys Resort
& Spa) but otherwise there are no real sights.
Pushing on northeast up the coastline, the route passes fine beaches and a
long sandbar. Developers have targeted the next stretch of coastline, where a
tasteful enclave called the Hamptons has good dining options and a pier. Next
up is the Ho Tram casino, a vast monument to excess and chance (Vietnamese
are not permitted to gamble here, but they’ll happily take foreigners’ cash).
Casino aside, Ho Tram is pretty low key – until very recently it consisted of
nothing more than a tiny fishing village, scruffy open-air market and a fine
though rubbish-strewn beach. The seafood shacks here are some of the best in
southern Vietnam, offering fresh scallops, blue-swimmer crab and jumbo red
prawns.
Beyond here the next part of the coast is almost untouched, and with golden
sands, rolling inland dunes and clear waters; there are many tempting places to
stop for a dip. New campsites are opening on this stretch, mostly geared to
students from Saigon, with tents set on sand dunes and in coastal woods for
rent. These places tend to be deserted in the week, but fill up on weekends and
public holidays.
Ho Tram, Vung Tau | quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock ©
WHERE TO STAY IN HO TRAM
Grand Ho Tram
The twin hotels at this casino complex have superb facilities with five pools and a stunning
beach location. $$$
Sanctuary
Gorgeous contemporary villas, each with private pool, just off a broad sandy beach. $$$
Beach House
Simple rooms and bungalows in a tranquil location on a sandy spit of land between a riverbank
and the beach. $
BEST RESTAURANTS AROUND HO TRAM
My Le 2
Just inland from Ho Tram beach, My Le 2 serves super-fresh seafood at moderate rates in
very simple surrounds. $$
Hampton’s Pier
A tremendous choice of dining options, from Viet classics to gourmet ice cream. $$
Lob Ho Tram Restaurant
Upmarket seafood restaurant with a superb range of dishes including delicious chilli crab.
$$$
Ven Ven Hotel Restaurant
An atmospheric setting for well-seasoned and presented Vietnamese classics, including
fish cooked in a claypot. $$
Anzac Sites
TUNNELS, BATTLES AND CAVES
The Long Tan Memorial Cross commemorates a particularly fierce battle that
took place on 18 August 1966 between Australian troops and Viet Cong (VC)
fighters. Originally erected by Australian survivors of the battle, the current
cross is a replica installed by the Vietnamese in 2002. It’s located about 18km
from Ba Ria town or 55km from Vung Tau, near the town of Nui Dat. Permits
to visit the Long Tan Cross are no longer necessary, and trips can be combined
with the seldom-visited Long Phuoc tunnels, an underground network that is a
much smaller version of the more famous tunnels at Cu Chi.
At Minh Dam, 24km from Vung Tau, there are caves with historical
connections to the Franco–Viet Minh and American Wars. Although the caves
are little more than spaces between the boulders covering the cliff face, VC
soldiers bunked here off and on between 1948 and 1975; you can still see bullet
holes in the rocks from the skirmishes that took place. Steps hewn into the rock
face lead up to the caves, with spectacular views over the coastal plains at the
top. Nearby there is a mountaintop temple with more great panoramic views
of the coastline.
GETTING AROUND
There’s irregular public transport on this coastline; slow local buses trundle between Vung
Tau and Ba Ria. However, it’s perfect terrain for exploring on two wheels; scooters are
available from hotels and guesthouses.
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
ALPINE TOWNS AND SYLVAN HILLS
The Central Highlands and Cat Tien National Park blend wildlife,
waterfalls and villages with the laidback charm of the region’s distinct
cities.
hien ohung thu/shutterstock ©
Few parts of Vietnam stir the imagination with the lure of adventure quite like
the Central Highlands. The ribbon-like Ho Chi Minh Hwy winds its way past
coffee plantations, pine-studded mountains, craggy waterfalls, enormous reedcovered
lakes and the commanding nha rong (communal houses) of traditional
ethnic minority villages. Protected jungles in remoter corners, including those
of Yok Don and the Cat Tien National Park (the latter is just south of the
Central Highlands) host singing gibbons, pygmy lorises, wild elephants and a
kaleidoscope of birds. The cities and towns in the Central Highlands offer a
diverse mix of temperatures and temperaments. The former French hill station
of Dalat (pictured) beguiles with its cool climate, heritage architecture, the
palaces of the last emperor of Vietnam and hip bars for after-dark thrills. Just
outside of this tropical alpine town, active travellers take to the mountains,
forests, waterfalls and rivers in cycling, hiking and abseiling adventures.
Buon Ma Thuot (BMT) and Kon Tum sit at lower altitudes and thus endure
hotter climates. BMT is Vietnam’s undisputed coffee capital, evidenced not
only by the huge expanse of plantations, but alwalso a plucky museum and a
coalition of cool cafes.
Kon Tum has managed to preserve some unusual and impressive
ecclesiastical colonial heritage, while a handful of traditional minority villages
are within easy transport reach of the city centre.
Long Lan Pass, Lam Dong province | hien phung thu/shutterstock ©
THE MAIN AREAS
CAT TIEN NATIONAL PARK
Thick jungle and singing gibbons.
DALAT
Urban romance and alpine adventure.
BUON MA THUOT
Elephants, waterfalls, lakes and coffee.
KON TUM
Christian heritage and ethnic minority villages.
Find Your Way
Sandwiched between Cambodia and the Southcentral Coast, the
Central Highlands is one of Vietnam’s only regions without a beach. The
Ho Chi Minh Hwy winds through this hilly, agricultural region, passing all
major cities (bar Dalat).
Plan Your Days
Experiences in the Central Highlands oscillate from leisurely pastimes to
thrilling adventures. The region’s cities are very different from one
another, so make the most of it by selecting those that suit your
interests.
Lam Vien Square, Dalat | dong nhat huy/shutterstock ©
If You Only Visit One Place

• Dalat has more than enough for a fun-filled couple of days. Spend day one getting to
  grips with the city: stroll along the lake; hunt out architectural eccentricities; tuck into
  street food and refuel regularly in coffee shops like Café Tung and La Viet.
• On day two leave the city and unearth the countryside. Adventure junkies can strap on a
  harness for canyoning (abseiling down waterfalls). For a taste of the bizarre, take the train
  to Linh Phuoc Pagoda.
  With More Time, Go Wildlife Spotting
• While Vietnam is not generally known for its wildlife, the Central Highlands and Cat Tien
  National Park entertain some excellent safari experiences. With more time on your
  hands, spend two or three days in Cat Tien and encounter dozens of primates, birds and
  reptiles. You may also uncover evidence of leopards and elephants.
• For more concrete opportunities to see Asia’s largest mammal, take an additional
  couple of days and head to Yok Don National Park for their ethical elephant experience.
  You might also stop at Lak Lake along the way..
  Even More Time? Visit Parts Unknown
• The northern half of the Central Highlands sees few visitors. Amiable Buon Ma Thuot is
  the headquarters of Vietnam’s thriving coffee industry, with an excellent museum and a
  lively Coffee Festival. It also sits surrounded by waterfalls and Ede ethnic minority
  villages.
• Modest and unassuming Kon Tum is a charming place to spend a day or two, with a
  somewhat unexpected pair of picturesque heritage properties. Nearby are the aweinspiring
  nha rong (communal houses) of Bahnar ethnic minority villages and the
  elaborate cemeteries of the Jarai.
  Seasonal Highlights
  With little rain and cool temperatures, November to February is the
  best time to visit, although Dalat gets chilly in winter.
  JANUARY
  Huge numbers of tourists flock to Dalat during Lunar New Year
  (January or February). Go somewhere quiet like Kon Tum instead.
  nguyen quang ngoc tonkin/shutterstock ©
  MARCH
  For the biennial Buon Ma Thuot Coffee Festival, which includes a
  raucous street carnival celebrating local minority cultures.
  nguyenquocthang/shutterstock ©
  MAY
  Much of southern Vietnam is roasting in May and thus Dalat will offer
  some respite, though it can be wet.
  michel nguyen/shutterstock ©
  OCTOBER
  Warm weather and gushing waterfalls are guaranteed, so you can get
  the most out of canyoning in Dalat.
  elena odareeva/shuterstock ©
  NOVEMBER
  The end of rainy season should see high water levels and calming
  vistas across Lak Lake.
  nguyen luong anh ngoc/shutterstock ©
  DECEMBER
  The best month to avoid scorching heat, flooding, landslides and
  leeches in Cat Tien National Park.
  midori photography/shutterstock ©
  CAT TIEN NATIONAL PARK
  Wonderful Cat Tien National Park comprises an uncommonly biodiverse area of
  lowland tropical rainforest. The 720-sq-km park is one of Vietnam’s outstanding
  natural treasures – a true jungle – and the hiking and bird-watching are the best
  in the south of the country. Try to avoid weekends and public holidays when the
  park gets very busy with domestic tourists.
  Fauna in the park includes 100 types of mammal, with elephants, leopards,
  the bison-like gaur and primates such as gibbons, pygmy lorises and langurs.
  There are also dozens of species of reptiles and amphibians, plus an incredible
  array of snakes, spiders and butterflies. Of the 350+ birds, rare species include
  the orange-necked partridge and Siamese fireback. Cat Tien is worthy of at least
  one night; nature enthusiasts will find enough to keep them entertained for three
  or four days.
  TOP TIP
  Dry season in Cat Tien National Park – the best time to visit – is from November to April. This
  is also the coolest time of year. Outside of these months, be prepared for everything that a
  tropical rainforest can throw at you: floods, leeches and intensely hot days.
  BEST PLACES TO STAY IN CAT TIEN
  Cat Tien Park Hotel
  Acceptable accommodation run by the national park and just inside its borders. Handy for
  early departures and you won’t need to buy multiple entrance tickets. They can also
  arrange camping. $
  Green Bamboo Lodge Resort
  Popular cluster of thatched bamboo-and-brick bungalows, most of which offer riverside
  views. The restaurant is decent and reception can arrange tours and onward travel. $$
  Forest Floor
  Atmospheric tented rooms overlooking the Ben Cu River, and larger, stylish rooms set in
  traditional wooden houses. Restaurant is also good. $$$
  Into the Jungle
  GIBBONS, GAURS, BEARS AND CROCS
  Cat Tien National Park can be explored on foot, on mountain bike, by 4WD and
  by boat along the Dong Nai River. Book experiences with the park headquarters
  at the entrance to the national park or through your hotel. The HQ provides
  information for shorter self-guided walks and cycling, but for specialist treks,
  book a tour. Some trails are flat and paved, while others are demanding, muddy
  slogs that require crossing streams. Take plenty of insect repellent and water;
  anti-leech socks are provided by the guides.
  Among the various guided tours, the early morning visit to see the dawn
  chorus of the golden-cheeked gibbons is the highlight. It starts at 4.30am and
  includes a visit to the informative Dao Tien Endangered Primate Species
  Centre. Advanced booking is recommended. Other tours include night-time
  safaris to see creepy crawlies, treks to where gaurs graze (sightings aren’t
  guaranteed), and boat trips to Crocodile Lake (Bau Sau), where seeing crocs is
  more likely if you come at sunset or book an overnight stay with the park HQ.
  The Centre of Rescue & Conservation of Species, which homes rescued sun
  bears and black bears, is also worth a visit; ask for tour times at the park HQ.
  Crocodile, Cat Tien National Park | longlife/shutterstock ©
  GETTING AROUND
  Buses between Dalat and Ho Chi Minh City pass the junction to Nam Cat Tien village and
  the park, 6km south of Ma Da Gui. It’s best to ask your guesthouse to send a
  motorbike/taxi to meet you. Small local buses to HCMC leave Nam Cat Tien village fairly
  regularly. Your guesthouse can book seats on a passing sleeper bus to Dalat or HCMC, but
  you’ll have to take a taxi to the road junction. Guesthouses either rent or provide bicycles
  free of charge. You can also rent bicycles at park headquarters for a fee.
  DALAT
  Dalat invokes Europe in many ways: the weather resembles an Italian spring,
  the town is dotted with French villas, the strawberries are as juicy as England’s
  and the flower fields rival Holland’s. In other ways, Dalat is quintessentially
  Vietnamese; energetic street food, coffee shop, karaoke and market scenes have
  blossomed to cater to an ever-expanding throng of domestic tourists, who arrive
  in droves on the weekends and during national holidays. The French established
  Dalat in 1912 so that they could flee the Saigon heat (average daily
  temperatures here hover deliciously between 15°C and 24°C). The colonists left
  behind their holiday homes and a resort vibe, which the Vietnamese have added
  to with their own unique touches. For many foreign visitors, the moderate
  climate and rugged environs have made Dalat the adventure capital of southern
  Vietnam, with canyoning, camping, mountain biking and treks into the
  surrounding hills.
  SIGHTS
  1 Bao Dai Summer Palace
  2 Crazy House
  3 Pasteur Institute
  EATING
  4 Dalat Train Cafe
  DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
  5 Co Bong
  6 Cu Ru–Sao La
  SLEEPING
  7 Cu Tren Cay Homestay
  8 Dalat Hotel du Parc
  TRANSPORT
  9 Dalat Railway Station
  TOP TIP
  Don’t underestimate how much there is to do in and around Dalat; too many visitors leave the
  city wishing they’d given it more time. Besides the outdoor activities, excellent restaurants and
  heritage properties, be sure to carve out time to aimlessly wander the streets and bars.
  BEST STREET FOOD IN DALAT
  Banh Can
  Grilled rice cakes topped with a quail egg and served with a sweet and herby fish sauce
  dip. Try it for breakfast at Ban Can Cay Bo.
  Banh Mi Xiu Mai
  Banh mi here is served with a warm pork broth instead of cold cuts. Try it for lunch at
  Banh Mi Xiu Mai Hoang Dieu.
  Banh Trang Nuong
  Grilled rice paper furnished with various tasty toppings and nicknamed ‘Dalat pizza’. Try it
  on P Nguyen Van Troi in the evenings.
  Central Dalat on Foot
  SLIP ON YOUR WALKING SHOES
  While you’ll need a motorbike or taxi to get to some of Dalat’s more far-flung
  sights, for many others you can simply slip on your walking shoes. Start at the 1
  Cong Vien Yersin (Yersin Park), a leafy park that shares its name with
  bacteriologist Alexandre Yersin, who died in nearby Nha Trang. The park sits
  on the south side of 2 Ho Xuan Huong (Xuan Huong Lake), a banana-shaped
  lake that was created by a dam in 1919 and is now named after an antiauthoritarian
  17th-century Vietnamese poet.
  Art Deco Dalat
  INDOCHINESE INTERWAR ARCHITECTURE
  Twentieth century French architecture speckles much of mainland Southeast
  Asia, but nowhere in the region showcases the angular veneers, sweeping
  curves and geometric patterns of the art deco style like Dalat. The striking
  1930s Dalat Railway Station features an unusual trio of triangular roofs,
  perhaps inspired by local ethnic minority architecture, though the two
  semicircular canopies are typical of the Indochinese art deco style. This canopy
  feature is shared with the Bao Dai Summer Palace (Bao Dai Summer Palace 3
  on Google Maps), one of several retreats in the Central Highlands to placate and
  ensconce Bao Dai, Vietnam’s last emperor. The 1933 palace, now a museum, is
  Dalat’s best example of streamline moderne, an art deco rendition that draws
  from aerial and nautical design. Look out for the rear portholes and curved
  windows that resemble the wheelhouse of a ship.
  Typography buffs might want to stop at Hotel du Parc, built in 1932 and
  boldly displaying the avenida font associated with the art deco style, or the
  Pasteur Institute, a vaccine research centre named after French chemist Louis
  Pasteur.
  WHERE TO STAY IN DALAT
  Leuleu
  Homely hostel with a friendly backpacker vibe, tidy dorms and comfy rooms. $
  Stop and Go Hotel
  Art-themed and secluded hotel surrounded by pine trees and a short walk from Xuan Huong
  Lake. $$
  Ana Mandara Villas
  Elegant, secluded property spread across seven lovingly restored French-colonial villas in the
  western suburbs. $$$
  Dare to Be Different
  DALAT’S ECCENTRICITIES
  Dalat has always had a kooky personality, evidenced by the suitably named
  Crazy House, a freewheeling architectural exploration of surrealism. Imagine
  sculptured rooms connected by slender bridges rising out of a tangle of concrete
  greenery, an excess of cascading lava-flow-like shapes, wild colours, spiderweb
  windows and an almost organic quality to it all, with the swooping
  handrails resembling jungle vines. Think of Gaudí and Tolkien dropping acid
  together and designing their own version of Disneyland.
  The brainchild of owner Mrs Dang Viet Nga, the private house has been an
  imaginative work in progress since 1990. Hang Nga, as she’s known locally, has
  a PhD in architecture from Moscow and has designed several other buildings
  around Dalat. Her father, Truong Chinh, succeeded Ho Chi Minh as Vietnam’s
  second president from 1981 until his death in 1988. There’s a shrine to him in
  the ground-floor lounge. A note of caution for those with young kids: the Crazy
  House’s maze of precarious tunnels, high walkways and steep ladders is not at
  all child safe. To experience more of Dalat’s eccentricities, stop at coffee shop
  Co Bong for nostalgia for the 1960s, stay at Cu Tren Cay Homestay, an owlthemed
  treehouse hotel or check out the Cu Ru–Sao La artist collective, which
  organises eclectic but irregular creative events.
  BEST BARS IN DALAT
  Fog Bar
  Dalat’s hipster hangout, with regular DJs in the small dark interior and a nicer outside
  terrace. It’s very much a local scene, but foreigners are welcomed too.
  Fox’s Den
  Chic cocktail lounge that could compete with the very best bars in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh
  City. Cocktails are creative, beautiful and delicious.
  District 1
  This two-storied bar offers dozens of local craft beers on tap, along with bottles from
  Belgium, Germany and the Czech Republic, in a hip, welcoming atmosphere.
  WHERE TO EAT IN DALAT
  Tiem Mi Tau Cao
  Humble eatery serving noodle wonton soup with thin slices of pork and a sprinkling of minced
  meat. $
  Le Chalet Dalat
  Opposite the Crazy House is this partially open-air, artfully decorated garden bistro serving
  Vietnamese classics. $$
  Chill Chill Eatery
  A fancy hidden gem in the hills with a Mediterranean atmosphere and creative menu. $$$
  Abseil Down Waterfalls
  ALSO KNOWN AS CANYONING
  Canyoning – a combo of walking, swimming, climbing, and abseiling down
  waterfalls – is Dalat’s flagship outdoor activity. Thrill-seekers will rejoice as
  they tiptoe down fast-flowing cascades, zipline over rapids, plunge into rock
  pools and throw themselves down the ‘washing machine’, a gushing waterfall
  that sends dangling abseilers spinning. After a few tragic and fatal accidents,
  safety is now taken very seriously, but we still advise going with a reputable
  agency like Hello Dalat, Phat Tire or Highland Sport Travel. Most arrange halfand
  full-day tours in nearby Datanla Falls.
  Crazy House | michele rucicci/shutterstock©
  BEST TOUR COMPANIES
  Hello Dalat
  Linked with Leuleu Hostel, Hello Dalat offers individual tours or multiday packages.
  Phat Tire
  Highly professional and experienced operator with mountain biking, trekking, kayaking
  and more.
  Highland Sport Travel
  There’s an emphasis on adventure with these guys, but they don’t cut corners when it
  comes to safety.
  Take the Train
  TO HELL AND BACK
  From Dalat’s cute art deco railway station you can take a train to Trai Mat.
  Once there, lose yourself in the labyrinthine Linh Phuoc Pagoda, just a couple
  of hundred metres from the station. The complex comprises a large prayer hall,
  a dragon made from more than 10,000 beer bottles, a seven-storied pagoda, a
  massive Bodhisattva of Compassion made from flowers and an adjoining hall
  with an impressive standing Bodhisattva.
  Pretty it’s not, but it is certainly impressive in its extravagance. Don’t forget
  to explore the pagoda’s terrifying interpretation of hell, a definite must but not
  at all suitable for children. Consider coffee and a dessert at The Choco, a
  chocolatier, or the Dalat Train Cafe, which occupies an old carriage that sits on
  the tracks. Note that a minimum of 25 passengers is required for the train
  journey.
  Xuan Huong Lake | quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock ©
  GRAB A COFFEE
  K’Ho Coffee (khocoffee.com) is part of a co-op that ensures profits support K’Ho
  minority farmers. If you contact them in advance, they’ll arrange workshops to learn about
  the process from bean to brew.
  GETTING AROUND
  Lien Khuong Airport is 30km south of Dalat and handles regular flights to and from Hanoi,
  Ho Chi Minh City, Danang and a growing number of Southeast Asian cities outside of
  Vietnam. From there you can get to the city by shuttle bus, taxi or you can arrange pickup
  with your lodgings. The bus station, 1.5km south of Xuan Huong Lake, is dominated by
  reputable Phuong Trang buses that cover all main regional destinations. Motorcyclists will
  relish the two roads (QL27 and QL27C) that connect Dalat with Nha Trang on the coast.
  The QL27C is the more scenic of the two. Getting around Dalat should be a mixture of
  walking, motorbiking and taxi-ing.
  Beyond Dalat
  Beyond the farms and lakes that ring Dalat are the lofty peaks and
  whopping waterfalls for which the Central Highlands are famed.
  The lakes, waterfalls and national parks near Dalat are almost destinations in
  their own right, and they make good places to retire to when the cafes and
  crowds of Dalat get too much. Apart from Tuyen Lam Lake, Dambri Falls and
  Bidoup Nui Ba National Park, there are some other points of interest close to
  Dalat that are worth investigating. Elephant Falls, 30km southwest of Dalat, is
  named after a large rock that allegedly resembles an elephant’s head. You can
  squeeze through a cave to get behind the falls and be doused with bracing spray.
  Cau Dat Farm offers tours of the rural facility and views over picturesque
  swirling rows of green tea bushes.
  Tea harvesting, Dalat | huy thoai/shutterstock ©
  TOP TIP
  Dambri Falls breaks a journey between Dalat and Ho Chi Minh City; Bidoup Nui Ba between
  Dalat and Nha Trang.
  I LIVE HERE: CAMPING NEAR DALAT
  Le Trong Thanh Liem, co-founder of Highland Sport Travel, offers a tip on where to
  camp.
  For overnight camping, it has to be Tuyen Lam Lake, which is less than 10km south of
  Dalat. This is my favourite spot because of the beautiful views of the mountains and the
  thick pine forests that surround the lake. Also, if you wake up early enough you can often
  see fog dancing on the lake, creating a mystical kind of atmosphere. This is where I like to
  get away from it all, leave my phone at home, have a barbecue by the lakeside and maybe
  throw back some local wine. If you don’t have your own tent, most travel agents in Dalat
  will be able to work something out for you.
  Dambri Falls
  SOUTHERN VIETNAM’S CROWNING CASCADE
  One of the highest and most magnificent waterfalls in Vietnam, Dambri Falls is
  worth visiting even in dry season. For some incredible views, ride the vertical
  cable car or trudge up the steep path to the top of the falls. A second path leads
  down some steep stairs for more great views, and carries on down to the smaller
  Dasara Falls. The surrounding complex includes a hotel, Ferris wheel, water
  slides and a 7D cinema (a vital addition to any natural wonder, apparently).
  Dambri Falls | viet su luoc/shutterstock ©
  Bidoup Nui Ba National Park
  LITTLE-VISITED ALPINE PLATEAU
  Occupying a densely forested highland plateau 50km north of Dalat, the Bidoup
  Nui Ba National Park encompasses coniferous woodlands, bamboo groves and
  grasslands at altitudes between 650m and 2288m. It is also home to various
  primates, black bears and the vampire flying frog.
  Possible hikes include Thien Thai Waterfall (3.5km), Lang Biang Peak
  (9km) and an overnight camping trip to Bidoup mountain. If you’re not
  travelling by motorbike, arrange a tour or transfers through a tour company in
  Dalat.
  GETTING AROUND
  Dambri Falls are 130km southwest of Dalat and over 200km north of Ho Chi Minh City. If
  you’re without wheels, consider a car transfer between the two that prices in some time at
  the falls. Alternatively, buses travelling between these cities can drop you at the junction
  leading to the falls. From there, you’ll have to negotiate with a xe om (motorbike taxi) or
  taxi. Elephant Falls, Cau Dat Farm, Bidoup Nui Ba National Park and Tuyen Lam Lake are
  all reachable by rented motorbike, chartered taxi or private tour from Dalat.
  BUON MA THUOT
  Buon Ma Thuot (BMT) can trace its origins back to a simple rural settlement:
  the Ede name translates as ‘Thuot’s father’s village’. But BMT (pronounced
  ‘buwon me tuwot’) has long outgrown its rustic origins and is now a thoroughly
  modern city. That’s largely down to its coffee, which the French introduced
  between 1915 and 1920. While the beans here aren’t known for their quality –
  most of them are processed for instant coffee – the industry has transformed
  Dak Lak Province, where BMT is situated, into a relatively prosperous place.
  Most travellers stop here en route to nearby attractions: Yok Don National
  Park, Lak Lake, a few striking waterfalls and minority villages that are home to
  a dozen or so ethnic groups. Although the city sees few visitors, it’s not an
  unpleasant base, with local restaurants serving up fresh and tasty food and
  suitably rustic cafes brewing the best of the local black stuff.
  TOP TIP
  As with many other out-of-the-way destinations in Vietnam, it’s a challenge to get under the
  skin of BMT and the surrounding areas without a motorbike. The city is low-rise but sprawling,
  which makes walking around it rather tedious, and you’ll likely need a bike to visit the
  waterfalls.
  BEST CAFES IN BMT
  ARUL
  Housed in an Ede longhouse and fringed by a leafy, flower-filled garden, stopping for
  coffee at ARUL is a must. There’s fantastic traditional food, too.
  Zen Coffee
  Another rustic option to try Espresso-based drinks made with local beans. Ethnic minority
  art elegantly imbues the space.
  House of Lens
  If the sun is shining then head to this cute outdoor cafe designed for photography
  enthusiasts. The Vietnamese coffee is fabulous.
  Celebrating Coffee
  MOST IMPORTANT MEAL OF THE DAY
  Dak Lak Province, of which Buon Ma Thuot is the capital, produces more
  coffee than anywhere else in the country. The biennial Coffee Festival – held
  next in 2025 – is designed to promote the local beans and normally takes place
  in March at various venues around town. There’s music and stilt-walking
  performances, and many cafes around town offer free coffee.
  Outside of the festival, the determined World of Coffee Museum showcases
  thousands of artefacts that reflect coffee growing history in an eye-catching
  modern building. You can also visit the Trung Nguyen Coffee Village, a kind
  of open-air coffee-themed ethnology museum, or visit a farm with Aeroco
  Coffee.
  Coffee beans | sarah nguyen/shutterstock ©
  Dray Sap & Dray Nur Waterfalls
  AKA HUSBAND AND WIFE FALLS
  This dyad of waterfalls sits less than 25km southwest of Buon Ma Thuot and
  visiting it deserves at least half a day including the pretty journey from town,
  even though you won’t be able to swim. Unlike many other waterfalls in
  Vietnam, Dray Sap and Dray Nur falls haven’t been added to or tampered with,
  and the various viewing platforms afford spellbinding, face-spraying vistas.
  Dray Nur is 250m wide and probably the more impressive of the two.
  GETTING AROUND
  BMT’s airport is 8km from the city, and handles flights to HCMC, Hanoi and Danang. There
  are several bus stations and stops around town, so book buses through your
  accommodation and you’ll be told where you need to be and when. Small luxury buses will
  usually pick you up from your hotel but the list of cities they go to is limited. Public buses
  serve all major cities in the region, as well as Nha Trang, Tuy Hoa, Danang and HCMC. The
  best way to get around BMT is by motorbike, but taxis are also available.
  Beyond Buon Ma Thuot
  Ethical elephant experiences in Vietnam’s biggest nature reserve and
  remote village visits around a highland lake.
  Buon Ma Thuot sits betwixt Yok Don National Park – the most expansive
  nature reserve in Vietnam – and Lak Lake – the largest natural body of water in
  the Central Highlands. Yok Don encompasses over 115,000 hectares of mainly
  dry deciduous forest that is punctuated by the meandrous Srepok River, which
  runs all the way to Cambodia. Its dozens of wild mammal species, including
  elephants, leopards and rare red wolves, hide deep in the jungle and are virtually
  never encountered by visitors but more commonly seen wildlife includes
  muntjac deer, monkeys, snakes and birds. Lak Lake, especially pretty at sunrise
  and sunset, sets the stage for natatory activities and village visits.
  Asian elephant in Yok Don National Park | dorsteffen/shutterstock ©
  TOP TIP
  Lak Lake has some wonderful accommodation options; Yok Don does not. Consider visiting
  the park from BMT but overnighting at the lake.
  THE MATRILINEAL EDE CULTURE
  The Ede people of Dak Lak Province are unique for their matrilineal family structure and
  the powerful position that women wield in the family. Young women generally choose their
  husband, who then moves into their wife’s family longhouse, which is owned by the family
  matriarch. Children take the mother’s surname, and family property is passed down from
  mother to daughter (sons get no inheritance), giving the women important economic
  power. The wife is generally responsible for the family budget. The centuries-old
  matrilineal system is changing in the face of Vietnam’s rapid economic transitions, but
  remains largely intact in remoter rural areas. Buon Don, an Ede village complex 40km
  north of BMT, feels a bit staged, but is interesting nonetheless.
  An Ethical Elephant Experience
  GET CLOSE. BUT NOT TOO CLOSE
  It’s an hour or so by bus from Buon Ma Thuot to Yok Don National Park
  (yokdonnationalpark.vn), which arranges decent hiking, cycling, boating, birdwatching
  and fishing tours. But the flagship experience here is the ethical
  elephant tour, the fruits of a collaboration between the national park and NGO
  Animals Asia. Aimed at discerning visitors and with elephant welfare concerns
  at the fore, the full- and half-day tours allow you to view three pachyderms who
  were once used for rides. Now they roam more or less free, though under the
  watchful protection of their mahouts to make sure they don’t wander onto
  private property.
  Lak Lake | quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock ©
  Overnight Overlooking the Water
  RUSTIC LODGE AND TENTED CAMP
  Lak Lake, about an hour by bus from Buon Ma Thuot, has at least two
  accommodation options that make overnighting on the water an experience in
  itself. On the inside Lak View Hotel has few frills, but it offers glorious views
  of the lake and can arrange hiking, cycling, motorbiking, boating, barbecues and
  visits to nearby M’nong villages. The more atmospheric option is Lak Tented
  Camp, on the other side of the lake and reachable by boat. This rustic luxury
  and low-impact lodge has less than a score of glamping tents and bungalows;
  there are also dorm beds for penny pinchers. From there you can hike to
  waterfalls, kayak on the lake and visit villages.
  GETTING AROUND
  Public buses serve Yok Don from BMT but schedules and pick-up points change frequently
  – ask at your accommodation. Alternatively, arrange transport with the national park
  when booking a tour or negotiate pick-up and drop-off with a driver in BMT. Buses
  between Dalat and BMT pass Lak Lake, so you can arrange to be dropped off there.
  KON TUM
  Kon Tum’s relaxed ambience, river setting and relatively traffic-free streets
  make it a rewarding stop for travellers intent on exploring the surrounding
  ethnic minority villages. There are around 700 dotting the area – mostly Bahnar,
  but also Sedang and Jarai. For delving into the culture of these groups, Kon
  Tum is a far better base than Pleiku, the larger, uglier but better-connected city
  45km south, which was rebuilt after being obliterated during the American War.
  Though the city of Kon Tum didn’t suffer like Pleiku, the province saw its
  share of combat during the war. A major battle between South and North
  Vietnam took place in and around Kon Tum in the spring of 1972, when the
  area was devastated by American B-52 raids. Either by chance, treaty or divine
  intervention, the exquisite cathedral, built entirely from wood, survived and it
  remains a thriving place of worship and an emblem of the city.
  TOP TIP
  The prefix ‘kon’ in a place name generally denotes a Bahnar village; ‘plei’ is most likely a Jarai
  village. Keep this in mind when exploring. Kon Tum and Pleiku are now multi-ethnic
  municipalities, but their names suggest that the cities grew out of Bahnar and Jarai
  communities respectively.
  Christian Kon Tum
  ECCLESIASTICAL HERITAGE
  Built entirely from wood, the Immaculate Conception Cathedral has a dark
  frontage, gold trim and wide colonnades. Known to the locals as the Nha Tho
  Go (wooden church), it’s light, airy and elegant inside, with genius interlocking
  beams. The heart of the 160-year-old Kon Tum diocese, it primarily serves the
  ethnic minority community.
  Two blocks north is the lovely old Catholic Seminary, built in 1934. The
  upstairs functions as a museum of hill-tribe life, but it isn’t always open.
  Outside, to the left of the building, note the sculpture of Mary and baby Jesus,
  with Mary dressed in traditional clothing and carrying a Bahnar-style backpack.
  The Immaculate Conception Cathedral, Kon Tum | thi/shutterstock ©
  WHERE TO STAY, EAT & DRINK IN KON TUM
  Konklor Hotel
  This resort-like place offers clean, neat duplexes 2km from the centre. $
  Vietnamese Restaurants
  There’s a triangular neighbourhood of good local restaurants between P Dao Duy Tu and P Tran
  Hung Dao. $–$$
  Indochine Café
  Attached to the decent Indochine Hotel, the cafe and bar showcases the bamboo architecture
  of Vo Trong Nghia.
  The Bahnar Villages
  LOOMING COMMUNITY HOUSES
  Several clusters of Bahnar villages dot the peripheries of Kon Tum. Village life
  centres on the traditional nha rong, a tall thatched-roof community stilt house.
  This is the focal point for festivals and doubles as a meeting house, spiritual
  centre, court and school. Rong roofs typically have decorations on top, or even
  woven into them. The stilts were originally there to provide protection from
  elephants, tigers and other animals. The traditional houses are also on stilts,
  with livestock residing underneath. Always ask permission before pointing a
  camera at people’s faces or homes.
  Closest to Kon Tum is the beautiful nha rong of Kon Harachot; a little
  further east is the harder-to-find nha rong at Kon Tum Konam. Nine
  kilometres southeast of Kon Tum, the village of Kon K’tu is reachable across
  the Kon K’lor suspension bridge and along a potholed road. There’s a beautiful
  riverside nha rong here near the Catholic church and a couple of simple
  homestays. En route you’ll pass another nha rong at Kon K’lor.
  Rong house in a Bahnar village | ovu0ng/shutterstock ©
  WHY I LOVE KON TUM
  Josh Zukas, Lonely Planet writer
  @joshuazukas
  Kon Tum was the first city I visited in the Central Highlands. It was summer in the midnoughties
  and I motorbiked up from the sweltering coast. I distinctly remember the
  weather getting colder, cloudier and wetter. After passing over the frosty Violak mountain
  pass and descending through the highland village of Mang Den, I arrived in a very muddy
  Kon Tum. It was as if I’d entered into a different country; the atmosphere was nothing like
  the lowlands. I’ve been back several times since and, unlike many Vietnamese cities, Kon
  Tum has changed little. Visitors are still few and far between, the villages remain
  welcoming and the architecture continues to take my breath away. Kon Tum remains a doit-
  yourself destination, but that’s all part of its appeal.
  The Jarai Villages
  SEEK OUT THE CEMETERIES
  Some isolated Jarai villages still practise traditional customs, such as the
  feeding of the dead in traditional cemeteries. Graves are marked with a shelter
  or bamboo stakes and carved wooden figures are placed along the edge, often
  pictured with hands over faces in an expression of mourning. A jar placed on
  the grave represents the deceased person, and objects that the deceased might
  need in the next world are buried with them.
  For seven years after the death, relatives bring food to the grave and pass
  death anniversaries at the grave site, mourning and celebrating the deceased by
  feasting and drinking rice wine. After the seventh year, the spirit is believed to
  have moved on and the grave is abandoned after an elaborate ceremony of
  animal sacrifice and gong–music that finally cuts the connection between the
  living and the dead. Ya Chim (Ia Chim on Google Maps) is a district with
  several Jarai villages starting 10km southwest of Kon Tum.
  MINH THANH TEMPLE
  Built only in 2014, this large and splendid Buddhist complex, surrounded by water features
  and bonsai trees, sits south of the city centre. Its proudest feature is a gorgeous ninetiered
  pagoda that’s lit up at night.
  Minh Thanh Pagoda
  SEEK OUT THE CEMETERIES
  If visiting Kon Tum, there’s a chance you’ll also pass through Pleiku, a much
  larger city 45km south with an airport and a better-connected bus station. You’ll
  likely not want to stay overnight here, but if passing then it’s worth exploring
  Minh Thanh Temple. Built only in 2014, this large and splendid Buddhist
  complex, surrounded by water features and bonsai trees, sits south of the city
  centre. Its proudest feature is a gorgeous nine-tiered pagoda that’s lit up at night.
  Fearsome dragons curl up from the corners of the roof of the main temple
  building.
  GETTING AROUND
  Kon Tum has no airport. Buses to Pleiku (via Pleiku Airport) depart from several points in
  the city – ask where at your accommodation. Kon Tum’s main bus station, inconveniently
  located 2.5km northwest of the centre, handles long-distance services. For Hoi An, take a
  Danang bus or minivan and change there. Faster limousine minivans run to other cities.
  They’re useful because they drop you in the centre of town; get your hotel to book these.
  Motorbike is the most sensible way to explore Kon Tum and the surrounding villages.
  HO CHI MINH CITY
  HIP METROPOLIS DRIVING VIETNAM
  Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) is Vietnam at its most dizzying: a high-octane
  metropolis of commerce and culture that has driven the country forward.
  Bui Vien Walking Street | CAROL.ANNE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  If Hanoi is synonymous with culture and history, Ho Chi Minh City is fun, hip
  and young. Here, steel and glass skyscrapers cast their long shadows over
  century-old Indochina-era buildings. With over nine million residents (and what
  seems like just as many motorbikes) spread over 24 districts, HCMC offers
  controlled chaos 24/7 with rewarding sights for temple- and museum-goers,
  market hounds, history junkies, architecture fans, foodies or simply anyone
  addicted to vibrant city life.
  Vietnam’s largest city also draws university students and people who looking
  for better employment opportunities from all over the region, making it a true
  melting pot of cultures and cuisines.
  Originally part of the kingdom of Cambodia, Saigon was a relatively small
  port town known as Prey Nokor until the late 17th century. As ethnic
  Vietnamese settlers pushed south, the city became the base for the Nguyen
  Lords who were the rulers of southern Vietnam from the 16th to the 18th
  centuries. During the Tay Son Rebellion against the Nguyen Lords, fleeing
  Chinese supporters established a settlement nearby, which became known by
  their Vietnamese neighbours as Cholon (Big Market). Later, under French rule,
  Saigon became the capital of Cochinchina, and with their departure in 1954, the
  city served as the capital of the Republic of Vietnam. After it fell to North
  Vietnamese forces in 1975, the city was officially renamed Ho Chi Minh City
  (although many still refer to it as Saigon, especially when talking about
  downtown Districts 1 and 3).
  Today HCMC is the financial and commercial engine of the Vietnamese
  economy, with a growth rate way above the national average and eye-watering
  land prices. It has the highest GDP per capita in Vietnam, with stylishly dressed
  middle-class residents sporting the latest in tech and cars. Part of Ho Chi Minh
  City’s charm is its eclectic Old meets New vibe, with century-old tree-lined
  boulevards and sumptuous heritage buildings from the French-colonial period,
  many now converted into trendy cafes, artsy museums and grand hotels.
  Binh Thanh District, Ho Chi Minh City. | CRAVENA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  THE MAIN AREAS
  DONG KHOI AREA
  Glitzy and historic.
  REUNIFICATION PALACE & AROUND
  Hip, local vibe.
  CHOLON
  The world’s largest Chinatown.
  DA KAO & AROUND
  Leafy with understated charm.
  DISTRICT 2
  Easy expat living.
  Find Your Way
  Ho Chi Minh City covers a sprawling 2,000 sq km, with the Saigon River
  flowing through the eastern part of the city. Most visitors with only a few
  days will concentrate on downtown Districts 1 and 3 where most of the
  attractions and restaurants are.
  Plan Your Days
  Energise yourself with a velvety cup of iced coffee before exploring what
  makes Saigon amazing: French-era architecture, colourful temples, and
  world-class eats spanning delicious street food to cutting-edge gourmet.
  Banh Trang Nuong (Vietnamese pizza) | AJNGUYEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Day 1
  Morning
• Spend the morning walking Ho Chi Minh City’s downtown filled with gorgeous heritage
  buildings. Pick up some postcards at the Nguyen Van Binh Book Street before mailing
  them off at the historic Central Post Office just next door.
  Afternoon
• See the city from 49 stories up at the Bitexco Financial Tower. Understand more about
  Vietnam at the History Museum of Ho Chi Minh City followed by a whimsical water
  puppet show.
  Evening
• Join the crowds at pedestrian-only đ Nguyen Hue followed by dinner at the Trieu
  Institute where gourmet dishes are paired with Vietnamese craft gin.
  Day 2
  Morning
• If Start the day with a steaming bowl of pho before taking a cooking class with a tour
  through Ben Thanh Market.
  Afternoon
• Escape the heat of the day and enjoy seeing the history of Vietnam through an art lens
  at the Fine Arts Museum. Then uncover Vietnam’s more recent history at the sobering
  War Remnants Museum.
  Evening
• Watch the sun go down at Anan Saigon’s rooftop bar with a pho-jito in hand, followed
  by an innovative meal of reinterpreted street food. See the inside of the Opera House
  taking in an acrobatic extravaganza aka the A O Show, followed by a nightcap at Summer
  Experiment.
  Day 3
  Morning
• Join the locals in some early morning exercise at leafy Tao Dan Park before heading to
  Cholon to explore the world’s largest Chinatown with a lunch of steamed dumplings and
  net coffee at Thu Do Market.
  Afternoon
• Wander the atmospheric Jade Emperor Pagoda featuring both Taoist and Buddhist
  elements all wrapped up in a smoky haze of incense then reward yourself with high tea at
  the stylish Hôtel des Arts Saigon.
  Evening
• Check out the incredibly detailed drawings of the city at The Studio Saigon with a predinner
  drink at the hidden bar. Then head next door to Nous Dine for an unforgettable
  meal where Vietnamese flavours are given a modern makeover.
  You’ll Also Want to…
  Get out of Districts 1 and 3 and explore a different, less polished but
  equally fun, side of the city with kite flying and craft beer.
  SEE THE COUNTRYSIDE
  Cycle around the island of Thanh Da, just minutes from downtown,
  with its rice fields and Mekong Delta–esque vibe.
  hien phung thu/shutterstock ©
  GO FLY A KITE
  Join hundreds of kiters at the foot of the Thu Thiem 2 bridge with
  bonus views of the city skyline.
  tuleyhcm/shutterstock ©
  EXPLORE D4
  A short walk from downtown, eat your way through the many seafood
  street food options in working-class District 4.
  steve estvanik/shutterstock ©
  GET ARTSY
  Join one of the many workshops held around the city like woodcut
  printing inspired by street scenes at Jack Clayton’s District 4 studio.
  xita/shutterstock ©
  EXPERIMENTAL CUISINE
  Ask nicely for an impromptu artisan fish sauce tasting at Restaurant
  Esta
  successo images/shutterstock ©
  CRAFT BEER TOUR
  Sample the booming craft beer scene with a DIY tour of District 2
  taprooms, taking inspiration from local ingredients.
  jack langer/shutterstock ©
  GET HIGH
  Head up to Blank Lounge on the 75th floor of Landmark 81 for
  sweeping city views and sunset cocktails.
  hien phung thu/shutterstock ©
  DONG KHOI AREA
  GLITZY AND HISTORIC
  If Ho Chi Minh City officially had a downtown, the area around Dong Khoi and
  Nguyen Hue streets would be it. It’s one of the few areas where you would do
  better to explore on foot than by taxi, with tons of attractions bunched close
  together. It doesn’t take much to imagine these streets as they once were –
  canals allowing ships to cruise up the Saigon River and on to the citadel. Now
  filled in, the shophouses have given way to ritzy boutiques and trendy cafes but
  if you look hard enough, there are still traces of turn-of-the-century architectural
  elements that give this area unique appeal. While certainly not the typical
  Vietnam, this neighbourhood is a fantasy of sorts, a playground for the
  privileged and a wondrous walk back in time among gorgeous heritage
  buildings like the Opera House and Central Post Office.
  SIGHTS
  1 Bitexco Financial Tower
  2 Central Post Office
  3 Fine Arts Museum
  4 HCMC Museum
  5 Ho Chi Minh Museum
  6 Notre Dame Cathedral
  7 Opera House
  EATING
  8 42 Ly Tu Trong
  9 Anan Saigon
  DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
  10 Ros Yacht Club
  11 Saigon Saigon Bar
  12 Trieu Institute
  SHOPPING
  13 Dong Khoi Street
  14 Nguyen Hue
  15 Nguyen Van Binh Book Street
  TRANSPORT
  16 Bach Dang Jetty
  TOP TIP
  With its many hip cafes and French-style bakeries, this area is perfect for a leisurely break in
  the day just relaxing and people watching in between seeing the sights. The window shopping
  is second-to-none, and this is the place to pick up high-end gifts and home decor items.
  Nguyen Van Binh Book Street
  SHADY WALK FOR BOOK LOVERS
  This lovely 100m-long shady stretch between Hai Ba Trung Street and Notre
  Dame Cathedral caters to bibliophiles and the Instagram crowd with about two
  dozen book and stationery shops (with some titles in English), artsy stalls
  selling pottery and other handicrafts, and a few open-air cafes to soak in the
  wholesome atmosphere. A small playground strangely themed around road
  safety makes it popular with families, especially in the evenings and weekends.
  The wide lane often hosts photography exhibitions and other cultural events.
  Book store on Book Street | LONG BAOW/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Central Post Office
  HISTORIC, STILL-FUNCTIONAL POST OFFICE
  The city’s landmark and fully functional French-era post office is a period
  classic, designed by Marie-Alfred Foulhoux (though often miscredited to
  Gustave Eiffel) and built between 1886 and 1891. The spacious barrel-vaulted
  hall and copious green-painted wrought iron are reminiscent of a train station.
  Elements inside and out are themed after scientific advancements with exterior
  plaques honouring personalities like Samuel Morse and Benjamin Franklin
  while the interior features fascinating historical maps of South Vietnam, Saigon
  and Cholon and a large mosaic of Ho Chi Minh. As you enter, remember to look
  down and admire the magnificent vintage tiled floors.
  HUY THOAI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Notre Dame Cathedral
  FRENCH-BUILT RED BRICK CHURCH
  Built between 1877 and 1883 at a cost of over 2.5 million francs, the Notre
  Dame Cathedral enlivens the heart of Ho Chi Minh City’s government quarter.
  Its twin bell towers are topped with spires and crosses that reach 60m and its
  red-brick, neo-Romanesque façade is a favourite wedding photography
  background. This Catholic cathedral loosely modelled after the Paris version of
  the same name has been under renovation since 2017 with completion dates
  pushed back until 2027. At time of research, the only way to admire its stainedglass
  windows and interior walls is to attend mass. The lovely park across the
  street is a popular hangout spot for students.
  Notre Dame Cathedral | EFIRED/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Nguyen Hue
  WALKING STREET WITH TRENDY CAFÉS
  Once known by the French as ‘le Grand Canal’ allowing access from the city to
  the Saigon River, Nguyen Hue has long since been filled in and is now a
  walking street lined with shops, restaurants and offices. The boulevard stretches
  from the dreamy People’s Committee Building with its pale-yellow baroque
  façade and stately Corinthian columns inspired by Paris’ Hôtel de Ville (town
  hall) on down to the river. While the interior is unfortunately not open to the
  public, rare photographs show much of the original architectural and decorative
  elements remain intact. There’s no shade during the day, so after taking a
  picture in front of the 7.2m-high bronze statue of Ho Chi Minh, it’s best to duck
  inside, perhaps at the three-storey Fahasa book store or the apartment block
  turned shopping centre above known as the ‘Café Apartments’ for its many
  eclectic tea and coffee places. Browse the cutesy clothing boutiques then grab a
  coveted seat on one of the cafe balconies at dusk to see the crowds gather
  below, watching street performers, musicians and dancers.
  42 Ly Tu Trong
  1930S APARTMENT BLOCK WITH RETAIL SPACE
  Just a few doors down from the famous rooftop immortalised by Dutch
  photojournalist Hubert van Es in his 1975 war-era photo is one of the city’s
  popular residential buildings turned retail space. Head up the stairs to The
  Studio Saigon, the art gallery of British bartender-artist Richie Fawcett and
  browse his artwork of incredibly detailed street scenes of Ho Chi Minh City. If
  you’re lucky, you may get an invitation to his hidden bar where signature drinks
  from his ‘Cocktail Art of Saigon’ book are served. The same building also
  houses Nous Dine, a spectacular eight-seat capsule restaurant serving seasonal
  six-course tasting menus. Watch as the chefs meticulously craft modern dishes
  inspired by Vietnamese flavours and ingredients.
  Bitexco Financial Tower
  STELLAR VIEWS FROM THE CITY’S SECOND-HIGHEST BUILDING
  There’s no better way to get to grips with the layout of HCMC than to head up
  high. One of the best viewpoints is from the Skydeck on the 49th floor of the
  Bitexco Financial Tower (pictured), a 262m-high, Carlos Zapata–designed
  skyscraper. Opened in 2010, the building has three floors below and 68 floors
  above ground with a retail mall at its base. The steel and glass structure is
  inspired by a blossoming lotus, Vietnam’s national flower, and the lip on the
  52nd floor is supposedly a helipad.
  R.M.NUNES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Opera House
  ELEGANT FRENCH-ERA PERFORMANCE VENUE
  Officially known as the Municipal Theatre, this grand colonial edifice with a
  sweeping staircase and marble statues captures the flamboyance of France’s
  belle époque. Built in 1897 at a cost of over 2.5 million francs, the Opera House
  is one of the city’s most recognisable buildings. The only way to see its elegant
  interior with chandeliers, bronze statues and pretty granite floors is to attend a
  performance. Check out the Ho Chi Minh City Ballet Symphony Orchestra
  Facebook page for the latest on performances ranging from ballet and opera to
  modern dance and musicals. The entertaining A O Show also shares the venue,
  an acrobatic extravaganza that’s part circus, part live music and cultural
  showcase.
  Opera House | VASILIY RYABYKH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Anan Saigon
  INNOVATIVE VIETNAMESE CUISINE WITH A MODERN TWIST
  Set in a wet market in the shadow of the Bitexco Financial Tower, Anan Saigon
  is viewed by many as the godfather of contemporary Vietnamese cuisine. It
  created a buzz by serving $100 versions of pho and banh mi, but its regular
  offerings are equally innovative, offering a modern twist on street food
  favourites. Reimagined dishes combining Vietnamese ingredients and flavours
  with French cooking techniques include banh xeo tacos and fish sauce ice
  cream. Head up the stairs for Nhau Nhau, a cocktail bar inspired by Old Saigon,
  Pot Au Pho, serving variations on the classic noodle soup, or watch the sunset
  from the rooftop bar.
  Ho Chi Minh Museum
  ALL THINGS ‘UNCLE HO’
  The Ho Chi Minh Museum covers the story of Vietnam’s most beloved
  revolutionary and statesman, from his childhood to his political awakening, his
  role in booting out the French and leading North Vietnam, and his death in 1969
  – mainly through photographs and personal effects. The building itself is the
  former customs house, built by the French authorities in 1863, making it the
  oldest extant colonial building in the city. It’s also known as the ‘Dragon
  House’ (Nha Rong) for its twin rooftop dragons, more often seen in pagodas
  and temples.
  Ho Chi Minh Museum | SAIKO3P/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Ho Chi Minh City Museum
  LEARN ABOUT THE CITY’S HISTORY AND CULTURE
  A grand neoclassical structure built in 1885 and once known as Gia Long
  Palace, HCMC’s city museum (pictured) tells the story of the city through
  archaeological artefacts, ceramics and old city maps. The struggle for
  independence is extensively covered, with most of the upper floor devoted to it.
  However, there are also fascinating exhibits on Vietnamese currency, Saigonese
  culture including wedding customs, betel nut chewing, folk music and religious
  beliefs. In the gardens are various pieces of military hardware, including the
  American-built F-5E jet used by a renegade South Vietnamese pilot to bomb the
  Presidential Palace (now Reunification Palace) on 8 April 1975.
  VICHIE81/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Fine Arts Museum
  ANCIENT TO MODERN VIETNAMESE ART
  With its airy corridors and vintage verandas, it’s hard to decide which is more
  beautiful: the elegant 1929 colonial-era, yellow-and-white building or the over
  22,000 period artefacts it houses. The museum is exuberantly tiled throughout
  and home to some fine (albeit deteriorated) stained glass, as well as one of
  Saigon’s oldest lifts. The museum is divided into ancient art and modern art
  including 4th-century, Funan-era wood and stone sculptures and Cham art from
  the 7th to 14th centuries. More modern pieces include an absolutely stunning
  oversized lacquer painting by renowned artist Nguyen Gia Tri which took 20
  years to complete and a fascinating collection of war-era propaganda art. Walk
  the grounds and courtyard to view more statuary.
  Trieu Institute
  RESTAURANT AND BAR FEATURING VIETNAMESE GIN
  Inspired by the diverse cultures, flavours and plant life of Vietnam, Lady Trieu
  craft gin is produced in small batches in its distillery in Cu Chi, using botanicals
  sustainably sourced from independent farms, village markets and co-operatives
  across Vietnam. See if you can identify some of the spices, teas, fruits and herbs
  mounted in glass globes as you walk to the chef’s table with a view of the show
  kitchen. The menu playfully incorporates some of these botanicals into
  beautifully presented contemporary dishes designed to pair with the popular
  range of gins. Upstairs, the bar specialises in innovative gin-based drinks.
  Dong Khoi Street
  SAIGON’S PREMIER SHOPPING DESTINATION
  Once known as Rue Catinat during the French era, Dong Khoi street is Saigon’s
  ritziest address (and most expensive real estate), lined by luxe designer shops,
  glitzy hotels, cute souvenir stores and pretty heritage buildings turned boutiques
  and cafes. The heart of Old Saigon, this well-heeled area runs from the river to
  Notre Dame Cathedral via the Opera House (Municipal Theatre) and lends its
  name to the encircling civic centre and central business district. Just diagonally
  opposite to the Opera House, duck into the Art Arcade, a small alleyway lined
  with shops selling original and reproduction paintings. Continue upstairs into
  the French-era building for more chic cafes and boutique stores. Further down
  Dong Khoi, stop at Brodard Restaurant & Tea House, the city’s oldest cafe for a
  freshly baked slice of cake. At the very end of the street, you’ll find the Bach
  Dang Wharf and a lovely riverside boardwalk that’s an especially popular
  hangout spot at night, cooled by river breezes and fed by mobile snack carts.
  Dong Khoi Street | SHEVCHENKO ANDREY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  BEST LOCAL EATS
  Hoa Tuc
  Tucked away in the courtyard of Saigon’s old Opium Refinery, Hoa Tuc serves healthy
  versions of Vietnamese favourites in a pretty art deco space. The cooking classes are wellrun
  in the restaurant itself. $$
  Food Alley at 76 Hai Ba Trung
  For cheap eats in normally expensive downtown, head to this food alley starting midafternoon
  where a dozen or so vendors sell rice and noodle dishes. Buy a drink to claim a
  seat at the tables in the back. $
  Quan Bui
  An extensive menu featuring dishes from all over Vietnam made with no MSG and reduced
  sugar and salt makes this a very popular spot with stylish locals. $$
  MORE IN DONG KHOI
  Saigon from a Different Perspective
  EXPLORING BY BUS, BOAT, VINTAGE CAR AND FOOT
  Hardly anyone walks anywhere in Ho Chi Minh City due to the heat, humidity
  and traffic, which can sometimes spill even onto the sidewalks. If you’re not
  handy with a motorbike, the Hop On–Hop Off Bus is a great way to see the city.
  Cover the route of 10 city highlights in less than an hour on a whirlwind tour or
  get off and see the sights with a full-day ticket. If you must walk, though, at
  least do it for the right reason. Old Compass Travel organises heritage walking
  tours (with some taxi rides) covering the history, architecture, religion and
  everyday life of Saigon. Ho Chi Minh City has its fair share of rooftop bars, but
  perhaps none as historic as the Saigon Saigon Rooftop Bar, one of the city’s
  oldest. It doesn’t take much to imagine politicians, soldiers and journalists
  enjoying an ice-cold beer on the 10th-floor patio overlooking Dong Khoi Street
  and surrounds. Nowadays, instead of bullets and bombs, it’s Latin beats that
  supply the soundtrack to go along with a legendary Happy Hour.
  FROM THE WATER
  To see Saigon from the water, check out the luxe speedboat cruises from Les
  Rives that leave from the Bach Dang Wharf. Well-organised tours visit Can
  Gio, the Cu Chi Tunnels and the Saigon River at sunset with bonus cocktails.
  For a more wallet-friendly alternative, consider hopping on the Saigon
  Waterbus. Originally envisioned as a way to ease road traffic for commuters, it’s
  since become more popular with tourists as a way to take in the city’s skyline
  for less than a dollar. There are currently five stops heading north that take just
  under an hour to traverse, passing impressive yachts, several bridges, quiet
  riverside cafes and restaurants, and the lush Mekong Delta–like island of
  Thanh Da. Time your return trip back to the Bach Dang Wharf in the late
  afternoon and snag a seat on the outdoor terrace of the glitzy Ros Yacht Club
  while enjoying dinner or cocktails as the sun sets on the Saigon River.
  HIDDEN TREASURES
  To see some of the hidden gems of the city while picking up a new skill, Saigon
  Imaging photography tours start in a quiet pagoda close to downtown where
  guests learn to experiment with light and other settings, then meander on
  through small alleyways, local markets and atmospheric apartment complexes
  with the goal of getting out of auto mode. Completely customisable for absolute
  beginners to seasoned pros, it’s a fun way to chase the light and slow down
  Saigon’s crazy traffic with long exposure shots.
  Another way to see the sights while being seen is getting chauffeured around
  the city in a vintage convertible Citroën with Saigon 2CV Tour. Choose from a
  French 2CV or a La Dalat, the first car ever assembled and produced in Vietnam
  in the early 1970s, and either cruise the city highlights during the day or go on a
  street food tour at night.
  Ho Chi Minh City | NGUYEN QUANG NGOC TONKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  WHERE TO FIND CRAFT BEER TAPROOMS
  Pasteur Street Original Taprooml
  This cosy taproom and adjacent rooftop offer a dozen craft beers to choose from.
  Rogue Saigon
  This chill spot has 15 beers on tap and rooftop views of Bitexco Tower.
  Heart of Darkness
  Choose from more than 20 craft beers including pale ales, IPAs and lagers.
  I LIVE HERE: SAIGON’S BEST BARS
  Richie Fawcett (@richie_fawcett), bartender-artist and author of Cocktail Art of Saigon,
  shares some of his favourite downtown watering holes.
  Summer Experiment
  Go up the stairs in an old building to find this hidden bar with an innovative menu; it’s just
  a fun place to go.
  Nhau Nhau
  The intimate, contemporary decor provides a lovely contrast to the wet market below.
  Grab a balcony seat and watch the world go by.
  Firkin Bar
  Consider yourself lucky to get a seat in this classy bar with an unparalleled whiskey
  selection and immaculate attention to detail.
  Layla Eatery & Bar
  The one place that comes to mind where fun tongue-in-cheek cocktails never disappoint
  and the atmosphere is guaranteed to be lively.
  FOR WAR BUFFS
  A visit to the Cu Chi Tunnels,an elaborate system of tunnels about 1.5 hours from Ho Chi
  Minh City, helps explain how the Viet Cong were able to combat American and South
  Vietnamese forces using guerrilla tactics.
  WHERE TO STAY AROUND DONG KHOI
  Fusion Suites Saigon
  Occupying the top 10 floors of the trendy Saigon Centre, this hotel is both stylish and
  affordable. $$$
  Little Saigon Boutique Hotel
  Rooms may be small, but they’re clean and cosy at budget-friendly prices in the heart of
  downtown. $$
  Caravelle Hotel
  Opened in 1959 just opposite the Opera House, the five-star rooms in the Heritage Wing have
  especially great views. $$$
  REUNIFICATION PALACE &
  AROUND
  HIP, LOCAL VIBE
  The area west of the Reunification Palace is broadly known as Ho Chi Minh
  City’s District 3, an often overlooked neighbourhood compared to the glitz of
  neighbouring downtown District 1, but steadily gaining buzz as the city’s
  coolest neighbourhood. This grid of busy, leafy streets encloses the inviting
  spaces of Tao Dan Park and the pristine grounds of the Reunification Palace.
  It’s here that you’ll find a happy marriage of laid-back local culture and hip, upand-
  coming designer boutiques, as well as some of Ho Chi Minh City’s best
  eats. In addition to stylish dining options, there are loads of great budget eats,
  from mom-and-pop joints that have been serving one-dish meals for decades to
  entire streets gloriously lined with street food stalls where you can feast on
  several different dishes for the cost of a cup of coffee back home. District 3 also
  has a sense of history, with one of the highest concentrations of heritage
  buildings in the city, many of which have found new life as shops and cafes.
  HIGHLIGHTS
  1 Reunification Palace
  2 War Remnants Museum
  SIGHTS
  3 Mariamman Hindu Temple
  4 Tao Dan Park
  5 Venerable Thich Quang Duc Memorial
  6 Xa Loi Pagoda
  EATING
  7 Ban Co Market
  DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
  8 Bui Vien Walking Street
  9 Hôtel des Arts Saigon
  SHOPPING
  10 Ben Thanh Market
  TOP TIP
  Consider basing yourself in District 3. There’s an element of discovery here that’s missing in
  the more touristed areas, including uncovering lesser-known but equally tasty eateries. Many
  of the attractions are within walking distance along shady streets and the main sights of the
  downtown core are all just a short taxi ride away.
  Venerable Thich Quang Duc Memorial
  STATUE OF SELF-IMMOLATING MONK
  This peaceful memorial park is dedicated to Thich Quang Duc, the 66-year-old
  Buddhist monk who famously self-immolated at this intersection just a few
  blocks away from the Xa Loi Pagoda in 1963. Protesting anti-Buddhist policies
  (including a ban earlier that year on flying the Buddhist flag) by Ngo Dinh
  Diem, the US-backed president of South Vietnam, Thich Quang Duc’s act of
  revolt is credited in part for the US entering the war. The memorial was
  inaugurated in 2010, displaying a 12-tonne, 6m-high copper alloy statue of
  Thich Quang Duc wreathed in flames before a bas-relief showing the Buddhist
  struggle against repression.
  Venerable Thich Quang Duc Memorial | AREAF AREEMAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Mariamman Hindu Temple
  COLOURFUL CENTURY-OLD HINDU TEMPLE
  Only a small number of Hindus live in HCMC, but this colourful slice of
  southern India is also considered sacred by many ethnic Vietnamese and
  Chinese. Reputed to have miraculous powers, the temple was built at the end of
  the 19th century by Tamil-speaking Chettyars and dedicated to the Hindu
  mother goddess Mariamman, believed to be able to ward off disease and help
  with fertility. The temple’s most striking feature is its ornate tower (pictured),
  decorated with dozens of spectacularly colourful statues.
  ARTROMANOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Xa Loi Pagoda
  BUDDHIST PAGODA HOUSING SACRED RELIC
  The inner walls of this modernist sanctuary, famed as the repository of a sacred
  relic of the Buddha, are adorned with paintings depicting the Buddha’s life.
  However, this 1956 building is most notable for an August 1963 raid where
  truckloads of armed men attacked the temple, which had become a centre of
  opposition to the Diem government. Today it’s again a peaceful Buddhist
  refuge, with a large seated Buddha statue and a 32m-high seven-tier tower in its
  complex. Women enter the main hall which houses a giant golden Sakyamuni
  (the historical Buddha), by the staircase on the right as you come in the gate;
  men use the stairs on the left.
  PARKS & RECREATION
  Ho Chi Minh City’s many parks not only provide important green spaces, they’re also a
  place for people who live in cramped rooms and homes to temporarily get away and revel
  in the space and fresh air. Feel free to ask to join (sometimes for a small fee) groups of
  people dancing or exercising to the beat of a boombox. In the evenings, couples and
  families often have impromptu picnics (although typically on the sidewalks and not on the
  grass which is usually off limits).
  Tao Dan Park
  SHADY, HISTORIC PARK
  One of the city’s most attractive green spaces is 10-hectare Tao Dan Park, its
  bench-lined walks shaded with avenues of towering tropical trees, including
  flame trees and huge Sao Den and So Khi trees. Not only is it considered the
  city’s ‘green lung’ with its gorgeous flower gardens and 1,000 or so trees, the
  park has a long history, originally called ‘Jardin de la ville’ when it was
  established in 1868.
  Aim to visit in the early morning or late afternoon when hundreds of locals
  come to exercise under the shady trees. The park’s 300-sq-metre playground
  also makes it a hit with families. The city’s bird lovers (mainly elderly
  gentlemen) also flock to the cafe just across from the south entrance in the early
  mornings, and sip on Vietnamese coffee while their charges enjoy the fresh air
  and sunshine while learning new songs from each other.
  Other attractions in the park include the Hung King Memorial Temple,
  dedicated to the 18 kings credited with founding the nation of Vietnam, and a
  miniature replica of the Po Klong Garai Cham temple in Phan Rang.
  The park is split down the middle by Ð Truong Dinh. To the northeast of Ð
  Truong Dinh is an outdoor contemporary sculpture garden and the old Cercle
  Sportif, an elite sporting club during the French-colonial period and now the
  Labour Culture Palace with tennis courts, a colonnaded art-deco swimming
  pool and a clubhouse.
  Tao Dan Park | VINH LOC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Reunification Palace
  FORMER HOME OF THE SOUTH VIETNAMESE PRESIDENT
  Surrounded by royal palm trees, the dissonant 1960s architecture of this
  landmark government building (also known as the Independence Palace) and
  the eerie ambience of its deserted halls make it an intriguing spectacle. The first
  Communist tanks to arrive in Saigon rumbled here on 30 April 1975 and it’s as
  if time has stood still since. The building is deeply associated with the fall of the
  city in 1975, yet it’s the kitsch detailing and period motifs that steal the show.
  Designed by Paris-trained Vietnamese architect Ngo Viet Thu, the airy and
  open floor plan is an outstanding example of 1960s architecture. The ground
  floor is arranged with meeting rooms, while upstairs is a grand set of reception
  rooms, used for welcoming foreign and national dignitaries. In the back of the
  structure are the president’s living quarters; check out the model boats, horse
  tails and severed elephants’ feet. The 2nd floor contributes a shagadelic cardplaying
  room, complete with a barrel-shaped bar, hubcap light fixtures and
  three-legged chairs set around a flared-legged card table. There’s also a cinema
  and a rooftop nightclub with the requisite helipad. However, perhaps most
  fascinating of all is the basement with its telecommunications centre, war room
  and warren of tunnels, where hulking old fans chop the air and ancient radio
  transmitters sit impassively. The Reunification Palace is open to visitors as long
  as official receptions or meetings aren’t taking place and there are English- and
  French-speaking guides.
  Bui Vien Walking Street
  BLOCK PARTY VIBES
  The area around Pham Ngu Lao, De Tham and Bui Vien streets has long catered
  to budget-minded travellers with inexpensive guesthouses, cheap international
  eats and shops selling travel essentials. At night, however, Bui Vien (pictured;
  off limits to vehicles on weekend evenings) turns into ‘Beer Street’, a rocking
  street party fueled by alcohol, shisha and nitrous oxide balloons. Go-go dancers,
  street performers and clubs trying to outdo each other with pulsating Vinahouse
  beats draw in the tourists and young Vietnamese looking to party. To view the
  festivities from afar, the 9th-floor View Rooftop Bar has well-priced drinks and
  meals.
  HECKE61/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  War Remnants Museum
  SOBERING LOOK AT THE AMERICAN WAR
  To understand the context of the war with the USA and its devastating impact
  on Vietnamese civilians, this remarkable, museum is an essential visit. Many
  atrocities documented here were well publicised, but rarely do Westerners hear
  the victims of military action tell their own stories. While some displays are
  one-sided, many of the most disturbing photographs illustrating atrocities are
  from US sources, including those from the My Lai massacre. US armoured
  vehicles, artillery pieces, bombs and infantry weapons are on display outside
  while one corner of the grounds is devoted to the notorious French and South
  Vietnamese prisons on Phu Quoc and Con Son islands.
  MARKET MATTERS
  With daily income fluctuating as if on a whim, it’s no wonder sellers are generally a
  superstitious group, looking for lucky signs and bad omens. There’s a small temple hidden
  up a rickety set of stairs near the entrance where sellers can go to offer prayers to the
  guardian god. Merchants usually believe that if the first transaction of the day is profitable,
  it will mean a good day’s business is to follow so avoid early morning haggling or asking
  prices without the intention of buying.
  Ben Thanh Market
  SAIGON’S MOST FAMOUS MARKET
  Since it was first opened in 1914 as the ‘Halles Centrale’, Ben Thanh has been
  the city’s best-known market. Today, the image of its south entrance and clock
  tower is synonymous with the city; the market together with its surrounding
  streets comprise one of HCMC’s liveliest areas. Everything that’s commonly
  eaten, worn or used by the Saigonese is piled high, and souvenirs can be found
  in abundance. It’s said that if you can’t find it in Ben Thanh, you probably don’t
  need it.
  For visitors, in addition to T-shirts and handicrafts, dried goods make good
  gifts, including nuts, dried fruit and spices. Vendors manning the 1500 or so
  stalls spread over 13,000 sq metres are determined and prices for tourist goods
  are usually three to four times higher than elsewhere, so vigorous bargaining is
  a must.
  The outer ring has many ‘fixed price’ clothing and souvenir shops. Even at
  these, it’s worth a try at bargaining, especially if buying multiple items. While
  many may view the market as a tourist trap, in reality, it offers some of the
  city’s best-quality ingredients as evidenced by the fresh produce, flowers and
  freshly butchered meat (known in Vietnamese as ‘hot meat’). Once the indoor
  market closes, a small night market with lots of food options takes over until
  midnight.
  Ben Thanh Market | JARVA JAR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  WHY I LOVE DISTRICT 3
  James Pham, co-author Lonely Planet Vietnam
  A favourite Vietnamese pastime is simply driving around, escaping cramped quarters at
  home and feeling the breeze through your (helmeted) hair. District 3 is one of my favourite
  places to cruise, with its wide thoroughfares lined by majestic century-old trees and its
  many cafes and restaurants housed in repurposed French-era homes. Rent is significantly
  cheaper here compared to downtown which is why there are always new restaurants
  popping up. But perhaps above all, I love this neighbourhood for its many green spaces. In
  a world of motorbikes and urban concrete, it’s a tonic to escape to the cool shade of the
  parks and just people-watch with an icy sugar cane drink in hand.
  MORE AROUND THE REUNIFICATION PALACE
  Food Streets & Good Eats
  EATING WELL IN DISTRICT 3
  District 3 is known for its dizzying array of dining options, including several
  foodie streets. For cheap but good eats, head to the area around Ban Co Market
  (Pho Am Thuc Cho Ban Co) where sizzling crepes stuffed with pork and
  shrimp, steamed shrimp dumplings and grilled corn slathered in scallion oil
  await. Seafood lovers should make a beeline to đ Nguyen Thuong Hien, just
  north of đ Nguyen Thi Minh Khai. This short stretch of street is packed with
  eateries selling fresh seafood cooked to order. To make the most of your foodie
  experience, consider a tour with Saigon Street Eats visiting some of the city’s
  very local food streets with how-to tips as well as deep dives into the stories
  behind some of these amazing dishes. On the other end of the food scale, the
  high tea at the Hôtel des Arts Saigon is one of the best in town in a gorgeous
  Indochine-inspired setting complete with live piano music and priceless works
  of art. Stay until sunset and head up to the rooftop Social Club for sweeping
  views of the city from 23 storeys up. To recreate Vietnamese flavours at home,
  the Provincial Table Cooking Class does market tours followed by fun
  cooking classes in its quaint space just a stone’s throw from Ben Thanh Market.
  Vietnamese fried crepe with pork and shrimp | MUK PHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  WHERE TO STAY AROUND THE REUNIFICATION PALACE
  Sila Living
  Stylish and chic, this classy hotel has huge rooms and a prime location, plus swimming pool
  and gym. $$$
  Mai House Saigon
  Indochina chic meets modern amenities at this design-forward hotel with a sparkling 5th-floor
  pool. $$$
  Chez Mimosa Local Alley
  Right in the backpacker area, this quaint hotel includes free laundry and a farewell foot soak.
  $$
  CHOLON
  THE WORLD’S LARGEST CHINATOWN
  Established by Chinese immigrants in the late 18th century as a busy trading
  port 11km from Saigon, Cholon (meaning ‘Big Market’) is now home to as
  many as one million ethnic Chinese people. While the two cities were merged
  into one in 1931, in many ways, a visit here still feels like you’re stepping into
  another world, or at least a version of Saigon as it may have looked 25 years
  ago. There are far fewer high-rise buildings and full-form written Chinese
  characters decorate shopfronts and temples in abundance. Finding a Mandarinspeaker
  isn’t hard, although most Hoa-Kieu (Vietnamese-Chinese) residents
  chat in southern Chinese dialects and speak Vietnamese with an accent, even
  those who were born here. Occupying half of District 5, a trip to Cholon is a
  sensory experience – feasting on dim sum, exploring atmospheric temples, and
  inhaling the fragrant scent of traditional medicinal herbs.
  HIGHLIGHTS
  1 Binh Tay Market
  2 Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda
  SIGHTS
  3 Cha Tam Church
  4 Cholon Jamail Mosque
  5 Khanh Van Nam Vien Pagoda
  6 Ong Bon Pagoda
  7 Quan Am Pagoda
  8 Thien Hau Pagoda
  9 Traditional Herb Shops
  SHOPPING
  10 Soai Kinh Lam Fabric Market
  TOP TIP
  While the colourful, moody temples are the main attractions here, a trip to Cholon is more
  about soaking up the atmosphere and appreciating how different it is from the rest of Ho Chi
  Minh City. A guided tour would be useful in better understanding the history and stories behind
  the culture and buildings.
  Thien Hau Pagoda
  18TH-CENTURY PAGODA DEDICATED TO THE GODDESS OF THE SEA
  One of the city’s oldest pagodas is the 18th-century Thien Hau Pagoda,
  dedicated to the goddess of the sea and revered by merchants, mariners,
  travellers and fisherpeople. Built by immigrants from Guangzhou as a way of
  thanking the goddess for their safe arrival, the pretty pagoda with gorgeous
  ceramics decorating the roofline attracts a mix of worshippers and visitors who
  mingle beneath the large coils of incense suspended overhead. This pagoda is
  especially well-known as a place for women to pray to have children.
  Thien Hau Pagoda | DUC HUY NGUYEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Phuoc An Hoi Quan Pagoda
  ORNATE TAOIST TEMPLE TO CHINESE GENERAL QUAN CONG
  Delightfully fronted by greenery and opening to an interior blaze of red, gold,
  green and yellow, this is one of the most beautifully ornamented temples in
  town (pictured), dating from 1902. Founded to worship the Chinese general
  Quan Cong, look for a life-sized figure of his sacred horse to the left of the
  entrance. Also of special interest are the elaborate brass ritual ornaments and
  weapons, and the fine woodcarvings on the altars, walls, columns, hanging
  lanterns and incense coils. From the exterior, look out for the ceramic scenes,
  each containing innumerable small figurines, that decorate the roof.
  OSCAR ESPINOSA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Khanh Van Nam Vien Pagoda
  VIETNAM’S ONLY DEDICATED TAOIST TEMPLE
  Built between 1939-42, this temple is said to be the only pure Taoist temple in
  Vietnam and is unique for its colourful statues of Taoist disciples. Features to
  seek out include the unique 150cm-high statue of Laotse – the supreme
  philosopher of Taoism and author of the Dao De Jing – located upstairs.
  Laotse’s mirror-edged halo is rather surreal, while off to his left are two stone
  plaques with instructions for Taoist inhalation and exhalation exercises. The
  temple is also known for its charitable activities for the community, including
  operating a nursing home and a medical clinic that provides free medication and
  food. You can leave a donation if you wish.
  Traditional Herb Shops
  DOLING OUT TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE MEDICINE
  While you’re roaming the area, stroll over to the strip of traditional herb shops
  between Ð Luong Nhu Hoc and Ð Trieu Quang Phuc for an olfactory
  experience you won’t soon forget. To try traditional Vietnamese medicine, tell
  the pharmacist what ails you and select from either pre-packaged capsules or let
  the pharmacist put together a custom packet of dried herbs stored in glass jars or
  apothecary drawers. For a deeper dive, head to the Museum of Traditional
  Vietnamese Medicine just 15 minutes north in District 10.
  Museum of Traditional Vietnamese Medicine | GODONGPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Ong Bon Pagoda
  COLOURFUL PAGODA BUILT BY FUJIAN IMMIGRANTS
  This compact yet atmospheric pagoda, also known as the Nhi Phu Temple, is
  crammed with gilded carvings and smoking incense. Built by Chinese
  immigrants from Fujian province as their first assembly hall, it’s dedicated to
  Ong Bon, the guardian who presides over happiness and wealth, and who is
  seated in a gilded cabinet sparkling with LED lights, an intricately carved and
  gilded wooden altar before him. As you leave, note the protective door gods
  painted on the inside of the main door and the ‘Ecole de Foukien’ sign above
  the main entrance of the school next door.
  Ong Bon Pagoda | STEPHANE BIDOUZE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Binh Tay Market
  CHOLON’S LARGEST MARKET
  The original Binh Tay Market was built by the French at a separate location in
  the 1880s but the current market was opened in 1928, funded by Guangdongborn
  businessman and philanthropist Quach Dam. Constructed around a central
  courtyard with gardens, Cholon’s main market primarily does wholesale
  business but it’s worth a visit to see its Chinese architectural elements like the
  two dragons gazing at the moon just above the main entrance and the bronze
  lions and dragons around its central fountain. Very little English is spoken but
  expect a friendly welcome if you have a coffee or a bowl of noodles with the
  market’s food vendors near the rear entrance on the ground floor.
  Quan Am Pagoda
  19TH-CENTURY TEMPLE TO THE GODDESS OF MERCY
  One of Cholon’s most active and colourful temples, this shrine was founded in
  the early 19th century by settlers from China’s Fujian province. It’s named after
  the Goddess of Mercy, whose full name is Quan The Am Bo Tat, literally ‘the
  Bodhisattva Who Listens to the Cries of the World’, in reflection of her
  compassionate mission. Fantastic ceramic scenes decorate the roof, depicting
  figures from traditional Chinese plays and stories. Other unique features of this
  temple are the gold-and-lacquer panels of the entrance doors and ornate pillars
  with dragon motifs.
  Quan Am Pagoda | SIMON VU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Cholon Jamail Mosque
  UNDERSTATED BLUE AN WHITE MOSQUE
  The clean lines and minimal ornamentation of this understated blue and white
  mosque (pictured) contrast starkly with nearby Chinese and Vietnamese
  Buddhist temples. Topped by four minarets, also note the pool for ritual
  ablutions in the courtyard and the tiled mihrab (niche) in the wall of the prayer
  hall, indicating the direction of Mecca. This mosque was built by Tamil
  Muslims in 1935 but since 1975 it has served the Malaysian and Indonesian
  Muslim communities.
  GODONGPHOTO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Cha Tam Church
  GOTHIC-STYLE CHURCH DEDICATED TO ST FRANCIS XAVIER
  Inaugurated in 1902, the light-caramel-painted St Francis Xavier Church is
  named after François Xavier Tam Assou (1855–1934), a Chinese-born vicar
  apostolic (delegate of the pope) of Saigon. However, it’s better known by locals
  as the Cha Tam (Father Tam) Church after its beloved first priest. The Gothicstyle
  church incorporates Asian decorative elements, including Chinese
  characters both inside and out. History buffs will know the church as the site
  where President Ngo Dinh Diem was seized after taking refuge with his brother
  Ngo Dinh Nhu on 2 November 1963, after fleeing the Presidential Palace. A
  pew in the rear of the church is marked with a small plaque identifying the spot
  where they sat praying.
  CHOLON PHOTOGRAPHY TIPS
  Arnaud Foucard, Vietnam-based French photographer and owner of Vietnam Photo
  Adventures, shares his top tips for photographing Cholon. @arnaudfoucard
  Get High
  Head up stairwells to capture markets from above, looking for interesting scenes between
  the colourful umbrellas. Round pots and plates offer a pleasing contrast.
  Temple Tips
  The incense smoke makes for moody images. Find a quiet corner to photography people
  praying without disturbing them.
  Alleyway Antics
  Entrances to alleyways often have basic coffee spots with texture and character. They’re a
  wonderful place to play with the light settings on your camera.
  Patience is Key
  Wait patiently for your golden shot of someone walking through the market in a conical hat
  or up an atmospheric stairwell.
  MORE IN CHOLON
  Food, Photography & Fun
  GETTING UNDER THE SKIN OF CHOLON
  Get a different perspective of Cholon on a photography walk with Vietnam
  Photo Adventures, ducking into alleyways, climbing apartment stairways, and
  exploring moody pagodas. Learn how to approach people, adjust your
  positioning for better composition, and frame the perfect shot all while seeing a
  more local, infinitely less-touristy side of Cholon.
  If you’re more of a DIY explorer, pick up a copy of the excellent Exploring
  Saigon-Cho Lon book by local historian Tim Doling. The wonderfully
  researched tome outlines three walking tours of Cholon (along with a host of
  others for different parts of the city and beyond) for those who enjoy strolling at
  their own pace with time to appreciate the details and stories behind a place.
  Part of Cholon’s charm is its many fascinating markets. Some span city
  blocks while others are made up of a cluster of shops selling similar items all in
  a row. The Soai Kinh Lam fabric market offers a bewildering selection of
  textiles, especially worthwhile if you plan on having clothes tailored in
  Vietnam.
  Completely female-run, XO Tours takes visitors on motorbike foodie tours
  through Cholon and other less-touristed districts. The one-to-one ratio translates
  to superb customer service and safe, seamlessly run tours that combine social
  commentary with lesser-known Vietnamese dishes.
  Cholon | DAVID BBOKUCHAVA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  WHERE TO EAT IN CHOLON
  Mi Keo Kungfu Khai Ky
  Watch as fresh noodles get hand pulled for a delectable dumpling soup. $$
  An Duyen Cho Lon
  An extensive menu, reasonable prices and cute shophouse vibe make this restaurant very
  popular on weekends. $$
  Ha Cao Kieu Ky
  This stall in Thu Do Market sells seven flavours of steamed dumplings for an inexpensive meal.
  $
  DA KAO & AROUND
  LEAFY WITH UNDERSTATED CHARM
  It’s an issue of debate how the neighbourhood known as Da Kao got its name as
  it’s definitely not a Vietnamese word. Most historians tend to agree that it’s a
  French bastardisation of ‘Dat Ho’, possibly meaning an administrative region or
  a protective wall in the days of the old citadel. Whatever its origin, however,
  this old District 1 ward, directly north of the city centre, is distinctly different
  from the gleaming towers and in-your-face displays of wealth you’ll find
  downtown. Instead, Da Kao is mostly low buildings and tree-lined streets, home
  to many of the consulates and some beautiful buildings dating from the Frenchcolonial
  period. Hidden within its historic streets (and those bordering it in the
  eastern corner of District 3) is a thriving restaurant and bar scene, along with
  some of the city’s best traditional eateries.
  TOP TIP
  The sights in Da Kao are spread out, requiring short taxi rides in between. If you enjoy walking,
  the Nhieu Loc-Thi Nghe Canal on Da Kao’s northern border is lined by an 8km footpath that
  sees lots of locals out exercising, with tons of cute cafes and small eateries along the way.
  Jade Emperor Pagoda
  ATMOSPHERIC TAOIST AND BUDDHIST TEMPLE
  Built in 1909 in honour of the supreme Taoist god (the Jade Emperor or King of
  Heaven, Ngoc Hoang), this is one of the most atmospheric temples in Ho Chi
  Minh City. Its roof is encrusted with elaborate tile work, and the temple’s
  statues, depicting characters from both Buddhist and Taoist lore, are made from
  reinforced papier-mâché. Inside the main building are two especially fierce and
  menacing Taoist figures. On the right (as you face the altar) is a 4m-high statue
  of the general who defeated the Green Dragon (depicted underfoot). On the left
  is the general who defeated the White Tiger, which is also being stepped on.
  Worshippers mass before the ineffable Jade Emperor who presides over the
  main sanctuary. Other shrines of note include the one to Than Hoang, the Chief
  of Hell. Carved panels depict various punishments awaiting sinners in the
  afterlife. The shrine dedicated to the goddess Kim Hue Nuong Nuong,
  surrounded by midwives and children, is especially popular with women who
  want to conceive.
  History Museum of Ho Chi Minh City
  VIETNAM’S HISTORY IN 365 STEPS
  Built in 1929, this notable Sino-French museum houses a rewarding collection
  of artefacts illustrating the evolution of the cultures of Vietnam, from the
  prehistoric period on to the Bronze Age Dong Son civilisation (which emerged
  in 2000 BCE) and the Funan civilisation (1st to 6th centuries CE) to the Cham,
  Khmer and Vietnamese. Highlights include valuable relics taken from
  Cambodia’s Angkor Wat and a fine collection of Buddha statues. Don’t miss the
  excellent collection of Hindu- and Buddhist-inspired sculptures from the
  Champa culture, an Indianised kingdom that ruled over parts of south-central
  Vietnam. The museum is adjacent to the lush Botanic Gardens, although the
  accompanying zoo’s enclosures may be upsetting to some.
  History Museum of Ho Chi Minh City | DUC HUY NGUYEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  MORE AROUND DA KAO
  Local Eats to Cutting-edge Cuisine
  EATING WELL AT ANY PRICE
  With just 40 seats in an industrial-chic space, dining at Restaurant Esta will be
  one of your most memorable dining experiences in Ho Chi Minh City,
  especially if you book a seat at the chef’s counter for close-up views of the
  gleaming show kitchen. The incredibly creative product-driven menus change
  weekly, but one constant is that every perfectly presented dish touches a flame
  at some point. It’s modernist cuisine at its best, with touches of Vietnamese
  flavours from local products. For a feast of local eats at wallet-friendly prices,
  it’s hard to go wrong at Van Kiep, a street lined with dozens of restaurants and
  food stalls. Some are one-dish wonders serving just steamed dumplings or crab
  noodle soup while others are cafeteria-style; just point to what you want and
  tuck in.
  DINING FOR A CAUSE
  In Vietnam, families of people with disabilities often tend to protect them from society by
  hiding them away without the chance to create a life for themselves. At the Asian fusion
  Blanc. Restaurant, diners use a Ho Chi Minh City Sign Language booklet to order and
  interact with deaf and hearing-impaired staff in a meaningful way. Next door, Noir invites
  guests to dine completely in the dark, served by blind or visually impaired staff. Choose a
  multicourse set menu and use all your other senses to try and guess what each dish is.
  Down the lane is Noir Spa, a stylish space with massages performed by visually impaired
  therapists with the lights on or off.
  Culture Vultures
  MUSEUMS FOR THE WHOLE FAMILY
  The Southern Vietnamese Women’s Museum may seem niche, but the
  displays on farming, home life and traditional trades are fascinating. The exhibit
  on the evolution of the ao dai tunic dress through the ages is particularly
  interesting, especially if you aren’t able to get to the Ao Dai Museum in District

1. After a trip to the zoo, stop in at the adjacent History Museum of Ho Chi
   Minh City for the weekend water puppet show. An art form originating in the
   Red River Delta, puppeteers stand waist-deep in water behind a curtain,
   manipulating the puppets as they seem to dance over the water.
   WHERE TO EAT IN DA KAO
   Pho Chao
   Tiny restaurant serving the city’s only pho-tine – crispy fries topped with cheddar cheese and
   pho gravy. $
   Quan Thuy 94
   Crab prepared every which way but the best may be the deep-fried soft-shell crabs. $$
   Du Du Xanh
   Stylish, reasonably priced vegetarian fare that even non-vegetarians will love, all in a chic
   French-era house. $$
   DISTRICT 2
   EASY EXPAT LIVING
   What started off as swampland east of downtown Saigon has now become the
   city’s most gentrified expat enclave with huge villas in gated compounds,
   towering high-rise apartment buildings, trendy malls and a plethora of
   international schools. In early 2021, District 2 officially became part of a city
   within a city, but when people talk about going to District 2, they’re usually
   referring to the ward of Thao Dien, where most of the restaurants, bars and
   boutiques are conveniently clustered close together. Together with District 7,
   this is where most expats choose to live, making it worth the taxi ride over the
   Saigon Bridge, especially if considering a possible move to Ho Chi Minh City
   or for alternative riverside accommodation, particularly for those who have
   already seen most of the sights of downtown. Above all, District 2 is about
   living the good life, eating and drinking at some of the city’s best spots.
   TOP TIP
   A relaxing day in D2 is a nice way to break up your trip. A few of the restaurants have a pool and
   some hotels do day passes, so a swim and lunch make for a lovely morning. Most of the
   restaurants are around đ Thao Dien with short taxi rides needed for other neighbourhoods.
   The Deck
   UPSCALE RIVERSIDE DINING
   A long-time favourite among the expat community and well-heeled locals for its
   modern, seafood-forward, Pan-Asian cuisine and prime riverside location, a
   leisurely meal at the Deck (pictured) is the quintessential D2 experience. Book a
   seat by the river or make yourself comfortable inside with its beach chic vibe
   and floor-to-ceiling doors thrown open to the river breezes. After dinner, head
   to the adjoining Deck Bar for cocktails. To complete the experience, arrange for
   a speedboat pick-up from downtown to be dropped off right at the steps of the
   restaurant.
   District 2 | NDQ/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
   Saigon Outcast
   EVENT VENUE WITH ADVENTURE SPORTS
   A D2 fixture for more than 10 years, this family-friendly space does events like
   no other. The free skatepark draws in the kids while the 15m-high climbing
   wall, Saigon’s tallest, is run by Push Climbing with courses, equipment and
   other activities on offer. A range of climbing routes caters to everyone from
   beginners to experts. Afterwards, chill out with one of 13 craft beers on tap and
   some Western comfort food. Events draw up to 1,000 people, ranging from flea
   markets and food festivals to house parties and movie nights. Check its
   Facebook for the complete schedule.
   QUANG NGUYEN VINH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
   Minh Dang Quang Buddhist Institute
   PEACEFUL BUDDHIST COMPLEX
   Saigon’s largest Buddhist complex, Phap Vien Minh Dang Quang is named
   after the founder of the Mendicant Buddhist Order (Tang Gia Khat Si), one of
   the largest Buddhist sects in southern Vietnam. The sect is known for opening
   up the monastic vocation to women, and for strict practices for its monks and
   nuns. Established in 1968 and expanded in 2009, the complex is striking for its
   four towers surrounding a central courtyard. The eight-sided roofs recall the
   Noble Eightfold Path while the three-storey main hall houses statues of various
   Buddhas, including the female Quan Am (the bodhisattva of compassion), as
   well as spaces for teaching and meditation. All classes are in Vietnamese,
   however, there are English-speaking monks on site.
   BEST HANGOUT SPOTS
   Soma Saigon
   A great spot to chill with an excellent Asian fusion brunch/lunch menu featuring clean,
   healthy eating. Evenings often host events including comedy shows, live music and
   themed nights. $$
   L’Herbanyste
   Come relax by the backyard pool while noshing on creative vegan, vegetarian or glutenfree
   fare. The kitchen makes its own cashew cheese, pesto and kombucha and there is a
   sound healing space upstairs. $$
   Snap Cafe
   A three-in-one cafe offering gourmet Western, Thai and Mexican favourites, family-friendly
   Snap Cafe also has a shady, sandy playground tucked in the back. $$
   Ralf’s Gelato
   The gelato and sorbets here are handmade daily in small batches from premium
   ingredients and a tonic against sweltering Saigon days. $$
   MORE IN DISTRICT 2
   Vietnamese Eateries with a Twist
   MEALS WORTH THE TRIP OVER
   One of the main reasons to come to District 2 is to eat and drink well. While
   there is an overwhelming number of great restaurants, these are doing
   Vietnamese flavours with an innovative twist.
   Set in what feels like an elegant turn-of-the-century house with exposed
   beams, wooden pillars and a clay tile roof, Madame Lam does Vietnamese
   with a Vietnamese twist. Chef-owner Cuong’s passion for authentic Vietnamese
   cuisine shines, making serendipitous tweaks to familiar dishes like using whole
   soft-shelled crab in the fried spring rolls and adding chunks of mango to wokfried
   beef. This is innovative Vietnamese at its best.
   For a healthier version of modern Vietnamese cuisine, featuring less sugar
   and salt, and no MSG, Laang Restaurant serves up an extensive menu,
   including a wide selection of vegetarian dishes, all in a delightfully colourful
   vintage-inspired space. The pomelo salad with grilled prawns is a favourite, as
   is the tender grilled ribs marinated with five spices.
   For Vietnamese with a Latin twist, Kitchen by the River makes for a
   relaxing meal. Find a seat under the covered terrace with great views of the
   Saigon River, or sit inside the casual chic dining room and feast on elevated
   comfort food showcasing premium local ingredients like strawberries and
   organic greens from Dalat. For even better views, head up to The Muse –
   Cocktail & Tapas Bar and sip on cocktails while admiring sweeping views of
   the river.
   Apartment complex, District 2 | SOFIE FRYDENLUND/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
   WHERE TO STAY IN DISTRICT 2
   Mia Saigon
   Splurge on this luxe art-themed retreat by the Saigon River featuring priceless artworks and a
   gorgeous riverside pool. $$$
   Villa Song
   Riverside boutique hotel with a sparkling saltwater pool and a lovely bistro with live acoustic
   music. $$$
   La Casita
   Ten quiet rooms around a central swimming pool, surrounded by some of the area’s best eats.
   $$$
   AROUND HO CHI MINH CITY
   HISTORY AND NATURE DAY TRIPS
   If spending more than a couple of days in Ho Chi Minh City, perhaps a day trip
   is in order. Trade city for country and head southeast to Can Gio, one of
   Vietnam’s 11 Unesco-listed biosphere reserves. Especially if travelling by boat,
   see the urban sprawl give way to banana trees and stilt houses. If travelling by
   road, stop at local markets where people have yet to be jaded by the presence of
   tour groups. For culture and history, head northwest to Cu Chi and the city of
   Tay Ninh. A visit here provides insight into how the Vietnamese emerged
   victorious against a world superpower while offering a sobering reminder how
   brutal war is. Continue on to Tay Ninh to visit the colourful Holy See of the
   home-grown Cao Dai religion, a rococo extravaganza blending the dissonant
   architectural motifs of a French church, a Chinese temple and an Islamic
   mosque.
   TOP TIP
   Meals of local specialties add authenticity to day trips so search out dishes like boiled pork
   wrapped in dew-wetted rice paper when in Tay Ninh, clams, prawns and nipa palms (mangrove
   palms) in Can Gio, and grilled veal served with wild herbs in Cu Chi washed down with a glass
   of sugar cane with durian.
   GETTING TO CU CHI
   It’s possible to get to both sites by public bus, from the Ben Thanh, An Suong or Cholon
   bus stations. All require one transfer and the entrance ticket includes an on-site guide who
   can give brief explanations as well as lead visitors into the tunnels with a flashlight. Tour
   operators also offer inexpensive transportation plus guide packages while Les Rives does
   luxe speedboat tours shaving some time off the normal 90-minute journey. Not having to
   deal with traffic and enjoying cool river breezes is a tonic.
   Cu Chi Tunnels
   EXTENSIVE NETWORK OF WAR-ERA TUNNELS
   Originally built by the Viet Minh in the red earth (soft during the rainy season,
   rock-hard during dry months) of Cu Chi during the war against the French, the
   tunnel network of Cu Chi became legendary during the 1960s for facilitating
   VC control of a large rural area only 30km to 40km from HCMC. At its peak,
   the tunnel system stretched from the South Vietnamese capital to the
   Cambodian border; in the district of Cu Chi alone more than 250km of tunnels
   honeycomb the ground. The network, parts of which were several storeys deep,
   included countless trapdoors, constructed living areas, storage facilities, weapon
   factories, field hospitals, command centres and kitchens. Above-ground
   recreations and maps help tell the story.
   Two sections of this remarkable tunnel network (which are enlarged and
   upgraded versions of the real thing) are open to the public. One is near the
   village of Ben Dinh and the other is 15km beyond at Ben Duoc. Most tour
   groups end up at Ben Dinh, as it’s closer and the sights are more compactly
   arranged. Many Vietnamese visitors prefer the Ben Duoc site as there are more
   tunnels to explore as well as an artificial lake with swan boats and fishing and
   the massive Ben Duoc temple, flanked by a nine-storey tower and a flower
   garden at the front.
   However, the general experience at both is similar, and even if you stay
   above ground, it’s still an interesting experience learning about the region’s
   ingenious and brave resistance activities.
   Ben Douc tunnels | DAN HANSCOM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
   Nui Ba Den
   PILGRIMAGE SITE ON BLACK LADY MOUNTAIN
   Located 15km northeast of Tay Ninh, Nui Ba Den (Black Lady Mountain)
   towers 850m above the surrounding countryside, earning it the moniker of ‘the
   roof of southeast Vietnam’. Over the centuries it has served as a shrine for
   Khmer, Cham, Vietnamese and Chinese communities, and there are several
   interesting cave temples here. Skip the 1,500 steps and take the 5-minute cable
   car to the religious complex, or opt for the more scenic Van Son route to the
   very top of the mountain. Because the sights in Tay Ninh are spread apart, it’s
   most often visited on a day trip in conjunction with the Cu Chi Tunnels.
   Can Gio | QUANG NGUYEN VINH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
   Can Gio
   UNESCO-RECOGNISED BIOSPHERE RESERVE
   Known as the ‘green lungs’ of Ho Chi Minh City, the Can Gio Mangrove
   Biosphere Reserve is located some 60km southeast of the city. The 75,740-
   hectare reserve boasts diverse habitats including mangroves, mud flats,
   wetlands, salt marshes and sea grasses, home to a variety of mangrove plant
   species, mangrove-dwelling invertebrates, as well as fish and birdlife.
   Can Gio has two notable areas to visit. War buffs can head to the Rung Sac
   Guerrilla Base, a 541-hectare park with reconstructed facilities to illustrate what
   jungle warfare was like when revolutionary forces made this area their base
   during the wars against the French and Americans over the last two centuries.
   Boating and trekking through the mangroves are also available. For a more
   nature-focused experience, the Vam Sat Eco-Park has a Bat Lagoon where
   canoes take visitors on quiet rides to spot flying foxes high up in the trees.
   There’s also a 26m-high bird-watching tower to get an overview of the forest as
   well as the more than 20,000 birds from 26 species that gather here. Bird
   enthusiasts know to come between April and October, during nesting season.
   Cao Dai Holy See
   FANTASTICALLY COLOURFUL CAO DAI TEMPLE
   Founded by the mystic Ngo Minh Chieu in 1926, Cao Daism is a syncretic
   religion that embraces disparate elements of Buddhism, Confucianism, Taoism,
   native Vietnamese spiritualism, Christianity and Islam – with a dash of secular
   enlightenment thrown in for good measure. The term Cao Dai is a euphemism
   for God. Vietnam has an estimated four to six million followers of Cao Daism.
   This thought-provoking religion fusing East and West has a main temple
   known as the Cao Dai Holy See, located 4km east of Tay Ninh in the village of
   Long Hoa. Described by novelist Graham Green as ‘Christ and Buddha looking
   down from the roof of the cathedral on a Walt Disney fantasia of the East,
   dragons and snakes in Technicolor’, highlights of the main hall include eight
   plaster columns entwined with multicoloured dragons supporting a dome
   representing the heavens, under which is a giant star-speckled blue globe with
   the ‘divine eye’ on it. Head to the rear upstairs balcony for the best views,
   especially during prayer sessions.
   MEKONG DELTA
   CULTURE, COMMERCE AND ISLAND
   ESCAPES
   Surging downstream from Tibet, Southeast Asia’s mightiest waterway
   finally greets the ocean amid a sprawling and fascinating region at the
   centre of Vietnam’s agricultural success.
   Floating Market, Can Tho | FILMLANDSCAPE/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
   Carpeted in glowing emerald hues and diffuse olive shades often softened by
   tropical rain, the Mekong Delta is Vietnam’s ‘rice bowl’ (pictured) and farming
   heartland. Traditionally, the region’s trade in fruit, vegetables and other produce
   has been facilitated on the water, moving along the mighty Mekong and its
   manifold tributaries, a fascinating landscape where boats, houses and markets
   all float upon rivers, canals and backwaters criss-crossing the landscape like
   arteries.
   Spectacular suspension bridges are now seeking to reshape the Delta’s
   heritage of waterborne commerce, making it easier to transport goods to market
   by road, but a languid, almost-soporific pace of life still lingers in the
   countryside. Here, buffalo wallow in rice paddies, coconut- and fruit-laden
   boats float slowly along mud-brown waters, and two-wheeled exploration of the
   Delta’s narrow lanes and canal-side backroads is consistently rewarded with
   authentic rural hospitality. Travelling on two wheels, either by motorbike or
   bicycle, travellers have the opportunity to slow down to well-established natural
   rhythms, and there’s often the promise of a family-owned homestay at the end
   of a day’s exploring.
   Elsewhere in this fascinating and diverse region, you’ll find that mangrove
   forests teem with bird life and bristle with the remains of Viet Cong bunkers,
   ornate Khmer pagodas and Buddhist temples surge skywards, and offshore
   islands offer white-sand beaches, hillside hiking trails leading to isolated coves,
   and the spectacular architectural transition of Vietnam’s largest island.
   NGUYEN QUANG NGOC TONKIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
   THE MAIN AREAS
   BEN TRE
   Coconut country amid quiet backwaters.
   VINH LONG
   Gateway to island homestays.
   CAO LANH
   Forests, history and birdlife.
   CAN THO
   Floating markets and big city energy.
   CON DAO ISLANDS
   Tropical idyll meets a tragic history.
   CHAU DOC
   Hilltop pagodas and a surprising sanctuary.
   HA TIEN
   Relaxed island and cross-border gateway.
   PHU QUOC ISLAND
   Exciting energy and impetuous development.
   Find Your Way
   Spanning more than 40,000 sq km and covering 12% of the country, the
   sprawling Mekong Delta is a highly productive agricultural region framed
   by the Gulf of Thailand and the South China Sea (East Sea).
   Plan Your Days
   On the water experiences are at the heart of exploring the Mekong
   Delta. incorporating traditional floating markets, historic memories of the
   American War and a spectacular bird sanctuary.
   Flooded lotus fields, Mekong Delta | INDOCHINASTUDIO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
   If You Only Do One Thing

• Base yourself in Chau Doc, exploring the river by boat and cruising up the Vinh Te
  canal at dusk. Jump on a motorcycle taxi to Nui Sam (Sam Mountain) to walk through a
  labyrinth of cave temples, and take in expansive views across the border to Cambodia. A
  final essential day trip from Chau Doc is to the Tra Su Cajuput Forest, also best
  approached on two wheels via rural backroads. Birds including egrets, herons and
  kingfishers can all be spotted during a relaxing boat trip through Tra Su’s verdant
  riverscape, or while negotiating a network of wooden bridges and walkways.
  Four Days to Experience the Mekong Delta
• Combine Chau Doc with a visit to Can Tho, three hours by car to the southeast. The
  Delta’s biggest city offers urban energy, especially along Can Tho’s riverfront, and on-thewater
  experiences include awakening early to travel amid an indigo dawn, floating
  markets, or crossing by ferry for an afternoon exploring the fish farms and sustainable
  agriculture of Son Inlet. Be sure to experience Can Tho’s excellent street food scene,
  centred on Đ De Tham and the city’s night market. Destinations for evening drinks include
  cosmopolitan cocktail and craft-beer bars, or the heritage bar at the Victoria Can Tho
  Resort.
  If You Have More Time
• Bookended by Chau Doc and Can Tho, also spend time on An Binh island near Vinh
  Long. Family-owned homestays are an ideal base for relaxed cycling and laid-back boat
  trips, and the former Viet Cong stronghold of the Xeo Quyt Forest can be visited from the
  nearby city of Cao Lanh. The provinces of Tra Vinh and Soc Trang are both imbued with
  traditional Khmer culture, while the remote archipelago of the Con Dao Islands is easily
  reached from either Can Tho or Soc Trang. Con Dao’s tragic past as an island prison is
  now balanced by excellent hiking and diving.
  SEASONAL HIGHLIGHTS
  The Mekong Delta is best enjoyed during the dry season (Oct-Apr) to
  avoid seasonal flooding during the rainy season (May-Sept)
  JANUARY
  Escape cooler weather in northern Vietnam, and enjoy warm and dry
  days on Phu Quoc and the Con Dao Islands.
  evgeny drablenkov/shutterstock ©
  MARCH
  Look forward to sunny days before the rainy season, and a relaxed vibe
  after the celebratory mayhem and madness of Tet.
  muto koji/shutterstock ©
  APRIL
  Based on the historic Khmer calendar, Khmer communities in Soc
  Trang and Tra Vinh celebrate Chol Chnam Thmay, the Khmer New
  Year.
  lochuynh/shutterstock ©
  JULY
  Fruit including durian, mangosteen, longan, mango and rambutan are
  plentiful. You’ll probably be dodging an afternoon shower, but it’ll be
  worth it.
  vn stock/shutterstock ©
  OCTOBER
  Following the rainy season, water levels are at their highest and
  vegetation is at its most vibrant in the Tra Su Cajuput Forest.
  jidowin/shutterstock ©
  NOVEMBER
  Settled weather following the rainy season, and longboat races in Tra
  Vinh and Soc Trang for the Khmer Oc Om Boc festival.
  vivanvu/shutterstock ©
  DECEMBER
  Also good for visiting Tra Su. Lower water levels, but chicks are
  hatching and there’s a bigger migratory bird population.
  ikonya/shutterstock ©
  BEN TRE
  For the independent traveller, Ben Tre is the ideal introduction to the Mekong
  Delta, offering excellent boutique accommodation in private, riverside
  locations, easy bus access from HCMC, and the opportunity to explore local
  cottage industries still relatively off the mainstream tourist trail. The town’s
  sleepy waterfront, lined with ageing French colonial villas, is pleasant to
  explore on foot, and the riverside promenade, relaxed hamlets across the Ben
  Tre Bridge, and narrow lanes on both sides of the river are also ideal for twowheeled
  exploration.
  The Ben Tre area is famous for its keo dua (coconut candy). Many local
  women work in small factories making these sweets, spending their days
  boiling cauldrons of the sticky coconut goo before rolling it out and slicing
  sections into squares. For good reason, Ben Tre’s sweetest and stickiest treat is
  famous all around Vietnam.
  TOP TIP
  Ben Tre’s best accommodation is located amid private riverside locations, and resorts and
  hotels can arrange transport into Ben Tre City (around 15 minutes). Highlights best explored
  on foot include Ben Tre’s riverfront and the nearby central market. A few blocks away, good
  cafes and restaurants frame compact Truc Giang lake.
  WHERE TO STAY AROUND BEN TRE
  Mango Home Riverside
  Boutique bungalows set in a riverside coconut and mango grove with a swimming pool and
  a restaurant. $$
  Island Lodge
  Tranquil and secluded designer accommodation on a Mekong River island between Ben
  Tre and My Tho. $$
  Mekong Home
  Private riverside accommodation, a swimming pool and excellent food southeast of Ben
  Tre city. $$
  Land of the Coconut
  EXPLORING BY BOAT AND BICYCLE
  A stroll along Ben Tre’s riverfront is best undertaken during the cool of
  morning or at dusk. After snacking at Ben Tre market, detour to TAKA Coffee
  An Hoi for a refreshing iced coffee before checking out a duo of historical
  buildings. A Catholic church has been located nearby since 1889, while the
  current structure for Ben Tre Cathedral was completed from 1949 to 1955.
  Around 300m along the river towards the market, Ben Tre’s Provincial
  Museum is housed in a splendid French colonial building. A well-curated
  collection focuses on the area’s legacy as an important part of the resistance
  against French occupation and the American War.
  Crossing the soaring suspension bridges linking Ben Tre province north and
  south to other parts of the Mekong Delta, it’s easy to understand why Ben Tre is
  dubbed the Land of the Coconut. Riverbanks are blanketed with countless
  hectares of coconut trees, and a tour exploring around Ben Tre by boat and
  bicycle shows how integral the versatile plant is to the local economy. Half-day
  experiences with Mango Cruises explore less visited backroads, quiet canals
  and even smaller forest-shrouded backwaters to learn about the many ways the
  humble coconut is harnessed in the province. Tours focus on Giong Trom and
  Phong Nam, two Ben Tre districts less often visited by tourists.
  Coconut candy making | MICHAEL HABANA CORONEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  GETTING AROUND
  The Minh Tam bus company leaving from District 5 in HCMC is the most straightforward
  way to reach Ben Tre. Ask accommodation about convenient onward shuttles departing
  Minh Tam’s Ben Tre depot for transfer to near where you are staying. Ben Tre’s bus station
  is 5km north of town, but for transport to main Mekong Delta cities like Can Tho or Chau
  Doc, it’s faster to catch a taxi or motorbike to FUTA’s office 8km northwest of central My
  Tho and pick up a through bus there. For transport back to riverside accommodation after
  exploring Ben Tre and My Tho, the Grab app for car and motorbike taxis is available in both
  cities.
  Beyond Ben Tre
  Head north to My Tho’s commercial riverine labyrinth or south to Tra
  Vinh’s ongoing and historic legacy of Khmer culture.
  As a popular hub for Mekong Delta day trips from HCMC, My Tho is often
  seen in passing by travellers, but it’s also a worthwhile destination when staying
  at characterful riverside accommodation around Ben Tre. Stroll the My Tho
  riverfront, admire Buddhist and Cao Dai temples, or join a boat trip plotting a
  relaxed pathway through the region’s labyrinth of small-scale industries. South
  of Ben Tre, Tra Vinh is imbued with traditional Khmer culture, a legacy of
  when this part of Vietnam was controlled by Cambodia until the 18th century.
  In both cities, popular local dishes are essential to try: hu tieu in My Tho and
  bun nuoc leo in Tra Vinh.
  Vinh Tranh Pagoda | BALATE DORIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  TOP TIP
  Stay overnight in Tra Vinh to experience the town’s Khmer temples at both dusk and dawn.
  WORLD FAMOUS IN MY THO
  You’ll see hu tieu (vermicelli with a pork-based broth) all around the Mekong Delta, but My
  Tho is known as the traditional home of the dish. Copiously garnished with fresh and dried
  seafood, pork, chicken, offal and fragrant herbs, it can also be served as a dry version
  (without broth), or as a vegetarian dish. Try the original – packed with several different
  proteins – at Hu Tieu 44, or order it meat-free at Hu Tieu Chay Cay BoDe. Both start
  serving at around 8am and go through to 9pm. Chay Cay Bo De also serves vegetarian
  spring rolls and banh xeo (savoury pancakes).
  A Gateway to the Delta
  DISCOVERING TRADITIONAL COTTAGE INDUSTRIES
  My Tho’s proximity to HCMC means it’s a popular day-trip destination for a
  taste of life and commerce in the Mekong Delta. Departing from the centrally
  located My Tho Tourist Boat Station, local tour companies negotiate
  neighbouring islands and a maze of small canals to explore a diverse range of
  cottage industries. Destinations offered by companies based at the boat station
  usually include a coconut-candy workshop, a honey farm – the banana wine is
  good – and an orchid garden. Prices are cheaper if you join a group, although
  going it alone on a more flexible itinerary can focus more on what you’re really
  interested in.
  Get an early start when visiting My Tho from Ben Tre – around 20 minutes
  by bus or taxi – as a few other other sights are worth including while you’re in
  town. Lined with cafes, the riverfront is a pleasant place to stroll, while two
  religious sites reinforce the area’s spiritual diversity. At Vinh Trang Pagoda
  around 1km east of the city centre, giant Buddha statues tower over a peaceful
  temple where monks maintain an ornate sanctuary. Donations are welcome to
  support the home they provide for children in need.
  Tributary of the Mekong River | FIREBIRD007/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  WHERE TO STAY IN TRA VINH
  Bich Ngoan Hotel
  Colourful and clean rooms a few blocks from the river. Downstairs is a good garden cafe. $
  Thanh Tra Hotel
  Good value, centrally located business hotel near Tra Vinh’s covered market. $
  Vila Basi
  Leafy and bohemian homestay around 12km west of Tra Vinh. A good option for motorcycle
  travellers. $
  TRA VINH’S CULINARY STARS
  Another Mekong Delta city, and another local food speciality. In Tra Vinh, it’s bun nuoc leo,
  a Cambodian-influenced noodle soup made with fermented fish, chicken, coconut juice,
  banana flowers and garlic chives. Served at a string of simple eateries along Ð Ly Thuong
  Kiet, it’s served with essential side dishes of roast pork, crackling and steamed shrimp
  cakes. Don’t be surprised if you come back for a second serving in the morning. Other
  food-related highlights of Tra Vinh include banh tet – sticky rice, mung beans, pork and
  preserved egg wrapped in banana leaves – and one of southern Vietnam’s best outdoor
  markets, a colourful affair which sprawls right along Ð Bach Dang on the city’s riverfront.
  Exploring Traditional Khmer Culture
  TEMPLES, PAGODAS AND A RIVERSIDE MARKETS
  The gracious boulevards of Tra Vinh are shaded by expansive trees, and with
  more than 140 Khmer pagodas dotting the province, the city is ideal for
  exploring Mekong’s little-touted Cambodian connection. About 300,000 ethnic
  Khmer live in Tra Vinh province, and while they also speak Vietnamese, dig a
  little deeper and you’ll discover Khmer culture is alive and well in this part of
  Vietnam. Chances are you’ll be the only international tourist in town on any
  given day. Buses from Ben Tre to Tra Vinh take around two hours.
  Just north of Tra Vinh’s covered central market, Ong Met pagoda is busy
  with Khmer Buddhist monks studying in the library, diligently sweeping or
  strolling in the shaded gardens. First established in AD 711, Ong Met shines
  brilliantly gold among soaring eucalyptus trees. At the opposite end of central
  Tra Vinh, it’s around 2km south to Kampong Ksan; if you’re walking it’s
  worth taking in Tra Vinh’s superb riverside market. Best seen from across the
  river on Kho Dau, Kampong Ksan is Tra Vinh’s newest Khmer pagoda, and its
  golden stupas resemble riverside Wat Arun in Bangkok. Children from the
  pagoda’s school are always keen to say hi. To complete a Tra Vinh Khmer
  pagoda exploration, check out Hang Pagoda, 6km south of town, known as the
  stork pagoda after the storks and egrets nesting in the tall trees here.
  Hang Pagoda | TULEYHCM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  GETTING AROUND
  My Tho can be reached by frequent buses from Ben Tre, and as it’s only around 15km
  north across the soaring Rach Mieu Bridge, it’s also realistic to travel by taxi or motorbike
  for a day trip. The Grab ride-sharing app is active in both cities. Tra Vinh’s bus station is
  5km south of town on Hwy (QL) 54. Most bus companies offer a free shuttle into their
  offices in the town centre. Visiting Tra Vinh as a (long) day trip is possible, but it’s best to
  stay at least a night in this city where foreign travellers are a rarity.
  VINH LONG
  Between Can Tho and My Tho, Vinh Long is one of the Mekong Delta’s major
  transit hubs. Of most interest to travellers is the city’s easygoing riverfront, in
  close proximity to decent restaurants and an interesting market; there’s also a
  pleasingly energetic urban buzz to the centre of town around Trung Nu Vuong.
  From the riverfront, it’s easy to arrange a boat trip exploring the region’s
  riverine labyrinth of meandering canals and narrow waterways, but most
  visitors to Vinh Long continue on a short distance by ferry across to An Binh
  for a couple of relaxing and rural days at one of the island’s popular family-run
  homestays. If you’ve come straight from the non-stop energy of HCMC, an
  easygoing sojourn and good local food at a homestay could be just what you
  need.
  TOP TIP
  ATMs, restaurants, cafes and street food are all gathered around Trung Nu Vuong. From the
  central city area north to the Co Chien river is around 500m. Frequent ferries cross the river
  from here to An Binh island.
  CAI BE FLOATING MARKET
  Although it has shrunk considerably due to bridges and roads replacing river transport of
  goods, this market is often an attraction on a boat tour from Vinh Long. It was also
  affected during the Covid-19 pandemic, and was operating late 2022 with around 10
  boats. The market is at its best around 6am, though still might comprise only a handful of
  boats. Wholesalers on big boats moor here, each specialising in different types of fruit or
  vegetables, and hanging samples of their goods from tall wooden poles. There are also a
  few smaller boats selling coffee and noodles for breakfast. The market is around an hour
  by boat from Vinh Long northeast of An Binh island. Located on Vinh Long’s riverfront,
  Cuu Long Tourist can arrange market tours. Freelance boat operators may also approach
  you.
  Relaxing & Scenic Riverfront
  EXPLORE ALONG THE CO CHIEN RIVER
  The esplanade along Vinh Long’s riverfront is a relaxing escape from the often
  busy streets of the central city. Make time to explore the leafy grounds and
  French colonial buildings of the Vinh Long Provincial Museum (Bao Tang
  Tinh Vinh Long). Opening hours for the interior – largely focused on local
  history – can be somewhat flexible, but an interesting selection of American
  War detritus, including American tanks, aircraft and a helicopter, is displayed in
  the museum’s grounds. At the opposite (western) edge of the riverfront, Tien
  River Park (Cong Vien Song Tien) has good sunset views and is a popular spot
  for coffee and twilight strolls.
  Frequent ferries cross the caramel-coloured waters of the river to even
  sleepier An Binh island, and despite the occasional crush of motorbikes
  crowding onto the ferries, there’s a relatively languid air to the scene.
  Vinh Long | SCENIC VIETNAM/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  WHERE TO STAY IN VINH LONG
  Phuoc Hung 2 Hotel
  French-influenced decor and a central location combine with a good pho restaurant
  downstairs. $
  Minh Khue Hotel
  A handy location near the riverfront and the convenient attraction of a supermarket Co-Op
  across the road. $
  Saigon Hotel
  The tallest building in Vinh Long features a rooftop swimming pool and spacious rooms with
  river views. $$
  Enjoying a Homestay Experience
  A RELAXED SLICE OF RURAL LIFE
  Just north of Vinh Long’s riverfront, and reached by a frequent and always busy
  passenger ferry, An Binh island is a popular destination while exploring the
  Mekong Delta. Group tours, including staying in a local homestay, are offered
  by travel agencies in HCMC, but it’s straightforward to book online with local
  accommodation providers and make your own way to the island. Motorbike
  transfers to the various homestays are usually provided, and half-day cruises
  taking in the Cai Be floating market and exploring narrow canals and
  picturesque backwaters are also on offer.
  Some homestays have large communal rooms with bunks, while others offer
  basic bungalows with shared facilities or private rooms with en suite. Breakfast
  is usually included; in some places you’ll share a meal with the family, while in
  bigger places there are simple restaurants. Note that interactions with the family
  can be minimal at well-established and long-time properties. Activities on the
  island include riding bicycles through stands of jackfruit and papaya trees,
  carefully crossing decades-old arched bridges across narrow canals, or relaxing
  for a leisurely morning or afternoon in a hammock. The only constant is the
  verdant and rustic setting.
  BEST PLACES TO EAT IN VINH LONG
  Quan Nem Nuong
  Nem nuong (grilled pork skewers) served with an overflowing plate of fresh herbs. Expect
  an enthusiastic welcome from the owners’ dog. Along the same street are good lau
  (hotpot) restaurants and lots of fresh fruit at Vinh Long’s central market. $
  Thoc Cafe
  Riverfront breezes, good-value breakfast dishes and coffee, smoothies and juices. Snacks
  are served at night in the cafe’s leafy garden. $
  Pho Trung Vuong
  Pho bo (beef noodle soup) is served in robust stone bowls. Open for breakfast and also for
  evening servings from 4pm. Downstairs at the Phuoc Hung 2 hotel. $
  Meo U Kitchen
  Dishes influenced by Japanese and Korean street food are served in a leafy garden setting.
  $
  A Fascinating Canal-side Temple
  REMEMBERING A REVERED REVOLUTIONARY
  Around 2.5km southeast of central Vinh Long, Van Thanh Mieu Temple was
  built in the 19th century. Confucian temples like this – decorated with vibrant
  renderings of dragons and statues of Confuciu – are rare in southern Vietnam.
  The monks who study here actually practise Buddhism.
  The front hall honours local hero Phan Thanh Gian who led an uprising
  against the French colonists in 1930. When it became obvious that his revolt
  was doomed, Phan killed himself rather than be captured by the colonial army.
  The rear hall, built in 1866, has a portrait of Confucius above the altar. Take
  time to explore the leafy grounds beside the Long Ho canal and seek out a
  brace of compact lakes blanketed with lotus plants.
  The Grab app for car and motorbike taxis is available in Vinh Long;
  otherwise the temple is a 30-minute stroll along Tran Phu, the road bordering
  the Long Ho canal. Locals usually call the complex the ‘Phan Thanh Gian
  Temple’, so use that name if you’re arranging a motorbike taxi on the street.
  WHERE TO STAY ON AN BINH ISLAND
  Ngoc Sang Homestay
  A riverside location, free bike hire and a warm welcome from the friendly family owners. $
  Phuong Thao Homestay
  Double rooms, comfy dorms and a swimming pool all set in a leafy garden. $
  Ba Linh Homestay
  Private rooms with en suite bathrooms in a simple wooden structure. $
  CAO LANH
  Enjoying significant trade ties with nearby Cambodia, Cao Lanh is the
  administrative and business hub of Dong Thap province. With good road links
  to Can Tho and Chau Doc, Cao Lanh is a convenient base from which to visit
  Xeo Quyt Forest and Tram Chim National Park. Both can only be explored by
  boat, with Xeo Quyt’s improbably narrow waterways echoing with Viet Cong
  resistance history, and Tram Chim hosting a significant population of storks and
  other birds.
  Transected by canals and centred on an interesting park and pretty lake, Cao
  Lanh is also a surprisingly walkable city that’s refreshingly untouched by
  tourism. Chances are you’ll be the only foreigners in town on any given night.
  Just make sure you pack mosquito repellent – you’ll definitely need it when
  exploring Xeo Quyt Forest, and Cao Lanh has a higher incidence of dengue
  fever than other places in the Mekong Delta.
  TOP TIP
  Places of interest for travellers in Cao Lanh are situated around the centrally located bus
  station – near the Sao Mai hotel and the Ngoc Lan restaurant on Ð Nguyen Hue; another good
  area for hotels, cafes and restaurants is just north of Van Thanh Mieu park on Ton Duc Thang.
  REMEMBERING WAR
  The war memorial on the eastern edge of town off Hwy 30, known locally as Nghia Trang
  Liet Si Dong Thap, is Cao Lanh’s most prominent landmark, a Socialist Realist–style
  sculpture featuring a large white concrete statue of a decorated soldier holding flowers in
  front of a stylised star. The rear of the statue is illustrated with storks, a symbol of the
  Mekong.
  History, Culture & Local Life
  AN EXCELLENT MUSEUM AND A POPULAR PARK
  Despite having only limited English captions, the Dong Thap Museum is among
  the Mekong’s best museums. The ground floor of the handsome building
  displays an anthropological history of Dong Thap province, with exhibits of
  tools, sculptures, models of traditional houses and a few requisite taxidermied
  animals and pickled fish. Upstairs is devoted to war history and the life and
  influence of Ho Chi Minh. Cross the canal at the southern end of the central city
  to find the museum.
  To the northwest, at the heart of the city and encompassing a temple and lake
  with a topiary outline of Vietnam in the middle, Van Thanh Mieu is a lush and
  verdant park that’s a great place to observe local Cao Lanh life. Early-morning
  exercisers get active on outdoor gym equipment, and after dark under twinkling
  lights, lovers gather on benches around the lake. There are plenty of good cafes
  in close proximity for an after-dark bubble tea, fruit juice or coffee.
  Tram Chim National Park | HIEN PHUNG THU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  WHERE TO STAY IN CAO LANH
  Sao Mai Hotel
  Huge rooms and a good breakfast buffet. Near the Cao Lanh bus station. $$
  Hotel Tri Le
  Stylish rooms, a convenient location and scooter rental all combine at Cao Lanh’s newest
  hotel. $
  Hotel BOB
  Spacious and elegant rooms, with a canal-side location just north of Van Thanh Mieu and near
  good restaurants. $
  BEST RESTAURANTS IN CAO LANH
  Ngoc Lan
  Dine alfresco at the ‘Magnolia’ at night and enjoy standout dishes including chicken with
  lemongrass and chilli. There’s a convenient English-language menu. $
  Anna Pizza
  Wood-fired goodness and well-executed pasta dishes. Order a classic ham and mushroom
  pizza, or try the Mekong special pizza with tamarind leaves, pea flowers and chilli. $
  A Luc Quan Dinh Heo Rung
  Raffish BBQ teaming grilled wild boar and duck with pungent dipping sauces and fresh
  herbs. Combine the canal-side location with a cold beer. $
  An Enchanting Forest Experience
  DISCOVER FASCINATING VIET CONG HISTORY
  Around 35km southeast of Cao Lanh near My Hiep village is the 52-hectare
  Xeo Quyt Forest. Comprising one vast swamp beneath a thick canopy of tall
  trees and vines, the forest conceals the remains of Viet Cong bunkers, and is
  negotiated on a slim canoe through the narrowest of forest waterways, or by
  foot along elevated walking trails. Following the end of the rainy season during
  September or October, water often washes over the trail, and you’ll need to
  duck right down to make it under small concrete bridges in the boat.
  Xeo Quyt’s fascinating 20-minute canoe tours travel past old bunkers, Viet
  Cong meeting pavilions – complete with VC mannequin cadres – and former
  minefields, all while winding around a canal loop choked with water hyacinths
  (luc binh). It’s an exquisite experience soundtracked by the sound of a local My
  Hiep woman paddling, but definitely splash on insect repellent as there’s always
  a few mosquitoes lurking. The walking trail parallels the canal and allows you
  to look into VC bunkers, and admire the concealed trapdoors through which the
  VC disappeared underground. Unlike those at Cu Chi, these entrances have not
  been enlarged for the benefit of Western travellers, so accessing the tunnels is
  not possible.
  During the American War, only around 10 VC were present at any given
  time, but they were usually all generals directing the war just 2km from a US
  military base. The Americans never realised the generals were right under their
  noses, and while they periodically dropped ordnance on the forest, the VC
  remained safe in their hideouts.
  GETTING AROUND
  Cao Lanh’s bus station is conveniently located in the town centre. FUTA has the most
  frequent departures with destinations including Can Tho, Chau Doc and HCMC. More local
  destinations, closer to Cao Lanh, include Sa Dec and Vinh Long.
  For trips to Xeo Quyt Forest, negotiate with a Cao Lanh motorbike taxi driver, or ask
  about arranging a taxi at your hotel. Can Tho– and Chau Doc–based tour companies can
  also organise multiday Mekong Delta experiences incorporating Xeo Quyt.
  Beyond Cao Lanh
  Explore interesting birdlife, a local industry making Vietnam more
  colourful, and an historic house that inspired French writing.
  Catch a bus southeast over and along the Mekong River to the city of Sa Dec,
  now usurped as the capital of Dong Thap province by Cao Lanh, but still
  enjoying a nationwide reputation for producing Vietnam’s most colourful and
  popular flowers. Nearer to the river, Sa Dec’s attractions include faded colonial
  villas, a good night market, and the romance and melancholia of a storied late-
  19th-century residence. Experiencing birdlife is another good reason to explore
  further afield with Tram Chim National Park alive with migratory fly-ins from
  Cambodia, and Bang Lang Stork Garden populated year-round with more than
  10 different avian species.
  Huynh Thuy Le Old House | HUY THOAI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  TOP TIP
  Sa Dec’s Huynh Thuy Le Old House can be booked for overnight accommodation. Look
  forward to sleeping in a rickety four-poster bed.
  SA DEC FLOWER VILLAGE
  Exploring the western outskirts of Sa Dec guarantees a blooming good time. Around 3000
  family-owned nurseries line the river and canals here, and while many of them grow
  different flowers – including orchids, daisies and marigolds – more than 50 different rose
  variants are exported around Asia for weddings, temple celebrations and other festivities.
  The nurseries operate year-round, though they are practically stripped bare of their
  flowers just before the annual Tet festival for the Vietnamese New Year. Domestic tourists
  from HCMC regularly arrive in droves on Sundays, and the nurseries are a major
  sightseeing attraction around the Tet holiday. Inevitably, the brightly coloured fields of
  flowers have become a major attraction with courting couples and honeymooners staging
  alfresco Instagram or TikTok photo shoots.
  Sa Dec Flower Village | MARIE SHARK/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  Memories of a Forbidden Romance
  EXPLORE AN HISTORIC RIVERSIDE MANSION.
  The relaxed and comparatively peaceful former capital of Dong Thap province,
  Sa Dec is a city of tree-lined streets and fading colonial villas, all framed by the
  slow-moving, caramel-coloured river and ringed with orchards and flower
  markets. Frequent buses (45 minutes) travel from Cao Lanh.
  The town’s biggest draw for travellers, especially those from France, is the
  wonderfully atmospheric Huynh Thuy Le Old House, known locally as the
  ‘Lover House’. Originally built in 1895, the gracious riverfront building was
  once the residence of Huynh Thuy Le, the son of a rich Chinese family. In 1929
  he had an affair with the nascent French novelist Marguerite Duras. She was
  only 15 at the time, and living with her family in colonial Indochina in far more
  impecunious circumstances than the scion of a wealthy family of Chinese
  traders.
  Duras later immortalised the romance in her book L’Amant (The Lover), and
  the semi-autobiographical novel was made into a film by French director JeanJacques
  Annaud in 1992. It was actually the first Western film to be shot in
  Vietnam following reunification of the country in 1975, and due to several racy
  scenes has only ever been shown in a heavily modified version in Vietnamese
  cinemas and on television. The house is of Sino-French design with intricate
  interior woodwork, mother-of-pearl inlaid doors, heavy wooden furniture and
  original floor tiles made in France. Period photographs showcase both the reallife
  protagonists of the book, and also the making of the movie. With a bit of
  luck, Mrs Thanh Tuyen, a charming Sa Dec–born local guide will be on hand to
  bring to life the poignant story of a century-old romance in excellent English (or
  French).
  WHERE TO EAT IN SA DEC
  Quan Com Thuy
  Delicious local specialties including fried river fish and clay-pot eel with rice. $
  Hu Tieu Nam Vang My Ngo
  Sa Dec’s most popular spot for hu tieu noodles. $
  Night market
  Held at a riverside location with hotpot restaurants and plenty of grilled-on-a-stick specialties.
  $
  BANG LANG STORK GARDEN
  Around 40km southeast of Cao Lanh, near the town of Long Xuyen, the Bang Lang Stork
  Garden is a 1.3-hectare bird sanctuary with thousands of resident storks and snowy
  egrets. Eleven different species have actually been identified in the compact forest, and
  there is a tall viewing platform to see the birds filling the branches. The best times to view
  them are around dawn and at dusk. Though Bang Lang isn’t an essential sight, it’s worth a
  stop if you have your own transport and are travelling from Can Tho to Chau Doc.
  Birdlife in a Protected Reserve
  MORE THAN 200 DIFFERENT AVIAN LOCALS
  Around 40km north of Cao Lanh, Tram Chim National Park is most notable
  for its rare red-headed cranes (Grus antigone sharpii). More than 220 other
  species of bird also live within the reserve, and while the area is not as
  accessible as the Tra Su Cajuput Forest near Chau Doc, Tra Chim is still a
  popular destination for travelling birdwatchers. Tram Chim’s cranes nest around
  December to May, and from June to November migrate northwest across the
  border to Cambodia.
  Motorbike taxi drivers in Cao Lanh can arrange transport to the park
  entrance. Make sure you also negotiate a return journey. Inside the park, getting
  around is undertaken on electric taxis, motorboats and punts. An observation
  tower, complete with a giant fibreglass egg on top, provides excellent views of
  Tram Chim’s wetlands bordered by towering cajuput trees. From January to
  March, the waterways are enlivened by the purple blooms of bladderwort
  flowers, a carnivorous subaquatic plant which flowers seasonally.
  GETTING AROUND
  Sa Dec is easily reached on buses travelling south from Cao Lanh, and also receives
  frequent arrivals from Vinh Long and Can Tho with FUTA.
  Motorbike taxis from central Sa Dec are the best way to visit the town’s flower markets,
  while the Lover House is centrally located. To visit Tram Chim National Park from Cao
  Lanh, arrange a motorbike taxi or book a guided tour and car transport. Contact Dong
  Thap Tourist through Cao Lanh’s Sao Mai Hotel.
  CAN THO
  Can Tho is the Mekong Delta’s largest city and it can resemble a metropolis
  after a few days exploring the region’s backwaters or spending time in more farflung
  areas. As the political, economic, cultural and transport centre of the
  Delta, it’s an energetic destination featuring a soporific daytime riverfront
  energised on a nightly basis as Can Tho’s very own ‘Walking Street’, and a
  pleasing urban blend of narrow backstreets and expansive boulevards. Bars,
  cafes and restaurants are more diverse than in other nearby cities, excellent
  street food abounds, and Can Tho is the only place in the Mekong Delta where
  you can kick on for a cocktail or craft beer. Most travellers come to experience
  nearby floating markets, reached by a flotilla of boats packed with early risers
  still wiping the sleep from their eyes, and other destinations best reached by
  waterborne transport including the sustainable agriculture hub of Son Inlet.
  SIGHTS
  1 Can Tho Museum
  2 Đ De Tham
  3 Lotus Bridge
  4 Ong Temple
  5 Pitu Kohsa Rangsay Pagoda
  SLEEPING
  6 Victoria Can Tho Resort
  EATING
  7 Banh Cong Co Ut
  8 Hieu Banh Song Yen 2
  9 Quan Com Chay Cuong
  TOP TIP
  With most places of interest around the riverfront, walking is a good way to explore Can Tho.
  The Grab ride-sharing app can be used for taxi and motorbike transport further afield to the
  Hung Kings Temple. Join a guided tour to visit Son Inlet and the floating markets.
  BEST RESTAURANTS IN CAN THO
  Spices
  Book ahead for Saturday night’s street food buffet at the Victoria Can Tho Resort. $$
  Lua Nep
  Excellent Vietnamese flavours and fresh seafood served under a soaring thatch-roofed
  pavilion. $$
  L’Escale
  Cocktails, tapas, rooftop and a romantic ambience at the Nam Bo Boutique Hotel. Try the
  garlic shrimp or grilled salmon. $$
  Nam Bo
  Downstairs at the Nam Bo hotel, blending Vietnamese and international flavours. Also
  breakfast. $$
  Famous Floating Markets
  COMMERCE, COFFEE AND BREAKFAST NOODLES
  The Mekong Delta’s biggest floating market is Cai Rang, 6km from Can Tho in
  the direction of Soc Trang. The market is best visited around 6am to 7am,
  usually beating most of the tourists and the heat. This is a wholesale market, so
  look at what’s tied to the long pole above the boat to see what they’re selling.
  While Cai Rang can also be seen from the road, getting here is more
  interesting by boat from the Can Tho riverfront (45 minutes). Another option is
  to drive to the Cau Dau Sau boat landing (about 4km southwest of Can Tho by
  the Dau Sau Bridge), from where it takes just 10 minutes to reach the market by
  boat. Due to the ongoing impact of improved road and transport links, vendor
  numbers are falling; in 2022 it was estimated at around 250 to 300 boats,
  roughly half the number in earlier years. At the time of writing, local authorities
  were considering options to preserve the appeal of the market for visiting
  tourists.
  Some floating market tours from Can Tho also take in Phong Dien floating
  market, a more intimate affair with more stand-up rowing boats than motorised
  craft.
  WHERE TO STAY IN CAN THO
  The Lighthouse
  Spacious boutique rooms with a brilliant riverside location and an excellent cafe-restaurant.
  $$
  Azerai Can Tho Resort
  Stylish designer luxury located at the tip of a private island. $$$
  Victoria Can Tho Resort
  Luxury and French-colonial style featuring lush greenery and a riverside spa. $$$
  History, Temples & Pagodas
  SPECTACULAR ARCHITECTURE AND SPIRITUAL SPACES
  Several interesting historical buildings are worth seeking out in Can Tho.
  Dating from 1870, the Binh Thuy Ancient House was built by wealthy
  merchant Duong Chan Ky and extensively renovated in the French colonial
  style in the early 20th century. The interior of the house is still original, with
  hand-painted floor tiles, decorative wood carvings and floor-to-ceiling display
  cabinets. The house was a main location in the film adaptation of The Lover
  (L’Amant), directed by Jean-Jacques Annaud in 1992.
  Facing the Can Tho River, the Ong Temple is decorated with huge, constantly
  burning incense coils. The temple is set inside the Guangzhou Assembly Hall,
  and its fragrant, smoke-filled interior is a relaxing escape from Can Tho’s
  riverfront.
  It was originally built in the late 19th century to worship Kuang Kung, a
  deity symbolising loyalty, justice, reason, intelligence, honour and courage.
  Wait long enough and you’ll see how the incense coils are lit and hung on long
  poles.
  Concealed down a quiet backstreet, Can Tho’s Pitu Kohsa Rangsay Pagoda is
  a rare three-level Khmer Theravada Buddhist pagoda built in 1948. Gloriously
  gilded in gold, The carved, detailed wall patterns, painted columns, huge
  Buddha statue and city views from the balcony are all impressive.
  EXPLORING CAN THO MUSEUM
  Occupying a central location along busy DL Hoa Binh, Can Tho’s large, well-presented
  museum brings local history to life with mannequins and life-size reproductions of
  buildings, including a Chinese pagoda and a house interior. Displays (with comprehensive
  and considered English translations) focus on the region’s Khmer and Chinese
  communities, plant and fish specimens, rice production and, inevitably, the various wars
  that have impacted on this southern part of Vietnam across the centuries. Especially
  interesting are photos from the 1960s and 1970s covering the US Navy and Coast Guard
  presence in the Delta during the American War. The museum’s spacious galleries offer a
  haven from Can Tho’s summer heat or impetuous rainy season downpours.
  WHERE TO STAY IN CAN THO
  Mekong 69 Hostel
  Colourful and modern decor with helpful and enthusiastic staff. $
  Green Village Mekong
  Thatch-roofed bungalows in a rural, riverside setting 10km from downtown Can Tho. $$
  Can Tho Ecolodge
  Accommodation in rustic but stylish two-storey wooden houses. In Ban Lang village, 12km
  southwest of Can Tho. $$
  Famous & Flavour-packed
  THE CITY’S POPULAR DINING HOT SPOT
  As the Mekong Delta’s biggest city, Can Tho has an excellent food scene. One
  centrally located thoroughfare, Đ De Tham, is especially recommended for
  curious foodie travellers, and is at its best late afternoon and into the evening.
  Northwest of the riverfront, it can be visited on street food experiences with
  both Hieu’s Tour (hieutour.com) and Mekong Tours (mekongtours.info).
  Recommended spots include Banh Cong Co Ut for banh cong, a local Can Tho
  specialty of a savoury mung bean ‘muffin’ studded with whole shrimp. Try a
  couple wrapped in lettuce and a mini-mountain of fresh herbs. For vegetarian
  dishes, visit Quan Com Chay Cuong, a popular restaurant near the intersection
  of Đ De Tham and ÐL Hoa Binh. The vegetable, rice and faux-meat dishes
  (including mock-chicken hotpot) are nicely prepared and the service is friendly.
  Order from the English menu or point at what you’d like to eat from the buffet.
  Nearby street-food stalls and restaurants along Đ De Tham serve up everything
  from plate-covering banh xeo (savoury filled pancakes) to com ga hap cai
  (poached chicken and rice). Definitely leave room for dessert of a wedge of
  delicious flan from Hieu Banh Song Yen 2, a friendly bakery a few doors along
  from Quan Com Chay Cuong.
  Floating market | HUY THOAI/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  VISITING A FLOATING MARKET
  Consider the following when booking a floating market tour.
  What’s included? Is it a dash to Cai Rang, or a half-day tour also taking in Phong Dien and
  smaller waterways?
  How big is the boat? Larger boats offer life jackets and covered roofs, but you’ll be in a
  bigger group. Smaller boats are more intimate, but not all carry life jackets and many have
  no shelter from rain and sun.
  When does the tour depart? Starting out after 6am, you’ll miss the busiest activity.
  Does the guide speak OK English? Small boats along the riverside offer the cheapest
  deals, but you won’t get a commentary on riverside life. Hieu’s Tour (hieutour.com) is
  recommended for English-speaking guides and good programmes.
  After-dark Energy & Entertainment
  A FAVOURITE DESTINATION FOR LOCAL FAMILIES
  Every night of the week, the biggest game in town is Can Tho’s Ninh Kieu
  Walking Street, a neon-lit riverside extravaganza extending for 700m along Ð
  Hai Ba Trung. From 6pm to 10pm, the thoroughfare is reserved for pedestrians
  only with highlights including a night market lining Vo Van Tan, and street
  food stalls a few blocks away along Phan Boi Chau. Popular dishes include
  banh trang nuong (aka ‘Vietnamese pizza’) and refreshing goi xoai (mango
  salad). Fans of xiu mai dumplings and various snacks grilled on a stick also
  won’t go hungry.
  Entertainment along Walking Street is provided by buskers and impromptu
  performers who gather outside Can Tho’s French colonial-era Old Market.
  Look forward to dazzling dance routines and the occasional local Vietnamese
  take on K-pop culture. To escape the vibrant sensory overload of this section of
  Walking Street, head north along the riverside and cross the spectacular Lotus
  footbridge crossing the Cai Khe canal. Opened in 2016, the graceful S-shaped
  bridge is a popular destination for courting teens – a local nickname is the
  ‘Love Bridge’ – and a viewing platform in the centre offers excellent views
  south along the river down Ð Hai Ba Trung. From the northern end of of the
  bridge, it’s a short walk to the Victoria Can Tho Resort.
  GETTING AROUND
  Can Tho is the Mekong Delta’s most important hub for bus transport. Most services
  terminate at the central bus station (Ben Xe 91B) around 5km southwest of the city
  centre. Buses also sometimes stop at Bến xe Khách Trung Tam south of the river en route,
  also around 5km from central Can Tho. Some companies provide a free shuttle to/from
  the bus station. The Grab app for taxis and motorcycles is also available for transport from
  bus stations to accommodation. Boat transport includes Mai Linh Express ferries to the
  Con Dao Islands.
  Most of Can Tho’s main sights are around the very walkable riverfront. Join a tour to
  explore floating markets and other attractions outside the city centre.
  Beyond Can Tho
  Explore southern Vietnam’s heartland of traditional Khmer culture, a
  surprising rural island and a spectacular new temple honouring an
  ancient dynasty.
  Harness the urban riverfront energy of Can Tho as a base for interesting halfday
  excursions, or venture further afield for an off-the-beaten-path adventure
  exploring spectacular pagodas. Closest to Can Tho’s riverfront, 2022’s Hung
  Kings Temple is an audacious structure reinforcing the unity of Vietnam, while
  tours with Can Tho–based travel guides are the best way to journey by ferry and
  bicycle to explore the city’s interesting rural hinterland. Around two hours
  southeast by bus, Soc Trang is strongly imbued with Khmer culture and many
  temples influenced culturally and spiritually from across the border in
  Cambodia. Visit in November for a traditional festival enlivened by longboat
  racing on the Soc Trang River.
  TRAN QUI THINH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  TOP TIP
  Can Tho can get very warm and humid. When arranging biking tours, start in the relative cool
  of the morning.
  CYCLING TO TEMPLES & PAGODAS
  Can Tho’s a popular base for half-day cycling excursions. Beginning from the riverfront,
  guided experiences wind through city streets to board a ferry across the river to Cai Von
  in Vinh Long province. Stops include the Cai Von market for morning coffee, and then
  visiting a fascinating Buddhist temple dedicated to Tien Hau, the Chinese goddess of the
  sea. Continuing mainly on quieter backroads, a canal-side lane through quiet hamlets is
  the thoroughfare to the final stop at Phu Ly Pagoda, a Khmer temple complex near the
  village of Dong Binh. The pagoda’s main pavilion is enlivened with colourful paintings of
  the Buddha’s life, many funded by local Khmer families now living overseas. Contact Hieu
  Tour to arrange guided biking tours.
  Can Tho’s Most Entertaining Isle
  SUSTAINABLE AGRICULTURE ON A SURPRISING ISLAND
  Blending sustainable agriculture, excellent food and very surprising local
  entertainment, Can Tho’s Son Inlet (also known as Con Son Island) is a popular
  destination from the city. Located around 10km northwest of the city, the
  island’s best visited on a guided tour. Half-day excursions with Can Tho’s Hieu
  Tour often incorporate the company of Kim Hien, a friendly and very
  knowledgable island guide.
  Tours begin with a ferry journey from sleepy Co Bac wharf, crossing to the
  low-slung island, and then continuing by foot and on a mini-armada of smaller
  boats to various locations around Son Inlet. Floating fish farms segue to
  orchards of sustainable and organic pomelo, while trying traditional cakes and
  snacks infused with coconut cream is also a highlight. Hopping between stops
  by boat, walking on narrow village paths and crossing canals on vertiginous
  ‘monkey bridges’ is both relaxing and loads of fun, and a few enterprising
  locals have also incorporated unique entertainment into their cottage industries.
  Pro tip? You’ll want to set your smartphone video to slow-motion mode to
  capture Son Inlet’s amazing leaping snakehead fish or the spectacular way they
  make puffed-rice popcorn around these parts.
  A Buddhist temple, Can Tho | MARIE MARTIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  WHERE TO EAT BREAKFAST IN CAN THO
  Chicken Banh Mi 37
  Crunchy baguettes filled with pâté, grilled chicken and an optional egg (banh mi op la). $
  The Lighthouse
  Where to head when you’re hanging out for espresso and eggs Benedict. $$
  Quan Pho Bo Kho 34
  Start the day with pho bo (beef noodle soup) along busy Đ De Tham. $
  HUNG KINGS TEMPLE
  Can Tho’s Hung Kings Temple is one of Vietnam’s most spectacular new buildings.
  Shaped like a traditional bronze drum, the temple’s 18 soaring pillars reflect the 18
  legendary kings of the Van Lang dynasty who ruled over northern Vietnam from around
  2789 BCE. Framing a lake surrounding the temple are 54 cylindrical pillars representing
  Vietnam’s 54 different ethnic groups. Inaugurated in 2022, the temple’s Can Tho location
  in southern Vietnam is designed to promote unity with northern Vietnam across the entire
  nation. Visit around dusk to share the moment with local photographers taking advantage
  of soft late afternoon light. Located 8km northeast of central Can Tho, the Hung Kings
  Temple is best reached by taxi or motorbike.
  Heartland of Khmer Culture
  TEMPLES, PAGODAS AND TWILIGHT BATS
  Easily reached by bus from Can Tho (around two hours), Soc Trang is an
  important centre for the Khmer people. Around 30% of the population in the
  surrounding namesake province are Khmer – the highest percentage in Vietnam
  – and the riverside city is a convenient base for exploring Khmer temples in the
  region. Soc Trang’s annual Om Bom Boc festival, held in November according
  to the lunar calendar, attracts Khmer communities from all around Vietnam and
  Cambodia, with the highlight being exciting longboat racing on the Soc Trang
  River.
  A day exploring Soc Trang’s Khmer temples is best negotiated on the back of
  a motorbike and should be focused on three key destinations. Originally built in
  wood in the 18th century, Xa Long Pagoda was completely rebuilt in 1923, but
  still proved to be too small, and from 1969 to 1985, ongoing donations trickled
  in to fund the impressive present-day pagoda. Founded over 200 years ago by a
  Chinese family named Ngo, Buu Son Tu (Precious Mountain Temple) is
  unusual in that nearly every object inside is made of clay. Hundreds of statues
  and sculptures adorning the interior were hand-sculpted by the monk Ngo Kim
  Tong. Finally, Mahatup Pagoda (Bat Pagoda) is a peaceful Khmer monastery
  with its own resident colony of fruit bats. At dusk, hundreds of the creatures
  depart from the pagoda to forage in nearby fruit orchards.
  GETTING AROUND
  Frequent buses head from Can Tho on the two-hour journey southeast to Soc Trang. The
  river city is also linked to the Con Dao Islands by ferry, the closest mainland departure
  point to the remote archipelago. During high winds and heavy seas, often during region’s
  rainy season, these services from Soc Trang may be cancelled or delayed, and flying from
  Can Tho or HCMC can be more reliable.
  Join a tour with Hieu Tour to explore Son Inlet, or to embark on a biking experience
  taking in the Tien Hau and Phu Ly pagodas.
  CON DAO ISLANDS
  Located around 80km southeast of the Mekong Delta, the Con Dao Islands are
  one of Vietnam’s most rewarding destinations for curious travellers. Draped
  around an oceanfront esplanade on the main island, the pocket-sized capital of
  Con Son town blends colonial architecture, a relaxed ambience, and excellent
  cafes and restaurants. Elsewhere on this rugged and forested island, hiking,
  exploring by scooter or bicycle are popular, as is wildlife-watching and the
  chance of sighting the black giant squirrel and endemic bow-fingered gecko.
  All around the archipelago’s strikingly beautiful 15 islands, beach-combing,
  diving and snorkelling are relaxed ways to fill a few Con Dao days. Balancing
  this contemporary focus on scenic beauty and outdoor adventures is the grimly
  fascinating legacy of the islands’ tragic past as a prison for revolutionaries
  under French colonial rule and during the American War.
  SIGHTS
  1 Bao Tang Con Dao Museum
  2 Con Dao Prison
  3 Ð Ton Duc Thang
  4 Phu Hai Camp
  EATING
  5 Bo Beefsteak 30A
  6 Con Son Market
  DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
  7 Bar 200
  8 Cafe Con Son
  TOP TIP
  With an oceanfront esplanade on Con Son Island, the largest of the Con Dao archipelago’s 15
  islands and islets, compact Con Son town is easily negotiated on foot. Rent a scooter to reach
  the trailhead for hiking in the national park and to travel to beaches around the island.
  BEST PLACES TO EAT IN CON SON
  Thu Ba
  Centrally located in Thu Ba town and great for seafood and hotpots. $$
  ULA Bar & Kitchen
  Cocktails, craft beer and great snacks. $$
  Gia Minh
  Handmade noodles, seafood spring rolls and homemade plum and pineapple wines. $
  Beach House Restaurant
  Homemade pasta, flatbreads, salads with well-priced cocktails.
  Chay Day’s Vegetarian Kitchen
  Banh xeo (savoury pancakes), and salads all served with tips on what to do on Con Dao. $
  Vietnam’s Relaxed Island Capital
  COLONIAL VILLAS AND A MORNING MARKET
  Across all of Vietnam, there’s nowhere quite like Con Son town. This charming
  pocket-sized capital, with its litter-free streets, well-kept municipal buildings
  and air of calm and prosperity, would make a perfect location for a period film
  set in historic Indochina. Traffic is still light and there’s often a cooling offshore
  breeze drifting through the streets.
  The main seafront promenade of Ð Ton Duc Thang is a delight to stroll,
  lined with French-era colonial villas, some crumbling slowly in the tropical
  climate, and a few others renovated as boutique hotels. At the western end of
  the promenade, a new ferry terminal opened in late 2022, architecturally
  shaped like a whale, and now providing a more convenient arrival location for
  travellers arriving by boat. Located nearby in the former French Maison des
  Passagers (Customs House), the Cafe Con Son is a great place for sunset
  drinks. A few blocks inland is Con Son’s local market, busiest between 7am
  and 9am, and an ideal spot for breakfast.
  Echoes of Revolutionary Struggle
  PRISON COMPOUNDS REFLECTING A TRAGIC HISTORY
  Remote and isolated from the mainland, Con Son was once hell on earth for
  prisoners who languished in foreboding jails, first established to incarcerate
  political dissidents in French colonial rule and then also used to house
  opponents of the American-backed regime in the 1960s. All the former prisons
  in and around Con Son town are covered by a single ticket available at the Bao
  Tang Con Dao Museum, the best place to get historical context before visiting
  the prisons.
  A short walk southwest from the museum and dating from French colonial
  rule, Phu Hai is the largest of the island’s 11 jails. Thousands of prisoners were
  held here, with up to 200 prisoners crammed into each detention building.
  During the French era, all prisoners were kept naked and chained together in
  rows. Today lifelike emaciated mannequins re-create this tragic era.
  Just north of the museum is the Con Dao Prison with the infamous cells
  dubbed ‘tiger cages’. The first were built in 1940 by the French to incarcerate
  nearly 2000 political prisoners, and the US continued using them in the 1960s
  and ‘70s. There are 120 chambers with ceiling bars, where guards could poke at
  prisoners like tigers in a Victorian-era zoo. The tiger cages were unknown to the
  outside world until 1970, when a US congressional aide photographed the cells
  and prisoners inside, and the images were published by Life magazine.
  REMEMBERING VO THI SAU
  The most visited grave in Con Son’s Hang Duong Cemetery is the tomb of Vo Thi Sau, a
  teenage resistance fighter during the French occupation. Aged 14, she killed a French
  captain in a grenade attack, and was only captured years later following a second
  assassination attempt. She was then taken to Con Son and executed aged 19.
  Visit the cemetery at midnight and you’ll find crowds packed around her grave, saying
  prayers and making offerings including mirrors, combs and lipstick, all symbolic because
  she died so young. The Vietnamese believe midnight is the most auspicious time to pay
  respects and venerate the spirit of this national heroine who was killed in the early hours
  of 23 January 1952.
  WHERE TO STAY ON CON DAO
  Lighthouse Boutique Hotel
  Colourful and stylish rooms in Con Son town. It’s a short walk to good restaurants and a
  supermarket. $$
  LoCo Lodge
  Dorms and private tents with fishing, snorkelling and camping experiences on offer. $
  Eden House & Coffee
  Lovely garden bungalows owned by just maybe Con Dao’s friendliest family. Around 2.5km
  from central Con Son. $$
  Hotel de Condor
  Chic and stylish boutique hotel on the quiet, rural edge of Con Son town. $$
  Hotel Huong Dao
  Spotless and well-run mini-hotel near the Con Son market. Upper floors have town and
  mountain views. $$
  Six Senses
  Uber-luxury, spa treatments and superb food on a private beachside location. $$$
  View of Con Dao islands | CRAVENA/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  A Superb Historic Overview
  ONE OF VIETNAM’S BEST MUSEUMS
  Opened in 2013, the main building of the Bao Tang Con Dao Museum in Con
  Dao features an extremely well-curated collection arrayed across several floors.
  Moving through the galleries on a clockwise basis is recommended, and
  English-language signage and commentary is excellent.
  Featuring more than 2000 exhibits, including dioramas and rare photographs
  and documents, the museum begins with interesting displays about the islands’
  geology and prehistory, before moving on to natural history and early journeys
  to the archipelago by Portuguese mariners in 1560, and the establishment of a
  fortified trading post by the British East India Company from 1702 to 1705.
  Following the 1861 establishment by the French of a prison on the island, Con
  Dao became a much darker and more foreboding place. The museum records
  this period very well, unflinching in its portrayal of the harsh conditions in the
  prison, and focusing on many of the very significant Vietnamese revolutionaries
  who were imprisoned here. Con Dao during the American War is also covered
  comprehensively, including a display on the 1970 Life magazine article which
  broke the news of US-built prison and the notorious ‘tiger cages’ that were used
  as cells.
  Definitely visit here before exploring Con Dao’s prisons as the museum
  provides excellent context about this tragic time in the island’s history. Purchase
  a Con Dao Sights joint ticket which also covers entrance to the prison
  complexes and other museums.
  ‘Tiger Cages’ in Con Dao Prison on Con Son Island | DONG NHAT HUY/SHUTTERSTOCKK ©
  CON SON’S OTHER MUSEUMS
  Located near the waterfront in the former French commandant’s residence, Con Dao’s
  Revolutionary Museum has exhibits on Vietnamese resistance against the French,
  communist opposition to the Republic of Vietnam and the treatment of political prisoners.
  You’ll also find a painting of Vo Thi Sau (facing death with her head held high) and some
  stuffed wildlife: boas, lizards and monkeys. To learn more the teenage martyr and national
  heroine, visit the Museum Vo Thi Sau, housed in a French colonial residence along Ð Le
  Duan. The leafy street is a showcase of some of Con Son’s most elegant French colonial
  buildings.
  GETTING AROUND
  Con Dao airport has traditionally received flights from HCMC, Hanoi and Can Tho, but
  from April to December 2023, the airport was closed to upgrade the runway, and
  helicopter flights were under consideration as an interim solution.
  Operating from near Soc Trang, Superdong (superdong.com.vn) runs ferries to Con
  Dao. Alternative options are Con Dao Express (condaoexpress.net) from Soc Trang and
  Vung Tau, and MaiLinh Express (taucaotocmailinh.com.vn) from Can Tho. A new ferry
  terminal near Con Son town opened in 2023. Sailings can often be cancelled or delayed
  due to heavy winds and seas, especially from September to November.
  Book ahead for flights and ferries from December to March, and also around weekends
  and public holidays. From Con Dao airport, ask your accommodation to book a shared
  shuttle into town.
  Beyond Con Son Town
  Hike through forest and along deserted beaches, dive in gin-clear
  waters, and head off on two wheels for independent exploration.
  For many Vietnamese travellers, including a dwindling number of former
  soldiers and revolutionaries who were imprisoned on the island, Con Son
  town’s prison compounds and museums are an essential pilgrimage, but beyond
  the capital’s sleepy charms and historical attractions, it’s the dazzling natural
  beauty of the archipelago which also makes the Con Dao Islands such a
  compelling destination. It’s one of the safer places in the country to ride a
  scooter – often against a background of stellar island scenery – and for active
  travellers, well-marked hiking trails fan out from near the national park HQ to
  ramble to remote lookouts and hidden beaches. Exploring on or under the water
  is also very popular.
  Con Dao islands | GAALLASZLO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  TOP TIP
  Before heading off on a hike, stock up on banh mi and fresh fruit at Con Son town’s morning
  market.
  MOTORBIKES, BIKES & BEACHES
  With less traffic and good roads, Con Son island is perfect for riding a motorbikes or
  bicycles. One main road connects the airport to Ben Dam harbour via Con Son town. This
  sealed road is being extended along Con Son’s western and northern coasts, but it’s
  currently not possible to do a full island loop.
  Reached via a dirt track 1km before the airport, Bai Dram Trau beach is a sublime
  crescent bookended by rocky promontories. Visit at low tide. There’s snorkelling on
  offshore reefs, and seafood shacks from noon to dusk. From the sandy arc of Bai Vong in
  the northeast, a trail leads to the Dam Tre (Bamboo Lagoon). Other beaches include Bai
  An Hai, the best option for swimming if you’re staying in town.
  Get Active by Hiking
  SUPERB FOREST AND OCEAN VIEWS
  There are plenty of good hikes on Con Son Island. Obtain a permit at the
  national park HQ, 2.5km inland behind Con Son town and best reached by
  scooter or bicycle. The office can usually supply a handout on island walks, and
  several hiking trails have interpretive signage in English. Many paths are paved
  but can be slippery after rain. Wearing good hiking shoes is recommended.
  Options include a steep hike to the old fruit plantations of So Ray, following
  a well-marked trail through dense rainforest. The former plantation buildings
  are now home to long-tailed macaques (keep your distance and don’t feed
  them). Two lookout towers offer sweeping views over Con Son town to other
  islands beyond. The trailhead for the return hike – around 1½ to two hours – is
  on Huynh Thuc Khang, southwest of the national park HQ. Other hikes
  beginning near the national park HQ include a three- to four-hour return hike to
  Dat Tham beach.
  Beginning from near the airport runway, a beautiful walk leads through forest
  and mangroves, and past a hilltop stream to Bamboo Lagoon (Dam Tre).
  There’s good snorkelling and you may encounter black squirrels and monkeys
  en route. Note the first part of the walk along Bai Vong beach is open and
  exposed to the sun. Count on around five hours return.
  Bai Dram Trau | TRAN QUI THINH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  WHERE TO DRINK IN CON SON
  Infiniti Cafe & Resto
  Cold beers, cocktails, and the best burgers and wood-fired pizza in town.
  Phien Khuc
  Coffee, juices and snacks served in a charming garden setting adorned with heritage bric-abrac.
  Bar200
  Cold beers, comfortable bean bags and good pizza. Home base for the Con Dao Dive Center.
  ISLAND BOAT TRIPS
  Boat trips to other smaller islands are popular around Con Dao. Bay Canh, east of Con
  Son Island has lovely beaches, old-growth forest, mangroves, coral reefs and sea turtles
  (seasonal). There is a fantastic two-hour walk to a functioning French-era lighthouse on
  Bay Canh’s eastern tip, although it involves a steep climb of 325m. Once at the summit,
  the panoramic views are breathtaking.
  Drop by the national park HQ north of Con Son town for information about joining a turtlewatching
  tour to see nesting sea turtles from late June to September. Note that some
  environmentalists in Con Dao recommend that travellers do not join turtle tours in protest
  at what they see as the inaction of national park staff in protecting nesting turtles, and
  their eggs, from poachers.
  Diving & Snorkelling Con Dao
  REEFS AND WRECKS IN A MARINE PARK
  Experienced divers who know the waters of Vietnam have traditionally
  regarded Con Dao as one of the more pristine marine environment in the
  country. The waters around the islands are officially protected, and there’s
  abundant healthy coral with table, staghorn and brain coral all in evidence.
  Marine life includes green and hawksbill turtles, rays, triggerfish, parrotfish,
  groupers, cuttlefish and the odd shark.
  However, official protection of the ocean around the archipelago is weak.
  Some boat skippers still anchor directly on the reef, illegal fishing affects fish
  numbers, and the islands’ dive operator regularly clears nets and garbage from
  reefs.
  Year-round diving is possible, but February to June offers the best conditions
  and good visibility. November and December can see big storms. Rates are
  more expensive than at mainland destinations, but the experience can also be
  more rewarding. Wrecks offer huge potential for more experienced divers,
  including a 65m freighter resting in 30m to 40m with abundant sea life.
  Based at Bar 200, the Con Dao Dive Center (divecondao.com) offers PADI
  instruction and courses, fun dives, snorkelling and free-diving trips. Cheaper
  snorkelling excursions are offered by some hotels and freelance guides, but
  we’ve heard reports of illegal spearfishing on some of these trips. Going with
  the Con Dao Dive Center may cost more, but experiences will be more
  environmentally sound.
  GETTING AROUND
  Scooters and bicycles can be hired at many hotels around Con Son town. A good coastal
  route goes from Con Son town south to Bai Nhat and on to Ben Dam. The ups and downs
  are pretty gentle, but be careful of high winds around Mui Ca Map (south of Con Son
  town).
  To join a boat tour exploring other islands, ask at the national park HQ north of Con Son
  town, or swing by the Lighthouse Trip Con Dao
  (facebook.com/congtydulichlighthouse.condao) office at 12A Ð Le Duan. Most
  accommodation operators can also make recommendations and book day trips on the
  water.
  CHAU DOC
  Chau Doc sees plenty of travellers exploring the town before catching a
  speedboat along the Mekong River linking Cambodia and Vietnam. A likeable
  city with significant Chinese, Cham and Khmer communities, Chau Doc’s
  cultural diversity makes it fascinating to explore even if you’re not bound for
  Cambodia. Taking a boat trip to discover the river or visiting the mosques and
  textile workshops of local Cham Muslim communities are both recommended,
  while day-trip journeys to Nui Sam (Sam Mountain) and the Tra Su Cajuput
  Forest are essential diversions after a relaxing day exploring Chau Doc’s
  intriguing waterfront. Sunset drinks in the stylish riverfront bar at the Victoria
  Chau Doc Hotel is the ideal way to complete a day in the city, while Victoria’s
  brace of accommodation options in the area – also including Victoria Nui Sam
  Lodge – are two of the Mekong Delta’s best places to stay.
  SIGHTS
  1 30 Thang 4 Park
  2 Chau Doc Floating Market
  3 Chau Phu Temple
  4 Mubarak Mosque
  5 Vinh Te Canal
  EATING
  6 Chau Doc Covered Market
  7 Hang Chau Speedboat
  TOP TIP
  Chau Doc’s riverfront and city centre is walkable, but exploring with a knowledgeable local
  guide or taking advantage of taxi or motorbike transport is essential for experiencing Sam
  Mountain. To explore the river, join a boat trip or go on a guided tour leaving from 30 Thang 4
  Park.
  BEST PLACES TO EAT IN CHAU DOC
  Bassac Restaurant
  Elegant riverside dining blending French and Vietnamese flavours at the Victoria Chau Doc
  Hotel. $$
  Thanh Tinh
  Bargain-priced vegetarian dishes including lemongrass tofu and garlic-infused morning
  glory. $
  Chau Doc Covered Market
  Local specialties including bun ca (fish noodle soup) and chuoi nep nuong (grilled
  glutinous rice with banana). $
  Chau Doc Hoi Quan
  Signature dishes from An Giang province including tung lo mo (fermented beef sausage).
  Good lau (hotpot) for groups. $
  Markets, Fish Farms & Twilight Boat Trips
  EXPLORING A FASCINATING RIVERFRONT
  Draped along the banks of the Hau Giang (Bassac) River, Chau Doc
  celebrates one of the Mekong Delta’s most interesting riverside locations.
  Stretching northwest from the Victoria Chau Doc Hotel, 30 Thang 4 Park is
  the city’s main promenading spot and a superlative area for river gazing. Further
  along Duong Gia Long, Chau Doc’s covered market is a sprawling affair
  selling the bounty of the delta and beyond. Women may approach you in 30
  Thang 4 Park offering rides in small boats. Destinations include a community of
  floating houses on the opposite side of the river. These rustic houses, the floats
  of which consist of empty metal drums, are both a place to live and a livelihood
  for their residents. Under each house, fish are raised in suspended metal nets.
  The fish flourish in their natural river habitat, while local families fatten them
  up for eventual sale into international markets. Some boat trips include a
  journey along the Vinh Te Canal, running near the Cambodian border, and
  eventually linking to Ha Tien. Consider taking a boat trip around an hour before
  dusk to return to Chau Doc’s waterfront as an inky twilight begins to settle.
  Previously, Chau Doc had a popular floating market, but better road transport
  links and the impact of Covid-19 means it is no longer operating.
  WHERE TO STAY IN CHAU DOC
  Victoria Chau Doc Hotel
  Luxurious colonial charm and a riverside location combine for Chau Doc’s finest
  accommodation. $$$
  Homestay Khoa Chaudoc
  Look forward to a convenient central location at Chau Doc’s friendliest family-owned
  homestay. $
  Murray Guesthouse
  Travel advice aplenty and free use of bicycles at this Kiwi-Vietnamese-owned guesthouse. $$
  Temples, Pagodas & Mosques
  DIVERSE CULTURE AND RELIGION
  As a border city near the historic confluence of cultures and countries, Chau
  Doc has a diverse faith-based architectural heritage. On the outskirts of the city,
  the temples and pagodas of Sam Mountain (Nui Sam) attract many Buddhist
  pilgrims, while another more centrally located temple is also a popular
  destination. Just a stone’s throw from the waterfront, Chau Phu Temple was
  built in 1926 to worship the Nguyen dynasty official Thoai Ngoc Hau, buried at
  Sam Mountain. The vibrant yellow structure is decorated with both Vietnamese
  and Chinese motifs; inside are funeral tablets bearing the names of deceased
  from local families as well as biographical information about them. There’s also
  a shrine to Ho Chi Minh.
  To experience the region’s Cham heritage, visit the pastel-coloured Mubarak
  Mosque on the riverbank opposite Chau Doc. Local Cham Muslim children
  study the Quran in Arabic script, and village workshops sell colourful and
  finely woven textiles. Avoid entering during the calls to prayer unless you are a
  Muslim. To get here, take the car ferry from Chau Giang ferry landing across
  the Hau Giang River. From the ferry landing, it’s a short walk. Chau Doc tours
  with Ms San from Mekong Chau Doc Travel explore a different, less visited
  Cham village.
  GETTING TO CAMBODIA
  Getting to the border
  Companies in Chau Doc sell speedboat journeys from Chau Doc along the Mekong River
  to Phnom Penh via the Vinh Xuong border. Visit the riverfront location of Hang Chau
  Speedboat (hangchautourist.vn) to book a departure leaving Chau Doc at 7.30am. Boats
  linking Phnom Penh to Chau Doc depart Phnom Penh’s Sisowath Quay at 12.30pm.
  Another more expensive option is on the Victoria Speedboat departing near the Victoria
  Chau Doc Hotel. Book at the hotel.
  At the border
  Arrange a Cambodian e-visa online in advance or obtain a visa on arrival at the Cambodian
  border. If you’re travelling from Cambodia to Vietnam, you’ll need to arrange a Vietnamese
  border in advance.
  WHERE TO DRINK IN CHAU DOC
  Tan Chau Salon Bar
  Cocktails and craft beers amid the Indochine-era elegance of the bar at the Victoria Chau Doc
  Hotel.
  Boke Station
  Artisan coffee and cold beers combine in a contemporary reimagining of a heritage
  shophouse.
  Cafe Goc Pho
  Fruit juices, coffee and bubble teas team with street-side tables. Also Chau Doc’s cheapest
  cocktails.
  Sam Mountain | VIETNGUYEN1234/SHUTTERSTOCKK ©
  Temples, Pagodas & Superb Vistas
  AN IMPORTANT PLACE OF PILGRIMAGE
  A sacred place for Buddhists, Sam Mountain (Nui Sam; 284m) is crammed
  with pagodas and temples. A strong Chinese influence makes it popular with
  ethnic Chinese, but Buddhists of all ethnicities visit. Weather permitting, views
  from the summit extend into Cambodia. Join a tour or hire a xe om (motorbike
  taxi) from Chau Doc (around 6km). Make the 45-minute walk up the
  mountain’s sealed road or get dropped at the summit.
  Founded in 1847 on the site of an earlier shrine, Tay An Pagoda is located at
  the foot of the mountain at the terminus of Hwy 91, the impressive boulevard
  leading from Chau Doc. Eclectic architecture reflects Hindu and Islamic
  influences, while its main gate is traditionally Vietnamese.
  Housing a statue worshipped by a popular cult, the Temple of Lady Xu faces
  Sam Mountain on the same road as Tay An Pagoda. Originally a simple affair of
  bamboo and leaves, the ostentatious rebuilt temple now blends mid-20thcentury
  design with Vietnamese motifs and a contemporary overload of flashing
  lights and pulsating neon.
  Offering superb views of the countryside, the Cavern (Hang) Pagoda is
  halfway up the mountain’s western (far) side. The pagoda’s lower part includes
  monks’ quarters and the hexagonal tombs of the pagoda’s two founders. On-site
  maps demonstrate how best to negotiate the main sanctuary and a labyrinth of
  caverns and grottoes heading further uphill.
  Floating houses | PHUONG D.NGUYEN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  SLEEPING ON SAM MOUNTAIN
  On the slopes of Sam Mountain, Victoria Nui Sam Lodge wouldn’t look out of place in the
  European Alps. Rooms are furnished with four-poster beds and include huge balconies
  with views over the rice fields. Early morning yoga sessions and two-hour treks taking in
  Sam Mountain’s temples and pagodas can both be arranged. Check online for surprisingly
  affordable room rates, especially on weekdays and outside of holiday periods.
  The lodge’s spacious La Giang restaurant – segueing to an expansive terrace – is open
  to outside guests for lunch, dinner and snacks.
  GETTING AROUND
  Chau Doc’s bus station is on the eastern edge of town around 2km out of the centre.
  Frequent destinations with the Phuong Trang (www.futabus.vn) and Hung Cuong bus
  companies include Can Tho, Cao Lanh and Rach Gia. Smaller minibuses make the regular
  three-hour run to Ha Tien. Book tickets in advance through your accommodation and ask
  about shuttle transport to the bus station.
  Beyond Chau Doc
  Journey from Chau Doc to a beautiful wildlife haven and a contemplative
  memorial commemorating a recent historical tragedy.
  Two very different destinations are the most popular day excursions from Chau
  Doc’s bustling location on the Hau Giang (Bassac) River. First opened in 1986,
  the Tra Su Cajuput Forest was established after migratory birds including
  herons and egrets spontaneously arrived to settle in cajuput and melaleuca trees
  planted to improve the quality of area’s water for rice cultivation. Emeraldgreen
  rice paddies still frame the sanctuary, but the singular focus at Tra Su is
  on the many bird species that call its riverine wonderland home. Also southwest
  of Chau Doc, the Ba Chuc Memorial remembers local Vietnamese villagers
  tragically killed by the Khmer Rouge on cross-border raids from Cambodia in
  1978.
  Tra Su Cajuput Forest | DZUNG VU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  TOP TIP
  Get an early start from Chau Doc when visiting Tra Su as birds are more active in the morning
  and there is less boat traffic.
  A Relaxing Natural Haven
  BOATING THROUGH DAZZLING BIRDLIFE
  Around 23km west of Chau Doc, the immense 800,000-hectare Tra Su
  Cajuput Forest is home to an astounding number of wading birds. Much of the
  wetland is off-limits to visitors so that the birds’ breeding grounds are not
  disturbed. Visits include two key elements, a ride in a motorboat along riverine
  avenues framed by trees and through a floating carpet of lotus plants, and also a
  tranquil 20-minute paddle along narrow channels through a gnarled sunken
  forest landscape. Local women paddle the boats through this verdant natural
  labyrinth, and a tip is both appreciated and deserved. Spindly bamboo bridges
  and elevated walking trails also provide an excellent way to experience the
  sanctuary. Birds regularly seen include kingfishers, herons and egrets, and
  cormorants.
  A good time to visit Tra Su is from December to January, when the chicks
  hatch, and there’s a bigger migratory bird population. The rainy season from
  July to October sees relatively fewer birds, but the forest landscape at this time
  of the year is brilliantly illuminated with many shades of green.
  Tra Su Cajuput Forest | XUANHUONGHO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  I LIVE HERE: CHAU DOC’S ESSENTIAL NATURAL
  HIGHLIGHTS
  Huynh Phi San (‘Ms San’) from Mekong Chau Doc Travel
  (www.mekongchaudoctravel.com) shares why she’s a proud born and bred Chau Doc
  local.
  Sam Mountain
  People from all around Vietnam come to pray in the temples and pagodas of Chau Doc’s
  most historic place. From the top, I love the views of my hometown and the delta, and
  sunset from the terrace restaurant of the Victoria Nui Sam Lodge is always special.
  Tra Su Cajuput Forest
  Tra Su’s much newer than Sam Mountain, but its dense green forests and mangrove-lined
  waterways are just as spectacular. My favourite part is drifting along in a small boat being
  paddled silently by one of the friendly local women.
  WHAT BIRD SPECIES TO SEE IN TRA SU
  Kingfishers
  Watch out for a turquoise flash entering the water.
  Herons & egrets
  High in the trees and the most elegant of Tra Su’s avian residents.
  Cormorants
  Look for them perched on tree branches while drying their impressive wingspans.
  THE KHMER ROUGE’S LEGACY IN VIETNAM
  Between 1975 and 1978 Khmer Rouge soldiers regularly crossed the border into Vietnam
  and slaughtered innocent civilians. Over the border, things were even worse, with nearly
  two million Cambodians killed during the period of Pol Pot’s Democratic Kampuchea
  regime. Ba Chuc is 4km south of the road running parallel to the Cambodian border
  between Ha Tien and Chau Doc. The site was extensively renovated to mark the 40-year
  commemoration of the massacre in 2018, and is most conveniently visited as a day trip
  from Chau Doc, around 40km to the north.
  Remembering Recent Tragedies
  AN ESSENTIAL AND MOVING TESTIMONY
  Ba Chuc Memorial stands as a reminder of the horrors perpetrated by the
  Khmer Rouge. Between 18 April and 30 April 1978, the Khmer Rouge crossed
  the Vietnam–Cambodia border to kill 3157 villagers here, leaving only two
  survivors.
  The memorial consists of two parts: the ossuary housing the skulls and bones
  of more than 1100 victims, and the adjacent memorial room displaying postmassacre
  photos. In the ossuary, designed to resemble a flowering lotus, the
  skulls and bones are divided by age group (including the tiny skulls of toddlers
  and babies) and by gender. This collection resembles Cambodia’s Choeung Ek
  killing fields, where thousands of skulls of Khmer Rouge victims are displayed.
  With a well-defined area to leave offerings, Ba Chuc’s shrine of
  remembrance is a calming and contemplative space compared to the
  confronting display next door. The memorial room features the weapons used
  by the Khmer Rouge, including knives, bayonets and cudgels, and also sticks
  used to torture women. Many Ba Chuc victims were tortured to death, and the
  images are profoundly confronting.
  Behind the memorial room, the lower walls of Phi Lai Tu Temple are still
  stained dark with the blood of the slain; more than 300 villagers were
  slaughtered inside. The Vietnamese government had multiple motives for
  invading Cambodia in 1978, but outrage at the Ba Chuc massacre was a major
  contributing factor.
  GETTING AROUND
  Tra Su is most conveniently visited by taxi from Chau Doc, and on guided motorbike tours
  with Ms San at Mekong Chau Doc Travel. Two-wheeled journeys from Chau Doc to the
  sanctuary negotiate rural backroads and cross quiet bridges to finally enter the forest
  along a elevated narrow causeway framed by rice paddies. Note that on public holidays,
  Tra Su is very busy with domestic tourists. Private transport from either Chau Doc (45km)
  or Ha Tien (65km) is the only way to visit Ba Chuc Memorial.
  HA TIEN
  Ha Tien is part of the Mekong Delta, but its location on the southeastern edge of
  the Gulf of Thailand is very different from a flatland world of rivers, canals and
  rice paddies. Dramatic limestone formations punctuate the area, pepper tree
  plantations cling to hillsides, and on a clear day it’s easy to make out Phu Quoc
  Island on the western horizon.
  The town itself has a languid charm, with crumbling colonial villas, a
  colourful riverside market and a newer section of town best seen at night when
  it is draped in shimmering neon. For travellers heading to Cambodia, it’s just a
  short cross-border journey to Kep or Kampot, and a daily flotilla of ferries
  leaves Ha Tien’s riverfront heading for dynamic and increasingly popular Phu
  Quoc Island. With none of the impetuous development being seen on its much
  larger neighbour, an alternative island destination also reached from Ha Tien is
  far more relaxed.
  SIGHTS
  1 Mac Cuu Family Tombs
  2 Ngoc Tien Monastery
  3 Phu Dung Pagoda
  4 Riverside Park
  5 Tam Bao Pagoda
  DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
  6 Coffee Dong Ho
  7 Mekong Cafe
  SHOPPING
  8 Ha Tien Market
  TOP TIP
  Ha Tien’s breezy riverfront is a pleasant place to stroll and explore. From the town’s interesting
  riverfront market, it’s around 1.5km west along an oceanfront esplanade to neon-lit cafes,
  seafood restaurant, and the second of Ha Tien’s two night markets. You’ll need to arrange a
  taxi or motorbike to visit Thach Dong Cave Pagoda.
  OASIS BAR & HOMESTAY
  Contact Ha Tien’s longstanding resident expat Andy and his Vietnamese wife Queyn at the
  Oasis Bar & Homestay (0297-370 1553, oasisbarhatien@hotmail.com) for the latest on
  travelling between Ha Tien and Cambodia. Relocated in late 2022, the bar and homestay
  is now located 3km from Ha Tien en route to Rach Gia and features comfortable rooms
  and a welcoming cafe that’s an essential travellers’ hub in this part of the Mekong Delta.
  Andy can also arrange transport and tours with Ha Tien–based Mr The.
  The Delta’s Most Relaxed Town
  COOL BREEZES AND COLONIAL BUILDINGS
  Begin an exploration of Ha Tien’s riverfront at the town’s market, bordered by
  the Giang Thanh River flowing sleepily into the Gulf of Thailand. Upstream,
  just north of a canal which flows eastwards all the way to Rach Gia, the river
  widens out to form Dong Ho (East Lake), actually an inlet of the sea which
  becomes a shimmering expanse when there is a full moon. At their busiest from
  around 5am, Ha Tien’s markets are a well-organised affair with four separate
  buildings housing dry goods, fish, vegetables and meat, and also an adjacent
  night market selling cheap clothing. From around 6pm, food stalls set up near
  this more centrally located night market. Around the market, backstreets reveal
  heritage shopfronts daubed in pastel colours.
  From the markets, continue along Ɖ Tran Hau, a busy commercial street
  with snacking opportunities including banh mi (filled baguettes) and steamed
  xiu mai (dumplings). Just after Ɖ Thuy Tram, the street segues to a riverside
  park. Across the river is the Ngoc Tien Monastery, sprawling up the hill and
  providing the monks with some of the best views in town.
  Tombs, Temples & Pagodas
  EXPLORING THE REGIONS HISTORIC LEGACY
  From Ha Tien’s languid river front, explore Ha Tien’s historic tombs and
  temples. Centrally located are the Mac Cuu family tombs, known locally as
  Nui Lang (the Hill of the Tombs). Mac Cuu, a Khmer-appointed 18th-century
  Chinese governor, and several dozen of his relatives are buried here. Nearby,
  Tam Bao Pagoda was founded by Mac Cuu and is home to Buddhist nuns. In
  front of the many-tiered pagoda is a statue of Quan The Am Bo Tat (the
  Goddess of Mercy). Within the sanctuary and made of painted brass, the largest
  statue represents A Di Da (Buddha of the Past).
  Around 800m northwest from Tam Bao, Phu Dung Pagoda was founded in
  the mid-18th century by Nguyen Thi Xuan. Her tomb and that of one of her
  female servants are on the hillside behind the pagoda. Inside the pagoda’s main
  hall, the most notable statue on the central dais is a bronze Thich Ca Buddha
  from China. From Phu Dong, it’s 3km north to Thach Dong Cave Pagoda, a
  distance best covered by motorbike. Scramble through the cave chambers to see
  the funerary tablets and altars to Ngoc Hoang, Quan The Am Bo Tat and the
  two Buddhist monks who founded the temples of the pagoda. Transport can be
  hard to find this far north of town, so ask your driver to wait.
  Ngoc Tien Monastery | MICHELLE HOLIHAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  GET TO KNOW MR THE
  To best gain an understanding of Ha Tien’s historic and cultural legacy, hook up with the
  inimitable Mr The (pronounced ‘tay’), an experienced guide who runs day and half-day
  tours from the back of his motorbike. Mr The speaks excellent English and can meet at
  short notice to discuss what and where you’re keen on exploring. He can also arrange bus
  tickets and motorbike transfers to the bus station. The best way to contact Mr The is
  through Andy at the Oasis Bar & Homestay.
  WHERE TO STAY IN HA TIEN
  Bao Anh Motel
  River views and a location near the market add up to the best value in town. $
  Visuha Hotel
  The newest accommodation in Ha Tien includes a rooftop swimming pool, huge rooms and a
  buffet breakfast. $$
  Ha Tien Homestay
  Simple, stylish rooms in a mainly residential neighbourhood. It’s a short walk to the riverfront
  for a coffee. $
  WHERE TO EAT IN HA TIEN
  Night market
  Fresh seafood, lau (hotpot) restaurants and a scattering of street food stalls. $
  Quan Hai San Bo Ke
  Chilled Saigon bia combines with fresh seafood – including mini-mountains of shellfish – and
  river views. $
  Quan Thanh Thuy
  Family-run joint dispensing excellent hu tieu mi ga (chicken noodle soup) and thicker udon-like
  banh canh noodles. $
  Discovering an Island of Pirates
  VENTURE TO A SLEEPY ESCAPE
  Covered in lush vegetation and surrounded by clear waters, the island of Hai
  Tac has a 500-year history as a pirate haven which only ended when Vietnam
  was reunified in 1975. Today’s inhabitants are more likely to be fishing
  families, and with a few simple guesthouses and homestays, the compact islet
  also known as Pirate Island is a relaxing escape just one hour from the
  mainland on ferries departing from Ha Tien. Besides around 2000 inhabitants
  living in four scrappy fishing villages, there’s also a hilltop army base keeping a
  vigilant eye out on Cambodia.
  A paved 5km motorbike trail circles the island, and there’s also a good hike
  to a hilltop temple for excellent views. Located on on the northern coast, Hai
  Tac’s best beach is Bai Bac where beach shacks serve up grilled seafood. It’s
  sometimes possible to go out with local fishermen or arrange a boat trip to
  another nearby uninhabited island.
  Change is definitely coming – 24-hour electricity from the mainland has been
  installed – and Vietnamese developers are considering building more substantial
  accomodation beyond rustic homestays. A rushed day trip from Ha Tien with
  Minh Nga is possible, but Hai Tac’s relaxed appeal is best experienced on an
  overnight stay.
  For travel to Hai Tac, the rainy season from June to October can produce
  rough seas, and ferries can be temporarily suspended.
  MICHAEL WAPP/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  GETTING TO CAMBODIA: HA TIEN TO KEP
  Getting to the border
  Travelling from Ha Tien to Cambodia involves a taxi or motorbike taxi to the Xa Xia–Prek
  Chak border, crossing the border on foot, and then continuing to Kep or Kampot by taxi,
  tuk tuk or motorbike. At the time of writing there were no direct cross-border bus services
  into Cambodia. Pending an increase in traveller numbers that may change; contact Andy
  at the Oasis Bar & Homestay for the latest.
  At the border
  Arrange a Cambodian e-visa online or get one on arrival at the border. If you’re travelling
  from Cambodia to Vietnam, arrange a Vietnamese visa in advance.
  The Cambodia taxi “mafia” have a reputation for ripping off travellers with excessive bus
  fares, ‘misunderstandings’ about taxi prices and money-changing scams.
  GETTING AROUND
  Ha Tien’s modern bus station is 1.5km south of the main bridge into the city. Frequent
  departures include HCMC, Can Tho, Chau Doc and Rach Gia. Passenger ferries to Phu
  Quoc Island with Phu Quoc Express and Superdong leave from across the bridge on the
  river’s southern side. Bikes and motorbikes can be taken with Phu Quoc Express, but not
  with Superdong. Slower car ferries operated by Than Thoi and Binh An depart from nearer
  the bridge. Also leaving across the river are Minh Nga’s boats to Pirate Island (Hai Tac).
  Signs at the port indicate departures to Tien Hai or Dao Hai Tac, both alternative names
  for Pirate Island. Schedules are flexible, especially outside of weekends and during
  November to April. Ask accommodation to check on departure times and book tickets.
  PHU QUOC ISLAND
  Fringed by white-sand beaches and with large tracts still cloaked in tropical
  jungle, Phu Quoc has rapidly morphed from a sleepy backwater into one of
  Asia’s travel hot spots. Along Phu Quoc’s central west coast, around Duong
  Dong and Long Beach is the traditional area for restaurants, hotels and resorts –
  many with oceanfront access – but beyond this relatively low-key area that
  kicked off Phu Quoc’s tourism scene less than two decades ago, impressive
  mega-projects are now transforming both the north and south of the island. A
  world-beating cable car, theme parks and an ostentatious architectural style
  seemingly with its roots in southern Italy have changed Phu Quoc forever, and
  its humble roots as a relaxed backpacker escape have been well and truly
  jettisoned. Elements from earlier decades do linger, especially along the island’s
  easy-going east coast, but Phu Quoc’s contemporary appeal is now far more
  glitzy, energetic and family-friendly.
  SIGHTS
  1 An Thoi Islands
  2 Aquatopia Water Park
  3 Cay Sao Beach
  4 Emerald Bay
  5 Gam Ghi Islandl
  6 Hiep Phong Fish Sauce Factory
  7 Ho Quoc Pagoda
  8 Hon Thom
  see 11 Khu Rung Nguyen Sinh
  9 May Rut Trong
  10 Pepper Plantation
  11 Phu Quoc National Park
  12 Phu Quoc Prison
  13 Sao Beach
  ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS
  14 Hon Thom Cable Car
  SLEEPING
  15 Jade Mountain Resort & Bar
  16 Pier Resort
  DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
  17 Rory’s Bar
  18 Thom Beach Bar
  TRANSPORT
  19 Bai Vong Ferry Terminal
  TOP TIP
  Accommodation and restaurants have traditionally lined the central part of Phu Quoc’s west
  coast, and the area stretching north and south of Duong Dong is still a popular place to eat,
  drink and stay. Spectacular and more recent developments are focused on the north and
  south of the island.
  AN ISLAND OF TWO HALVES
  Welcome to an island of two halves. In the south of Phu Quoc, Vietnam’s Sun Group are
  responsible for the Hon Thom Cable Car, Aquatopia Waterpark and Emerald Bay, while in
  the north the massive Vinpearl group dominates. Attractions include VinPearl Land, a
  Vietnamese version of Disneyland (Visneyland?), and an array of family-oriented resorts
  and hotels. It’s just a short drive to VinPearl Safari, a wildlife park that features a diverse
  menagerie of animals including giraffes, elephants, rhinos and lemurs. The newest
  addition to Vinpearl’s plans to transform northern Phu Quoc into a Vietnamese version of
  Macau or Singapore’s Sentosa Island is Grand World Phu Quoc. Canals – complete with
  gondolas – and three shopping and entertainment precincts are open around the clock.
  Phu Quoc’s Most Popular Day Trip
  SWIMMING, SNORKELLING AND A SUPERB WATER PARK
  Exploring the An Thoi Islands at the southern tip of Phu Quoc is popular for
  many visitors. Experiences with operators including John’s Tours
  (phuquoctrip.com) include shared transport from your accommodation to the
  ferry port at An Thoi. A mini-armada of boats then sets out to explore, first
  sailing under the soaring Hon Thom Cable Car linking Phu Quoc to Hon
  Thom (Pineapple Island), and then on to Gam Ghi Island, framed by rocky
  coves and with snorkelling available on a coral reef a few hundred metres
  offshore. Unfortunately fish stocks are low on the reef, but it’s still a pleasant
  place to swim. From Gam Ghi, boats usually continue on to May Rut Trong
  Island, the most developed of the compact islets south of Hon Thom. Rustic
  cafes and restaurants line a compact cove and watersports including kayaking
  and paddleboarding are available. During Phu Quoc’s peak season from
  November to April, the island can get very busy, but it’s easy enough to walk a
  few bays around the shore for a more private swim. After a seafood lunch back
  on the boat, John’s Tours’ most popular trips then continue to Hon Thom Island
  to spend time at the sprawling Aquatopia Waterpark before catching the cable
  bar back to An Thoi on Phu Quoc. Other popular boat trips include sunset
  cruises and after-dark squid fishing.
  WHERE TO STAY ON PHU QUOC ISLAND
  Cassia Cottage
  Garden cottages and luxe sea-view suites combine with the excellent Spice House restaurant.
  $$
  La Veranda
  French colonial style and beachside elegance at one of Phu Quoc’s original – and still excellent
  – luxury resorts. $$$
  Mango Bay
  Refreshingly low-key bungalows on a compact cove accessed through a mango grove.
  Excellent restaurant and spa. $$
  Island Discoveries
  PAGODAS, PEPPER FARMS AND A NATIONAL PARK
  Options to explore Phu Quoc beyond the beaches and the big developments on
  the north and south of the island include hiring a motorbike and venturing
  independently into the forested interior of Phu Quoc National Park, or joining a
  guided experience with John’s Tours (phuquoctrip.com). Full-day trips take in
  a well-established path focusing on the island’s culture and history. Stops on
  well-organised tours with English-speaking guides include spectacular Ho
  Quoc Pagoda on the island’s southeast coast, built in 2012, and offering some
  of the best temple views in Vietnam, as well as the former Phu Quoc Prison, a
  harsh and notorious facility built by the French in the 1940s. A pepper
  plantation and Phu Quoc’s famous Fish Sauce Factory reflect the island’s
  commercial and trading past, and around Vietnam Phu Quoc is famous for its
  excellent fish sauce.
  Trips with Jerry’s Jungle Tours (jerrystours.com) are more active and
  personalised with options including jungle walks, motorbike tours, birdwatching
  and bouldering in dry riverbeds.
  Regarded as last large stand of forest in southern Vietnam, Phu Quoc
  National Park covers around 70% of the island, and was declared a Unesco
  Biosphere Reserve in 2010. The forest is densest in the Khu Rung Nguyen
  Sinh forest reserve in northern Phu Quoc; you’ll need a motorbike or mountain
  bike to tackle the bumpy dirt roads that cut through it. There are no real hiking
  trails.
  May Rut Trong Island | JIMMY TRAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  CABLE CAR & WATERPARK THRILLS
  Touted as the world’s longest over-sea cable car (7.9km), the 25-minute trip linking An
  Thoi to Hon Thom Island takes in spectacular natural views of surrounding islands and
  Phu Quoc’s traditional fishing boats, but also vistas of the extreme architectural makeover
  transforming this southern part of the island. The embarkation point at An Thoi is
  designed like a faux Italian town – think Venice meets Positano with a dash of Rome – and
  arriving at Hon Thom offers views of a massive complex of residential villas also being
  developed. Almost dwarfed by the cable car’s infrastructure, Hon Thom’s Aquatopia
  Waterpark has around 20 different attractions from the Lost Lagoon lazy river to the
  thrilling Snake Fight water slide. Return cable car tickets include unlimited rides and
  experiences at Aquatopia.
  East Coast Exploring
  PHU QUOC’S MORE RELAXED SIDE
  Development is increasing on many parts of Phu Quoc’s coastline, but more
  remote beaches on the island’s eastern coast are still quiet and worth visiting.
  Beach-hopping Phu Quoc is best undertaken by a rented motorbike or scooter.
  Located on the northeast tip of the island, Thom Beach (Bai Thom) has
  rustic restaurants serving fresh seafood for lunch, midrange accommodation at
  the Luna Beach guesthouse, and hammocks, grilled squid and cold beers at the
  Thom Beach Bar. Continuing south down the east coast road – completed in
  2019 and inevitably driving development in this more isolated part of the island
  – Bai Bon is still undeveloped, and sandy paths lead to rocky beaches with
  views of fishing boats and floating fish farms.
  Around 5km further south, Cay Sao Beach begins, and its northern edges are
  developing as an alternative to the busy accommodation and restaurant scene
  around Duong Dong and Long Beach on Phu Quoc’s west coast. Local
  standouts include Rory’s Beach Bar, the overwater bungalows at the Pier
  Resort, and hillside cottages and swimming pool at Jade Mountain Resort &
  Bar.
  South from Cay Sao, the east coast road continues past the Bai Vong Ferry
  Terminal and the hilltop location of Ho Quoc Pagoda, before being greeted by
  the arcing sandy curve of Sao Beach, one of the island’s best beaches. Just
  south of Sao Beach is the sprawling Emerald Bay development with luxury
  hotels and row upon row of residential villas.
  Cay Sao Beach | LOCHUYNH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  BEST PLACES TO EAT ON PHU QUOC
  The Home Pizza
  Innovative Asian-inspired pizza, Vietnamese craft beer and heady cocktails. $$
  Saigonese
  Fusion re-imaginings of traditional Asian flavours. Try the prawn ceviche with chilli and
  mint. $$
  Crab House
  Premium Phu Quoc seafood with a Cajun influence from the Vietnamese-American chefowner.
  $$$
  Spice House at Cassia Cottage
  Excellent pan-Southeast Asian dishes with a side order of superb west coast sunsets. $$
  Troc’s Kitchen
  Fun-filled cooking classes conclude with a shared meal of Vietnamese classics. $$
  WHERE TO DRINK ON PHU QUOC
  Bittersweet
  Classy cocktail bar behind a discreet entrance along Duong Dong’s main drag.
  Rory’s Beach Bar
  Frosty beers, pizza and mini-golf in a brilliant beachside location on Phu Quoc’s quieter east
  coast.
  OCSEN Beach Bar & Club
  Bean bags, cool cocktails and chilled beats combine for Instagram reels and relaxed west
  coast sunsets.
  GETTING AROUND
  Phu Quoc is linked by Superdong and Phu Quoc Express ferries from Ha Tien and Rach
  Gia. All ferries arrive at the Bai Vong Ferry Terminal on the island’s southeast coast. There
  are regular domestic flights from Can Tho, HCMC, Danang and Hanoi, with international
  flights from Seoul, New Delhi and Bangkok at the time of writing. Expect the range of
  international destinations to increase.
  At 580 sq km, Phu Quoc is Vietnam’s biggest island. Get around with the Grab rideshare
  app for taxi and motorbikes. Reliable Mai Linh taxis are also available and scooters can be
  hired. Beyond the central west coast and northern and southern areas, scooters are a
  good option for exploring the less-developed east coast, and also for venturing to Phu
  Quoc’s more rugged forested interior.
  Beyond Phu Quoc Island
  Explore one of the Mekong Delta’s booming commercial and trading
  hubs or catch a ferry to emerging island getaways.
  With a population exceeding 400,000, Rach Gia is one of the Mekong Delta’s
  fastest growing cities, and beyond its trading links to Cambodia and Thailand,
  it’s also a departure point to Phu Quoc Island, especially for domestic tourists
  travelling from HCMC. Beyond travellers crossing to experience Phu Quoc’s
  spectacle and energy, Rach Gia’s also the ferry embarkation point to the Nam
  Du archipelago and Hon Son, two emerging island destinations firmly on the
  radar of younger social media-savvy Vietnamese travellers. Both places are
  experiencing the growing pains of rapid development, including construction
  and the prevalence of litter, and will face significant challenges in sustainable
  growth as they inevitably become even more popular across upcoming years.
  Hon Son Island | BIG PEARL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  TOP TIP
  There are no ATMs on Nam Du or Hon Son so withdraw sufficient money before departing
  Rach Gia.
  BEST PLACES TO EAT & DRINK IN RACH GIA
  Quan So 1
  Grill your own ocean-fresh seafood on a tabletop barbecue. All washed down with cold
  beers. $
  Xieu Hon Omakase
  Excellent sushi, sashimi and hearty bowls of udon and ramen noodles all feature at this
  stylish Japanese eatery. $$
  Tap Craft Beer
  Cool beer joint at night and a relaxed cafe during the day. Sit street-side or upstairs for
  river views.
  Rosetta Coffee
  Easygoing escape with plenty of greenery and the best espresso and iced coffee in town.
  A Thriving & Historic Port
  ETHNIC DIVERSITY & REMEMBERING A LOCAL HERO
  On the Gulf of Thailand, Rach Gia’s population also includes significant
  numbers of ethnic Chinese and ethnic Khmers, and with convenient access to
  the sea and close proximity to both Cambodia and Thailand, fishing, agriculture
  and smuggling are all popular and profitable trades around this province. Before
  catching a boat to Phu Quoc, or to the smaller destinations of Nam Du or Hon
  Son, take time to explore the following local sights.
  Nguyen Trung Truc was a leader of an 1860s resistance campaign against the
  French, and a temple dedicated to the fisherman turned freedom fighter sits just
  north of Rach Gia’s built-up and busy main island at the mouth of the Cai Lon
  River. The first temple structure was a simple building with a thatched roof, but
  it’s been enlarged and rebuilt several times since first being built. The main hall
  includes a a portrait of Nguyen Trung Truc on an altar.
  There’s also a statue of Nguyen Trung Truc on the island where Ð Mac Cuu
  meets Ð Le Loi, and the nearby Kien Giang Museum is housed in an ornate
  French colonial building and includes interesting pottery and artefacts from Oc-
  Eo, a Mekong Delta trading city that was part of the Indian-influenced
  Cambodian kingdom of Funan from the 1st to 6th centuries CE.
  Nam Du archipelago | JINDOWIN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
  WHERE TO STAY IN RACH GIA
  Hoa Binh Rach Gia Resort
  Modern rooms and apartments, river views and good bars and restaurants nearby. $$
  Stay Hostel
  Offers private bathrooms and helpful information about visiting Nam Du and Hon Son; it’s near
  ferry departure points. $
  Dong Hai Hotel
  Stylish and modern rooms and with an excellent downstairs cafe; it’s a five-minute walk to
  ferries. $
  HON SON ISLAND
  Hon Son, also known by the name of its main village of Lai Son, is a beautiful mountain
  island 50km southwest of Rach Gia. Still undeveloped, a road circles the island to connect
  a handful of communities and remote beaches. In the north, Bai Bac and Bai Bo are the
  best beaches, and Bai Bang out east is also popular thanks to a horizontal coconut palm
  and Instagram-ready beach swings. Simple accommodation is available in Lai Son and
  dotted about the island. Visitor numbers of younger domestic travellers surge on
  weekends and holidays, so definitely visit during the week.
  With brilliant views on the island’s northern coast, Island Homestay is recommended,
  and a rental scooter is the best option for exploring.
  A Remote Archipelago
  JOINING THE INSTAGRAM CREW ON SLEEPY NAM DU
  Ringed with sandy coves, the Nam Du archipelago is a cluster of around 20
  islands located more than 80km off the coast. Driven by Instagram coverage,
  the main island of Hon Lon (Big Island) is increasingly popular with young
  Vietnamese travellers – especially on weekends and around public holidays –
  but Western visitors are still a relatively rare commodity. November to April
  sees the driest weather and most settled weather.
  On Hon Lon, Bai Tret is the main village and port, and there’s an increasing
  number of accommodation places here and on other island beaches, mainly
  scattered down the east coast. In general, prices are about one-third higher than
  the mainland, and sporadic electricity is generated by noisy generators. Along
  with noise and smoke from generators, litter around the docks and beaches near
  Bai Tret is a growing problem, but other parts of the coast are relatively free of
  rubbish.
  Reached via a sealed 15km motorbike track which traverses the island, Hon
  Lon’s best beach is Bai Cay Men in the southwest. Shacks serve up fresh
  seafood, coconuts and beer, and there are a few simple eateries dockside in Bai
  Tret most evenings. Boat trips and snorkelling excursions to other smaller
  islands of the archipelago can be arranged.
  GETTING AROUND
  Rach Gia is a key transport hub. The central bus station just north of the city centre serves
  mainly Ha Tien, while Rach Soi station 7km south of the city serves HCMC and other Delta
  destinations.
  Phuong Trang (FUTA) has frequent departures to HCMC and Can Tho. Rach Gia Airport,
  10km southeast of the city, has regular flights to HCMC. Boats to Phuoc Quoc with
  Superdong and Phu Quoc Express leave from the western end of Ð Nguyen Cong Tru.
  Superdong also has ferries to Nam Du and Hon Son (listed as Lai Son on their website).
  Occasional ferries link Nam Du and Phu Quoc making island-hopping an option. Check the
  Superdong website for timings. Services to Nam Du and Hon Son are reduced outside of
  November to April
  SIEM REAP & THE TEMPLES OF
  ANGKOR
  SIMPLY THE GREATEST TEMPLES ON EARTH
  Most visitors come for the mother of all temples, Angkor Wat, but Siem
  Reap is fast catching up as a destination in itself.
  Angkor Wat | muzhik/shutterstock ©
  Welcome to heaven on earth. Angkor is the earthly representation of Mt Meru,
  the Mt Olympus of the Hindu faith and the abode of ancient gods. The temples
  are the perfect fusion of creative ambition and spiritual devotion. The
  Cambodian ‘god-kings’ of old each strove to better their ancestors in size, scale
  and symmetry, culminating in the world’s largest religious building, Angkor
  Wat.
  The temples of Angkor are a source of national pride and a place of
  pilgrimage for all Khmers and no traveller to the region will want to miss their
  extravagant beauty. Angkor is one of the world’s foremost ancient sites, with
  the epic proportions of the Great Wall of China, the detail and intricacy of the
  Taj Mahal, and the symbolism and symmetry of the pyramids, all rolled into
  one.
  The life-support system and gateway for the temples of Angkor, Siem Reap
  (see-em ree-ep) was always destined for great things. Siem Reap has reinvented
  itself as the epicentre of chic Cambodia, with everything from backpacker party
  pads to hip hotels, world-class wining and dining across a range of cuisines,
  sumptuous spas, great shopping, local tours to suit both foodies and
  adventurers, and a creative cultural scene that includes Cambodia’s leading
  contemporary circus. It has also genuinely ‘built back better’ after the
  pandemic, with new cycle paths connecting up the major temples of Angkor.
  Beyond Temple Town are a handful of impressive attractions, including the
  otherworldly villages of the Tonlé Sap, some high-profile bird sanctuaries and
  new wildlife attractions like Kulen Elephant Forest. The province is also
  emerging as an accessible place to experience a homestay and a slice of local
  life in a traditional village. Throw in a hatful of remote jungle temples and
  sacred mountains, and it’s best to extend your stay.
  Siem Reap and the temples of Angkor were devastated by the complete
  collapse of the tourism industry during the pandemic, but Cambodia and its
  people have been to hell and back before. What is two years, when the temples
  were once wiped off the travel map for two decades? Angkor is eternal and
  Siem Reap is back.
  rawpixel.com/shutterstock ©
  THE MAIN AREAS
  SIEM REAP
  Cool and contemporary face of Angkor.
  ANGKOR WAT
  Potent symbol of a nation.
  ANGKOR THOM
  The great walled city of Angkor.
  PROMINENT ANGKOR TEMPLES
  The best of the rest.
  Find Your Way
  Siem Reap is still a small town at heart and it’s easy enough to navigate
  the central districts on foot or using pedal power or local tuk tuks. When
  planning adventures further afield to Angkor and beyond, consider a car
  or a motorbike, as tuk tuks can be slow going.

Plan Your Days
The ideal amount of time in Siem Reap is three to five days to see the
temples of Angkor, explore the lively town and see some other
attractions in the countryside.
Ta Prohm | tsushi/shutterstockk ©
Day 1

• Make for the jungle temple Ta Prohm around 7.15am to beat the crowds. Look at the
  jungle canopy from a different angle at the Angkor Zipline. Try a local lunch around the
  temples, head to the great walled city of Angkor Thom to tackle the walking tour. Later,
  explore the lively bars of St 26 or the one and only Pub St.
  Day 2
• Experience the mother of all sunrises at Angkor Wat. Continue to the vast slumbering
  jungle giant of a temple that is Beng Mealea. On the way back, stop at Banteay Srei, the
  art gallery of Angkor thanks to its beautiful carvings. In the evening, experience a dazzling
  performance at the big top of Phare the Cambodian Circus.
  YOU’LL ALSO WANT TO…
  Choose from a cultural kick at museums and temples, a shopping fix at
  the market, a shot in a local bar or meet the wildlife.
  VISIT THE ANGKOR NATIONAL MUSEUM
  A showcase for Angkorian art and an essential stop before visiting
  the temples of Angkor
  rainyclub/shutterstock ©
  TEMPLES OF ROLUOS & KOMPONG PLUK
  Combine Angkorian temples with a boat trip to the stilted village of
  Kompong Pluk.
  stanley kalvan/shutterstock ©
  EXPLORE PHNOM KULEN
  The sacred mountain of Phnom Kulen is a mysterious plateau of
  temples, waterfalls and clifftop views.
  dirk daniel mann/shutterstock©
  SIEM REAP
  The Siem Reap River is the dominant feature of the downtown, winding its way
  from the holy mountain of Phnom Kulen via the moats of Angkor Thom and
  Angkor Wat, then through the heart of town before spilling into the Tonlé Sap
  lake. The river is lined with hotels, restaurants and a few grand old buildings
  from the time of French rule.
  Pub St is an infamous landmark in this area and many of the popular bars,
  restaurants, cafes and shops are located on the river’s West Bank. However,
  some prefer to make for the quieter East Bank back streets around Wat Bo,
  which is emerging as the up-and-coming Boho area for wining and dining. Siem
  Reap was given a major facelift during the enforced tourism shutdown of the
  pandemic, with new roads, public gardens and an impressive new cycle path
  linking the downtown with the temples of Angkor.
  SIGHTS
  1 Angkor National Museum
  2 Preah Ang Chek Preah Ang Chorm
  3 Wat Bo
  EATING
  4 Red Piano
  DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE
  5 Angkor What?
  6 Asana Wooden House
  7 Beatnik Bar
  8 Laundry Bar
  9 Miss Wong
  10 St 26
  11 Temple Club
  SHOPPING
  12 Psar Chaa
  TOP TIP
  Negotiate local transport prices on arrival in Siem Reap, as if you like your driver, then you may
  find yourself using them to explore the Temples of Angkor. It is also possible to use local apps
  like PassApp and Grab to book tuk tuks around town for a very reasonable fixed price.
  THE ART SCENE IN SIEM REAP
  Siem Reap Art Tours
  (siemreaparttours.com) showcases the ever-evolving local art scene. Tours include four
  leading galleries and boutiques around town and usually last about four hours.
  Theam’s House
  (theamshouse.com) is a stunning gallery and studio of lacquer creations and artwork by
  renowned artist Theam. Highly original and a must for serious collectors.
  Angkor National Museum
  A SHOWCASE OF ANGKORIAN ART
  Looming large on the road to Angkor is the Angkor National Museum, a stateof-
  the-art showpiece on the Khmer civilisation and the majesty of Angkor.
  Displays are themed by era, religion and royalty as visitors move through the
  impressive galleries. After a short presentation, visitors enter the Zen-like
  Gallery of a Thousand Buddhas, which has a fine collection of images. Other
  exhibits include the pre-Angkorian periods of Funan and Chenla; the great
  Khmer kings; Angkor Wat; Angkor Thom; and the inscriptions.
  As the museum is entirely air-conditioned, plan a visit during the middle of
  the day to avoid the sweltering midday temperatures at the temples of Angkor.
  Audio tours are available for US$5 and are useful for those who want a more
  comprehensive understanding of the exhibits on display. Wheelchairs are
  available free of charge for visitors with mobility impairment.
  Allow about two hours to visit the museum in depth and to stop by the shop
  and small cafe at the end of your visit.
  WHERE TO DINE FOR A CAUSE IN SIEM REAP
  Haven
  Dine here for the best of East meets West. Proceeds help young adult orphans make the step
  to employment. $
  Marum
  Marum serves up Cambodian street food from pop-up stalls. Part of the Tree Alliance training
  restaurants. $
  Spoons Cafe
  This excellent Cambodian restaurant supports education, training and employment
  opportunities in hospitality. $$
  BEST CAMBODIAN DINING
  Pou Restaurant
  Pou has an innovative menu such as grilled beehive salad, chicken with red ant, and spicy
  vegetable-cake curry. Located in Maison 557 in the Boho area. $$
  Jomno Street Food
  Earning rave reviews, Jomno promotes signature platters with dishes such as naom
  banchok noodles and Battambang sausage. Highly recommended. $$
  Sugar Palm
  A beautiful space to sample traditional flavours infused with herbs and spices, like char
  kreung (curried lemongrass) dishes. $$
  Cuisine Wat Damnak
  Set in a traditional wooden house, this iconic restaurant delivers the ultimate Khmer
  gastronomic experience. Seasonal set menus focus on market-fresh ingredients and
  change weekly. $$$
  Meet the Hero Rats of Apopo
  INNOVATIVE DEMINING IN CAMBODIA
  This is the place to meet the incredible rats that are helping to clear landmines
  in Cambodia. Apopo Visitor Centrehas trained the highly sensitive, almostblind
  Gambian pouched rat to sniff explosives, which dramatically speeds up
  the detection of mines in the countryside. The visitor centre gives background
  on the work of Apopo, with a short video and the chance to meet the rats
  themselves.
  In 2020, one of its Cambodia-based rats, Magawa, won the PDSA Gold
  Medal for ‘life saving devotion to duty’, the animal equivalent of the George
  Cross or a Purple Heart. It also sells some excellent merch, including some
  great T-shirts which are a cut above the average souvenir tee. Popular British
  comedian and actor Jack Whitehall travelled to Cambodia with his father
  Michael to make Travels With My Father for Netflix, and went out demining for
  the day with the ‘hero rats’.
  The Sacred Shrine of Siem Reap
  PRAY FOR LUCK WITH LOCALS
  Located just west of the royal residence is Preah Ang Chek Preah Ang
  Chorm Shrine. Said to represent two Angkorian princesses, these sacred
  statues were originally housed at the Preah Poan gallery in Angkor Wat, but
  were moved all over Siem Reap to protect them from invaders, eventually
  settling here in 1990.
  Locals throng here to pray for luck, especially newlyweds, and it is an
  atmospheric place to visit around dusk, as the incense smoke swirls around.
  Next to the shrine are the tall trees of the Royal Gardens, home to a resident
  colony of fruit bats (also known as flying foxes), which takes off to feed on
  insects around sunset.
  WHERE TO STAY IN SIEM REAP
  Mad Monkey
  One of the many super hostels in Siem Reap, it has private rooms and dorms offer free access
  to the pool. $
  Onederz Hostel
  Winner of several ‘Hoscars’ (Hostelworld’s Oscars), this is one of the smartest hostels in Siem
  Reap. $
  Funky Village
  A popular party address for backpackers, the courtyard has a swimming pool where water polo
  take place. $
  Wat Bo meets Boho
  BUDDHIST SOUL OF TEMPLE TOWN
  As befitting the gateway to the sacred temples of Angkor, Siem Reap is home to
  some beautiful old wats (Buddhist temples) dating back to the 19th century.
  One of the town’s oldest temples, Wat Bo has a collection of well-preserved
  wall paintings from the late 19th century depicting the Reamker, Cambodia’s
  interpretation of the Ramayana. The monks here regularly chant sometime
  between 4.30pm and 6pm, and this can be a spellbinding and spiritual moment
  if you happen to be visiting. The head monk here has a collection of old
  Buddhist treasures and is working with the Ministry of Culture to open a small
  museum.
  Nearby St 26 has emerged as the hip hangout in Siem Reap after the dark
  days of the pandemic and is now known as Boho thanks to its proximity to Wat
  Bo.
  Miss Wong carries you back to chic 1920s Shanghai. Gay-friendly and
  popular with the well-heeled expat crowd, the cocktails are a draw here and
  there’s a menu offering dim sum. One of the most chilled, chic bars in town,
  Laundry is the place to come for electronica and ambient sounds and it is
  heaving on weekends.
  PHARE THE CAMBODIAN CIRCUS
  Cambodia’s answer to Cirque du Soleil, Phare the Cambodian Circus (pharecircus.org) is
  so much more than a conventional circus, with an emphasis on performance art and a
  subtle yet striking social message behind each production. Cambodia’s leading circus,
  theatre and performing-arts organisation, Phare Ponleu Selpak opened its big top for
  nightly shows in 2013, and the results are a unique, must-see form of entertainment.
  Many of the performers have deeply moving personal stories of abuse and hardship,
  making their talents a triumph against the odds. An inspiring night out for adults and
  children alike, all proceeds are reinvested into Phare Ponleu Selpak activities. Tickets cost
  US$18/10 adult/child and premium seats US$38/18.
  No animals are used in performances.
  Pub St Bar Crawl
  DISCOVER SIEM REAP AFTER DARK
  Pub St and the Angkor What? Barhave become almost as renowned as the
  temples of Angkor for a generation of backpackers. While Pub St draws the
  headlines and the revelers, there is a whole series of lanes and alleys crisscrossing
  the old French quarter in this part of town that make a great location to
  embark on a bar crawl.
  Kick off your night at Asana Wooden House, an impressive traditional
  country residence in the backstreets of Siem Reap. Infused rice wine is used to
  give the creative cocktails a kick and it even does cocktail classes as an
  alternative to a cooking class. Continue to Beatnik Speakeasy, with a great
  location on the corner, and discover that hipsters existed back in the 1950s, only
  without the beards. Drop into Psar Chaa (Old Market) for a local dinner at one
  of the many Cambodian food stalls here to ensure you are lined for the libations
  ahead.
  Head into Pub St proper, but prepare for the volume to be cranked up to 11.
  Check out Red Piano, one of the first bar-restaurants to open in Pub St and
  where Angelina Jolie helped create the ‘Tomb Raider’ cocktail. Further along
  the road is another stalwart in Temple Club, although the Temple empire is so
  large now that many of the bars in this area are owned by the same group.
  Finish up at the one and only Angkor What? Bar, which claims to have
  been promoting irresponsible drinking since 1998. If you manage to stay here
  until 5am, you could combine Angkor What? with an Angkor Wat sunrise, but
  you may not remember much about the experience.
  WHERE TO STAY IN SIEM REAP
  Baby Elephant Boutique Hotel
  Run by an Australian clan, this has great beds, a pool area, and a lovely rooftop. $$
  Rambutan Resort
  Atmospheric, gay-friendly resort spread over two stunning villas, with spacious stylish rooms
  and a pool. $$
  Montra Nivesha
  A beautiful boutique hotel with the perfect sense of place, rooms are set around lush gardens
  and two pools. $$
  ANGKOR WAT
  The traveller’s first glimpse of Angkor Wat, the ultimate expression of Khmer
  genius, is matched by only a few select spots on earth. Built by Suryavarman II
  (r 1112–52) and surrounded by a vast moat, the temple is one of the most
  inspired monuments ever conceived by the human mind. Stretching around the
  central temple complex is an 800m-long series of bas-reliefs, and rising 55m
  above the ground is the central tower, which gives the whole ensemble its
  sublime unity.
  The temple is the heart and soul of Cambodia: it is the national symbol, the
  epicentre of Khmer civilisation and a source of fierce national pride. Soaring
  skyward and surrounded by a moat that would make its European castle
  counterparts blush, Angkor Wat was never abandoned to the elements and has
  been in virtually continuous use since it was built.
  SIGHTS
  1 Angkor Wat
  2 Army of Suryavarman II
  3 Bakan Sanctuary
  4 Churning of the Ocean of Milk
  5 Gallery of a Thousand Buddhas
  6 Phnom Bakheng
  7 Sunrise Ponds
  8 Statue of Vishnu
  Angkor Wat | lena serditova/shutterstock ©
  TOP TIP
  Allow at least two hours for a visit to Angkor Wat and plan a half-day if you want to decipher the
  bas-reliefs with a tour guide and ascend to Bakan, the upper level. It is also possible to enter
  via the eastern causeway, which can be a good way to avoid the crowds if planning a sunrise
  visit.
  Gallery of a Thousand Buddhas | khoroshunova olga/shutterstock ©
  TOP SIGHT
  Angkor Wat
  Angkor Wat is, figuratively, heaven on earth. It is the earthly
  representation of Mt Meru, the Mt Olympus of the Hindu faith and
  the abode of ancient gods. The Cambodian god-kings of old each
  strove to better their ancestors’ structures in size, scale and
  symmetry, culminating in what is believed to be the world’s largest
  religious building, the mother of all temples, Angkor Wat, the ‘temple
  that is a city’.
  emil litov/shutterstock ©
  PRACTICALITIES
  Visit angkorenterprise.gov.kh for information on visiting the temples or to buy
  tickets online.
  Western Causeway
  From the west, a sandstone causeway crosses the moat. The sandstone
  blocks from which Angkor Wat was built were quarried more than 50km
  away (from the holy mountain of Phnom Kulen) and floated down the
  Siem Reap River on rafts. The logistics of such an operation are mindblowing,
  consuming the labour of thousands. According to inscriptions, the
  construction of Angkor Wat involved 300,000 workers and 6000 elephants,
  yet it was still not fully completed.
  DON’T MISS
  Western Causeway
  Statue of Vishnu
  Sunrise Ponds
  Churning of the Ocean of Milk Bas-Relief
  Reign of Suryavarman II Bas-Relief
  Gallery of a Thousand Buddhas
  Bakan Sanctuary
  Statue of Vishnu
  The rectangular outer wall, which measures 1025m by 800m, has a gate on
  each side, but the main entrance, a 235m-wide portico richly decorated
  with carvings and sculptures, is on the western side. There is a statue of
  Vishnu, 3.25m in height and hewn from a single block of sandstone,
  located in the southeast tower (it was originally housed in the central tower
  of the temple). You may also see locks of hair lying about. These are
  offerings both from young people preparing to get married and from
  pilgrims giving thanks for their good fortune.
  Sunrise Ponds
  There are two royal bathing ponds on the west side of Angkor Wat and
  these are the most popular place to witness sunrise over this iconic temple.
  Traditionally the northern pond was the most popular, but due to ongoing
  archaeological work there, most visitors now choose the southern pond.
  Sunrise is usually around 5.45am, but most people try to arrive at the
  temple by 5.30am to find a good spot. If you are lucky enough to be at
  Angkor Wat for the spring or autumn equinox, you will see the sun rise
  directly over the central tower.
  CATCH THE SUNRISE
  When planning an iconic sunrise visit to Angkor Wat, set the alarm for earlier than
  5am and head out to arrive at the temple around 5.15am. The sun usually comes
  up at about 5.30am to 5.45am depending on the time of year. By 7am the big
  event is over and you can explore in relative solitude.
  Bas-Reliefs
  Stretching around the outside of the central temple complex is an 800mlong
  series of intricate and astonishing bas-reliefs. The majority were
  completed in the 12th century, but in the 16th century several notably
  inferior new reliefs were added to unfinished panels. Highlights include the
  Churning of the Ocean of Milk and the Army of Suryavarman II.
  TOP TIPS
• Enter via the Eastern causeway to avoid the larger tour groups that enter via the
  Western causeway.
• If visiting for sunrise, bring a torch (flashlight) as the sandstone causeway is
  uneven.
• Stick around after sunrise, as most of the tour groups head back to the hotel to
  graze leaving Angkor Wat mercifully empty.
• A three-day or seven-day pass does not have to be used on consecutive days, so
  you can mix up some non-temple activities.
• Save Angkor Wat until later in a temple itinerary, as it makes sense to build the
  anticipation in terms of size and scale.
  Gallery of a Thousand Buddhas
  The Gallery of a Thousand Buddhas (Preah Poan) used to house hundreds
  of Buddha images before the war, but many of these were removed or
  stolen, leaving just the handful we see today. Many Cambodians make a
  pilgrimage here to be blessed in front of the standing Buddha, the same
  location Angelina Jolie received her blessing in Tomb Raider.
  Bakan Sanctuary
  Also known as Bakan, the upper level of Angkor Wat is open (8am to 5pm
  daily, except religious holidays; 12 and over) to a limited number of
  visitors per day with a timed queuing system. Ascend to the 55m summit,
  savour the cooling breeze, take in the extensive views and then find a quiet
  corner in which to contemplate the sheer scale of this Everest of temples.
  Clothing that covers to the elbows and knees is required to visit this upper
  level of Angkor Wat.
  THE APSARAS OF ANGKOR WAT
  Angkor Wat is famous for its beguiling apsaras (heavenly nymphs). Almost 2000 apsaras
  are carved into the walls of Angkor Wat, each of them unique, and there are 37 different
  hairstyles for budding stylists to check out. Many of these exquisite apsaras have been
  damaged by centuries of bat droppings and urine, but they are now being restored by the
  German Apsara Conservation Project (GACP; gacp-angkor.de). The organisation
  operates a small information booth in the northwestern corner of Angkor Wat, near the
  modern wat, where beautiful postcards and images of Angkor are available.
  MORE IN ANGKOR WAT
  The Mountain Temple of Phnom Bakheng
  Located around 400m south of Angkor Thom, the main attraction at Phnom
  Bakheng is the sunset view over Angkor Wat. For many years, the whole affair
  turned into a circus, with crowds of tourists ascending the slopes of the hill and
  jockeying for space. Numbers are now restricted to just 300 visitors at any one
  time, so get here early (4pm) to guarantee a sunset spot. The temple, built by
  Yasovarman I (r 889–910), has five tiers, with seven levels. Phnom Bakheng
  lays claim to being home to the first of the temple-mountains built in the
  vicinity of Angkor. Yasovarman I chose Phnom Bakheng over the Roluos area,
  where the earlier capital (and temple-mountains) had been located.
  Mountain Temple of Phnom Bakheng | joshua davenport/shutterstock ©
  At the base are – or were – 44 towers. Each of the five tiers had 12 towers.
  The summit of the temple has four towers at the cardinal points of the compass
  as well as a central sanctuary. All of these numbers are of symbolic
  significance. The seven levels represent the seven Hindu heavens, while the
  total number of towers, excluding the central sanctuary, is 108, a particularly
  auspicious number and one that correlates to the lunar calendar. Some prefer to
  visit in the early morning, when it’s cool (and crowds are light), to climb the
  hill. That said, the sunset over the Western Baray is very impressive from here.
  Allow about two hours for the sunset experience.
  To get a decent picture of Angkor Wat from the summit of Phnom Bakheng,
  you will need a serious zoom lens, as the temple is 1.3km away.
  Statue outside Angkor Thom | rick wang/shutterstock ©
  ANGKOR WAT FROM THE AIR
  Options to see Angkor Wat from the air include the fixed-line Angkor Balloon, located
  about 1.3km away from the world’s largest religious building, or a helicopter ride over the
  temples with Helistar.
  WHERE TO EAT CLOSE TO ANGKOR WAT
  Angkor Parvis
  The approach to Angkor Wat has been remodelled as a parvis with small restaurants, cafes
  and souvenir shops. $
  Mahob
  The Khmer word for food is mahob, and the mahob here is delicious, with dishes like wok-fried
  beef with red ants. $$
  Amok Khmer
  Open-air poolside restaurant serving traditional Khmer cuisine, including the one and only
  amok. $$
  GUIDED TOURS AROUND ANGKOR
  Visitors who have only a day or two at this incredible site may prefer something organised
  locally. It is possible to link up with an official tour guide in Siem Reap, where a number of
  operators run tours ranging from simple day trips to cycling tours to excursions to more
  remote temple sites. The Khmer Angkor Tour Guide Association represents some of
  Angkor’s authorised guides. English- or French-speaking guides can be booked from
  US$30 per day; guides speaking other languages, such as Italian, German, Spanish,
  Japanese and Chinese, are available at a higher rate as there are fewer of them.
  ANGKOR THOM
  It’s hard to imagine any building bigger or more beautiful than Angkor Wat, but
  in Angkor Thom (Great City) the sum of the parts add up to a greater whole.
  Centred on Bayon, the surreal state temple of Jayavarman VII, Angkor Thom is
  enclosed by a formidable wall, 8m high and 13km in length, and encircled by a
  100m-wide moat that would have stopped all but the hardiest invaders in their
  tracks.
  In the centre of the walled enclosure are the city’s most important
  monuments, including Bayon, Baphuon, the Royal Enclosure, Phimeanakas and
  the Terrace of Elephants. Visitors should set aside a half-day to explore Angkor
  Thom in depth. Beyond Angkor Thom, visitors make for the atmospheric jungle
  temple of Ta Prohm, where nature continues its timeless march.
  SIGHTS
  1 Baphuon
  2 Bayon
  3 Kleangs
  4 Phimeanakas
  5 Phnom Bakheng
  6 Pre Rup
  7 Preah Khan
  8 Preah Neak Poan
  9 Ta Keo
  10 Ta Prohm
  11 Terrace of the Leper King
  TOP TIP
  If coming from Angkor Wat, you’ll enter Angkor Thom through the south gate. From Ta Prohm,
  you’ll enter through the Victory Gate on the eastern side. The immense north gate of Angkor
  Thom connects the walled city with Preah Khan and the temples of the Grand Circuit. The west
  gate leads to the Western Baray.
  Face to Face with the Bayon
  THE ENIGMATIC SMILES OF AVALOKITESHVARA
  At the heart of Angkor Thom is the 12th-century Bayon, the mesmerising, if
  slightly mind-bending, state temple of Jayavarman VII. It epitomises the
  creative genius and inflated ego of Cambodia’s most celebrated king.
  Its 54 Gothic towers are decorated with 216 gargantuan smiling faces of
  Avalokiteshvara, and it is adorned with 1.2km of extraordinary bas-reliefs
  incorporating more than 11,000 figures.
  Though Bayon is now known to have been built by Jayavarman VII, for
  many years its origins were unknown. Shrouded in dense jungle, it also took
  researchers some time to realise that it stands in the exact centre of the city of
  Angkor Thom. There is still much mystery associated with Bayon and this
  seems only appropriate for a monument whose signature is an enigmatic
  smiling face.
  BUSTS OF KING JAYAVARMAN VII
  The meditative bust of King Jayavarman VII is an iconic symbol of Cambodia and is a
  popular purchase for tourists. There are some beautiful original examples in the Angkor
  National Museum.
  Buddhism Meets Hinduism at Baphuon
  THE WORLD’S LARGEST JIGSAW PUZZLE
  Some have called Baphuon the ‘world’s largest jigsaw puzzle’. Before the civil
  war the Baphuon was painstakingly taken apart piece by piece by a team of
  archaeologists, but their meticulous records were destroyed during the Khmer
  Rouge regime, leaving experts with 300,000 stones to put back into place. After
  years of excruciating research, this temple has been partially restored.
  In the 16th century, the retaining wall on the western side of the second level
  was fashioned into a 60m reclining Buddha. In its heyday, Baphuon would have
  been one of the most spectacular of Angkor’s temples. Located 200m northwest
  of Bayon, it’s a pyramid-shaped representation of mythical Mt Meru.
  Construction probably began under Suryavarman I and was later completed by
  Udayadityavarman II.
  MEET KING JAYAVARMAN VII
  A devout follower of Mahayana Buddhism, Jayavarman VII (r 1181–1219) built the city of
  Angkor Thom and many of the temples visited around Angkor today. However,
  Jayavarman VII is a figure of many contradictions. The bas-reliefs of the Bayon depict him
  presiding over battles of terrible ferocity, while statues of the king depict a meditative,
  otherworldly aspect. His programme of temple construction was carried out in great
  haste, no doubt bringing enormous hardship to the labourers who provided the muscle.
  He was partly driven by a desire to legitimise a new religion to a population predominantly
  Hindu in faith. However, in many ways he was also Cambodia’s first progressive leader,
  proclaiming the population equal, abolishing castes and embarking on a programme of
  school, hospital and road building.
  WHERE TO EAT ON A BUDGET
  Road 60 Night Market
  Sample Cambodian snacks, including the full range of deep-fried insects and barbecue dishes
  such as quail. $
  Tevy’s Place
  A delightful family-run restaurant on St 26 with a wide range of Cambodian classics at
  incredibly reasonable prices. $
  Banllé Vegetarian Restaurant
  This is a great place for a vegetable amok and zesty fruit and vegetable shakes. $

A WALKING TOUR OF ANGKOR THOM
Angkor Thom is the top trekking spot thanks to its manageable size and rewarding temples.
Start at the spectacular 1 south gate, admiring the immense representation of the
Churning of the Ocean of Milk before ascending the wall of this ancient city and heading
west. Reaching the southwestern corner, admire 2 Prasat Chrung, one of four identical
temples marking the corners of the city.
Back on the gargantuan wall, continue to the 3 west gate, looking out for a view to the
immense Western Baray on your left. Descend at the west gate and wander east along the
path into the heart of Angkor Thom, but don’t be diverted by the beauty of Bayon, as this is
best saved until last. If you are with a tour guide, you will have to travel this first and follow
the designated running order, but independent travellers can plot their own course. Veer
north into 4 Baphuon and wander to the back of this temple. Then pass the small temple of
5 Phimeanakas and the former royal palace compound, an area of towering trees, tumbling
walls and atmospheric foliage. Continue further north to petite but pretty 6 Preah Palilay,
overshadowed by an impressive cluster of kapok trees.
It’s time to make for the mainstream with a walk through the 7 Terrace of the Leper
King and along the front of the royal viewing gallery, the 8 Terrace of the Elephants. If
there’s time, you may want to zigzag east to visit the laterite towers of Prasat Suor Prat and
the atmospheric Buddhist temple of Preah Pithu. Otherwise, continue to the top billing of 9
Bayon: weird yet wonderful, this is one of the most enigmatic of the temples at Angkor.
PROMINENT ANGKOR TEMPLES
Angkor Wat might be the iconic image of Cambodia, but there are many more
unique temples that would be the headline attraction if they were located in the
neighbouring countries of the region. The ancient Khmers constructed such an
embarrassment of riches that there are so many big hitters around Angkor.
Ta Prohm or the ‘Tomb Raider temple’ is the place to see nature reclaiming
the stones in its tentacle-like grip, while delicate Banteay Srei is home to the
finest carvings found at Angkor. The temples of Roluos are a step back in time
to the earlier Angkorian capital of Hariharalaya and the holy mountain of
Phnom Kulen is where the first capital of Mahendraparvata is hiding in the
jungle. Further afield lies another River of a Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean
and the epic jungle ruin of Beng Mealea, being slowly suffocated by vines and
creepers.
SIGHTS
1 Bakong
2 Banteay Srei
3 Beng Mealea
4 Kbal Spean
5 Lolei
6 Phnom Kulen
7 Preah Khan
8 Preah Ko
9 Ta Prohm
TOP TIP
It is possible to combine some of the temples to get the best out of a day. Ta Prohm and the
‘small circuit’ temples can easily be combined with Preah Khan and the ‘big circuit’ temples. If
venturing to remote Koh Ker, then include Beng Mealea en route.
FLOATING VILLAGES AROUND SIEM REAP
Chong Kneas
The floating village of Chong Kneas is a bit of a circus, but for all its flaws, it is very scenic
and can be combined with sunset from the hilltop temple of Phnom Krom.
Kompong Pluk
The village of Kompong Pluk is a friendly, otherworldly place where houses are built on
soaring stilts. Nearby is a flooded forest, inundated when the lake rises to take the
Mekong’s overflow.
Kompong Khleang
One of the largest communities on the Tonlé Sap, Kompong Khleang is more of a town
than the other villages, and comes complete with several ornate pagodas.
Me Chrey
One of the more recently ‘discovered’ floating villages, Me Chrey is one of the smaller
communities, but sees far fewer tourists than busy Chong Kneas.
The Jungle Temple of Ta Prohm
TOMB RAIDER MEETS INDIANA JONES
The so-called ‘Tomb Raider Temple’, Ta Prohm is cloaked in dappled shadow,
its crumbling towers and walls locked in the slow muscular embrace of vast
root systems. Undoubtedly the most atmospheric ruin at Angkor, Ta Prohm
should be high on the hit list of every visitor. Its appeal lies in the fact that,
unlike the other monuments of Angkor, it has been swallowed by the jungle,
and looks very much the way most of the monuments of Angkor appeared when
European explorers first stumbled upon them. Built from 1186 and originally
known as Rajavihara (Monastery of the King), Ta Prohm was a Buddhist temple
dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. The temple is at its most impressive
early in the day.
Preah Khan | joshua davenport/shutterstock ©
WHERE TO EAT INTERNATIONAL FOOD IN SIEM REAP
Cul-de-Sac
This elegant French restaurant serves choice cuts and Gallic favourites in the leafy garden of a
restored wooden house. $$
Elia Greek Kitchen
This little taverna near Psar Chaa looks like it comes straight out of the Med, and the food
tastes pretty authentic too. $
Il Forno
Aficionados of fine Italian cuisine will love this place serving fresh antipasti, pizzas and homecooked
Italian dishes. $$
The Fusion Temple of Preah Khan
TEMPLE OF THE SACRED SWORD
The temple of Preah Khan is one of the largest complexes at Angkor, a maze
of vaulted corridors, fine carvings and lichen-clad stonework. Like sister temple
Ta Prohm, it is a place of towered enclosures and shoulder-hugging corridors.
Preah Khan was built by Jayavarman VII and probably served as his temporary
residence while Angkor Thom was being built. The central sanctuary of the
temple was dedicated in 1191. A genuine fusion temple, the eastern entrance is
dedicated to Mahayana Buddhism with equal-sized doors, and the other cardinal
directions dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma with successively smaller
doors, emphasising the unequal nature of Hinduism.
The Early Temples of Roluos
THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF HARIHARALAYA
The monuments of Roluos which served as Indravarman I’s capital,
Hariharalaya, are among the earliest large, permanent temples built by the
Khmers and mark the dawn of Khmer classical art. Before the construction of
Bakong temple, generally only lighter (and less durable) construction materials
such as brick were employed. As well as the imposing pyramid temple of
Bakong, the Roluos group also includes the brick temple of Preah Ko and Lolei,
originally an island temple. Allow three hours or so to explore the three temples
of Roluos and nearby handicraft projects. Plan a half-day visit to the temples of
Roluos together with the stilted village of Kompong Pluk on the Tonlé Sap
Lake.
WHY I LOVE PHNOM KULEN
Nick Ray, Lonely Planet writer
@lpnickray
I first visited Phnom Kulen in 1998, soon after it had been liberated from the Khmer Rouge.
Visitors had to trek up the mountain to the River of a Thousand Lingas, taking about three
hours. I took film director Jean-Jacques Annaud on a scout to the guardian animals of Sra
Damrei on Phnom Kulen in 2001, zipping between ‘Danger!! Mines!!’ signs on a motorbike.
I was fortunate to know many of the lead archaeologists on the LIDAR mission that
revealed the lost city of Mahendraparvata in 2012 and they have been generous in sharing
the secrets of the sacred mountain with me in the past decade. There is a magic about this
mountain that is hard to put into words.
Beguiling Banteay Srei
MORE THAN A TEMPLE
Considered by many to be the jewel in the crown of Angkorian art, Banteay Srei
is cut from stone of a pinkish hue and includes some of the finest stone carving
anywhere on earth. Begun in 967 CE, it is one of the smallest sites at Angkor,
but what it lacks in size it makes up for in stature. The art gallery of Angkor,
this Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva is wonderfully well preserved, and many
of its carvings are three-dimensional. Banteay Srei is more than a temple and
new destinations and experiences, including homestays, village walks, ox-cart
rides, fruit farms and handicraft workshops, are under development to
encourage visitors to stay longer and explore further.
FAMILY FUN AROUND SIEM REAP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR
Angkor Zipline
This family-friendly experience (angkorzipline.com) includes 10 zip lines, 21 treetop platforms,
and an abseil descent.
ICF Wake Park
Set on a lake, ICF Wake Park (icf-wakepark.com) offers wakeboarding, water-skiing or
kneeboarding and play parks.
Quad Biking
There are several quad biking (ATV) companies offering sunset rides through the countryside
and longer adventures.
Daytrips beyond Banteay Srei
MAKE THE MOST OF A LONG JOURNEY
Banteay Srei temple is best combined with other far flung temple sites to make
the most of the longer 32km journey out here. Combine this petite pink temple
with a day trip to the sacred mountain of Phnom Kulen or trek to the River of a
Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean.
WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES AROUND ANGKOR
Kulen Elephant Forest
Providing a retirement home for the former working elephants of Angkor, this is a peaceful
place to walk with the herd. Tours cost US$80 per person, including the one-hour transfer
each way and lunch.
Angkor Wildlife & Aquarium
The Angkor Wildlife & Aquarium is designed to showcase the best of Cambodia’s invisible
freshwater giants that lurk in the Mekong, including the giant catfish and the giant
stingray. Entry is US$18/10 per adult/child and it is located 30km southeast of Siem
Reap.
Angkor Centre for the Conservation of Biodiversity (ACCB)
Conveniently located near Kbal Spean is ACCB, which takes care of about 45 species,
including pileated gibbon and silvered langur. Daily tours are available at 9am and 1pm
(except Sunday). Minimum donation of US$3 per person.
The Sacred Mountain of Phnom Kulen
BIRTHPLACE OF THE KHMER EMPIRE
Considered by Khmers to be the most sacred mountain in Cambodia, Phnom
Kulen is a popular place of pilgrimage on weekends and during festivals. It
played a significant role in the history of the Khmer empire, as it was from here
in 802 CE that Jayavarman II proclaimed himself a devaraja (god-king), giving
birth to the Cambodian kingdom. Attractions include a giant reclining Buddha,
hundreds of lingas carved in the riverbed, an impressive waterfall and some
remote temples. It is about two hours from Siem Reap.
Waterfall, Phnom Kulen | dmitry finkel/shutterstock ©
RETAIL THERAPY IN SIEM REAP
Satcha
Taking off where Artisans Angkor left off, this beautiful handicrafts incubation centre supports
independent artisans.
AHA Fair Trade Village
For locally produced souvenirs, drop by the stalls at this handicraft market, which sells a range
of traditional items.
SATU Concept Store
This impressive store showcases a curated selection of the best of Cambodia’s homegrown
products.
The Carvings of Kbal Spean
RIVER OF A THOUSAND LINGAS
A spectacularly carved riverbed, Kbal Spean is set deep in the jungle to the
northeast of Angkor. More commonly referred to in English as the ‘River of a
Thousand Lingas’, the name actually means ‘bridgehead’, a reference to the
natural rock bridge here. Lingas (phallic symbols) have been elaborately carved
into the riverbed, and images of Hindu deities are dotted about the area. It was
‘discovered’ in 1969, when ethnologist Jean Boulbet was shown the area by a
hermit. It is about one and a half hours from Siem Reap and involves a hike of
around two hours.
THE FORGOTTEN TEMPLE OF CHAU SREI VIBOL
Petite hilltop temple Chau Srei Vibol is actually part of a larger complex that spanned the
entire hill. It’s under-visited compared with other temples, making it an atmospheric
option for sunset. The central sanctuary is in ruins but is nicely complemented by an
early-20th-century wat nearby. Surrounding the base of the hill are laterite walls outlining
the dimensions of what was once a significant temple.
To get here turn east off the Bakong–Anlong Veng highway about 8km north of NH6, or
5km south of Phnom Bok – there’s a small, easy-to-miss sign that marks the turn. Locals
are friendly and helpful should you find yourself lost.
Slumbering Giant of Beng Mealea
AN AUTHENTIC JUNGLE RUIN
A spectacular sight to behold, Beng Mealea, located about 68km northeast of
Siem Reap, is one of the most mysterious temples at Angkor, as nature has well
and truly run riot. Exploring this Titanic of temples, built to the same floor plan
as Angkor Wat, is the ultimate Indiana Jones experience. Built in the 12th
century under Suryavarman II, Beng Mealea is enclosed by a massive moat
measuring 1.2km by 900m.
The Usurper Capital of Koh Ker
A RIVAL CAPITAL TO ANGKOR
Abandoned to the forests of the north, Koh Ker, a usurper capital of the
Angkorian empire from 928 to 944 CE, is one of the most remote temple
complexes around Angkor. Most visitors start at Prasat Krahom, where
impressive stone carvings grace lintels, doorposts and slender window columns.
The principal monument is Mayan-looking Prasat Thom, a a 55m-wide, 40mhigh
sandstone-faced pyramid whose seven tiers offer spectacular views across
the forest. Approaching Koh Ker from the south, there is a circular route that
takes in all the major temples in this former royal capital, including the
spectacular Prasat Bram in the southeast, Prasat Krahom and Prasat Thom in the
north and the lingas of Prasat Leung in the northeast, winding its way around
the rahal (baray or reservoir).
CHURNING OF THE OCEAN OF MILK
Beng Mealea has one of the smallest depictions of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, but
there are some monumental depictions of this Hindu epic around Angkor, including at
Angkor Thom, Preah Khan and Angkor Wat.
WHERE TO SLEEP AROUND KOH KER
Mom Morokod Koh Ker Guesthouse
This quiet guesthouse has 11 clean, spacious rooms with bathrooms. $
Koh Ker Temple Gardens Hotel
This boutique retreat has individual air-con bungalows set around a swimming pool. $$
Koh Ker Jungle Lodge
This striking old wooden house in Koh Ker has two private bedrooms and can host groups. $
TOOLKIT
The chapters in this section cover the most important topics you’ll
need to know about in Vietnam. They’re full of nuts-and-bolts
information and valuable insights to help you understand and
navigate Vietnam and get the most out of your trip.
Kerbside bicycle repair | THE ROAD PROVIDES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Arriving
Getting Around
Money
Accommodation
Family Travel
Health & Safe Travel
Food, Drink & Nightlife
Responsible Travel
LGBTiQ+ Travel
Accessible Travel
Language
Nuts & Bolts
Arriving
Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi are the two primary points of entry. Tan
Son Nhat International Airport is 8km from the city centre; Noi Bai
International Airport is 35km from Hanoi’s Old Quarter. Airport taxi
scams are rampant; consider using Vietnam VIP Arrival
(vietnamviparrival.com) to whisk you through immigration and get
you a safe ride to your hotel. Vinasun and Mai Linh are reputable taxi
companies.
odua images/shutterstock ©
Visas
Visas are available online (evisa.xuatnhapcanh.gov.vn). Print the approval, and have
the required documents at arrival. Vietnam Visa Center (vietnamvisacenter.org) is a
reliable visa agency. Entry rules change often, check ahead.
SIM Cards
Viettel, Vinaphone and Mobifone are the three major network brands in Vietnam. Find
a SIM card dealer after going through customs or pre-purchase one from Klook
(klook.com) for a quick and easy experience.
Wi-Fi
Free wi-fi is available at both airports but is often slow and unreliable. For a better
connection, make a purchase at an eatery, and you’ll get a receipt with a temporary wifi
password.
Border Crossings
Vietnam shares land borders with Cambodia, China and Laos, and there are over a
dozen official crossings. Foreigners are usually only allowed to cross between 7am and
5pm.
Public transport from the airport
Fuse/getty images ©
FREE VISAS
In an effort to promote tourism and the local economy, travellers
entering Vietnam from certain countries may qualify for visa
exemptions. Citizens from several Southeast Asian countries, like
Singapore, Thailand and Indonesia do not require a visa for stays of
less than 30 days. Those from the UK, France, Germany, Spain,
Italy and other select European countries can stay less than 15
days without a visa. Russians, Japanese and South Koreans also
get a 15-day visa exemption.
Getting Around
The best way to get around Vietnam is by aeroplane, train and
sleeper bus. Within cities, use a ride-hailing app to get a motorbike
or car driver to chauffeur you.
TRAVEL COSTS
Motorbike rental
From US$6/day
Train Ticket Danang to Hue
from US$3
Petrol
Approx US$1/l
Bicycle rental
US$3/day
Grab
The ‘Uber of Vietnam’, Grab, lets you book motorbike and car
drivers. The service charges by the kilometre and minute, with a
minimum fee. Like Uber, peak time surcharges apply. Other ridehail
apps include Gojek and Be.
Driver’s Licence
To legally drive in Vietnam, whether motorbike or car, you need to
have an International Driving Permit, which can only be obtained in
your home country. You can legally drive motorbikes up to 50cc
and electric bikes without a licence.
CONQUERING THE ROADS
Traffic in Vietnam might seem chaotic, but there’s a method to the
madness. First off, the bigger the vehicle, the more respect it
deserves. If you’re on a motorbike and they’re in a car, they have
the right of way. The locals don’t use their mirrors, so feel free to
honk your horn liberally to indicate your presence. And if you’re lost
about what to do at a roundabout, wait for a group of drivers and
use them as protection as you move forward.
TIP
If your plans coincide with a national holiday, make sure to book your plane, train or
bus tickets well in advance because they’re likely to sell out.
Bus
Public buses run throughout Vietnam, even to the smaller cities
and villages, but private sleeper buses are the better choice.
They’re much more comfortable and they’re not expensive. Choose
from a vast variety of companies and routes.
Train
The train runs mainly along the coast, taking you to cities from
HCMC all the way to Hai Phong and Lao Cai. Overnight rides are
very chilly as the air conditioning is on full blast, so make sure to
have some warm layers at the ready.
Plane
Vietnam Airlines, Bamboo Airways and Vietjet are the three major
airlines in Vietnam. Most cities have an airport, but the smaller
ones usually only have direct flights to Hanoi and HCMC. Vietjet is
the cheapest option, but notorious for delays and cancellations.
DRIVING ESSENTIALS
Drive on the right
Defer to larger vehicles.
0
Blood alcohol limit is 0g/Litre.
Money
CURRENCY: DONG (D)
Money Exchange
US dollars can be exchanged at airports, banks and hotels, but the
best place to convert your money is at gold shops. There are no
fees and the rate is often better than what is offered elsewhere.
Gold shops are often in red and gold colours and can be found near
markets.
Card payments
Visa and MasterCard are widely accepted, especially in hotels,
shopping malls and smart restaurants. Smaller guesthouses, street
food vendors and most businesses in the countryside probably
won’t have the technology to accept card payments, so make sure
you have cash with you.
Tipping
Some restaurants and hotels may collect a service charge, which
you will see on your bill. Otherwise, tipping is not expected but
welcomed.
HOW MUCH FOR A…
Mobile data
from US$6
Beer
US$0.80
Massage
US$12
Tailor-made clothes
from US$13
HOW TO… Not Get Ripped Off
Get the cost upfront. Even the wet napkins waiting on the table and
the peanuts they plop in front of you might have a price. Use a ridehailing
app like Grab to avoid getting scammed by taxis. And watch
out for copycat tour companies with similar names as reputable
ones. Case in point: Knock-offs of the official railway site sell tickets
for much more than they’re worth.
WHY SO CHEAP?
Get the cost upfront. Even the wet napkins waiting on the table and
the peanuts they plop in front of you might have a price. Use a ridehailing
app like Grab to avoid getting scammed by taxis. And watch
out for copycat tour companies with similar names as reputable
ones. Case in point: Knock-offs of the official railway site sell tickets
for much more than they’re worth.
facing page: bbbirdz/shutterstock ©
LOCAL TIP
The notes for 500,000d (US$20) and 20,000d (US$0.80) are both printed on blue
paper and very easy to mix up. Check and make sure you’re paying with the right bill.
Accommodation
Dream in Design
Famed architect and interior designer Bill Bensley is the talented
man behind several magnificent properties in Vietnam. Such as
Capella Hanoi with opulent interiors inspired by the nearby opera
house, the secluded Yen Tu MGallery which brings a 12th-century
monastery back to life, and JW Marriott Phu Quoc, an abandoned
university turned hotel. Each has its own story to tell, hidden in
every thoughtful detail of its design.
Bungalow Beauty Sleep
Bungalows are typically simple, single-storey buildings with a
sloping roof and a terrace. In Vietnam, bungalow accommodations
can range from basic to luxurious. At Trang An Hamlet Bungalow in
Ninh Binh, get a bamboo bungalow with a thatched roof in an idyllic
setting pretty cheaply. On the other side of the spectrum, Topas
Ecolodge in Sapa offers lavish chalet-style stone bungalows with a
private balcony for a pretty penny.
Stay Like a Local
Not only is a homestay easy on the pocket, it’s also a front-row
lesson on history, culture and hidden gems. Your host is the expert,
and they are often more than happy to share their knowledge. The
family will likely invite you to eat with them, so you get to
experience what the locals dine on day to day. And if your stay
coincides with a holiday, expect to get invited to the festivities.
HOW MUCH FOR A NIGHT IN…
a bungalow
US$15
a hostel dorm
US$4-15
a homestay
US$15-20
Glamp Out
Glamping gets you close to nature without compromising on modern comforts: a plush
bed, quality linens, designer furniture and a bathroom with a shower. CampArt by

MoJen just outside Dalat is a magical lakeside glamping site with delicious food and a

cute bar. CoCo Beachcamp, on the other hand, is set on the shores of Lagi featuring
bohemian-style tents equipped with air-conditioners.
seaonweb/shutterstock ©
Cheap Sleeps
If you’re a backpacker on a budget, there are no shortages of
hostels. Some meet basic needs while others have a distinct style.
Hay Hostel in Hanoi offers all the essentials. Large lockers, a
personal fan and a curtain for privacy. Meander Hostel in HCMC
offers something a little more special. More poshtel than hostel, it
boasts a minimalist design that’s functional and playful.
doctor_k/shutterstock ©
GIVE BACK
When opting for a locally owned business, you’re contributing to
the local economy and uplifting the community as a whole.
Many areas in Vietnam solely depend on tourism for their income,
so staying in rustic bungalows and cosy homestays contributes
extensively to their livelihood. Beyond that, you might want to
share what you learned from your stay – the history, the culture,
the food and the handicrafts – with others, garnering interest,
facilitating the destination to develop, and helping the locals
become more prosperous.
Family Travel
With its rich culture and history, Vietnam is chock full of legends and
stories that will captivate you and your kids, and there’s no shortage
of family-friendly activities either. From kayaking in Ha Long Bay and
trekking in the jungle to snorkeling in Phu Quoc and riding the
longest cable car in the world.
Tours
Consider taking a small group tour. It’s a great way to see the sites
and learn about Vietnam’s history and culture. All with little effort
and hassle in organising transport, accommodation and meals.
Great tour companies in Vietnam include Explore!, G Adventures
and Grasshopper Adventures. Also, if the kids complain about any
of it, you can just throw your hands up and say, ‘We have no choice.
It’s part of the tour.’
Facilities
Very few restaurants and other public facilities have nappychanging
facilities. Don’t rely on restaurants having highchairs.
Some do, but rarely. Seatbelts aren’t used at all, so they’re often
tucked away into the cushion. Rural places will most likely have
squat toilets and bidets instead of toilet paper.
Getting Around
If you plan on driving motorbikes or riding bicycles with your kids on the back, bring
your own helmets from home. Legit ones with good safety ratings are hard to come by
in Vietnam.
Eating Out
Vietnamese cuisine is fresh and light, and it’s not spicy like Thai food, so it’s easy on
kids’ tastebuds. Thanks to the French influence, you can easily find bread and dairy
products.
KID-FRIENDLY PICKS
Hoi An
Splash around at An Bang beach, explore My Son Sanctuary ruins and release paper
lanterns into the Thu Bon River.
Hue
Cruise along the Perfume River, explore what’s left of the Imperial City and taste royal
delicacies.
Halong Bay
Take an overnight cruise, kayak between karsts and cycle in the national park.
Hanoi
Go on a cycle tour of the Old Quarter, walk around Hoan Kiem Lake and watch a water
puppet show. yesteryear vehicles.
r.m. nunes/shutterstock ©
IT TAKES A VILLAGE
Vietnamese people love kids from foreign countries, and they don’t
try to hide it. Be prepared for women to swoop your child out of
your arms and fuss over them while you eat. When the bill is
settled, she’ll slide your baby right back in your arms. Not such a
bad thing if you want to enjoy your pho without having to deal with
a small child. While they do this because they think foreign babies
are so cute, it’s also because they want to help you out. The locals
believe it takes a village to raise a child, and it’s part of their culture
to assist whenever they can.
Health & Safe Travel
TYPHOON SEASON
Every year, roughly between October and December, central
Vietnam gets hit with powerful tropical storms coming in from
the East Sea. Strong winds, flooding and power outages may
occur. In cases where the storm is predicted to cause heavy
damage, the government will issue a stay-at-home order.
Typhoon Aftermath
When strong storms pass, Hoi An is prone to flooding. While that
might seem like a nuisance, you can take advantage of the unique
situation and what it has to offer. Wade in the waterlogged streets
and watch smart locals traverse town in canoes. Or, roll up your
sleeves and lend a hand in clearing debris from the streets and
unclogging waterways.
Heat Exhaustion
In the hot months (March to May in the south and May to July in
the north) temperatures can soar up to over 40°C. To avoid heat
stress, stay out of the midday sun, dress appropriately and drink
plenty of fluids. If you experience weakness, headache, dizziness or
nausea, get out of the sun and drink water.
alex from the rock/shutterstock ©
SOLO TRAVEL
Ride-hailing apps are the safest form of transport for female solo travellers out at
night. Make sure to get in the right vehicle.
FOREST FIRE SAFETY
Blue Low risk
Green Average risk
Yellow High risk
Orange Dangerous
Red Vary dangerous
Scams
Popular taxi scams include drivers going long circuitous routes to
run the meter, go-fast meters and fake taxis at the airport. Other
scams include eateries that do not display prices and surprise you
with a large bill, and smiling vendors that agree to have their
picture taken and later ask for a hefty fee. To avoid scams, always
ask for the cost upfront.
DRIVE-BY THEFT
More common in bigger cities, perpetrators drive up next to their victim and snatch a
phone, bag or other belonging before quickly driving off. This can happen when you’re
walking and when you’re on the back of a motorbike. To be safe, don’t use your phone
out in the open, and don’t carry a big handbag.
Food, Drink & Nightlife
When to Eat
An sang (breakfast, 6am to 9am) offers the most variety with noodle soups, baguette
sandwiches, sticky rice, congee and more.
An trua (lunch, 11am to 2pm) is rice and side dishes. Com binh dan eateries will have
all sides on display. Simply point at the ones you want.
An toi (dinner, 5pm to 9pm) is a group affair known as nhau. Dishes served often go
well with beer.
Where to Eat
Street food Roadside stalls with small plastic tables and chairs
that serve very limited menus of their specialties.
Lau DIY hotpot restaurants. Select the package you want from the
menu, then use the gas cooker on the table to boil the broth before
adding raw meat and vegetables.
Nhau Eateries where the focus is more on drinking, and the food is
just an accompaniment.
left: koosen/shutterstock ©
MENU DECODER
Banh savoury cake, crepe, dumpling or roll
Banh trang rice paper
Bat small bowl portion
Bo beef
Bun round noodle
Ca fish
Cay spicy
Chai bottle
Chay vegetarian
Com rice or rice plate
Da ice
Dia plate
Ga chicken
Giai khat beverages
Goi salad
Hai san seafood
Hap steamed
Heo pork
Lau hotpot
Luoc boiled
Ly cup
Mien glass or vermicelli noodle
Mon phu side dish
Nong hot
Nuoc cham dipping sauce
HOW TO… Differentiate Between Regional Cuisines
Northern, central and southern Vietnam all have distinct cuisines.
North Vietnam borrows from its neighbour China. Flavours here are
light and balanced, showcasing the natural taste of ingredients.
Spices and fresh herbs are abundant in central Vietnam, so expect
a punch of flavour and complexity in its food. Peanuts are also
plentiful, chopped and sprinkled on dishes, and made into a
dipping or drizzling sauce. Southern cuisine reflects international
influence with the use of coconut milk, similar to Thai and
Cambodian food. People in the south are also big on sweetness,
with sugar being the key ingredient to dishes like ca kho to (claypot
fish). Due to its hotter weather, this region lends to cooler foods,
like goi cuon (summer rolls), and relies heavily on nuoc mam (fish
sauce).
HOW MUCH FOR A…
Banh Mi Sandwich
US$0.80
Iced Coffee
US$1
Pho
US$1.40
Street Food Meal
US$1
Lau
US$8
Local Beer
US$0.80
Pizza
US$6
HOW TO… Drink Alcohol
Drinking alcohol in Vietnam is very much an activity to be shared
with friends; the more the merrier. The beverage of choice is beer,
brought room temperature to the table by the case with a bucket of
ice and glasses. Simply add ice to your cup and pour the beer in.
It’s customary for your friends to fill your glass and for them to fill
yours.
If you’re out with locals, be prepared for plenty of toasts. ‘Chuc
suc khoe’ means ‘to your health’. A more popular toast is ‘mot, hai,
ba, gio’ which means ‘one, two, three, in’. This is most often
followed by ‘tram phan tram’, which literally translates to ‘100%’
meaning ‘chug it all’. Food is often served along with the beer
swilling.
Tiger, Heineken, Carlsberg and San Miguel are all brewed and
bottled in Vietnam. Local beer, like 333, Hanoi Beer and Huda are
cheaper. Bia hoi (draft beer) is only up to 4% alcohol and extremely
inexpensive. Bia tuoi (fresh beer) is a close relation and more
commonly served in the south.
You might also come across ruou can (rice-distilled liquor), an
alcoholic drink made from regular or glutinous rice and selected
herbs and fruit. A snake, gecko or scorpion might be thrown in as
well. Traditionally, the ingredients are mixed together, heated, then
buried in the ground for about a month to ferment.
old man stocker/shutterstock ©
Son Tinh
Son Tinh makes award-winning craft ruou can in many different flavours. ‘Vietnam in a
glass’ is available nationwide and makes for the perfect souvenir.
TABLE MANNERS
Once you arrive, wait for your host to show you where to sit at the dining table. Where
people sit depends on their importance to the family, stature and age. As a sign of
respect, the oldest person is the one who is seated first and also the first to eat.
Meals are often served family-style with different dishes placed at the centre of the
table. Food from the serving plates is picked up with chopsticks or a spoon and eaten
in small, individual rice bowls. The host might pick up food and place it in your bowl,
urging you to eat. It’s quite alright to bring your bowl to your face, sip from it, and
shovel the last bits of food into your mouth using your chopsticks.
During the meal, pass things to other people using both hands. Never stick your
chopsticks vertically in the middle of a bowl because it resembles incense on the altar,
a sign of death. Do not use your chopsticks to point at someone or something.
You must not pick up the food from the serving plate and place it directly in your
mouth. Instead, put the food in your bowl first, before consuming it.
Eat everything in your bowl to show your satisfaction with the meal. Once you’re
done, place your chopsticks on top of your bowl.
It’s impolite to leave the table when others are still eating. Chat with them or help
them serve dessert while you wait for others to finish their meal.
Responsible Travel
Climate Change & Travel
It’s impossible to ignore the impact we have when travelling, and
the importance of making changes where we can. Lonely Planet
urges all travellers to engage with their travel carbon footprint.
There are many carbon calculators online that allow travellers to
estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey; try
resurgence.org/resources/carbon-calculator.html. Many airlines
and booking sites offer travellers the option of off setting the
impact of greenhouse gas emissions by contributing to climatefriendly
initiatives around the world. We continue to off set the
carbon footprint of all Lonely Planet staff travel, while recognising
this is a mitigation more than a solution.
Cruising
Explore Ha Long Bay with Bhaya Cruises (bhayacrusies.com), the
bay’s first sustainable cruise line. It’s made great efforts to operate
responsibly, protect the endangered white-headed langur, and
clean up the bay.
Trekking
Go trekking with Sapa Sisters (sapasisters.com), a social
enterprise run by Hmong ethnic women. Sleep at a homestay
overnight where you can experience typical Hmong hospitality and
delicious, home-cooked meals.
Caving
Go spelunking with Oxalis Adventure Tours (oxalisadventure.com)
in Phong Nha. The company largely employs local villagers, uses
compost toilets at campsites, conducts regular impact
assessments, and everything that is brought in is also taken out.
vanatchanan 222842452/shutterstock ©
Souvenirs
Collective Memory (collectivememory.vn) in Hanoi’s Old Quarter
features an array of arts and fair-trade products from artisans,
villages and crafts people around the country, hand-selected for
their quality and unique Vietnamese essence.
Purchase fragrant soap bars and palm oil-free beauty products at Le Mai
(lemaivietnam.com.vn), made with plant extracts and packaged with recycled
materials.
Stay at Topas Ecolodge (topasecolodge.com), a luxurious, socially responsible retreat
in the mountains of Sapa that employs local people from villages nearby.
Elephant Rescue
Yok Don National Park (yokdonnationalpark.vn) in Dak Lak, along
with international charity Animals Asia, has teamed up to create
the country’s first ethical elephant tour. Watch formerly captive
elephants forage, eat and sleep as they wish.
iNdependent birds/shutterstock ©
Dining
Enjoy European and Vietnamese fare at Mai Sen Bistro
(facebook.com/maisenbistro/) in HCMC. The restaurant is run by
trainees of An Re Mai Sen, a programme for hill tribes, victims of
Agent Orange, and others in need.
Organic Farming
Take a hands-on tour to learn how coffee is traditionally produced
at K’ho Coffee Farm (khocoffee.com) just outside Da Lat. The
enterprise supports 50 ethnic minority families and uses farming
methods that limit soil erosion and deforestation.fattened and/or
pumped with hormones or antibiotics.
Grab a coffee and a pastry at Simple Coffee (simplecoffee.vn), served by people with
intellectual and development disabilities in a vocational training programme.
Volunteer while you stay at budget-friendly Maison Chance (maison-chance.org). All
profits go towards orphanages and programmes for people with disability.
2050
Currently ranking fourth globally with the highest rate of plastic waste, the Vietnamese
government has issued a long-term strategy on environmental protection to achieve
carbon neutrality by 2050.
RESOURCES
vietnam.travel/sustainability
A list of responsible travel options in Vietnam.
worldpackers.com
Exchange programmes with volunteering opportunities.
vietnamresponsibletourism.com
A social enterprise that offers tours and volunteering.
LGBTIQ+ Travellers
Vietnam is hospitable and welcoming towards LGBTIQ+ travellers,
even though the society at large remains conservative towards
homosexuality. In the recent past, the country has made positive
strides in recognising the queer community. The ban on same-sex
marriages was lifted in January 2015, and VietPride is a grand affair
in HCMC and Hanoi, with smaller versions celebrated around the
country.
The Big Shindigs
VietPride (facebook.com/vietpride.vn) takes place over several
days annually in HCMC, Hanoi and several other cities and
provinces. The event in Hanoi is the largest and includes a colourful
parade, film festival, engaging talks, informational exhibitions and
raucous parties. VietPride for both HCMC and Hanoi often takes
place in September. Full Disclosure Entertainment
(facebook.com/fulldisclosurevn) throws monthly extravaganzas at
various venues in HCMC featuring drag shows, live music and a DJ
late into the night..
Alexander Spatari/Getty Images ©
GAY FRIENDLY BARS
Find a wealth of queer enterprises in HCMC and Hanoi, the country’s two biggest
cities. In the south, check out Thi Bar for laidback vibes and live music, or party with
Les Come Out, the city’s first queer women and trans-inclusive party series. In Hanoi,
grab a beer at Golden Cock Bar, one of the longest-running gay venues, or sip a
cocktail at Savage, a posh, gay-owned lounge.
ALL THINGS DRAG
The drag queens of GenderFunk host regular events at The Observatory and other
venues in HCMC. Expect fierce runway battles and sassy bingo games. Sai Gon Tan
Thoi also puts on weekly drag shows at Rubik Zoo.
Volunteering and Safe Networks
iSEE (isee.org.vn) is a local group that advocates for the rights of
minority people in Vietnamese society, including the LGBTIQ+
community. One of the projects spearheaded by Save the Children
(vietnam.savethechildren.net) empowers deprived and
marginalised young people who don’t conform to society’s
sexuality norms.
Tourism
ICS Center (ics.org.vn) is the most prominent LGBTIQ+
organisation in Vietnam and the people behind VietPride. HE
Travel (hetravel.com), self-proclaimed ‘King of Gay Travel’, does a
southeast Asia tour that covers Hanoi, Ha Long Bay and the
Mekong River delta, before ending at Angkor Wat in Cambodia.
Out Adventures provides a short guide on gay travel in Vietnam
(outadventures.com/gay-travel/destinations/vietnam/).
Older Mindsets
While the locals in general are relaxed and tolerant towards LGBTIQ+ tourists,
traditional family values run deep and homosexuality remains a contentious topic.
Older generations and people in rural areas tend to be less open-minded than their
younger and metropolitan counterparts.
Accessible Travel
Like other developing countries, Vietnam was not built with people
with disability in mind. However, that’s all changing with a new law in
place that requires the construction and renovation of public
buildings with accessible facilities.
Ha Long Bay
ERA Cruises (eracruises.com) sails around Ha Long Bay and Lan
Ha Bay and features a lift so all floors are wheelchair friendly. For
day trips, book with Jade Sails (jadesails.com), which boasts
wheelchair accessibility.
Airport
Most Vietnamese airlines provide special assistance if you contact them at least 24
hours before your departure. Make sure to give them your wheelchair’s measurements
and the severity of your disability.
Accommodation
Bathroom doorways in hotels can be very narrow. Contact the accommodation before
booking to ensure the width of your wheelchair can fit through the opening.
TRANSPORT
For travel within cities, ask your hotel to organise a 7-seat taxi. Or,
simply use Grab, a ride-hailing app, and select the 7-seat option.
Sleeper buses are the much better option, compared to trains, for
intercity travelling.
Nguyen Hue
HCMC is making efforts to cater to the visually impaired. For
example, the traffic lights at Nguyen Hue walking street have sound
signals to notify when you can safely cross.
Sidewalks
The pavements in Vietnam are not exclusive to pedestrians and are
often blocked by parked motorbikes and street food vendors. To
get around, you must go on the street, sometimes in chaotic traffic.
MAISON CHANCE
Maison Chance (maison-chance.org) operates two budget
guesthouses in HCMC and Dak Nong that are completely
wheelchair accessible. All profits go towards an orphanage and
vocational programmes for people with disability. Guests are
welcome to volunteer with the organisation during their stay.
RESOURCES
DMap (drdvietnam.org) is an app with a comprehensive list of accessible
infrastructures – restaurants, parks, shopping malls, entertainment centres, offices
and religious buildings – in Vietnam. The software is in both Vietnamese and English
and is available for iOS and Android devices.
Du Lich Tiep Can (dulichtiepcan.com) is a website that shows attractions,
transportation, restaurants, hotels and other businesses in Vietnam that are
wheelchair accessible.
Language
Vietnamese is the official language of Vietnam and spoken by about
85 million people worldwide. It belongs to the Mon-Khmer language
family and has Muong (a hill-tribe language) as its closest relative.
Basics
Hello. Xin chào. sin jòw.
Goodbye. Tạm biệt. daạm bee·ụht
Yes. Vâng. (N) vuhng.
Dạ. (S) yạ.
No. Không. kawm.
Please. Làm ơn. laàm ern.
Thank you Cảm ơn. ğaảm ern.
You’re welcome. Không có chi.kawm ğó jee.
Excuse me/Sorry. Xin lỗi. sin lõy
How are you? Có khỏe không? ğáw kwả kawm
Fine, thank you. And you?
Khỏe, cám ơn. kwả ğaảm ern
Còn bạn thì sao? kwả ğòn baạn teè sow
What’s your name? Tên là gì? den laà zeè
My name is … Tên tôi là … den doy laà …
I (don’t) understand. Tôi (không) hiểu. doy (kawm) heẻ·oo.
Directions
Where is …? … ở đâu ? … ẻr đoh.
What is the address? Ðiạ chỉ là gì? đee·ụh cheẻ laà zeè.
Could you write it down, please? Xin viết ra giùm tôi. sin vee·úht
zaa zùm doy.
Can you show me (on the map)? Xin chỉ giùm (trên bản dồ này)?
sin jeẻ zùm (chen baản dàw này)?
Go straight ahead. Thẳng tới trước. tủhng der·eé chuhr·érk.
in front of. đằng trước. đùng chuhr·érk.
near (to). gần. gùhn.
opposite. đối diện. đóy zee·ụhn.
Time
What time is it? Mấy giờ rồi? máy zèr zòy
It’s (eight) o’clock. Bây giờ là (tám) giờ. bay zèr laà (dúhm) zèr
morning buổi sáng boỏ·ee saáng
afternoon buổi chiều boỏ·ee jee·oò
evening buổi tối boỏ·ee dóy
yesterday hôm qua hawm ğwaa
today hôm nay hawm nay
tomorrow ngày mai ngày mai
Emergencies
Help! Cứu tôi! ğuhr·oó doy
Leave me alone! Thôi! toy
I’m lost. Tôi bị lạc đường. doi beẹ laạk đuhr·èrng
Please call the police. Làm ơn gọi công an. laàm ern gọy ğawm
aan
Please call a doctor. Làm ơn gọi bác sĩ. laàm ern gọy baák seẽ
I’m sick. Tôi bị đau. doy beẹ đoh
It hurts here. Chỗ bị đau ở đây. jãw beẹ đoh ẻr đay
Eating & drinking
I’d like … Xin cho tôi … sin jo doy …
Not too spicy, please. Xin đừng cho cay quá. sin đùrng jo ğay
gwaá
I’m a vegetarian. Tôi ăn chay. doy uhn jay
I’m allergic to (peanuts). Tôi bị dị ứng doy beẹ zeẹ úhrng với (hạt
lạc). ver·eé (haạt laạk)
Can I have a (beer), please?
Xin cho tôi (chai bia)? sin jo doy (jai bee·uh)
Cheers! Chúc sức khoẻ! júp súhrk kwả
NUMBERS
1
một mạwt
2
hai hai
3
ba baa
4
bốn báwn
5
năm nuhm
6
sáu sóh
7
bảy bảy
8
tám dúhm
9
chín jín
10
mười uhr·eè

Nuts & Bolts
Lunch Break
In Vietnam, lunch breaks are often from 11.30am to 1pm or noon to
1.30pm. Most banks, schools and other businesses besides
eateries will be closed during this time.
Internet Access
Except in mountains and remote islands, wi-fi is widely available in
Vietnam. Most businesses require a password, but this is easily
attained by asking staff.
Smoking
Smoking, including e-cigarettes, is allowed in public spaces and in
most restaurants and cafes. Airports have designated smoking
rooms after you pass security.
Toilets
Toilets are often rigged with a bidet. In rural areas, you will probably encounter squat
toilets.
Water
It is not safe to drink the water from the tap. If you must, boil it first for about one
minute.
GOOD TO KNOW
Time Zone
GMT+7
Country Code
84
Emergency number
113 (Police)
Population
98.18 million
Electricity 220V/50Hz
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
Vietnam celebrates six public holidays. Some businesses and nonessential
services may be closed. If a holiday falls on the weekend,
workers are entitled to have the following day off (Monday) as well.
New Year’s Day
1 January
Tet Holiday
January/February
Hung Kings Commemoration Holiday
April
Reunification Day
30 April
International Labor Day
1 May
National Day
2 September
dong nhat huy/shutterstock ©
THE VIETNAM
STORYBOOK
Our writers delve deep into different aspects of life in Vietnam.
A History of Vietnam in 15 Places
Iain Stewart
Meet the Vietnamese
James Pham
Vietnamese 101: A Language of Melodic Beauty
James Pham
The Ancient Art of Reviving Craft
Diana Truong
Coffee Culture: Robust & Strong
Katie Lockhart
The Illegal Trade in Wildlife
Iain Stewart
From Bia Hoi to Craft Beer
Brett Atkinson
Motorbikes, A Doomed Affair?
Joshua Zukas
Vietnamese Calligrapher | dong nhat huy/shutterstock ©
A HISTORY OF VIETNAM IN
15 PLACES
The establishment of the modern state of Vietnam is a tale of 2000
years of conflict, invasions and rebellions. China, the Mongols,
France and the USA have all been repelled in this immense struggle
to nationhood. Today the country is united, its borders secure, and
the Vietnamese people are enjoying a lasting period of progress. By
Iain Stewart
IN THE BACKYARD of a giant neighbour, the Vietnamese have first and
foremost had to deal with China. They’ve been resisting Chinese
domination from as far back as the 2nd century BCE and had to endure a
1000-year occupation.
The American War captured the attention of the West, but for the
Vietnamese the conflict was cataclysmic, leaving their nation in ruins and
with three million lives lost. Defiance and courage, two very Vietnamese
character traits ultimately prevailed, and the Americans were dispatched –
the last in a long line of visitors who have come and gone. As far as Ho Chi
Minh was concerned, no matter what was required or how long it took, they
too would be vanquished.
In centuries past, the Khmers, the Mongols and Chams were all defeated.
There was a humbling period of colonialism under the French. As recently
as 1979, just after the cataclysmic horrors of the American War, with the
country on its knees, Vietnam took on an invading Chinese army. Inevitably
all these invaders have left their mark. The Chinese brought Buddhism,
Taoism and the principles of Confucianism. The French introduced
railways, and some grand architecture and cuisine. And though the
Americans left a devastated nation, Vietnamese pride remained intact.

1. Bunker of Colonel de Castries
   INDOCHINE’S IGNOMINIOUS END
   An underground shelter measuring around 20m and perhaps 7m in width,
   protected by sand bags and steel supports, the Bunker of Colonel De
   Castries’ is just one of many battlefield remains in the highland town of
   Dien Bien Phu. It’s certainly not much to look at today. But after 57 days of
   relentless attack, this bunker was overrun on 7 May 1954 by Viet Minh
   forces. The Vietnamese flag was raised, bringing a humbling and inglorious
   end to over a century of French Indochine, and Colonel De Castries was
   forced to surrender. It’s estimated 13,000 French troops died in the battle of
   Dien Bien Phu, while Viet Minh losses were around double that.
2. Temple of Literature
   AN ANCIENT UNIVERSITY
   Featured on the 100,000d Vietnamese banknote, Hanoi’s Temple of
   Literature is the country’s grandest and most impressive ancient monument.
   Built in 1070 to honour Confucius, it’s long been associated with education,
   originally as a base for Confucian studies. Today the capital’s university
   students come here to pay respects before important examinations. The Thai
   Hoc courtyard was the site of Vietnam’s first university, complete with
   teaching halls and classrooms. Altars honour famous professors on the
   ground floor and kings on the upper floor.
   The Temple of Literature, Hanoi | boivin nicolas/shutterstock ©
3. Red River
   VIETNAMESE HEARTLAND
   The cradle of Vietnamese culture, it was on the banks of the Red River
   (Song Hong) that wet rice cultivation emerged around 2000 BCE. During
   the Bronze Age Dong Son period, the region was farmed intensively. Its
   agricultural importance was later recognised by Han emperors who annexed
   the area in 111 BCE, commencing 1000 years of Chinese control.
   The Vietnamese chose a Red River bank for their first capital, Thang
   Long (‘Rising Dragon’), today situated in central Hanoi. The river remains
   at the epicentre of the Vietnamese nation, its delta a food basket for the
   north of the country.
4. Ho’s Home
   A PLACE OF PILGRIMAGE
   The father figure of the modern Vietnamese nation, Nguyen Sinh Cung,
   better known as Ho Chi Minh, led an extraordinary life, much of it in exile.
   He worked as a chef in London, as a merchant seaman and spent years in
   China and Russia. Ho lived in the isolated village of Kim Lien, 14km west
   of the city Vinh in his early years. Today a museum has been created in a
   reconstruction of his family home, a simple wooden structure with bamboo
   walls. It serves as a place of pilgrimage, visited by thousands of Vietnamese
   people annually, for whom the simplicity of the building symbolises the life
   of the man and his dedication to establishing an independent nation.
5. Cat Tien National Park
   A FRAGILE RESERVE
   Vietnam established its first national park back in 1962 and today 9% of the
   nation’s territory is officially protected. However, the reality is that animals
   in every reserve are targeted by poachers for the illegal wildlife trade.
   Rhino horn has been traded in Vietnam for over 2000 years, absurdly
   credited with everything from increasing libido to curing cancer. Thought to
   be extinct in mainland Asia, a group of Javanese rhino were discovered in
   Can Tien National Park in the early 1990s. But 20 years on the last
   individual had been wiped out by hunters, a victim of the low priority given
   to environmental affairs in Vietnam.
6. Ben Hai River
   A DIVIDING LINE
   Vietnam was split in two in 1954 when the French were kicked out, with the
   Viet Minh controlling the north of the country and a South Vietnamese state
   created in the south. For 21 years the Ben Hai River acted as the border
   between the two Vietnams, with a demilitarised zone (DMZ) on either side.
   Today the river boasts a reunification monument and bridges span its
   waters, one an iron replica from the French era.
7. Hue Citadel
   AN IMPERIAL ENCLAVE
   All but destroyed during the 1968 Tet offensive during the American War,
   the Hue Citadel has been steadily rebuilt in the last decades. Recognised by
   Unesco as a World Heritage Site in 1993, it dates back to the early 19th
   century when Hue became capital of Vietnam under Emperor Gia Long. His
   vision of a royal enclave of palaces was based on Beijing’s Forbidden City,
   facing the Perfume River. The complex was designed to align
   cosmologically with the five cardinal points and represent the five key
   elements of Chinese culture.
8. Japanese Covered Bridge
   HOI AN HISTORY
   The most famous building in Hoi An, the city’s graceful Japanese Covered
   Bridge dates back to the late 16th century. At the time Hoi An was one of
   East Asia’s most important trading ports, full of merchants and sailors from
   Europe, China, India and Japan. The bridge was originally constructed to
   connect the town’s Japanese and Chinese quarters, its roof designed to
   shelter users from the sun and rain. Ironically, Japanese residents would
   only use it for 40 or so years; in 1637 their rulers banned all contact with
   the outside world and traders returned to the motherland.
9. Bitexco Tower
   HIGH-LIFE, HIGH-RISE SAIGON
   Taller skyscrapers have been built in Vietnam since it was constructed in
   2010, and many more are in the pipeline, but the supremely elegant Bitexco
   tower is still the most graceful high-rise in the nation. Designed by
   superstar architect Carlos Zapata, in many ways the Bitexco symbolises the
   dynamism of the 21st-century Vietnamese nation, its progress and
   optimism.
   Thrillist.com named the 263m tower second in their ‘Coolest Skyscraper
   in the World’ list.
10. My Son
    A CHAM CAPITAL
    While the Cham people are the original inhabitants of coastal Vietnam,
    today they are just one small minority group in the country. Their culture
    was greatly influenced by the subcontinent, borrowing heavily from Indian
    art and religion, with Sanskrit as a sacred language. The evocative ruins of
    My Son represent the best surviving remains of Cham architecture, a
    magical collection of temples dedicated to the god Shiva in an isolated
    valley setting. Many temples were severely damaged in 1969 by American
    bombs. Today there are around 130,000 Cham speakers in Vietnam,
    practising both Islam and Hinduism.
11. Son My Memorial
    SOMBRE WAR MEMORIAL
    At about 7.30am on 16 March 1968, the US Army’s Charlie Company
    landed by helicopter in Son My, central Vietnam, regarded as a Viet Cong
    stronghold. The massacre of villagers and cover up that followed changed
    the course of the American War, with US soldiers coming home from
    Vietnam finding themselves ostracised and branded ‘baby killers’. Set in
    gardens, the very moving Son My memorial records the names of the 504
    who lost their lives in acutely distressing detail. The display does end on a
    hopeful note, chronicling the efforts of villagers to rebuild their lives
    afterwards.
12. Lam Son Revolt
    REBEL ARMY STRONGHOLD
    In 1418, rebel leader Le Loi sparked the Lam Son Uprising by refusing to
    serve as an official for the Ming dynasty. This revolt against the Chinese
    was centred around the city of Thanh Hoa, its success dependant on
    guerrilla tactics. By 1425, local rebellions had erupted in several regions
    and Le Loi travelled across north and central Vietnam to rally support, and
    eventually defeated the Chinese. By 1426, the rebel army had conquered all
    lands from Thanh Hoa to Danang and the following year captured Hanoi.
    Le Loi is celebrated as a national hero in Vietnam today, for his military
    victories and land reforms.
13. Reunification Palace
    ERA-ENDING LANDMARK
    Facing one of HCMC’s grandest boulevards and most elegant city parks,
    the Reunification Palace is one of the nation’s most striking modernist
    buildings. Its historical importance to the Vietnamese state is incredibly
    profound, its symbolism and impact for 20th-century history epochal. For it
    was here on 30 April 1975 that the American War effectively ended in the
    most dramatic of incidents, as North Vietnamese tank No 843 crashed
    through the palace’s imposing iron entrance gates. With the world’s media
    as witnesses, a soldier then unfurled the Viet Cong flag from the central
    balcony and reunification was complete.
    Reunification Palace, Ho Chi Minh City | sean hsu/shutterstock ©
14. Ben Thanh Metro Station HCMC
    A NEW TERMINUS
    Thirty years ago less than 1% of Saigonese citizens were car owners. Today
    traffic is relentless, pollution levels are punishing (AirVisual ranked HCMC
    as the second-most polluted city in the world in June 2020) and it’s
    estimated there are seven million motorbikes in HCMC alone.
    Governmental failure to prioritise public transport has a huge impact on
    public health and economic productivity. The new Ben Thanh metro station
    is set to be the terminus of HCMC’s first urban rail network. City
    authorities hope it will entice locals onto public transport and off their
    beloved two wheelers (in the capital there are plans to ban motorbikes
    entirely).
15. Mekong River
    FEEDING THE NATION
    Vietnam’s most fertile region is the Mekong Delta, a vast agricultural area
    irrigated by the great river and fed by its silt. It’s been a ‘rice bowl’ since
    the 4th century BCE, and was vital to the success of the Khmer empire, for
    whom the region was Kampuchea Krom (lower Cambodia). Ethnically the
    delta remains closely linked to Cambodia (there are over 10 million Khmer
    Krom in Vietnam) and many Cambodians consider the Delta a lost
    province.
    Around 60% of all Vietnamese rice is produced in this area, and most of
    its tropical fruit, as well. But the future of the delta is under threat on
    multiple fronts, as hydroelectric plants affect fertility, floating markets close
    and rising sea levels increase salinity.
    MEET THE
    VIETNAMESE
    Don’t be offended if a Vietnamese person asks your age or makes a
    comment about your weight. They’re just trying to get to know you.
    JAMES PHAM introduces his people.
    andrew v marcus/shutterstock ©
    AT FIRST GLANCE, it may seem like the Vietnamese are a homogenous
    people, but Vietnam is actually made up of 54 ethnic groups. While the
    Vietnamese Kinh make up 85% of the population, many ethnic groups such
    as the H’Mong, Tay and C’Ho, most with distinct languages, religions and
    rituals, can be found in places such as Dalat, Kontum and the mountainous
    regions near the Chinese border.
    No matter where you go, for many visitors, the Vietnamese may seem
    impenetrable behind a shy smile. While kids study English through most of
    their school years, it’s heavy on grammar and rote learning with little
    opportunity to practice authentic listening and speaking. Studies show that
    while Vietnamese students excel in math, Vietnam usually ranks poorly
    when it comes to English proficiency.
    rolf_52/shutterstock ©
    That doesn’t mean the Vietnamese don’t prize education, however. In
    fact, Vietnam is one of the few lower-income countries that tests on par or
    even outperforms much richer countries, an anomaly known as the
    ‘Vietnam Effect’. Parents can be seen ferrying kids to after-school tutoring
    almost daily with extra private English classes on the weekends, all with the
    dream of having their children one day study, work or live abroad.
    This industrious work ethic continues through adulthood, leading to one
    of the lowest unemployment rates and one of the fastest growing economies
    of any nation in East and Southeast Asia. The fact that nearly 40% of
    Vietnam’s approximately 100 million people are 24 or younger also bodes
    well for the future.
    vietnam stock images/shutterstock ©
    Equally important to the Vietnamese is family. Children almost always
    live with their parents until they’re married, and even then, often choose to
    stay on. Shared family meals are common. In fact, sharing everything is
    common. The Vietnamese generally hate to do anything alone, meaning
    entire groups of co-workers will go have lunch together or call each other
    up to chat over coffee or a draft beer. Beer drinking (usually with ice) can
    even be considered a national pastime, with many business deals sealed
    over copious amounts of alcohol. It’s no surprise that the average
    Vietnamese consumes 45L of beer per year, one of the highest rates in the
    region.
    Being direct is another quality the Vietnamese share. Don’t be surprised
    if you’re asked what year you were born, how much you earn, whether
    you’re married with children, or how much you paid for your home.
    Especially shocking may be an unsolicited comment about your weight or
    appearance. However, rather than trying to insult, it’s usually a case of
    friendly curiosity. There isn’t the same concept of personal boundaries as
    exists in many other countries. The age question is legitimate, however, as
    the Vietnamese have different ways of addressing a person based on their
    age in relation to the speaker.
    THE WIRED GENERATION
    The Vietnamese spend an average of six hours and 47 minutes a
    day connected to the Internet, of which two hours and 21 minutes
    are spent on social media. It also has one of the highest
    smartphone penetration rates in Asia, with 73.5% of adults using
    one.
    ovuong/shutterstock ©
    I’M A CHILD OF TWO VIETNAMS
    I was born in Ho Chi Minh City, but thanks to an aunt with American citizenship,
    emigrated to the US with my immediate family just days before the fall of South
    Vietnam. My father is from the north near Hanoi. His family was part of the 1954
    mass migration of Northern Vietnamese to the south before the borders closed
    between the two Vietnams. My mother was born in Cai Rang, a tiny country town
    famous for having the largest floating market in the Mekong Delta. I love being a
    product of two Vietnams, growing up eating northern delicacies and hearing my
    grandparents speak in their clipped Hanoian accent while listening to stories in my
    mother’s countryside drawl about life as a child under French colonial rule.
    I’ve lived in Vietnam for more than a decade now and am part of the wave of
    returning Vietnamese – those who’ve lived abroad for work or education – now
    happily rebuilding a life back in the country of our birth.
    VIETNAMESE 101
    A LANGUAGE OF MELODIC
    BEAUTY
    Learning Vietnamese is a deep dive into an amazingly expressive
    and inventive language. By James Pham.
    Huyen Khong cave in the Marble Mountains | amadeustx/shutterstock ©
    WHAT DO ‘PIG FISH’, ‘rocket hands’ and ‘sad mouth’ have in common?
    They’re all words in Vietnamese, a sometimes-infuriating language to learn
    where a wrong tone can completely change the meaning of a word. But
    those who persevere are rewarded with a lifetime of gleeful discovery,
    uncovering a language that is incredibly expressive with a melodic beauty
    all its own.
    When Vietnam first emerged from a thousand years of Chinese
    domination at the beginning of the 10th century, Vietnamese was written
    using two systems of Chinese characters. Classical, or Literary Chinese
    (known as ‘Chũ Hán’ in Vietnamese), was favored for official purposes
    while a second script using an adapted set of Chinese characters to
    transcribe spoken Vietnamese (known as ‘Chũ Nôm’) was used in poetry
    and prose.
    Today, Vietnamese written in Chinese characters can still be seen on
    ancient steles across the country, including Hanoi’s Temple of Literature,
    and in decorative works of calligraphy. In modern-day Vietnamese, words
    of Chinese origin make up about 30% of everyday vocabulary. Other
    loanwords reflect a hundred years of French colonisation, including the
    food and clothing they introduced, as well as more recent American
    influences. For instance, a Vietnamese man might start the day off with a
    baguette slathered in bơ (from beurre, or butter) and a cup of cà phê (from
    café, or coffee) before putting on a sơ mi (from chemise, or shirt) and a cà
    vat (from cravate, or tie) and heading to the ga (from gare, or station).
    It wasn’t until the 17th century that a Romanised script for Vietnamese
    was codified by European missionaries, including Jesuit missionary
    Alexandre de Rhodes. The 29-letter alphabet, with the addition of five
    tones, greatly facilitated teaching and communicating with the average
    Vietnamese. Still, this new system of writing only caught on with the
    Catholic community for more than 200 years until the French colonial
    administration made it a part of compulsory education in 1910.
    Another reason why Vietnam adopted a Latin-based script while
    Cambodia and Laos, also part of French Indochina, never did was in large
    part thanks to the emperors of the Nguyen dynasty. Prioritising literacy for
    the common people, they used their power and influence to spread Chũ
    Quǒc Ngũ (‘national language script’) at the grassroots level in the village
    schools of southern Vietnam. Today Vietnam is one of the few Southeast
    Asian countries which uses a Romanised script while also boasting one of
    the highest literacy rates in the world.
    However, there is a darker side of Quǒc Ngũ, a script created by
    Christian missionaries sent in to pave the way for colonisation. The
    motivation behind creating an easier-to-use script was to aid in proselytising
    with the ultimate goal of separating the Vietnamese from their traditional
    beliefs, including Chinese-influenced Confucianism. Later, colonial powers
    used it to replace the Chinese writing system, further cutting ties with
    China. Some go so far as to call it a weapon of intellectual genocide, as
    within decades of it being made the national script, most Vietnamese were
    no longer able to read Chinese characters, and with them, hundreds of years
    of historical documents and ancient literature.
    While the familiar script might make Vietnamese seem easy to learn,
    especially for English and Romance language speakers, it’s actually
    classified as a ‘hard language’ by the Foreign Service Institute (tasked with
    training US diplomats), on par with languages like Russian and Amharic.
    This is in part due to the tones that go over the 35 or so vowel
    combinations, often described as dipping, creaky, rising or constricted.
    Depending on the tone, a word like ‘la’ can mean ‘shout’, ‘leaf’, ‘be’,
    ‘unusual’ or ‘exhausted’.
    Another unique aspect of Vietnamese is its use of classifiers, a word type
    that defines a set or group of objects.
    For instance, travellers might come across the word ‘thit’, or ‘meat’, on a
    menu. It can be followed with gà to mean chicken, bò for beef or heo for
    pork. Diners will also see the word bánh, a classifier often translated as
    cake. But add mì (wheat) and it becomes bread, or ngot (sweet) for pastry
    or cuǒn (roll) for steamed rice flour rolls stuffed with pork.
    Vietnamese is also often called monosyllabic, in that each morpheme or
    smallest meaningful linguistic unit, is only one syllable. However, the
    language has an infinite way of combining these morphemes to make new
    words.
    For instance, xinh means pretty. But reduplicate it and xinh xinh means
    ‘pretty, but not that pretty’. ‘Sad mouth’ is that snackish feeling you get
    when you’re not really hungry, but simply feel like eating for the sake of
    eating, while ‘rocket hands’ is the sound of clapping.
    Some Vietnamese words are also very pictorial, like ‘pig fish’, the
    Vietnamese word for dolphin (perhaps because of its protruding snout). Or
    ‘buffalo horn cake’, the word for croissant (flip the croissant like a U and
    imagine it atop a buffalo’s head). Others reduce an object to its simplest
    form, like ‘electronic talking’ for telephone or ‘cold cabinet’ for
    refrigerator.
    Then there are proverbs which offer insight into values the Vietnamese
    hold dear. ‘When you drink, remember the source. When you eat a piece of
    fruit, remember the one who planted the tree,’ goes a popular proverb,
    speaking to the deep gratitude the Vietnamese have for teachers, parents
    and ancestors.
    While Vietnamese can be incredibly frustrating to learn with its need for
    precise tones and a dizzying array of word combinations, its rich history
    and poetic nature also make it incredibly fulfilling to master.
    Children from the H’mong minority group | quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock ©
    THE ANCIENT ART
    OF REVIVING CRAFT
    How age-old, traditional techniques are eluding extinction by
    adapting to modern times. By Diana Truong
    Traditional Dó papermaking | anna rudanovski/shutterstock ©
    TRADITIONAL CRAFTS IN Vietnam are fading art forms with mass
    production taking over the market, thanks to its infinite variety of designs
    and cheap cost. Artisans don’t receive enough orders to operate regularly,
    and so battle with the hard decision of whether or not to continue their
    family’s legacy. Many leave their craft behind in search of a better, more
    stable source of income. Others cling to their knowledge, adapting to
    modern times and seeking different avenues for plying their wares.
    Traditional bamboo papermaking went into a severe decline after the
    industrialisation of paper production. The craft faced impending extinction
    until 2011, when artist Phan Hai Bang decided to resurrect and reinterpret
    the centuries-old method by adapting it to the 21st century. Bang, founder
    of Truc Chi art garden and project in Hue, experimented with different
    papermaking techniques and put his own twist to the very last step.
    Traditionally, the paper is finished by pressing wet layers until it becomes
    one sheet. Done ‘correctly’ and the process produces perfect paper with
    even texture. Bang realised that when the pressure is not uniform, as it is
    often when done by hand, the result is an uneven surface which can be
    moulded as the maker pleases, creating an artwork. Truc chi art has since
    appeared in exhibitions throughout the country and was one of the welcome
    gifts to the Emperor and Empress of Japan in 2017 during their visit to Hue.
    Attracted to the durability, resilience and subtle texture of handmade
    paper, Tran Hong Nhung visited traditional papermaking villages in the
    north to learn more about the 3rd-century craft. She was surprised to find
    that only a handful of families in Bac Ninh’s Dong Cao village practiced the
    art, the youngest aged 40 at the time.
    Determined to keep the craft alive, Nhung founded Zo Project to
    preserve, support and expand traditional papermaking techniques. The
    social enterprise works with artisans from paper villages to improve their
    methods, as well as designers to create new paper products for
    contemporary use.
    Villagers in Phuoc Kieu, located 10km from tourist hot spot Hoi An,
    began casting bronze in the 16th century and have continued to keep their
    fires burning, despite the impact of modernisation. Once famed and
    flourishing for its bronze gongs, at a time casting more than 200 tonnes of
    products each year, the bronze business fell out of favour from the 1980s
    onwards when cheaper imported products made by modern machines
    arrived on the market.
    Erwan Perzo of Metiseko saw great potential in Phuoc Kieu village and
    its talented artisans. In an effort to help keep their ancestral traditions alive,
    the founder of the sustainable fashion brand created a chic line of bronze
    statement jewellery in partnership with Phuoc Kieu villagers. The crafts
    people use a hammer and nail to engrave large sheets of bronze, precisely
    adjusting their pressure skilfully to achieve the desired touch and textures,
    before bending the metal into its final shape.
    In the southern Mekong Delta, families all over the region cultivated
    ebony fruit trees and utilised the produce to naturally dye silk. In recent
    decades, the labour-intensive practice slowed to a crawl due to lack of
    demand, high costs and other more rewarding uses for the land.
    Those skilled in the complicated dyeing technique left their trade for
    other ventures, and the special craft rapidly started to disappear. Determined
    to preserve this unique textile process, Thao Vu of Kilomet joined hands
    with ebony fruit artisans to make dyed silk for her fashion line.
    Traditionally, the dye on silk creates a shiny lacquer appearance. Through
    experiments with ebony fruit dye on different silk fabrics, the ecoentrepreneur
    was able to create a stunning charcoal black matte finish with
    Tussah silk.
    Through centuries of creation, adaptation and improvement, Vietnam’s
    papermaking, bronzework and silk dyeing arts have perpetuated and still
    remain significant cultural heritages. Each purchase of locally made goods
    gives the artisan confidence in their craft, a chance to improve their
    technique, and an opportunity to continue their art.
    Drying dyed cloth in the sun | tzido sun/shutterstock ©
    COFFEE CULTURE
    ROBUST & STRONG
    From street-side cafes to artisanal shops, finding quality caffeine in
    Vietnam is no tall order. By Katie Lockhart.
    Sorting coffee beans | mohammad aldi purnomoshutterstock ©
    THE MINGLED SCENT of cigarette smoke and coffee beans fills the air.
    A group of older men huddle around a game of dominoes. Next to them,
    two women take selfies while sipping cà phê sũa đá. Enjoying a coffee is
    Vietnam’s daily social ritual, a simple and affordable way to partake in one
    of life’s little pleasures.
    Vietnam grows over 30 million bags per year, with the number
    continuously rising, and the country’s coffee production is second only to
    Brazil. Besides growing a huge number of beans per year, both countries
    were also colonised by France at one point in their histories. Vietnam’s love
    of coffee can be traced back to France’s occupation in the mid- to late
    1800s. While the French prefer to drink a café au lait, aka coffee with fresh
    milk, that wasn’t an option in Vietnam. So, instead, they imported
    condensed milk to the country and today, a cà phê sũa đá, or an iced coffee
    with a thick layer of sweetened condensed milk, is the drink of choice for
    many – depending on which part of the country you’re in, of course.
    In the south of Vietnam, Saigon-style coffee is served in a tall glass with
    plenty of ice to combat the sweltering hot temperatures. In the centre and
    north of the country, it’s served in a smaller glass and often hot, an antidote
    to the occasional chilly, rainy weather.
    One of Hanoi’s coffee claims to fame is a cà phê trúng (egg coffee). Egg
    coffee is strong black coffee topped with a thick layer of super sweet,
    whipped egg foam. And throughout the country, coffee drinkers can find cà
    phê côt dùa (coconut coffee). This icy coffee frappe is made differently
    depending on the cafe but typically contains coconut cream or coconut milk
    and sweetened condensed milk.
    While it may be tempting to try all the delicious, flavourful varieties one
    after the other, don’t drink too many. Vietnamese coffee is known to get the
    heart racing and the forehead sweating – in other words, it’s strong. In fact,
    95% of all coffee grown in Vietnam is robusta, and the other 5% is arabica.
    Many believe that the stronger the coffee, the better the beans.
    Coffee connoisseurs who take their beans seriously source their robusta
    from the Central Highlands. At Sũa Cafe in Hoi An, manager Thanh Huynh
    gets arabica from Câu Đât Farm in Da Lat and robusta from Kon Tum in
    the Central Highlands. He then roasts the dried beans on the premises
    before grinding them and putting them straight into a steel or aluminium
    phin.
    A phin is a uniquely Vietnamese way of brewing coffee. ‘The phin
    consists of two main components – the brewing chamber and the press
    filter, which is used to ‘tamp’ or keep the coffee grounds down,’ explains
    Trung Phan, owner of the Espresso Station in Hoi An. ‘After water is
    added, the brewing chamber acts as an immersion chamber where most of
    the coffee extraction happens. As water moves through the brewing
    chamber, coffee is extracted. Fresh coffee drips into your cup from the
    bottom.’
    When jet lag kicks in, there’s no need to be picky. While wandering the
    tree-lined streets of Hanoi’s old town or the lantern-strewn alleys of Hoi
    An, you’ll notice a theme: fantastic coffee shops are everywhere. From
    narrow, hole-in-the-wall pit stops that open at 4am to nomad-cluttered coworking
    spaces open late into the night, there’s no shortage of places to get
    a caffeine fix. Artisanal, photo-worthy cafes are popping up on every
    motorbike-laden street corner, and cafes staffed by people with disabilities
    are also becoming more common including at Sũa Cafe in Hoi An.
    And if the slow-drip phin brewing process is any indication, Vietnamese
    coffee is meant to be savoured. When ordering, don’t bother asking for a togo
    cup. It’s the antithesis of Vietnam’s cherished laid-back cafe culture.
    Plus, you’ll miss out on the frenetic beauty of daily life as it passes by the
    cafe windows.
    Dalat cafe | quang nguyen vinh/shutterstock ©
    THE ILLEGAL TRADE
    IN WILDLIFE
    Illegal trade in tigers and other endangered animals has decimated
    Vietnam’s biological diversity. By Iain Stewart.
    Tigers are functionally extinct in Vietnam today | kyslynskahal/shutterstock ©
    THE RUMOUR spread quickly. A government news channel picked up the
    story. In August 2022 reports emerged that a tiger had been spotted by a
    villager inside the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, provoking
    excitement in conservation groups across the nation. Camera traps were set
    but no tiger sightings emerged.
    It’s possible the odd cat may have wandered across the border from Laos,
    but today tigers are functionally extinct in Vietnam – according to the NGO
    Save Vietnam’s Wildlife, the last photo of a wild tiger was taken way back
    in 1998.
    Attitudes are changing slowly but some Vietnamese people still consider
    tiger products to have medicinal qualities or to be an aphrodisiac. In a 2019
    survey the wildlife trade action group TRAFFIC found 6% of respondents
    (all were urban Vietnamese) had used tiger bone products. Factor in a
    population of 100 million and it’s clear the demand remains considerable,
    despite social media campaigns to stigmatise its use.
    Purchasing tiger products in Vietnam isn’t a matter of finding a
    traditional medicine store selling under-the-counter goods dispensed in a
    brown paper bag, the trade is now mainly online: TRAFFIC found over one
    thousand tiger products for sale on the web, mainly on Facebook.
    Vietnam is one of the most biologically diverse countries on earth, home
    to over 300 species of mammals (the UK has around 90) and 963 birds. A
    World Wildlife Fund (WWF) research trip in 2016 found 65 species new to
    science in Vietnam, including a crocodile lizard.
    And yet, if you visit a Vietnamese national park you’ll largely encounter
    a silent forest. Wildlife sightings are rare, mainly due to illegal hunting.
    Poachers set snares to trap animals for the illegal wildlife trade, primarily to
    sell to bushmeat restaurants (ironically many of these are located around the
    fringes of national parks). For hunters, the most profitable trade is securing
    rare animal meat so the wealthy can lay on an impressive spread over a
    business lunch.
    Countering these entrenched attitudes will take time. Groups like Save
    Vietnam Wildlife (SVW) target youngsters. They organise school visits –
    over 11,000 children living in buffer zones of national parks have
    participated in conservation programs. WildAid and CHANGE teamed up
    with Buddhist temples in 2019 to urge Vietnamese citizens to protecting
    rhinos, pangolins and elephants in a campaign called ‘Be Their
    Bodhisattva’ (‘Be Their Saviour’).
    Hanoi-based Education for Nature (ENV) has campaigned widely to
    combat wildlife trafficking using advertising: ‘eating wildlife, unpredictable
    danger’ was one successful slogan used. An ENV hotline set up in 2020 to
    report wildlife crimes resulted in ten tip-offs daily, leading to the rescue of
    species including tigers and monkeys.
    The Vietnamese government, historically slow to react or effectively
    tackle wildlife crime, also began to chip in, issuing missives in the wake of
    the COVID-19 pandemic. that stressed possible links between the
    consumption of wildlife and disease. By 2021 it seemed the message
    seemed to be getting through, as a WWF report found widespread public
    support in closing illegal wildlife markets.
    Ancient customs deeply respecting and even venerating marine
    megafauna, particularly whales, do exist in Vietnam.
    Tucked away in the backstreets of Phan Thiet, a provincial seaside town,
    there’s a surprise waiting inside the Van Thuy Tu Temple: the 19-metre
    skeleton of a fin whale. Vietnamese fishers believe whales are marine
    deities that guide and protect them in the ocean. The origins of this tradition
    are unclear, though it’s thought to date back to ancient Khmer and Cham
    times. Many other seafaring settlements have temples dedicated to whales
    and annual whale festivals (Le Hoi Cau Ngu) are held along the Vietnamese
    coast. Real issues remain, challenging deeply-held beliefs regarding
    traditional Vietnamese medicines and food. Attitudes are changing,
    particularly amongst the nation’s youth, but progress is still slow.
    Elephant eating grass | michel arnault/shutterstock ©
    FROM BIA HOI
    TO CRAFT BEER
    Welcome to Asia’s most exciting beer scene. By Brett Atkinson
    phuong d. nguyen/shutterstock ©
    VIETNAM’S ANNUAL BEER consumption is almost 4 billion litres, the
    highest across all Southeast Asian countries, and per capita, Vietnamese
    drinkers are said to consume the second-highest volume of beer – ranked
    just after Cambodia – for all Asian nations, even beating mega-economies
    such as China, South Korea and Japan. From the humblest of roadside bia
    hoi joints to cosmopolitan craft beer taprooms that wouldn’t be out of place
    in international beer hot spots like Portland, Melbourne or Wellington, it’s
    an incredibly diverse scene, and more often than not, having a few cold
    ones is accompanied by good food.
    Beer was first introduced to Vietnam by the French in the late 19th
    century, a reliable way to keep colonial soldiers refreshed, and soon beers
    brewed in Hanoi by Alfred Hommel were also finding a market with
    middle-class Vietnamese as a way to display their growing urban
    sophistication and drink something other than ruou gao (traditional rice
    wine). Higher prices for imported French wine also meant beer was a more
    affordable option. In the south, another Frenchman, Victor Larue, opened a
    small brewery in Saigon in the early 20th century. The brand established by
    him – ‘Larue’ – is still popular in the south of the country, and along with
    Heineken and Tiger is now owned by Singapore-based Asia Pacific
    Breweries. Look for Larue’s blue and yellow label with – slightly
    confusingly – a tiger on the label.
    Following the departure of the French in 1954, Hommel’s brewery was
    nationalised, and became HABECO (Hanoi Beer Alcohol & Beverage Joint
    Stock Corporation), the official brewery of Hanoi. At the end of the
    American War in 1975, other southern brands including 333 – known
    locally as ‘Ba Ba Ba’ – were incorporated into another state-owned
    company, SABECO (Saigon Alcohol Beer & Beverage Joint Stock
    Corporation).
    In 1961 HABECO introduced a beer style which is now a unique part of
    Vietnamese culture. Known as bia hoi (‘fresh beer’), this is a beer for the
    masses. Brewed fresh every morning, served unpasteurised and with no
    added preservatives, it’s delivered to bars on a daily basis and designed to
    be drunk the same day. Fruity, fresh and hoppy, and with an alcohol content
    of just 2–4%, bia hoi is perfect for drinking during the tropical heat of a
    Vietnamese summer.
    Travellers will now find informal street-side bia hoi bars around the
    country, but it remains a quintessential Hanoi experience. Pull up a tiny
    blue plastic chair and order up snacks like dried squid or grilled frog with
    chilli and lemongrass. Poured straight from the keg and costing around
    12,000d (US$0.50) it’s affordable to have several frosty glasses. A popular
    bia hoi spot in Hanoi is Nha Hang Lan Chin on the corner of Hang Tre and
    Hang Thung streets. As you’re drinking, look forward to a few choruses of
    ‘Tram phan tram!’ (‘100%’ or ‘bottoms up’) echoing around the tables.
    Also popular as a beer-swilling toast is ‘Mot! Hai! Ba! Dzo!’ (‘One! Two!
    Three! Drink!).
    Another beer tradition that’s popular in Vietnam is Czech-style
    brewhouses, a legacy of fraternal socialism in the days before the
    dissolution of Czechoslovakia at the end of 1992. Both the Czech Republic
    and Slovakia have sizeable Vietnamese communities, and in an interesting
    hop-fuelled reverse journey, the late 1990s saw breweries including Hoa
    Vien in Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi’s GoldMalt Beer being established.
    Now they serve up decent versions of traditional Czech lagers, and
    Vietnam’s historic links with the former East Germany – also a country
    with a substantial Vietnamese diaspora – means it’s not unusual to find a
    few German styles as well. Adorned with gleaming brewing equipment and
    decorated just like a pub in Prague or Pilsen, they’re a unique addition to
    the beer scene in Vietnam, and just maybe the only places in the world
    where you can order grilled squid followed by Czech-style guláš (goulash).
    The most recent and arguably most exciting development in the
    Vietnamese beer scene is the growth of craft beer, and there’s a sound case
    to be made that Vietnam is Asia’s best country for craft beer. Established in
    2015, Pasteur Street Brewing Company first opened in a compact space
    above a tailors shop in central HCMC, but it has now grown to include
    other HCMC locations and a bar in Hanoi. As a point of difference, Pasteur
    Street made more than 100 beers in their first year, with many brews
    harnessing local ingredients. Still regularly on their taps are a Belgian-style
    saison with ginger, lemongrass and pepper from Phu Quoc Island, a citrusy
    IPA infused with pomelo juice, and an IPA with jasmine flowers from Sapa
    – now Vietnam’s most popular craft beer. Pasteur Street’s Cyclo Imperial
    Stout, made with organic Dalat chocolate from HCMC-based Maison
    Marou, was judged the world’s best chocolate stout in the 2016 World Beer
    Cup.
    Around the same time as the arrival of Pasteur Street, smaller craft
    breweries to launch also included Platinum and Fuzzy Logic, and BiaCraft
    established themselves in HCMC. Now it has seven HCMC taprooms
    serving a huge range of Vietnamese beers.
    Also contributing in HCMC are East West Brewing, targeting a more
    local Vietnamese market, as well as Heart of Darkness Brewing which
    names all of its beer after the Joseph Conrad nove. Kurtz’s Insane IPA is its
    biggest and hoppiest beer, and it has successfully opened a taproom in
    Singapore. Elsewhere in Vietnam, Danang-based 7 Bridges Brewing also
    has taprooms in HCMC and Hanoi, and Furbrew, a smaller brewery based
    in Hanoi, has even brewed a beer inspired by pho, the classic Vietnamese
    soup dish.
    MOTORBIKES,
    A DOOMED AFFAIR?
    The motorbike is an iconic piece of Vietnam’s aesthetic. But for how
    much longer? By Joshua Zukas.
    Rush hour, Ho Chi Minh City | xuanhuongho/shutterstock ©
    WHAT WILL VIETNAM’S future cities look like? To get a sense of the
    hopes and dreams of city planners and property developers, look for the
    gigantic street-side 3D renders that shield the monstrous construction
    projects in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. In these advertisements, suited
    urbanites walk on pristine and uncluttered pavements. Sleek cars zoom past
    biophilic office buildings. Perhaps a helicopter hovers on the horizon.
    Two wheels bad?
    Just as telling as what these images do show is what they don’t, and chief
    among the long list of no-shows is the two-wheeler. Where are all the xe
    may (motorbikes)? Given the Vietnamese infatuation with their twowheeled
    darlings, not to mention the ever-present roar of them in every
    corner of the country, a Vietnam without motorbikes is unimaginable.
    And yet Hanoi, a city of almost six million motorbikes, is set to outlaw
    them by 2030. In 2017, bigwig officials voted for the ban almost
    unanimously, apparently believing that it will transform the city into one of
    orderly streets and clean air. Ordinary Hanoians scoffed at the idea, pointing
    out that the government often makes statements outlining aspirations for the
    future, but they rarely come to pass.
    Several years after the announcement, however, there’s been no
    backpedalling. On the contrary, there are whispers that HCMC, Vietnam’s
    biggest city, is mulling a similar ban, though officials deny this.
    Nevertheless, HCMC, which has at least a million more motorbikes than
    Hanoi, has still been asked by the national government to curtail their
    usage. So have the country’s three second-tier big cities: Hai Phong,
    Danang and Can Tho.
    Is Vietnam going to divorce the motorbike? Probably not. One reason is
    that these announcements were made when public transport developments
    looked brigh). Inner-city rail was once peddled as a viable alternative to the
    motorbike, but the Hanoi Metro network is limited and expansions are
    behind schedule. The state of the Ho Chi Minh City Metro is even worse;
    construction progress keeps getting stuck in a web of corruption scandals.
    Four wheels good?
    Unless public transport improves significantly before bans come into effect,
    city dwellers will be forced into cars and taxis instead, leading to even more
    congestion and pollution – not less. Motorbikes are one reason why Hanoi
    and HCMC have, for the most part, dodged the soul-destroying, citywide
    gridlock that afflicts Southeast Asian megacities like Jakarta and Manila. In
    2011, the World Bank theorised that if the Vietnamese were to drive cars as
    frequently as Malaysians, Hanoi would be perennially gridlocked.
    Despite glaring warnings from neighbouring countries, car ownership
    continues to soar in Vietnam. It’s difficult to know if the threat of bans is
    dismounting people from motorbikes and pushing them into cars, but it’s
    easy to identify other appeals of four wheels. Unfortunately, as car
    ownership grows, so too do the reasons to buy one, a kind of exponential
    version of what economists refer to as the tragedy of the commons.
    As automobile numbers increase, so does the risk of collision with one,
    which is more likely to be fatal for motorcyclists than for car drivers.
    Likewise, as cars increasingly clog the roads, journey times lengthen and
    pollution worsens, and being stuck in traffic is preferable in a dry, airpurified
    and air-conditioned car. The result of more cars on the road? More
    cars on the road.
    Unlock the countryside
    While the future of motorbikes in Vietnam’s big cities is unclear, in the
    countryside their reign remains unchallenged. We tend not to recommend
    that travellers drive motorbikes in urban areas as there are usually better
    and safer ways to get around: by foot in Hoi An, by bicycle in Hue, and by
    taxi in Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City and Danang.
    But when it comes to exploring the countryside, the capacity and
    confidence to ride is often the key to unlocking the finest experiences.
    Note that driving a two-wheeler over 50cc without a local or international
    motorbike license is illegal, though this is rarely enforced.
    It’s also important to know that travel insurance is unlikely to cover
    medical costs if you’re without a license and you get into an accident.
    Remember that you can always enjoy the benefits of a motorbike without
    needing to drive one. Just hire a driver.
    ‘Vietnam has inspirational road trips. You’ll find the far north
    has the most dramatic vistas, where the alpine scenery and
    legendary high plateau of Dong Van stand out.’
    Joshua Zukas
    ‘Don’t hesitate. Look for a busy hawker, squat on a plastic
    stool and chow down with the regulars. There are hundreds of
    different regional street food delicacies to feast on.’
    Iain Stewart
    THIS BOOK
    Design Development
    Marc Backwell
    Content Development
    Mark Jones, Sandie Kestell, Anne Mason, Joana Taborda
    Cartography Development
    Katerina Pavkova
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    Destination Editor
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    Assisting Editors
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    Thanks Sofie Foldager Andersen, Melanie Dankel, Clare Healy, Anne Mulvaney, Maja
    Vatrić
    Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited
    CRN 554153
    16th edition – Nov 2023
    ISBN 978 1 837 582 174
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