VIETNAM<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Contents
PLAN YOUR TRIP
The Journey Begins Here
Vietnam Map
Our Picks
Regions & Cities
Itineraries
When to Go
Get Prepared
The Food Scene
The Outdoors
THE GUIDE
HANOI
Find Your Way
Plan Your Days
Hoan Kiem Lake
The Old Quarter
The French Quarter
Ba Dinh & Western Hanoi
West Lake & Truc Bach Lake
Around Hanoi
NORTH VIETNAM
Find Your Way
Plan Your Days
Cat Ba Island & Lan Ha Bay
Sapa
Bac Ha
Mai Chau
Ha Giang
Ba Be National Park
Mu Cang Chai
Dien Bien Phu
CENTRAL VIETNAM
Find Your Way
Plan Your Days
Ninh Binh
Phong Nha
Hue
Lang Co
Danang
Hoi An
SOUTHEAST COAST
Find Your Way
Plan Your Time
Quang Nhai & Son My
Quy Nhon
Nha Trang
Mui Ne
Vung Tau
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
Find Your way
Plan Your Days
Cat Tien National Park
Dalat
Buon Ma Thuot
Kon Tum
HO CHI MINH CITY
Find Your Way
Plan Your Days
Dong Khoi Area
Reunification Palace & Around
Cholon
Da Kao & Around
District 2
Around Ho Chi Minh City
MEKONG DELTA
Find Your Way
Plan Your Time
Ben Tre
Vinh Long
Cao Lanh
Can Tho
Con Dao Islands
Chau Doc
Ha Tien
Phu Quoc Island
SIEM REAP & ANGKOR WAT
Find Your Way
Plan Your Time
Siem Reap
Angkor Wat
Angkor Thom
Prominent Angkor Temples
TOOLKIT
Arriving
Getting Around
Money
Accommodation
Family Travel
Health & Safe Travel
Food, Drink & Nightlife
Responsible Travel
LGBTIQ+ Travellers
Accessible Travel
Language
Nuts & Bolts
STORYBOOK
A History of Vietnam in 15 Places
Meet the Vietnamese
Vietnamese 101: A Language of Melodic Beauty
The Ancient Art of Reviving Craft
Coffee Culture: Robust and Strong
The Illegal Trade in Wildlife
From Bia Hoi to Craft Beer
Motorbikes: A Doomed Affair?
This Book
VIETNAM
THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE
Halong Bay | stefano zaccaria\/shutterstock \u00a9
I first visited Vietnam in 1991, when seeing a motorbike in Saigon or Hanoi
was quite a rare sight and most people were pedalling their way around by
cycle or getting around on foot. They were almost silent cities after dark.
Today the energy and pace of these metropolises is astonishing, with a tide
of two wheelers filling the streets and quiet corners can be challenging to
find. So when out exploring I have a hit list of cafes, often on leafy side
streets, where I can recharge with the uniquely Vietnamese caffeine and
sugar kick that is ca phe sua da (drip coffee with condensed milk). Then I
can decompress and reflect for a while before revving up for the next urban
adventure: perhaps searching for the perfect banh mi (Vietnamese-style
stuffed baguette).
Iain Stewart
@iaintravel
My favourite experience
is gazing over fishers\u2019 coracles and oceanic rollers towards the
Cham Islands from the shoreline on gorgeous An Bang beach,
with a Huda beer for company.
WHO GOES WHERE
Our writers and experts choose the places which, for them, define
Vietnam
nguyen quang ngoc tonkin\/shutterstock \u00a9
I\u2019ve lived in Hanoi for years, but for me the Old Quarter never gets
old. It\u2019s the medley of contrasts that keeps things infinitely
interesting. New money collides with traditional values, storied
heritage architecture surrounds, and tourists are everywhere. And
yet the neighbourhood never sold its soul to tourism. I love gazing
at St Joseph\u2019s Cathedral (pictured), perched on the porous border
between Hoan Kiem and the Old Quarter, while swigging a glass of
iced lemon tea.
Joshua Zukas
@joshuazukas
Born in Britain but based in Hanoi, Joshua writes about travel,
culture and architecture.
dudarev mikhail\/shutterstock \u00a9
What screams Vietnam better than being in the midst of its jungle?
Phong Nha-Ke Bang (pictured) is a mysterious world that
captivates anyone who ventures into its verdant realm. Covered in
thick forest, carved by crystal blue rivers and riddled with deep
caverns, the national park is a splendour to behold, with intriguing
layers of history, culture and infinite potential.
Diana Truong
@andsoigo
Diana is a Vietnamese-American who has lived in Vietnam since<\/p>\n\n\n\n
DREAM BEACHES
Vietnam\u2019s extraordinary coastline is defined by beautiful beaches
along most of its 3400km length. You\u2019re completely spoiled for
choice with surf-washed shores, idyllic coves, hidden bays and a
roster of impressive city beaches in Nha Trang and Quy Nhon.
Islands including Con Dao are blessed with lovely sands too.
Seasons
During the winter (late October to February) seas are usually too
rough for enjoyable swimming in Northern Vietnam and
temperatures are cool. Head south during these months.
dennis gross\/shutterstock \u00a9
Desert Islands
If you\u2019re really seeking serenity, gorgeous Lan Ha Bay has a host of
uninhabited islands where you can play Robinson Crusoe for a day
or two.
Muaz jaffar\/shutterstock \u00a9
The Environment
Unfortunately, trash is a problem on many beaches and taints the
tropical vision. In cities, clean-up patrols tidy things up and collect
flotsam and jetsam.
Phu Quoc Island | tran qui thinh\/shutterstock \u00a9
BEST BEACH EXPERIENCES
Watching the sun rise at glorious An Bang Beach 1, east of Hoi
An, with the lights of Danang to the north and Cham Islands on
the horizon.
Enjoying the evening scene at the lovely cove of Bai Xep 2,
where local women cook up fresh seafood on the sand.
Marvelling at the fascinating coastline around Bai Da Nhay 3
where craggy rock formations emerge from the shore and sea.
Chilling by the shore on the stunning beach of Bai Dam Trau 4
on Con Son Island, the largest of the Con Dao archipelago\u2019s 15
islands.
Scootering around the remote bays of northern Phu Quoc
Island 5, seeking powder-white sands and seashells.
NOODLE NATION
There\u2019s a seemingly endless array of noodle dishes in Vietnam,
from steaming, broth-rich northern classics like pho to spicy
Southern creations. Noodles come in many forms; some of the
most common are rice noodles (bun), glass noodles (mien) and
thick rice flour and tapioca (or wheat) noodles called banh canh.
Yellow egg noodles (mi) also feature, while Haiphong is famous
for its red banh da noodles served with crab.
North
Here the influence from China is obvious, with soy sauce dominant
and hotpots in evidence everywhere. Around Ninh Binh they favour
one made with goat meat.
joel whalton\/shutterstock \u00a9
Centre
balatran\/shutterstock \u00a9
Creations like cau lao (including sliced pork, rice noodles and
broth) seem like fusion food, showing myriad global influences that
reflect the region\u2019s trading history.
South
Expect to encounter the unusual, with seafood stews made with
rice vermicelli and vegetables famous in the Phan Thiet region and
stingray hotpots popular in Vung Tau.
Street food, Hanoi | dttmstock\/shutterstock \u00a9
BEST NOODLE EXPERIENCES
Slurping pho in Hanoi 1, its spiritual home, is a must but don\u2019t
pass on bun cha, the capital\u2019s other famous noodle dish.
Savouring cao lau in Hoi An\u2019s Old Town 2 and contemplating
this cultural charmer\u2019s Japanese and Chinese culinary heritage.
Feasting on bun nuoc leo 3 (a Cambodian-influenced noodle
soup made with fermented fish, chicken, coconut juice, banana
flowers and garlic chives) in Tra Vinh.
Ordering my quang in Danang 4, the city\u2019s most famous
noodle dish; it\u2019s usually served with pork, shrimp, egg, fresh
herbs and peanuts.
Enjoying a hearty bowl of bun bo hue 5 (rice vermicelli in a
meaty broth with beef, lemongrass, shrimp paste and sugar) in
Hue.
AUTHENTIC MARKETS
Vietnamese markets are a riot of colour and commerce. In the
northern highlands they are tribal gatherings where many minority
groups may congregate and enjoy a tipple of rice wine while they
trade. Down south in the Mekong Delta, you\u2019ll find floating
markets where vendors sell fruit and vegetables from boats. In
cities and towns throughout the land there are purpose-built central
markets and informal street markets.
Photography
For photographers, markets are ideal for taking shots of
Vietnamese villagers and their perfectly arranged pyramids of
tropical fruit or glistening seafood.
gracethang2\/shutterstock \u00a9
Early Birds
Most markets start very early in the day (and some operate in the
dead of night), so it\u2019s best to time your visits accordingly.
larcsky789\/shutterstock \u00a9
Craft Hunting
The best spots for craft- and souvenir-seekers tend to be markets
where tourists congregate, such as those in Ho Chi Minh City, Hoi
An and Hanoi.
Cai Rang floating market | lochuynh\/shutterstock \u00a9
BEST LOCAL MARKETS
Delving deep into Dong Xuan Market 1 in Hanoi for everything
from Vietnamese arts and crafts to fake designer threads.
Experiencing one of the most colourful markets in Southeast
Asia at Bac Ha 2, where the Flower Hmong people are the stars
of the show.
Rising at dawn, hiring a boat and surveying the delta water world
at Cai Be 3, where everything from durian to catfish is traded.
Exploring Binh Tay Market 4, which combines Vietnamese and
Chinese influences with its central memorial garden, fashion and
food stalls.
Marvelling at the the Mekong Delta\u2019s foremost floating market at
Cai Rang 5 with its hundreds of boat vendors.
GET OFF-GRID
Vietnam has a population of over 100 million, and most people
reside in a narrow strip of land that follows the coastline between
HCMC and Hanoi. If you yearn for the solitude of remote valleys
and empty beaches, you\u2019ll have to make a little effort to escape the
crowds.
The landscape between Mu Cang Chai and H\u00e0 Giang | thongnguyengallery\/shutterstock \u00a9
Tours
Getting off the beaten track is not straightforward unless you have
your own wheels. Hooking up with a tour operator which operates
in remote regions, is a good idea.
Regions
It\u2019s possible to get off-grid within an hour or so from most towns
but easiest in the thinly populated far north, with its epic mountain
ranges.
BEST OFF-GRID EXPERIENCES
Sail offshore to the rocky outcrop of Hon Son Island 1 near
Rach Gia; it only opened to travellers in the last few years.
Revving up a motorbike and scythe through soaring rice terraces
in Mu Cang Chai 2 and its dramatically seasonal views.
Enjoying the peaceful beach of My Hoa 3, a big hit with
kitesurfers.
Settling into a rustic lodge on the shores of Lak Lake 4 near
Buon Ma Thuot.
Trekking from one remote village to another and soaking up the
traditions of Pu Luong 5 hill tribes.
COFFEE & BEER
Coffee culture runs deep in Vietnam. Virtually every
neighbourhood in every town will have a little cafe where locals go
to destress from the office, the family or simply the traffic.
Drinking beer is another national obsession, and beer is available
virtually everywhere, usually in cans but also on draught, in craft
form and as bia hoi.
Cafes
Vietnamese cafes serve traditional treacle-thick coffee in many
guises and are wonderful environments to retreat from the street.
Cities boast speciality coffee shops for espresso-heads.
Bars
Most Vietnamese drink beer in restaurants with food, but bia hoi
(fresh beer) joints, raucous bars with DJs and craft beer places are
popular too.
bushpro\/shutterstock \u00a9
Local Brews
If craft beer isn\u2019t an option, Saigon and Huda brands are decentenough
lagers, and Larue, brewed on the central coast, is quite
good.
waclawmostowski\/shutterstock \u00a9
BEST CAFE & BAR EXPERIENCES
Mixing with the capital\u2019s chattering classes and enjoying some of
Hanoi\u2019s best cocktails in the atmospheric wine bar Tadioto 1.
Drinking in the legendary Saigon Saigon Rooftop Bar 2, once
the haunt of writers, spies and politicos and now famous for its
happy hour and views..
Sipping a quality single-estate arabica in the Dalat-area coffee
co-op K\u2019Ho Coffee 3 which supports K\u2019Ho people.
Enjoying the classy ambience at Te Bar 4, a stylish speakeasy
located in the heart of Danang.
Sitting in the shoreside garden overlooking the ocean rollers and
enjoying a coffee at Sound of Silence 5, a lovely An Bang
beach cafe.
ROAD TRIPS
Vietnam has a roster of inspirational road trips. You\u2019ll find the far
north has the most dramatic vistas, where the alpine scenery
between Sapa and Dien Bien Phu and legendary high plateau of
Dong Van stand out. Further south there\u2019s the great ocean road
between Quy Nhon and Nha Trang.
Dong Van Karst plateau | kid315\/shutterstock \u00a9
Easy Riding
If you don\u2019t ride a motorbike consider an Easy Rider tour, which
allows you to travel pillion. Dalat is a good starting point for trips.
Costs
Hiring a car and driver is quite pricey (from US$100 per day, more
for a 4WD) so team up with other travellers to share costs.
BEST ROAD TRIP EXPERIENCES
Negotiating the mountainous route from Dong Van to Meo Vac,
and the Ma Pi Leng Pass 1.
Travel between Hue and Danang via the endless switchbacks of
the Hai Van Pass 2.
Exploring the great coastal road 3 between Tuy Hoa and Nha
Trang, passing the Hom Gom sandbar.
Descending from Dalat to Nha Trang passing pine-forests to
Bidoup Nui Ba National Park 4.
Taking the route through Phong Nha-ke Bang National Park 5
for a jungle experience.
HISTORIC QUARTERS
Tours
Walking tours are an excellent way to help understand the history
and culture of Vietnam\u2019s historic districts and are available in all the
main centres.
noina\/shutterstock \u00a9
Exploring on Foot
Exploring Hanoi\u2019s manic Old Quarter is challenging with buzzing
motorbikes to compete with; the French Quarter is more
manageable. Hoi An\u2019s Old Town is pedestrianised.
efired\/shutterstock \u00a9
Private Guides
Hiring a one-on-one private guide can be an unforgettable
experience, bringing the culture and architecture of Vietnam to life
in a truly personal way.
Skylines in most Vietnamese cities are studded with highrises
today, and building skyscrapers is something of a national
obsession. But evocative, ancient districts still remain, most
impressively in Hue, Hoi An\u2019s Old Town, Hanoi\u2019s Old Quarter and
parts of District 1 in HCMC. In the Mekong Delta, towns like Ha
Tien have a certain languid charm and architectural interest.
BEST HISTORIC QUARTER EXPERIENCES
Wandering the atmospheric lanes of Hoi An Old Town 1,
replete with ancient merchants\u2019 houses, temples and pagodas.
Investigating the unique warren-like Old Quarter in Hanoi 2,
where every lane is associated with an ancient trade.
Crossing the Perfume River and exploring Hue Citadel 3, with
its palaces, gardens and temples.
Appreciating the elegant architecture in Hanoi\u2019s French Quarter
4, with its mansions, grand hotels and museums.
Delving deep inside District 1, HCMC 5, where there are
streets lined with crumbling old townhouses close to the Saigon
River.
NATIONAL PARKS &
RESERVES
Vietnam has over 30 national parks and over a hundred protected
natural reserves. While wildlife can be elusive, there are
stupendous landscapes to enjoy. You\u2019ll often find minority
homestays on the fringes of nature reserves, too. Parks are spread
around the mainland, and the Con Dao Islands offer a tempting
excursion out in the South China Sea (East Sea).
Mealtimes
Many national park restaurants only offer meals at set times and
it\u2019s necessary to book ahead so the cooks can buy and prepare
your grub.
ngoc tran\/shutterstock \u00a9
Protection
Though 9% of Vietnamese territory is officially protected, park
rangers are few in number and the state struggles with
conservation: you\u2019ll rarely see large animals.
jamesehunt\/shutterstock \u00a9
Hunting
Hunters frequent national parks and reserves, searching for
animals for the bushmeat trade. If you see game on menus, avoid it
as most is illegally sourced.
Cat Tien National Park | quang nguyen vinh\/shutterstock \u00a9
BEST NATIONAL PARK EXPERIENCES
Seeking gibbons and viewing crocodiles in southern Vietnam\u2019s
most rewarding national park, the rainforests and lagoons of Cat
Tien 1.
Heading for the evergreen hills of Ba Be 2, with its beautiful
lakes, rainforest, waterfalls, towering limestone peaks, birdlife
and minority villages.
Gasping in awe at the sheer majesty and gargantuan scale of the
remarkable cave systems in Phong Nha-Ke Bang 3.
Walking with a guide in search of wild elephants in Yok Don 4,
one of Vietnam\u2019s best wildlife experiences, and visiting minority
villages.
Sailing or kayaking around Bai Tu Long 5, revelling in the
beauty of its karst islands, tropical evergreen forest and lonely
sandy beaches.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
STREET FOOD
Don\u2019t hesitate. Just look for a busy hawker, squat on a plastic stool
and chow down with the regulars. There are hundreds of different
regional street food delicacies to feast on, from Hanoi\u2019s bun cha
(barbecued pork with rice vermicelli) to the humble but everdelicious
banh mi (baguette stuffed with p\u00e2t\u00e9, sliced meat, pickled
veg and a myriad other possibilities) which has to be a strong
contender for the world\u2019s best sandwich.
One Love
In Vietnam most street kitchens specialise in just one dish, or
perhaps a couple, which usually costs a dollar or so (more in the
capital and HCMC).
bebe see\/shutterstock \u00a9
Timing
Many hawkers only open for set mealtimes, so don\u2019t expect that
woman dispensing sticky rice cakes in the morning to be still
around after nightfall.
phuong d. nguyen\/shutterstock \u00a9
Food Hunt
Finding street food is not difficult, but prime hunting grounds tend
to be near marketplaces, schools, offices, factories and hospitals.
Basically, anywhere there\u2019s hungry folk.
Sidewalk barbeque, Hoi An | dh saragih\/shutterstock \u00a9
BEST STREET FOOD EXPERIENCES
Enjoying banh cong, a savoury mung bean \u2018muffin\u2019 stuffed with
whole shrimp on \u0110 De Tham in Can Tho 1.
Slurping down a steaming bowl of pho bo (beef noodle soup) at
Pho Thin in the backstreets of Hanoi 2.
Joining dozens of diners seeking wallet-friendly, delicious rice
and noodle dishes at Food Alley at 76 Hai Ba Trung in HCMC
3.
Browsing the food stalls in Vung Tau\u2019s 4fantastic seafood
market, and feasting on local crab and clam dishes.
Gnoshing on an array of delicious culinary specialities in Hoi An
Old Town 5.
TEMPLES, PAGODAS & MORE
Loaded with historic interest, Vietnam has superb Cham temples,
grandiose tombs, pagodas, and fine French colonial churches. The
greatest concentration is along Hue\u2019s Perfume River, which is lined
with monuments and an astonishing collection of emperors\u2019 tombs.
Historically, the nation has absorbed religious influences from
China, India and the Khmer kingdoms and fused them with
indigenous traditions.
Buddhist Sites
Pagodas (chua) incorporate Chinese ornamentation and motifs,
with buildings grouped around garden courtyards and adorned with
statues and stela.
gimas\/shutterstock \u00a9
Churches
Vietnam has around 10 million Christians \u2013 Catholics and
Protestants. Many of the most impressive churches were built
during the French colonial era.
wandering meo\/shutterstock \u00a9
Champa
The Cham people were great temple builders; principal features
include kalan (towers; the home of the deity), gopura (gateways)
and stone statues.
Temple of Literature | vietnam stock images\/shutterstock \u00a9
BEST TEMPLE EXPERIENCES
Absorbing the grandeur and splendour of Angkor Wat 1, Asia\u2019s
most magnificent temple complex.
Marvelling at a millennia of history at Hanoi\u2019s sublime Temple of
Literature 2, a former university.
Driving through rural roads then taking in the splendid Cham
ruins of My Son 3.
Touring the temples and monuments inside Hue\u2019s Citadel 4,
located on the banks of the Perfume River.
Exploring Nui Sam (Sam Mountain) near Chau Doc and its many
temples and shrines, including Lady Xu Temple 5.
WAR MEMORIES
In the centre of Vietnam, the Demilitarised Zone (DMZ) has the
greatest concentration of battle sites from the American War (and
some excellent tour operators to get you around them). There are
numerous war sites around Vung Tau, which was a big Anzac base.
In the far north, Dien Bien Phu should not be missed: there\u2019s a
good modern museum here to explain the significance of the battle
that precipitated the French expulsion from Indochina.
Museums
It may be nearly 50 years since the American War ended but its
impact is not forgotten. Most provincial museums have a room
dedicated to the war and a tank or two on display.
duc huy nguyen\/shutterstock \u00a9
Going Underground
The Cu Chi Tunnels are a very popular day trip from Ho Chi Minh
City. Check out the Vinh Moc Tunnels in central Vietnam as well.
jindowin\/shutterstock \u00a9
Battle Heroes
Vietnam battle heroes from ancient history are still very much
respected, and you\u2019ll encounter statues of Le Loi, the Hai Ba Trung
and generals across the nation.
tanes ngamsom\/shutterstock \u00a9
BEST WARTIME EXPERIENCES
Understanding the suffering of a nation, the historical
background and the courage needed to achieve reunification at
HCMC\u2019s War Remnants Museum 1.
Marvelling at the ingenuity and determination necessary to
construct (and live in) the extraordinary network of tunnels at Cu
Chi 2.
Exploring the key battle sites, war monuments, museums and
cemeteries of the dividing zone between north and south
Vietnam on a DMZ Tour 3.
Retracing the fall of Indochine in the northern city of Dien Bien
Phu 4, where the French were humiliated in 1956.
Joining an expertly-led tour to discover the many battle sites
around the southern city of Vung Tau 5.
CLAMS, CRAB & SHRIMP
Seafood is extraordinary in Vietnam. The Vietnamese love it, and
will shell out serious money for a feast. Of course, there\u2019s nowhere
better to indulge than by the coast, where rows of simple-looking
restaurants produce intricately flavoured seafood creations and
steam clams and grill fish to perfection.
Alive & Kicking
Most seafood, including crabs, lobsters, clams, sea snails and
many other species, are kept alive in restaurants\u2019 bubbling tanks or
tubs so it\u2019s super fresh.
paulwright999\/shutterstock \u00a9
Budget Accordingly
Eating seafood is never inexpensive in Vietnam and many
restaurants\u2019 pricing can be tricky to fathom. It pays to ask the cost
(usually per kilo) when ordering.
huy thoai\/shutterstock \u00a9
Asian Influences
The Vietnamese passion for seafood goes way beyond its borders.
Sushi is wildly popular and Thai and Chinese seafood dishes are
common on local menus.
Night Market in Phu Quoc | hanna summer\/shutterstock \u00a9
BEST SEAFOOD EXPERIENCES
Delving into the super-fresh seafood delights at the bustling
night market in Ha Tien 1 for real value and flavour.
Tasting delicious hau mo hanh (grilled oysters with green onion
oil) in Lang Co 2.
Feasting on dishes like ngheo hap sa (clams steamed with
lemongrass and chilli) in HCMC\u2019s District 4 3.
Cruising along the streetfood stalls at Nha Trang 4, where
there\u2019s a whole block of speciality seafood places and prices are
fair.
Dining right on the sandy beach at Bai Xep 5; here local
villagers set up fish and seafood barbecues in the evening.
GUIDED TOURS
Culturally, Vietnam can be tricky to understand. Joining a wellstructured
tour will really help you get to grips with the country
and its customs. The possibilities are incredible, with walking
tours, street food tours, motorbike and bicycle excursions, and
guided hiking trips just some of the options. The one essential tour
that every visitor wants to experience is a Halong Bay island
cruise, but be sure to choose your operator very carefully.
Finding Value
The quality of cheapo tours peddled in HCMC and Hanoi is often
terrible, with poor service, rushed itineraries and dodgy transport.
Stick to reputable operators.
asia images\/shutterstock \u00a9
Quirky Tours
Niche possibilities include guided craft beer tours in HCMC and
Hanoi and coracle river trips around Hoi An, which include some
fishing.
larcsky789\/shutterstock \u00a9
Minority Villages
If you\u2019re visiting tribal villages in the north or southwest highlands,
having a knowledgeable guide is important to avoid cultural faux
pas.
Lan Ha Bay | sen photos\/shutterstock \u00a9
BEST TOUR EXPERIENCES
Cruising the incredible karst islands of Lan Ha Bay 1, far less
touristy and arguably more rewarding than neighbouring Halong
Bay.
Getting the full cultural and historical background of the city
explained on an Old Compass Travel 2 tour in HCMC.
Weaving around the bucolic backroads of Hoi An 3 on a scooter
tour, taking in craft industries and rice fields.
Exploring the world\u2019s greatest cave systems inside Phong Nha-
Ke Bang National Park 4 with Oxalis Adventure Tours or
Jungle Boss.
Getting off the beaten track around Dalat 5 to see waterfalls,
rivers and forested highlands.
URBAN BUZZ
Vietnam\u2019s two metropolises, Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City, have a
visceral energy that will delight urbanites. Few places on earth are
as dynamic and exciting, yet you don\u2019t have to dig too deep to
uncover tradition too, for a step or two off the grand boulevards are
hem (alleys), home to street kitchens and craft industries. In
contrast, Danang is a modern, less-frenetic coastal city boasting a
sparkling shoreline and imposing riverside.
Bars
The bar scene in Vietnam\u2019s big cities is superb, with dive bars on
backstreets, lounge bars, skybars and craft beer hangouts.
hit1912\/shutterstock \u00a9
Clubbing
HCMC is undoubtedly Vietnam\u2019s most progressive city with DJs
spinning house and techno beats to lively dance floors. Hanoi ranks
second, and other cities tend to be tame.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
marie shark\/shutterstock \u00a9
Fashion
You\u2019ll find Vietnamese boutiques showcasing local designers in
District 1, HCMC, and spread around inner Hanoi. Nha Trang and
Danang also have emerging fashion scenes.
The Cafe Apartments building, Ho Chi Minh City | elena ermakova\/shutterstock \u00a9
BEST URBAN EXPERIENCES
Walking the labyrinth of lanes that is Hanoi\u2019s Old Quarter 1
where each street has a unique craft tradition and sense of
history.
Expecting the unexpected, with hip bars and cool boutiques
hidden in crumbling 1950s apartment blocks in District 1 2,
HCMC.
Explore central Danang 3, home to skybars which offer
unmatched views of the Han River and its spectacular bridges.
Finding vinyl-only bars, urban art galleries, cool cafes and lots of
resident creatives in Thao Dien 4, HCMC.
Wandering the historic riverside and its sculpted gardens, narrow
alleys and wide boulevards of buzzing Can Tho 5.
MEET THE MINORITIES
Vietnam is home to 53 ethnic minority groups (over 15 million
people). Most live in northern Vietnam, carving an existence out of
the lush mountain landscapes along the Chinese and Lao borders.
They tend to form the poorest sections of Vietnamese society,
despite improvements in rural schooling and regional healthcare.
Key Regions
In the southwest highlands traditional Bahnar and Jarai villages are
rewarding to visit, while in the far north head for settlements
around Sapa and Bac Ha.
quang nguyen vinh\/shutterstock \u00a9
Customs
Many minorities practise a mixture of animism, ancestral worship
and conventional religion. The hill tribes\u2019 long history of
independence keep many away from the lowlands.
cravena\/shutterstock \u00a9
Clothing
In the far north, many hill tribe women wear incredible hand-woven
outfits, particularly the Hmong people. In the southwest highlands,
attachment to traditional dress is rarer.
Lo Lo Chai village, Ha Giang | vietnam stock images\/shutterstock \u00a9
BEST ETHNIC MINORITY EXPERIENCES
Plotting a two-wheel trip around the extraordinary Ha Giang
loop 1, where each night is spent in a different ethnic minority
village.
Travelling with an expert minority guide to hike the trails and
learn about highland life in the hills around Sapa 2.
Delve into the countryside encircling Kon Tum 3, which is
punctuated by the towering nha rong (communal houses) of the
Bahnar.
Tuck into a multifarious homestay meal in a traditional house in
Mai Chau 4; the spread will include several ethnic Thai dishes.
Hitting the markets in and around Bac Ha 5 on a weekend,
which include Can Cau, held on a Saturday.
REGIONS & CITIES
Find the places that tick all your boxes.
ITINERARIES
Southern Beaches
Allow: 8 Days Distance: 431km
For most folk this trip is all about enjoying beach time on Vietnam\u2019s
most impressive coastline and perhaps some watersports. But wait,
it\u2019s also the heartland of the ancient Cham culture and centuries-old
monuments still inspire awe at Po Nagar (Nha Trang) and Thap Doi
(Quy Nhon).<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Ninh Van Bay, Nha Trang | simon dannhauer\/SHUTTERSTOCK \u00a9
1 QUY NHON 1 DAY
Start in Quy Nhon (which has an airport and mainline train station)
and enjoy a day taking in the easy-going ambience of this seaside
city. Tour its lovely Cham temples and visit the city museum, then
explore the promenade before feasting on wonderful seafood.
30 mins from Quy-Nhon-Bai Xep
Detour: Consider a visit to the Quy Hoa Beach & Leper Hospital
en route.
hien phung thu\/shutterstock \u00a9
2 BAI XEP 2 DAYS
Imagine a perfect cove, with a half-moon beach and a smattering of
low-key guesthouses fronting the shoreline and that\u2019s Bai Xep.
Sunrises are usually inspirational, days long and lazy, and in the
evenings local women set up seafood barbecues on the sand. It\u2019s
the perfect place to decompress and recharge.
4 hr drive from Bai Xep-Nha Trang
rubiker94\/shutterstock \u00a9
3 NHA TRANG 2 DAYS
Facing a sparkling bay dotted with islands, Nha Trang is one of
Vietnam\u2019s most popular beach resorts. But it\u2019s also a prosperous
city, with excellent street food, independent boutiques and cool
coffee shops, Cham monuments, Buddhist temples and museums.
5-hr train journey from Nha Trang to Mui Ne
zhukov oleg\/shutterstock \u00a9
4 MUI NE 3 DAYS
Mui Ne is a tropical idyll with towering sand dunes and a laid-back
vibe \u2013 or for those with the stamina, get stuck into some kitesurfing
or a sailing course. There are kilometres of palm-fringed coastline
to enjoy, with many hotels situated right on Mui Ne\u2019s golden sands,
and a pretty lively after-dark bar scene too.
Detour: The traditional, intriguing port of Phan Thiet is close by.
det-anan\/shutterstock \u00a9
ITINERARIES
Northwest Mountains
Allow: 10 days Distance: 1294km
This outstanding road trip takes in some of Vietnam\u2019s most
spectacular mountainous terrain and a mosaic of ethnic minorities.
It\u2019s best covered with your own transport (either two wheels or four)
from Hanoi. Views are simply breathtaking and road conditions
generally good. As the terrain is mountainous, journey times can be
quite slow, so set out early on travel days. Mai Chau is around a 3\u00bd-
hour ride from central Hanoi.
1 MAI CHAU 1 DAY
Leaving Hanoi, the first settlement of interest is Mai Chau, home to
the White Thai people. It\u2019s the ideal introduction to ethnic minority
life, where the homestays have a rustic charm, surrounded by rice
fields. Locals rent bicycles so you can explore, and there are hiking
trails in the nearby hills and guides to assist you.
7 \u00bd -hr drive from Dien Bien Phu.
phuong d. nguyen\/shutterstock \u00a9
2 DIEN BIEN PHU 2 DAYS
Dien Bien Phu is a name that resonates with history. It was here
that the French colonial story ended in defeat. Touring the
impressive military sights and museums is an educating
experience. The city is not particularly attractive, but it\u2019s a regional
capital with a decent choice of accommodation and restaurants.
6\u00bd -hr drive DBP-Sapa
nguyen phuc thanh vietnam\/shutterstock \u00a9
3 SAPA\u030c 2 DAYS
Sapa is the premier destination in the northwest, thanks to the
infinite views and the amazing diversity of people who live here.
You\u2019ll eat well, for there\u2019s an outstanding choice of both Northern
Vietnamese and Western restaurants. Factor in some craft
shopping and consider a day hike or bike trip while you\u2019re there.
2 \u00bd-hr drive Sapa to Bac Ha.
sirisak baokaew\/shutterstock \u00a9
4 BAC HA 3 DAYS
The understated highland town of Bac Ha makes a great base for
some memorable forays to highland markets and minority villages
(the most colourful are those of the Flower Hmong people). Hook
up with a local guide to get to really understand the region\u2019s unique
cultural appeal, and culinary dishes.
7-hr drive Bac Ha to Ba Be.
gil.k\/shutterstock \u00a9
5 BA BE 2 DAYS
With jagged limestone mountains soaring over highland lakes, Ba
Be National Park offers some of Vietnam\u2019s most dramatic
scenery. Enjoy revelling in the epic views, exploring the lakeshore
by boat or kayak, and enjoying the hospitality of the local Tay
people in one of their rustic homestays. Treks and boating trips are
best organised via the national park office or your homestay.
quang nguyen vinh\/shutterstock \u00a9
ITINERARIES
Central Coastline
Allow: 8 days Distance: 354km
This route covers two of the nation\u2019s most culturally rich towns (Hue
and Hoi An) as well as its most progressive city (Danang). Alongside
historic monuments and amazing caves, there\u2019s a smorgasbord of
regional food specialities to try, from imperial cuisine to street food
snacks. The city of Dong Hoi is a gateway to the north of the region.
1 PHONG NHA KE BANG NATIONAL PARK 2 DAYS
Phong Nha Ke Bang is Vietnam\u2019s most rewarding national park to
visit. It offers incredible scenery, including karst mountains, jungle
rivers and gigantic caves that will impress even the most jaded of
travellers. There\u2019s an excellent choice of tour operators and hotels.
2-hr drive Phong Nha Ke Bang National Park to DMZ.
vietnam stock images\/shutterstock \u00a9
2 DMZ 1 DAY
The DMZ (Demilitarised Zone) encompasses an array of war
monuments and battle sites around the Ben Hai River. It functioned
as a border between North and South Vietnam between 1954 and<\/p>\n\n\n\n
THE GUIDE
VIETNAM
Chapters in this section are organised by hubs and their surrounding
areas. We see the hub as your base in the destination, where you\u2019ll
find unique experiences, local insights, insider tips and expert
recommendations. It\u2019s also your gateway to the surrounding area,
where you\u2019ll see what and how much you can do from there.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Fishing, Quay Son River, Cao Bang | quang nguyen vinh\/shutterstock \u00a9
HANOI
A CITY ON THE MOVE
Vietnam\u2019s capital oozes character, with its hodgepodge architecture,
anarchic traffic and a rambunctious population.
Train Street | tony albelton\/shutterstock \u00a9
This historic city has one foot buried in a fascinating past, while the other
strides confidently into the future. With many millions of motorbikes, it surges
with the incessant din of blaring horns, while historical nuggets from periods of
French rule and Chinese influence glint in the haze.
Explore the streets and alleys of Hoan Kiem and the Old Quarter, where craft
families hawk their produce. Practise tai chi at dawn or play chess with goateed
grandfathers at dusk.
Devour divine food at every corner, sample market wares, uncover an
evolving arts scene and hunt down the perfect egg coffee. Meet the people,
delve into the past and witness the constant evolution of a messy, beautiful,
salmagundi of a city.
Emperor Ly Thai To moved his capital here in 1010 CE, naming it Thang
Long (Ascending Dragon). The city was renamed Hanoi by Emperor Tu Duc in
1831, from the words ha (river) and noi (inside), referring to its position within
a bend of the Song Hong (Red River). Hanoi served as the capital of French
Indochina before becoming a bastion of Vietnamese communism. During the
American War, heavy US bombing destroyed parts of Hanoi and killed
hundreds of civilians.
One of the prime targets was the 1682m-long Long Bien Bridge. US aircraft
repeatedly bombed this strategic point, yet after each attack the Vietnamese
managed to improvise replacement spans and return road and rail services.
It is said that the US military ended the attacks when US prisoners of war
(POWs) were put to work repairing the structure.
Today the bridge is renowned as a symbol of the tenacity and strength of the
people of Hanoi.
The city remains richly decorated with colonial and Soviet architecture,
hidden-away temples and a honeycomb of small alleyways.
While voracious modernisation may have drowned out some of Hanoi\u2019s
vibrant palette of Vietnamese, Chinese, French and Russian influences, many
tempting islets of heritage remain in the churning sea of modern construction.
Old Quarter | gary yim\/shutterstock \u00a9
THE MAIN AREAS
HOAN KIEM LAKE
Hanoi\u2019s geographical and spiritual heartland.
THE OLD QUARTER
Labyrinthine ancient trading quarter.
THE FRENCH QUARTER
Boulevards, mansions, parks and lakes.
BA DINH & WESTERN HANOI
Grand monuments and local life.
WEST LAKE & TRUC BACH LAKE
Neighbourhood wanderings and international flair.
BEYOND HANOI
Legendary bays, pagodas and national parks.
Find Your Way
On paper Hanoi is one of Southeast Asia\u2019s biggest metropolises, but it
often feels more like a colossal cluster of gigantic villages. Hoan Kiem
Lake is at Hanoi\u2019s heart, and from there the city fans out in all directions.
Plan Your Days
Hanoi might be huge, but moving between places of interest rarely takes
more than half an hour. Don\u2019t forget to sit, drink, eat and watch the world
go by \u2013 it\u2019s what Hanoi is all about.
Cyclo rider for hire | studiolaska\/shutterstock \u00a9
DAY 1
Morning<\/p>\n\n\n\n
HA GIANG
Ha Giang (pronounced Ha Zang) province is an otherworldly landscape of
limestone pinnacles, swooping gorges and cascading rice terraces. The far north
of the province has some of the most spectacular scenery in Southeast Asia, and
the trip between Yen Minh and Meo Vac via the Ma Pi Leng Pass will blow the
minds of even experienced road trippers. Hoang Su Phi is an overlooked corner
in the west of the province famed for its terraced farms.
Unesco designated the Dong Van Karst Plateau as one of its National
Geoparks \u2013 Vietnam\u2019s first \u2013 due to the unique nature of its limestone geology.
Ha Giang\u2019s secret is well and truly out of the bag and visitor numbers increased
rapidly in the years running up to the Covid-19 pandemic. That said, there are
plenty of quiet back roads and stunning corners to explore and tourist
infrastructure is improving.
HIGHLIGHTS
1 Dong Van
SIGHTS
2 Deo Gio
3 Du Gia
4 Fairy Waterfall
5 Kiou Leou Ti
6 Lung Cu Flag
7 Ma Pi Leng Pass
8 Pho Ban
9 Viet Quang
10 Vuong Palace
11 Xin Man
TOP TIP
There are only really two ways to tackle northern Ha Giang: as part of a tour or with your own
wheels. While it is possible to explore the area on public transport, buses are small, slow,
uncomfortable and unreliable. Besides, in northern Ha Giang the journey is the reward; being
couped up in a bus impairs the views.
BEFORE YOU GO
Don\u2019t expect to see wildlife; you\u2019ll only be disappointed. Do expect to meet a multitude of
ethnic groups. Learn about them with a visit to the Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi first.
Don\u2019t rush this part of the country. You need at least three full days after arriving in Ha
Giang City to make the most of it. Do bring a sleeping bag liner for chilly nights and
musty beds. Don\u2019t expect perfect weather all of the time. Rain clouds gather even in dry
months (October – December).
Dong Van Karst Plateau
UNESCO GLOBAL GEOPARK
The Dong Van Karst Plateau was designated a Unesco Global Geopark in 2015
for the height of its peaks (Mt. Mieu Vac is almost 2000m high) and depths of
its canyons (Tu Son Canyon is 800m deep). The geopark and its surroundings
are rich in both flora and fauna. It is also culturally rich; the area is home to at
least 17 ethnic groups.
THE GEOLOGY
The geopark essentially forms part of the foothills of the Himalayas, which
officially begin many hundreds of kilometres northwest of Ha Giang. Around
60% of the over 550-million-year-old park\u2019s surface is limestone, with
geoheritages that include karsts, caves and tectonics. Important events in Earth\u2019s
history are recorded in the geology, including the Frasnian-Famennian and
Permian-Triassic mass extinction boundaries. Palaeontological discoveries
include ancient fish, brachiopods and fossilised paths of mollusca.
THE PEOPLE
The Dong Van Karst Plateau is home to at least 17 different ethnic groups, each
with their own language, architecture, clothing and way of life. Four ethnic
minority groups that you are likely to encounter are the Hmong, the Dzao, the
Tay and the Hoa. The Hmong, recognisable by the multicoloured skirts worn by
the women, tend to live and farm high up in the hills. The Dzao, identifiable by
their bold red headdresses, are master foragers, a skill they\u2019ve utilised for herbal
baths that they can arrange for homestay guests in Nam Dam Village. The Tay
often live close to water in lofty stilt houses, which you can see in Du Gia
Village. The Hoa are ethnic Chinese, and you\u2019ll find their unstilted houses \u2013
look for Chinese characters above the door \u2013 in Pho Bang. A fifth group you
might encounter are the Lolo in Lo Lo Chai at the foot of Lung Cu Flag Tower.
Lolo women wear quilted tunics, multicoloured ribbons and fluffy tassels and
beads.
THE FAUNA
The geopark is surprisingly rich in rare fauna, though the chances of spotting
wildlife are very low. It has a small number of wild moon bears (also known as
Asian black bears), so-called for the cream-coloured, crescent-shaped tuft of
hair on their chests, and southern serows, a horned mountain goat that also
inhabits other parts of Southeast Asia. The most mysterious of all the exotic
animals found in the park is the Tonkin snub-nosed monkey. This fat-lipped,
orange-maned monkey was believed extinct until its rediscovery in the 1990s,
and is now on the list of the world\u2019s 25 most endangered primate species.
Dong Van Karst Plateau | soft_light\/shutterstock \u00a9
THE HERITAGE
Aside from the landscapes and peoples, there are a handful of notable sights in
the Dong Van Karst Plateau and its environs. Dong Van old town has an
attractive market square that erupts in colour on Sundays and a smattering of
handsome, but crumbling, ancient houses. At the top of the karst peak that
overlooks central Dong Van are the crumbling ruins of a French fort, accessible
by a small path east of the market. The Dinh Vua Meo (Vuong Palace) is an
intriguing Chinese-Hmong structure built by the French for a local king in the
1920s. The climbable Cot Co Lung Cu (Lung Cu Flag Tower), is an epic
monument that marks Vietnam\u2019s northernmost point.
WHY I LOVE HA GIANG
Joshua Zukas, co-author Lonely Planet Vietnam
Many of my best experiences in Vietnam, from drinking rice wine with a Dzao granny to
waterfall swimming with a Tay teenager, were had in Ha Giang. Yes, Ha Giang provides all
the ingredients to cook up a one-of-a-kind road trip adventure, but for me it\u2019s the people
that make it. Ha Giang\u2019s scenery is so visually rich that it\u2019s easy to overlook its cultural
wealth. The area is home to dozens of ethnic groups \u2013 perhaps even more than official
statistics would have you believe \u2013 and each one is different. I\u2019ve tried to tease this apart
in my Ha Giang loop motorbike itinerary, where each night is spent with a different
ethnic group.
THE HA GIANG LOOP
The so-called Ha Giang Loop denotes a road trip, usually done on a motorbike,
from Ha Giang City through the Dong Van Karst Plateau and back again. This
remains the best way to explore this part of the country as distances are vast and
the scenery changes at every road bend.
GETTING AROUND
Ha Giang City, is accessible by bus (six hours) from Hanoi. Book tickets through your
Hanoi hotel or one of the many travel agents in the Old Quarter. If staying in Hoang Su Phi
without your own wheels, your hotel there can arrange private transfers to and from
Hanoi. Getting around the province by public transport is hard going, so renting your own
wheels or booking a tour is recommended. Do this in Hanoi or through a reputable agency
like NoMadders or QT Motorbikes and Tours in Ha Giang City.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
ROAD TRIP
Motorbiking in Northern Ha Giang
There are many ways to tackle northern Ha Giang by road and this
itinerary offers just one; don\u2019t be afraid to adapt these plans for your
own adventure. Recommended motorbike rental and tour
companies are QT Motorbikes and Tours and NoMadders, but there
are others. It\u2019s also worth checking the permit and licence situation
before setting off.
Day 1: Ha Giang \u2013 Nam Dam
A half-day drive, heading north on the QL4C from Ha Giang City through
pretty villages before hitting the Bac Sum Pass and viewpoint. From there
the road descends through flower fields before climbing again to Quan Ba
Pass (Heaven\u2019s Gate), one of the journey\u2019s most dramatic sights. Descend
into Tam Son town, which has a few passable guesthouses, but a nicer
place to stay is the Dzao village of Nam Dam, 6km up a side road and
home to over a dozen homestays. The most stylish of these is the
traditional-style Dao Lodge, but the family homestays are great too.
Ma Pi Leng Pass, Ha Giang | HUY THOAI\/SHUTTERSTOCK \u00a9
Day 2: Nam Dam \u2013 Lung Cua
Continue north along the Mien River before zigzagging east through
terraced farms and pine forests to Yen Minh. As the road meanders north,
the views become progressively extraordinary. To see a rare and interesting
Hoa (ethnic Chinese) village with a handful of traditional houses, look out
for signage to Pho Bang 20km north of Yen Minh. The road then passes
the unmissable Vuong Palace before climbing 30km north to the Lung Cu
Flag Tower and a Lolo village with homestays. Homie Homestay is a
good option.
Day 3: Lung Cu \u2013 Meo Vac
Dong Van is 25km southeast of Lung Cu with accommodation options
should you choose to spend the night and extend the journey. Consider
taking an extra day to hike the Sky Path; you can arrange transport, a guide
and a packed lunch in and around the market square. The road connecting
Dong Van with Meo Vac is the famed Ma Pi Leng Pass, with rippling hills
that tumble down to the distant waters of the Nho Que River and its
emerald-green gorge. Meo Vac has plenty of hotels, but for a unique stay,
head to Auberge de Meo Vac, a lovingly restored Hmong house dating
from the 19th century.
Day 4: Meo Vac \u2013 Du Gia
Leave Meo Vac and the QL4C by heading west on the winding DT182 and
DT176 all the way to Mau Due. From here it feels as if you\u2019ve left the best
of the scenery behind, before the road dramatically and unexpectedly
ascends again as it continues south. The road then descends into Du Gia,
an idyllic Tay village enveloped by rice terraces and with a handful of
homestays. There are a couple of waterfalls close to Du Gia where it\u2019s
possible to swim; ask where they are in the village.
Day 5: Du Gia \u2013 Ha Giang
There are two ways back to Ha Giang City from Du Gia: west along the
DT181 to meet the QL4C before heading south, or south DT176 before
meeting the QL34 and heading west. The first option is faster and involves
only new road, so closes the loop cleanly. The second option is more
scenic, but takes a little longer.
Beyond Ha Giang
The mountainous provinces east of Ha Giang enjoy quieter roads, a
handful of culinary specialities and Vietnam\u2019s most spectacular waterfall.
Ha Giang was once touted as Vietnam\u2019s final frontier. Then tourists discovered
the province and travel pioneers searched for somewhere fresh to brag about.
Some settled on Cao Bang, the province immediately east of Ha Giang and less
than an hour from Meo Vac. From its border with Ha Giang, Cao Bang province
stretches eastward along the Chinese frontier until it reaches the ethereal Ban
Gioc Waterfall (Thac Ban Gioc), a terraced cascade shared with Vietnam\u2019s
northern neighbour. Further east still lies Lang Son, with less lofty peaks but
even fewer visitors. Though striking, the scenery in Cao Bang and Lang Son
can\u2019t compete with the dramatic vistas of Ha Giang, but they prove that
Vietnam still has a few tricks up its sleeve.
Cao Bang lakes | TRAN VIET LINH\/SHUTTERSTOCK \u00a9
TOP TIP
If you\u2019re bypassing Ha Giang completely, it\u2019s easier to reach both Cao Bang and Lang Son from
Hanoi.
Spectacular Waterfall
THE END OF THE ROAD
Straddling the border with China, where the falls are known as Detian Falls, is
Ban Gioc Waterfall (Thac Ban Gioc), a genuinely jaw-dropping spectacle of
terraced cascades framed by jungle-cloaked karsts. Few make it this far
northeast, only adding to Ban Gioc Waterfall\u2019s intrigue. The falls are two hours
northeast of Cao Bang City, and though there isn\u2019t much to do, bar take a short
boat journey to get even closer to the spray (swimming is prohibited), the falls
and nearby Phat Tich Truc Lam Ban Gioc Pagoda are worthy of at least a
couple of hours. So is Tiger Cave (Dong Nguom Ngao), less than 10 minutes
away.
Ban Gioc Waterfall | TATIANA_KASHKO_PHOTO\/SHUTTERSTOCK \u00a9
BEST EATERIES IN LANG SON & CAO BANG
Cho Lang Son
Lang Son Market and around has several market stalls serving tasty Vietnamese fare,
including banh cuon in the morning and coong phu in the early evening. $
Nha Hang Ngon Cao Bang
Popular local spot in Cao Bang City specialising in Cao Bang sausage and banh nep nhan
trung kien (savoury rice cake with ant eggs). $$
Nha Hang Vit Quay Hai Xom
Roast duck at its best in Lang Son City. They also serve pho vit (duck noodle soup), an
interesting take on Vietnam\u2019s national dish. $$
Cao Bang & Lang Son Specialities
MOUNTAIN MEAT AND CHINESE INFLUENCE
While the everyday cuisine in Cao Bang and Lang Son is simple, there are a
handful of standout dishes worth hunting out. Lap suon Cao Bang (Cao Bang
sausage) is a rich and meaty smoked sausage that you\u2019ll see hanging up in shops
and restaurants in Cao Bang City. Cao Bang is also famous for its take on banh
cuon (rolled wet rice paper with minced pork and mushrooms), which they
serve for breakfast with a hearty bowl of clear soup. Chinese cuisine has a
strong influence on the speciality dishes of Lang Son; the vitquay (roast duck)
here is the tastiest in the country. Coong Phu, a warm sweet soup with
gelatinous rice balls, peanuts and shaved coconut, can be found in street stalls
near Lang Son Market.
GETTING AROUND
Cao Bang City (six hours) and Lang Son City (four hours) are accessible by bus from
Hanoi. Book tickets through your Hanoi hotel or one of the many travel agents in the Old
Quarter. There are also trains to Lang Son, though the passenger service was unavailable
at the time of research. Getting between Ha Giang, Cao Bang and Lang Son is also
possible by public bus, and you can enquire at your accommodation or at central bus
stations. Cao Bang and Lang Son are walkable cities, but you\u2019ll need a private car or
motorbike to reach the falls.
BA BE NATIONAL PARK
The scenery in Ba Be National Park, designated in 1992, plunges from
limestone mountains down into lush valleys wrapped in dense evergreen forests
and speckled with waterfalls and caves. The area is commonly referred to as Ba
Be Lake, as this murky and atmospheric body of water dominates the heart of
the national park. The park is a rainforest area with many hundreds of named
plant species. Wildlife species here include dozens of mammals and fish,
hundreds of birds and butterflies, four kinds of turtles and the highly
endangered Vietnamese salamander. Bird species include the spectacular crested
serpent eagle and the oriental honey buzzard. Hunting is forbidden, but the
government permits fishing. The park is home to several villages, most
belonging to the Tay minority group, but there are also Dzao and Hmong
settlements higher up in the hills.
TOP TIP
Eating delicious, home-cooked meals is one of the highlights of Ba Be. Your accommodation
provider will expect you to eat most meals with them (breakfast is usually provided, but not
always) and it would be impolite to regularly go elsewhere. Lunches and dinners in homestays
can cost as much as your bed, and sometimes a little more.
Lake Life
BOAT TRIPS AND MOUNTAIN HIKING
Ba Be National Park offers all of northern Vietnam\u2019s quintessential natural
vistas \u2013 mountains, caves, lakes and waterfalls \u2013 and flagship activities \u2013
motorbiking, biking, kayaking, hiking, boat trips and village visits \u2013 in one
place. You can arrange most activities through your accommodation provider
(see below), but note that proceedings may be smoother in the bigger, more
expensive lodgings.
Rimmed by limestone peaks, Ba Be (meaning \u2018three pools\u2019) is in fact three
linked lakes, with a total length of 8km and a width of about 400m. Half-day
boat excursions usually visit the thundering Dau Dang Waterfall, isolated An
Ma Temple and the 300m-long Puong Cave (Dong Puong), full of stalactites
and stalagmites and home to thousands of bats (belonging to 18 species). Other
Ba Be Lake stops include the startling, circular, jungle-rimmed lagoon of Ao
Tien. Alternatively, or additionally, rent a kayak to explore the lake
independently.
Away from the water, hiking and walking excursions are also enjoyable, and
at times offer breathtaking views. Strolling around the quiet roads that encircle
the lake can be done solo, but if you want to trek into the hills and visit Dzao
and Hmong villages, seek a guide. One of Ba Be\u2019s most popular off-the-water
sights is the 800m-long Hua Ma Cave complex with a pathway leading down
into a soaring 50m-high cavern.
Ba Be lakes | QUANG NGUYEN VINH\/SHUTTERSTOCK \u00a9
BEST ACCOMMODATION IN BA BE
Homestays
There are various homestays, most of which are clustered in Pac Ngoi Village. Some are
bookable online, but it\u2019s also possible to turn up on the day. $
Mr Linh\u2019s Homestay
More of a lodge than a homestay, Mr Linh\u2019s occupies a quiet spot overlooking a narrow
corner of the lake. Bicycles, kayaks, boat tours and hiking guides available. $$
Hai Dang Lodge
On the road but with an elevated position, Hai Dang Lodge offers sweeping views across
the lake. Matches Mr Linh\u2019s in activity options. $$
GETTING AROUND
The larger accommodation providers offer a shuttle service from Hanoi. It\u2019s also possible
to get a bus from Hanoi to Bac Kan City, and then another from there to Ba Be National
Park, but the journey will take the better part of a day. Once there, you can hike and take
boat trips from your lodgings but will need motorised transport to reach Hua Ma Cave.
MU CANG CHAI
Mu Cang Chai District is best known for its cascade of rice terraces,
photographs of which adorn the lobbies of cheap guesthouses across Vietnam.
Indeed, images of the bulging green rice terraces of Mu Cang Chai are so
emblematic of Vietnam\u2019s northern mountains that they are sometimes clumsily
used by Hanoi travel agents to tout tours to Sapa, Mai Chau and other betterknown
destinations. And yet Mu Cang Chai still only sees a tiny trickle of
foreign visitors.
Domestic travellers, on the other hand, descend on Mu Cang Chai in droves
just before the harvest, which begins in September, when the terraces have
transformed into a gorgeous golden-yellow as the rice cycle reaches its final
stages. During the summer months the terraces radiate a vivacious green and in
wintertime they fill with water to resemble reflective pools. Whenever you visit,
the vistas are likely to be extraordinary.
TOP TIP
The beginning of harvest season (September) is an astonishing time to visit but the weather
can be wet and hotels can book out weeks, even months in advance. By mid-October harvest
season is coming to an end, but you can still find plenty of uncut golden terraces, the weather
is drier and the accommodation quieter.
BEST PLACES TO STAY IN (AND NEAR) MU CANG CHAI
Dong Suoi Hmong Homestay
Homestay owner Xuan has made charming roadside lodgings with panoramic views of the
riverbend and elevated rice terraces. Both private rooms and dorms available. $
Mu Cang Chai Ecolodge
Sitting atop a hill and encircled by rice paddies, Mu Cang Chai Ecolodge offers private,
good-value bungalows and delicious home-cooked food. Dorm beds are also available. $$
Le Champ
Until its sister hotel (Mu Cang Chai Resort) opens, this is the closest high-end hotel to Mu
Cang Chai in neighbouring Van Chan District with design bungalows, hot springs and a
spa. $$$
Bountiful Harvest
TAKE ON THE TERRACES
Elevated rice terraces are an extraordinary example of how land can be adapted
for cultivation. In some cases, entire hills have been cleared and carved to
construct level, farmable paddies, painting a pixilated picture. Viewpoints of
this cultivated topography are peppered throughout Mu Cang Chai, with Doi
Mam Xoi (Raspberry Hill) being the most famous and photographed. There\u2019s
actually a slightly quieter spot, Mong Ngua, much closer to Mu Cang Chai
Town. Both spots are stunning, but have attracted so many visitors in recent
years that the district now requires payment to enter and the farmers are
encouraged to hold off harvesting for as long as possible to elongate the golden
month.
For less commodified views, head further out of town to Lao Chai or Khao
Mang. While many of the villages surrounding Mu Cang Chai are Thai, the
valley here is farmed almost exclusively by the Hmong, evidenced by the
grounded dwellings and blue, black and purple skirts worn by women. If you\u2019re
not on a tour of Mu Cang Chai or you don\u2019t have your own transport, explore
the district through your accommodation provider, who can arrange multiday
guided tours and motorbike rental.
Terraced rice fields, Mu Cang Chai | NGOC VU\/SHUTTERSTOCK \u00a9
GETTING AROUND
Mu Cang Chai is served by direct buses (eight hours), including the sleeper variety, from
Hanoi. If coming from Mai Chau or Dien Bien Phu, take a bus to Son La (four hours) and
then from there another bus to Mu Cang Chai (four hours). If coming from Sapa or the
northeast, take a bus or train to Yen Bai, from where there are regular onward buses to Mu
Cang Chai (five hours).
DIEN BIEN PHU
Dien Bien Phu plays a starring role in Vietnam\u2019s modern history. It was in the
surrounding countryside, on 7 May 1954, that the French colonial forces were
defeated by the Viet Minh in a decisive battle that served as the nail in the
coffin of the Indochina empire. The town sits in the heart-shaped Muong Thanh
Valley, surrounded by heavily forested hills. The scenery along the way here is
stunning, with approach roads scything through thick forests and steep terrain.
Tay, Hmong and Si La people live in the surrounding mountains, but the city
and valley are mainly inhabited by ethnic Vietnamese. Previously just a minor
settlement, Dien Bien Phu was elevated to provincial capital in 2004. It\u2019s a
pleasant stop for fans of military history or those heading to northern Laos. It\u2019s
also northern Vietnam\u2019s only mountain destination that you can fly to from
Hanoi.
SIGHTS
1 Bunker of Colonel de Castries
2 D Nguyen Chi Thanh
3 Dien Bien Phu Cemetery
4 Dien Bien Phu Museum
5 French War Memorial
6 Victory Monument
ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS
7 A1 Hill
TOP TIP
Dien Bien Phu\u2019s accommodation scene is just fine; you\u2019ll find a handful of guesthouses in and
around \u0110 Nguyen Chi Thanh. For something with soul, reach out to Dien Bien Phu CBT on
Facebook. They can arrange friendly stays with a local Tay family in Muong Phang, 35km west
of the city.
The Old Bridge, Dien Bien Phu | VAN THANH CHUONG\/SHUTTERSTOCK \u00a9
TOP SIGHT
Dien Bien Phu
Dien Bien Phu is an essential visit for anyone interested in
Vietnam\u2019s tumultuous modern history \u2013 nowhere else in the country
are so many military history sights packed into one place. You\u2019ll
need two full days to get to grips with the history and visit all the
worthwhile sights.
Command bunker of Colonel de Castries | xita\/shutterstock \u00a9
The Battle of Dien Bien Phu
In early 1954 General Henri Navarre, commander of the French forces in
Indochina, sent 12 battalions to occupy the Muong Thanh Valley in an
attempt to prevent the Viet Minh from crossing into Laos and threatening
the former Lao capital of Luang Prabang. The French units, of whom 30%
were Vietnamese, were soon surrounded by Viet Minh forces, who were
equipped with artillery pieces and anti-aircraft guns painstakingly carried
by porters through jungles and across rivers. The guns were placed in
concealed, carefully camouflaged positions overlooking the French troops.
French Chief Artillery Commander Pirot assumed there was no way the
Viet Minh could get heavy artillery to the area, and when the guns opened
fire he took his own life. Weeks of intense artillery bombardments ensued.
Six battalions of French paratroopers were parachuted into Dien Bien Phu
as the situation worsened but this proved insufficient. The elaborate series
of French trenches and bunkers were overrun by the Viet Minh after the
French decided against the use of US conventional bombers and the
Pentagon\u2019s proposal to use tactical atomic bombs. All 13,000 French
soldiers were either killed or taken prisoner, and Viet Minh casualties have
been estimated at many times that. Viet Minh forces finally overran the
beleaguered French garrison after a 57-day siege. This shattered French
morale, and resulted in France abandoning Vietnam for good.
DON\u2019T MISS
Dien Bien Phu Museum
A1 Hill (or Eliane)
Bunker of Colonel de Castries
Victory Monument
Dien Bien Phu Cemetery
Dien Bien Phu Campaign Command Headquarters
Muong Phang Monument
Dien Bien Phu Museum
This well-laid-out museum, contained in a striking modern structure,
features an eclectic collection that commemorates the 1954 battle.
Alongside weaponry and guns, there\u2019s a bathtub that belonged to the
French commander Colonel de Castries, a bicycle capable of carrying
330kg of ordnance, and the testimony of Vietnamese who were there.
A1 Hill
This vantage point was crucial in the battle of Dien Bien Phu. There are
tanks and a monument to Viet Minh casualties on this former French
position, known to the French as Eliane and to the Vietnamese as A1 Hill.
The elaborate trenches at the heart of the French defences have also been
recreated. Little background information is given on-site.
Dien Bien Phu Cemetery
The immaculately maintained Dien Bien Phu Cemetery commemorates the
Vietnamese who died in the battle of Dien Bien Phu, with each gravestone
bearing the gold star of the Vietnamese flag and a clutch of incense sticks.
Bunker of Colonel de Castries
West of the Ron River, the dank command bunker of Colonel de Castries
has been recreated, though there\u2019s little to actually see. A discarded tank
and some mortar guns linger nearby. You might see Vietnamese tourists
mounting the bunker and waving the Vietnamese flag, re-enacting an
iconic photograph taken at the battle\u2019s conclusion.
French War Memorial
The unsigned French War Memorial, erected on the 30th anniversary of the
1954 battle, commemorates the 3000 French troops buried under the rice
paddies.
Victory Monument
The epic hilltop Victory Monument, commemorating the 1954 battles,
presides heroically over Dien Bien Phu\u2019s main roads. Road access leads
around the back of the hill, or you can climb the steps for fine views.
Dien Bien Phu Campaign Command Headquarters
The Battle of Dien Bien Phu was masterminded from these bunkers 40km
west of the city and accessible by taxi or motorbike. The buildings are
reconstructions, but they do give some sense of what conditions would
have been like during the battle. The nearby Tuong Dai Di Tich Muong
Phang (Muong Phang Monument) is the most elaborate of Dien Bien Phu\u2019s
many commemorative statues. The inscription is one of triumph, reading
\u2018Definitive battle, definitive victory\u2019.
TOP TIPS<\/p>\n\n\n\n
EXPLORING NHA TRANG WALKING TOUR
Begin by the 1 Cai Riverside. If you\u2019re here in the early morning you can watch fishing boats
return to the city to unload their holds of great tuna and pelagics caught far offshore. Head
south along \u00d0 Van Hoa to the huge concrete 2 Dam Market to browse the hundreds of
stalls; there\u2019s a lot of cheap, definitely dodgy designer clothes to wade through and an
amazing array of dried fish, squid and shrimp. Food stalls are in a separate building set to
one side. The market is busiest in the morning and winds down by mid-afternoon.
Head southwest along \u00d0 Hai Ba Trung towards the beach and the 3 Alexandre Yersin
Museum, one of the nation\u2019s foremost scientific institutions. From here you\u2019re steps away
from the 4 Khanh Hoa Museum with its displays on local history and archeological items.
Continue along the attractive promenade where locals enjoy dance classes and badminton
games in the morning before the tropical heat kicks in.
You\u2019ll pass the city\u2019s curious 5 tourist information building, said to be modelled on a
lotus flower, though it looks more like a stubby pink rocket. Just inland from here there\u2019s a
popular 6 night market on \u00d0 Nguyen Thi, firmly geared at the tourist trade, with T-shirts
and souvenirs for westerners and snacking stalls popular with Viets.
Continuing south there are more parks, shaded by coconut palms, until you reach the 7
Sailing Club, a local institution, with elegant seating and a pricey menu. Big beach parties
are held here on summer evenings with DJs and crowds of thousands.
A Medical Pioneer
MUSEUM WITH A MISSION
Alexandre Yersin Museum is one of those rewarding provincial museums with a
focus rather than displaying a potpourri of dusty ceramics and the like. It\u2019s
located in an elegant seafront mansion, the former home of the Swiss-French
scientist Dr Alexandre Yersin (1863\u20131943), who founded Nha Trang\u2019s Pasteur
Institute in 1895.
Yersin\u2019s accomplishments were many, including introducing rubber and
quinine-producing trees to Vietnam and discovering the rat-borne microbe that
causes bubonic plague. He\u2019s deeply respected in Vietnam, with streets named
after him, and was posthumously made an honorary citizen for his pioneering
scientific work fighting diseases. You can browse Yersin\u2019s library and view
displays including laboratory equipment (such as astronomical instruments) and
a fascinating 3D photo viewer. The building also houses the Pasteur Institute
which coordinates vaccination and hygiene programs for the country\u2019s southern
coastal region. Physicians at the clinic here offer medical advice to around 70
patients a day. There\u2019s information in French, Vietnamese and English, plus a
short film on Yersin\u2019s life.
WHERE TO STAY: HOTELS & HOSTELS IN NHA TRANG
Champa Island Resort
Situated on two islands in the Cai River with excellent facilities including a huge pool, gym and
spa. $$$
Happy Angel Hotel
In the heart of town and a short walk from the beach, with wide choice of rooms and helpful
staff. $$
Backpack Abode Hostel
Enjoys a convenient location close to the beach and there\u2019s a convivial vibe helped by free
breakfasts (and beer!). $
Mud Play
THERMAL EXPERIENCES
Locals swear that the only way to get really clean is to get deep down and dirty
in a natural mudbath, and there are several places around Nha Trang where you
can get stuck in (the mud). Try to avoid weekends, which can get very busy
indeed.
I Resort, 7km northwest of the city centre, is an upmarket thermal spa that\u2019s
the most attractive of the mud-fests around Nha Trang, with hot mineral
mudbaths, bathing pools and even nine mineral waterfalls. The rural setting is
gorgeous, with distant mountain views, and there\u2019s a decent restaurant, spa and
massage salon and gift shop. All kinds of mud and spa packages are available.
The original hot thermal mud centre, Thap Ba Hot Spring Center, remains good
value. Private rooms work out to be pricey so consider the communal mudbath;
there are also mineral-water swimming pools. Lots of other packages are
offered and online discounts available. It\u2019s 7km northwest of Nha Trang.
HON CHONG PROMONTORY
The narrow granite promontory of Hon Chong, 4km north of Central Nha Trang, offers fine
views of the mountainous coastline north of Nha Trang and nearby islands. There\u2019s a
modest observatory here too, but it\u2019s mainly geared to school visits (opening hours are
sporadic).
You\u2019ll also find a reconstructed Ruong house (wooden residence handmade in the
traditional style of the region) and a great cafe with sea views. Watch out for local kids
doing Acapulco-style swan dives from the coastal cliffs. Just north of the promontory is a
slim beach, but expect some rubbish.
Nha Trang Cathedral
FRENCH GOTHIC STYLE
Built between 1928 and 1933 in French Gothic style, complete with stainedglass
windows, Nha Trang Cathedral stands on a small hill overlooking the train
station. It\u2019s a surprisingly elegant building given that it was constructed of
simple cement blocks. Some particularly colourful Vietnamese touches include
the red neon outlining the crucifix, the pink backlighting on the tabernacle, and
the blue neon arch and white neon halo over the statue of St Mary.
GETTING AROUND
Central Nha Trang is best explored on foot, though be careful crossing the busy beach
road. Taxis are very reasonable in Nha Trang; a ride from the town centre to the Po Nagar
Cham Towers will cost around 30,000d. It\u2019s a flat city, so cycling is another excellent
option; bikes are widely available for hire.
Beyond Nha Trang
Take some time out and explore the Nha Trang bay, coastline, distant
Cham ruins and cultural centre.
Nha Trang\u2019s coastal location, offshore islands and tropical climate makes it a
good base for boat trips and water sports of many persuasions. Diving has
historically been a big draw, but reef management issues have seen access to
some top dive sites suspended. Boat trips on the bay are very popular, and
cruising the islands can be a memorable day out if you book the right trip.
South of town, along the superb Bai Dai beach, are surf spots and barefoot
cafes where you can escape the city. Further away, consider an outing to see the
Cham towers of Po Klong and My Hoa beach, the latter all but undeveloped
except for a few kitesurfing camps.
Surfing, Bai Dai beach | shevtsovy\/shutterstock \u00a9
TOP TIP
There\u2019s likely to be little in the way of diving, snorkelling or even sailing action during the height
of rainy season (October to January). If you really want to dive here it\u2019s best to plan around
these months.
BEST HOTELS BEYOND NHA TRANG
Mia Resort Nha Trang
On a secluded, private sandy beach 16km south of Nha Trang with a choice of spacious
villas either with ocean or garden views. $$$
Fusion Resort Nha Trang
Set on Bai Dai beach, this luxury complex\u2019s suites and villas all have sea views, and many
have private plunge pools. $$$
West Lake Hotel
Close to the northern end of Bai Dai beach, with affordable rooms that represent excellent
value. $
Ana Mandara Cam Ranh
The beachside location, contemporary decor and wonderful pool make it a fine choice.
$$$
Bai Dai Beach
SOUTH ALONG SURF BEACH (3PP)
South of Nha Trang, a spectacular coastal road leads to Cam Ranh Bay passing
the entire length of Bai Dai (Long Beach), a breathtaking stretch of sand. It\u2019s
22km to the northern end of the beach, 30 minutes by road.
Until recently the Vietnamese military controlled the entire area, restricting
access to all but the odd fishing boat. However, times have changed and now
the entire strip is being developed. Several giant resort hotels have already
opened and many others are under construction.
Some of the best surf breaks in Vietnam are on Bai Dai. Your best bet is to
head to the northern end of the coastline, where you\u2019ll find Bai Dai Surf Camp
& Chill, which rents boards and offers surf instruction, and Sandy Shores, a
bar and grill, plus a good choice of seafood restaurants. If conditions are calm,
this northern section of the beach is your best bet for swimming.
Coastal road near Nha Trang | nguyen quang ngoc tonkin\/shutterstock \u00a9
WHERE TO STAY: HOTELS IN DOC LET
Light Hotel
Around 400m inland from the beach, this hotel has clean, inviting rooms with efficient air-con
and friendly staff. $
Hoang Khang Hotel
Four-storey hotel with well-presented, good-value rooms. There\u2019s a restaurant and it\u2019s near the
beach. $
Serene Days Doclet Resort
New beachside hotel located towards the northern end of Doc Let beach with a delightful
infinity pool. $$$
Island Trips
OFFSHORE EXCURSIONS
Island-hopping trips are a huge draw in Nha Trang, with 71 islets offshore,
some surrounded by coral reefs.
Back in the day (well the 1990s), party-boat tours involved a ride out to sea
on a leaky fishing boat, copious joints and rice-wine shots in a \u2018floating bar\u2019 (a
tube in the ocean). Unsurprisingly, local party officials deemed the ganja and
drinking games a bit too counter-revolutionary for their tastes.
Today there\u2019s more of a choice \u2013 with everything from backpacker booze
cruises to family-geared outings. Frankly, most trips are extremely touristy,
involving whistle-stop visits to the run-down Tri Nguyen Aquarium, some
snorkelling on a degraded reef, and a bit of beach time (admission fee charged).
The booze cruises feature (very) organised entertainment with a cheesy DJ on
the deck (or a tacky boy band) and lots of drinking games. Expect 20 or 30
people packed on a small boat.
In recent years upmarket options have increased, with everything from
private charters to cruises on traditional junks now available. If you have the
funds, these are your best bet for a relaxing, enjoyable day out in the bay.
KITESURFING IN MY HOA
Around 100km south of Nha Trang by road, the beachside village of My Hoa is fast
becoming a kitesurfing hot spot. Between November and March you can expect sunny
skies and onshore trade winds of between 20 and 30 knots.
Three kite camps have opened with no doubt more to follow, though the scene is still
mellow and emerging. So, if you\u2019d rather chill under the stars on a relatively undeveloped
shoreline than base yourself in a large tourist resort like Mui Ne, head to My Hoa. There\u2019s
no public transport here; a taxi from Phan Rang town costs 275,000d and takes 40
minutes or so.
Diving the Bay
UNDERWATER ACTION
Nha Trang is Vietnam\u2019s most popular diving destination, though conditions are
not that rewarding for experienced divers, with visibility averaging 10m to 15m.
February to September is considered the best time to dive, while October to
December is the worst time of year.
There are around 25 dive sites in the area. Unfortunately the best location,
Hon Mun island, was closed to diving in June 2022 after reefs there were
found to be severely degraded. The decision upset local dive operators, who
pointed out they have a vested interest in protecting the marine environment.
Previous studies had found that heavy storms, climate change, industrial waste
and particularly illegal fishing and dredging were all factors leading to the
damage.
Other sites remain open with a variety of soft and hard corals, and a
reasonable number of small reef fish. You can expect to see clownfish,
pufferfish and trumpetfish, and perhaps cuttlefish and octopus.
A full-day outing including boat transport, two dives and lunch typically
costs between US$60 and US$90 with a professional dive school. Snorkellers
can usually tag along for US$20.
There are over a dozen dive operators in Nha Trang, including the odd dodgy
set-up not following responsible diving practices. The latter tend to charge
ridiculously cheap prices. Don\u2019t compromise on safety, and stick to reputable
operators.
WHERE TO STAY: HOTELS IN NINH VAN BAY
Six Senses Ninh Van Bay
Magical setting on a secluded cove and elegant traditionally-inspired villas, each with its own
swimming pool. $$$
L\u2019Alyana Villas Ninh Van Bay
The thatched villas here have private plunge pools, personal butlers, complimentary yoga,
kayaking and hiking. $$$
An Lam Retreat
This tropical escape, accessed by boat, tempts visitors with its back-to-nature ethos. Villas are
beautifully presented. $$$
DOC LET BEACH
Stretching for 18km, the chalk-white sands and shallow turquoise waters of Doc Let
ensure it ranks among Vietnam\u2019s best beaches. However, in the last few years developers
have moved in big time, and busloads of tourists are herded here on tours from Nha Trang.
This giant bay can be divided into three sections. The northern part is where most of the
tourism action is, with a cluster of beachfront hotels and cheaper guesthouses inland.
Looming over the central section is the giant Hyundai shipyard and port, an important
local employer but a real blight on the landscape.
The southern part has the best stretch of sand, but due to developers and day-trippers
(and jet skis) it\u2019s now far from tranquil.
Po Klong Cham Towers
HILLSIDE HINDU TEMPLES
South of Nha Trang (93km or 1\u00bd hours by car). the imposing Cham towers of
Po Klong date from the end of the 13th century. Built from brick as Hindu
temples, they stand on a platform at the top of Cho\u2019k Hala, an exposed granite
hill.
Over the entrance to the largest tower (the kalan, or sanctuary) is a beautiful
carving of a dancing Hindu god Shiva with six arms. Note the inscriptions in
the ancient Cham language on the doorposts. These tell of past restoration
efforts and offerings of sacrifices and slaves.
Inside the kalan\u2019s vestibule is a statue of the bull Nandin, vehicle of Shiva.
Nandin is also a symbol of the agricultural productivity of the countryside. To
ensure a good crop, farmers would place an offering of fresh greens, herbs and
areca nuts in front of Nandin\u2019s muzzle. Under the main tower is a mukha-linga
sitting under a wooden pyramid. Liquor is offered and incense burned here.
Inside the smaller tower opposite the entrance to the sanctuary you can get a
good look at some of the Cham\u2019s sophisticated building technology; the wooden
columns that support the lightweight roof are visible. The structure attached to
it was originally the main entrance to the complex.
Next to the temples is a large modern Cham Cultural Centre. There\u2019s some
superb photography of Cham people, village life and customs exhibited here, as
well as paintings, pottery, traditional dress and agricultural tools.
GETTING AROUND
Regular buses and trains connect Nha Trang with the Phan Rang area (the latter\u2019s train
station is called Thap Cham). To really explore the region, though, it\u2019s best to have your
own wheels. Scooters are available in Nha Trang from US$5 a day or a car with driver costs
from US$80 per day.
MUI NE
One of Vietnam\u2019s most relaxing beach destinations, Mui Ne is an attractive
10km string of beach resorts, which have fused into one long coastal strip.
These resorts are, for the most part, mercifully low-rise and set amid tropical
gardens by the sea. The original fishing village is still here, but tourists
outnumber locals these days. There are a handful of luxury hotels (and a
smattering of cheap guesthouses) but Mui Ne is mainly a midrange resort.
Kitesurfing is a huge draw \u2013 there are several excellent schools and worldclass
wind conditions between late October and April. One major problem the
area faces is the steady creep of coastal erosion, particularly around Km 12. Just
inland from the coast the terrain is desert dry, and touring Mui Ne\u2019s towering
sand dunes is thrilling experience. Until a few years ago Mui Ne was a prime
location for Russian tourists, but today\u2019s it\u2019s mainly West Europeans and
Vietnamese visitors filling hotel beds.
SIGHTS
1 Fairy Spring
2 Fishing Village Museum
3 Sand Dunes
ACTIVITIES, COURSES & TOURS
4 Manta Sail Training Centre
EATING
5 Choi Oi
6 Dong Vui Food Court
7 Po Shanu Cham Towers
8 Sailing Club Kite School
9 Sandals
TOP TIP
Most hotels and restaurants are spread out along a 10km stretch of coastal highway. East of
Km 12, many seaside hotels do not have a beach. For the best swimming head to the stretch
around Km 8.
CHAM RUINS
Around 6km west of Mui Ne, the Po Shanu Cham Towers occupy a hillside with sweeping
views of nearby Phan Thiet and a cemetery filled with candy-like tombstones. Dating from
the 9th century, this complex consists of the ruins of three towers dedicated to Shiva,
which were restored in 2019, using the original bricks where possible. There are
information panels detailing the towers\u2019 history and a small pagoda on site too.
Hit the Water
KITESURFING, WINDSURFING AND MORE (3PP)
For kitesurfers and windsurfers, the strongest gales blow from late October to
late April, when swells can stir things up big time. Consider investing in a short
kitesurfing lesson before opting for a multi-day course, as it\u2019s a tricky skill to
master. Bear in mind it is an extreme sport and most places won\u2019t offer a refund
for anyone who drops out. Mui Ne also has an excellent sailing school and
plenty of places rent out SUPs and kayaks. There\u2019s also some surf between
August to December. Good operators include Sailing Club Kite School and
Manta Sail Training Centre.
Sand dunes, Mui Ne | det-anan\/shutterstock \u00a9
WHERE TO EAT IN MUI NE
Dong Vui Food Court
Open-air dining with excellent grazing options (from Indian to German) and live music some
weekends. $
Sandals
A romantic setting for a memorable meal, with a mellow ambience and Vietnamese and
Western dishes. $$
Choi Oi
Modern Viet restaurant run by welcoming staff who will guide you through the tempting menu;
offers cooking classes too. $
The Sahara of Vietnam
EXPLORING THE SANDS
Mui Ne is famous for its enormous red and white sand dunes. The doi hong
(\u2018red dunes\u2019) are conveniently located north of the main strip, but the doi cat
trang (\u2018white dunes\u2019), 24km northeast, are the more impressive \u2013 the nearconstant
oceanic winds sculpt the pale-yellow sands into wonderful
Saharaesque formations.
On regular organised dune trips there\u2019s a slim chance of experiencing the
silence of the desert. Prepare yourself for the hard sell as children press you to
hire a plastic sledge to ride the dunes. Unless you\u2019re very light, it can be tricky
to travel for more than a few metres this way. Quad bikes and dune buggies can
also be a bother. Expect some litter, too; periodically there\u2019s a clean-up, but the
tide of plastic keeps returning.
If you\u2019re booking a sand dune tour agree on an itinerary, preferably in
writing. We hear some complaints, particularly about \u2018sunset tours\u2019 that are cut
short with the sun still high in the sky.
FAIRY SPRING
For easy access to the Mui Ne dunes, consider visiting the Suoi Tien, a \u2018fairy stream\u2019 which
flows through a valley in the red dunes and past some interesting sand and rock
formations. It\u2019s a pleasant walk wading from the sea up the creek to its source, a spring.
You can do the trek barefoot, but if you\u2019re heading out into the big sand dunes after, you\u2019ll
need proper footwear. Expect some rubbish and souvenir stands along the way.
A Fishy Business
EXPLAINING FISH SAUCE PRODUCTION
It accompanies virtually every meal in Vietnam, a nation which consumes an
estimated 250 million litres of nuoc mam (fish sauce) a year. When added to
dishes during cooking it adds a unique complexity and umami flavour. When
fish sauce is mixed with garlic, lime juice, chilli and sugar it becomes nuoc
cham, an essential dipping sauce that\u2019s presented on dining tables in a little
bowl.
Phan Thiet is one of the principal fish sauce production centres in Vietnam (a
ranking only challenged by the island of Phu Quoc). Factories and home-brew
operations are scattered across the city and region, and its distinctive aroma is
ever present.
Making fish sauce is a fairly simple operation: there are only two ingredients.
Rinsed fresh fish (usually anchovies) and salt are layered into earthenware pots
or wooden barrels lined with sea salt then placed in the hot southern Vietnamese
sun for anything between six months and a year to ferment.
There are myriad degrees of fish sauce quality. Most prized is the richly
pungent, cognac-coloured first extraction, or nuoc mam nhi (perhaps
comparable to cold-pressed extra virgin olive oil). Subsequent extractions lack
intensity and are more watery. One quality test measures the fish sauce\u2019s protein
content. If you drop a grain or two of rice into a bowl of fish sauce and it sinks,
the fish protein level is low and it\u2019ll be a secondary extraction.
Variations include nuoc mam made from freshwater fish; cooked fish sauce;
fish sauce in the form of paste; and occasionally sauces made from shrimp, crab
or squid.
Between Mui Ne and Phan Thiet, the excellent Fishing Village Museum
explains all about this most Vietnamese of staples, its roots and production in
the region. There are 14 interactive exhibits depicting a 300-year history, local
maritime culture and the importance of fishing to the economy. Tastings are
offered and there are bottles for sale.
In the evenings the museum hosts \u2018Fishermen\u2019 shows, theatrical
performances that illustrate fishing traditions and culture in Phan Thiet with
contemporary dance.
WHERE TO STAY IN MUI NE
Sailing Club
Stylish, spacious bungalows in wonderful tropical gardens, set right on Mui Ne\u2019s best stretch of
sandy beach. $$$
Minhon Hotel
Run by a very friendly young team, this fine choice has rooms set around a pool and is solar
powered. $
Cargo Remote
Hillside eco-retreat with a stunning natural pool and gorgeous accommodation made from
shipping containers. $$
Beyond Mui Ne
Mui Ne is a beach holiday location. If you want to experience a more
local vibe head to Phan Thiet and the coastline beyond.
The arid, scenic region around Mui Ne is a pleasure to explore. You should
definitely drop by the bustling port city of Phan Thiet, traditionally known for
its nuoc mam (fish sauce), producing millions of litres of the stuff per annum.
The riverside fishing harbour is always chock-a-block with brightly painted
boats and there are a couple of sights and a lot of seafood restaurants to
investigate.
Beyond Phan Thiet, there\u2019s a good road trip south along the highly scenic
coastal road to Long Hai, passing the Ke Ga lighthouse. Ta Cu Mountain is
another good diversion.
Phan Thiet | neale cousland\/shutterstock \u00a9
TOP TIP
For a great day trip from Mui Ne get some wheels and head south along the coastal road to
Phan Thiet (and beyond). The weather is perennially oven hot in these parts so pack suncream
and take plenty of water.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
PHAN THIET ON FOOT
Phan Thiet is one of southern Vietnam\u2019s main ports, with fishing fleet that numbers hundreds
and an annual catch in excess of 50,000 tons. Begin an exploration on the Ca Ty riverbank at
the 1 Ho Chi Minh Museum, dedicated to the founder of the modern Vietnamese nation. Ho
spent a year in Phan Thiet in 1910 at the neighbouring 2 Duc Thanh School, which is open
to visitors, you can see its austere classrooms and well-maintained gardens.
Head inland along \u00d0 Tran Phu to the 3 Phan Thiet Central Market where there are
glistening displays of seafood and fish to admire, much of it taken from oceanic waters far
offshore. There are food stalls here for snacks and meals, fruit merchants (try the famous
locally produced dragon fruit) and florists. Heading back to the river down \u00d0 Nguyen Hue
and you\u2019ll see a historic 4 water tower on the opposite bank; loosely reminiscent of a
pagoda, this 1934 monument is a symbol of the city.
Continuing along the west bank of the Ca Ty, cross 5 Tran Hung Dao bridge and there\u2019s a
great perspective over the river, its waters filled with hundreds of fishing boats. Phan Thiet\u2019s
nuoc mam (fish sauce) is famed throughout the nation for its rich flavour. Riverside 6 \u00d0
Pham Van Dong is thick with seafood restaurants, the perfect setting for a meal. Back in the
1970s and 1980s thousands of migrants left Vietnam from here on small vessels, dreaming of
a new start in Singapore, the US or Europe.
At the southern end of \u00d0 Pham Van Dong you can gaze out past the mouth of the river to
the sea. Walk northeast along \u00d0 Le Loi and it\u2019s a short distance to Phan Thiet\u2019s impressive 7
beach, with a sweeping arc of fine pale sand.
DRAGON FRUIT
Arrive at night in the Mui Ne district and you\u2019ll be greeted with the eerie sight of fields filled
with lanterns, each light illuminating a bizarre-looking tropical bush. These lights maintain
heat around dragon fruit (also known as pitaya), which are native to Latin America but
thrive in the arid conditions and sandy soil along this stretch of Vietnam\u2019s coastline.
The dragon fruit is lauded as a \u2018superfood\u2019 by some nutritionists for its high level of
vitamin C content, digestive properties and natural antioxidants. In Mui Ne you\u2019ll find
dragon-fruit-flavoured cocktails and mocktails.
Dragon fruit plants only bloom at night and the flower (of white petals around a golden
centre) only lasts for one day. Vietnam is the world\u2019s leading exporter of the fruit, with
revenues topping US$1 billion annually.
Coastal Road Tripping
SAND DUNES AND FISHING VILLAGES
A beautiful road parallels the coast between Phan Thiet and La Gi, passing
some memorable scenery and the impressive Ke Ga lighthouse. There are
pockets of tourism development, but for now most of the coastline is a
beguiling mix of giant sand dunes, fishing villages, wide ocean views and some
near-deserted beaches. Traffic is light.
Immediately south of Phan Thiet, the first section of the road is beautiful,
with a casuarina-lined shoreline and the ocean to the east, while the inland
scenery is dominated by rust-red sand dunes. After 30km or so you reach the
majestic Ke Ga lighthouse, which clings to a tiny island offshore, dating from
the French era. Constructed in 1899, it sits on a rocky islet some 300m from the
shore, towering almost 40m above the ocean. It\u2019s just possible to swim (or even
wade) across if the tide is very low, but most visitors hire a boat operator (from
100,000d return) to get across. You\u2019re not allowed to ascend the lighthouse.
South of Ke Ga, the coastal road pushes southwest, passing fields bursting
with dragon fruit (the main crop here), reaching La Gi, 22km down the road, an
isolated market town.
Ke Ga lighthouse | dzung vu\/shutterstock \u00a9
WHERE TO STAY AROUND PHAN THIET
Pho Bien Homestay
In the heart of Phan Thiet with very cheap, simple rooms; there\u2019s also a tiny pool for cooling off.
$
Chunlii Homestay
Right opposite Ke Ga lighthouse, with clean, affordable rooms and stunning sea vistas. Limited
English is spoken. $
Chon\u2019s Dock
On the outskirts of Phan Thiet opposite a small fishing harbour, offering clean rooms and a
welcoming vibe. $
WHALE WORSHIP
Vietnam\u2019s whale-worship cult is thought to have originated in early Cham times. Fishing
communities in southern Vietnam revere whales as near-divine beings who offer
protection against storms, and there are whale temples dotted along the coast. Phan
Thiet\u2019s Van Thuy Tu Temple is particularly fascinating to visit as it contains the skeleton
of a 19m whale. The temple is said to date back to 1762 and also contains other cultural
relics.
The Holy Mountain
A VERY BIG BUDDHA
The highlight at Ta Cu Mountain is the huge white reclining Buddha, Tuong
Phat Nam. At 49m long, it\u2019s the largest in Vietnam. The pagoda was
constructed in 1861, but the Buddha was only added in 1972. It has become an
important pilgrimage centre.
The mountain is just off Hwy 1, 31km southwest of Phan Thiet, or 48km
from Mui Ne. From the highway it\u2019s a beautiful two-hour trek, or a 10-minute
cable-car ride and a short but steep hike. You\u2019ll pass three large standing
Buddha statues on your way to the summit and see monkeys in the forest
around the site. The cable car is relatively modern and Austrian-made.
GETTING AROUND
Local buses connect Phan Thiet with Mui Ne. There\u2019s limited public transport elsewhere so
a motorbike or car is the way to go. Factor on from US$90 per day for a car and driver.
VUNG TAU
Occupying a hilly thumb-shaped peninsula, with the ocean on two sides and a
coastal lagoon to the north, the city of Vung Tau enjoys a spectacular location.
It\u2019s an easy day trip from HCMC, and the sea air, beaches and vistas make it a
very poplar weekend destination for the Saigonese.
The city has a few attractions, including museums, imposing colonial-era
buildings and war monuments, and its layout, with broad boulevards and coastal
roads is attractive. If the weather gods are smiling, some residents surf and
kitesurf off the city\u2019s beaches. Few travellers pass through but it makes a good
place to start (or end) an intriguing coastal road trip to Mui Ne.
Many Western visitors are ex-servicemen from Australia (and New Zealand)
as there was an important ANZAC base here in the 1960s and 1970s.
HIGHLIGHTS
1 Robert Taylor Museum of Worldwide Arms
SIGHTS
2 Statue of Christ the King
3 Lighthouse
4 Provincial Museum
5 White Villa
EATING
6 Quach\u2019s Seafood Restaurant
7 Seafood Market
TOP TIP
If you\u2019re looking for a seafood feast, there are some fine options on the coastline northwest of
the centre of town. Dining out costs more here than in many other Vietnamese cities. To cut
costs, head for the seafood market.
NAME CALLING
There\u2019s been an established expat community in Vung Tau for many years and some local
landmarks have English nicknames. Most foreigners prefer to stay on Front Beach (Bai
Truoc) where many restaurants and bars are found, while the majority of Vietnamese
visitors head for Back Beach (Bai Sau). The latter is better for swimming and
watersports.
Museums & More
CONTEXT AND CULTURE
Vung Tau has three museums worth investigating. The Robert Taylor Museum
of Worldwide Arms (pictured) is one of the best private collections of military
arms, uniforms and paraphernalia in Asia. One section is dedicated to the
conflict in Vietnam, another to the French colonial period, and there are
Chinese, European and even Zulu exhibits.
Robert Taylor, who has spent more than 50 years amassing and curating the
collection, is often at hand to provide explanations. The attention to detail is
superb and there are excellent descriptions in English and Vietnamese.
The excellent Provincial Museum opened in 2021 in a striking new fourstorey
structure on the seafront. All exhibits are well presented, covering the
region\u2019s history, environment, minority communities and cultural traditions.
Extensive coverage is given to the military struggle against the French and
Americans, including the prisons of Con Dao and lots of original weaponry.
Cultural context is informative, with displays on the province\u2019s religious
traditions, art and architecture, and cuisine. Next door, the city\u2019s third museum
Bach Dinh (the White Villa) is the former weekend retreat of French governor
Paul Doumer (later a French president). This gorgeous, grand colonial-era
residence has extensive gardens bursting with frangipani but the interior is
oddly empty (besides the odd piece of furniture and some Ming pottery
retrieved from shipwrecks off the coast).
dong nhat huy\/shutterstock \u00a9
WHERE TO STAY IN VUNG TAU
Sakura Hotel
Inviting rooms and apartments and switched-on owners who rent scooters and bikes. Superb
value. $
Shin & Sam
Rooms are well kept, there\u2019s a great breakfast and the rooftop pool is a heat-busting bonus. $
Vung Tau Riva Hotel
Modern mini-hotel with a prime location on Back Beach. Many rooms have terrific sea views
from their balconies. $$
BEST SEAFOOD
Ganh Hao
One of the best seafood restaurants in southern Vietnam, with tables by the sea; try the
crab with pepper sauce. $$$
Seafood Market
Here you select your fish, crab or shellfish and have it cooked in front of you. Located on
Back Beach. $
Thanh Phat 2
No-frills seafront place where shrimp, sea bass, crab and clams are expertly cooked. It\u2019s
4km north of central Vung Tau. $$
Quach\u2019s Seafood Restaurant
Bustling place off Front Beach serving surf-fresh seafood including superb crab in
tamarind sauce and tiger prawn dishes. $$$
Visions of Rio
STAIRWAY TO HEAVEN
Vung Tau\u2019s southern headland juts into the ocean and boasts far-reaching vistas
over wetlands to the west and across the city. Crowning a hilltop here, with his
arms outstretched to embrace the South China Sea (East Sea), is the statue of
Christ the King, a 32m giant Jesus and one of the biggest in the world \u2013 taller
than his illustrious Brazilian cousin. It\u2019s possible to ascend the arms for
panoramic views. Some 800-odd stairs wind their way up the mountain, a
Vietnamese version of stairway to heaven, but it is possible to take a short cut
by motorbike up a bumpy mountain road if you can find a local who knows the
way. Note you cannot enter the actual statue wearing sleeveless shirts or shorts.
To the north of the statue is a historic lighthouse, built by the French and
dating back to 1910. This lighthouse also boasts spectacular vistas of Vung Tau.
Although Jesus and the lighthouse look temptingly close, it is not possible to
walk or drive directly between them; there is a military base in the hills. To
access the lighthouse head to Cau Da Pier on \u00d0 Ha Long, take a sharp right on
the alley north of the Hai Au Hotel, then roll on up the hill.
Statue of Christ the King | dong nhat huy\/shutterstock \u00a9
GETTING AROUND
There are regular buses from HCMC\u2019s Mien Tay and Mien Dong bus stations but the best
way to access Vung Tau is by boat. Fast ferries operated by Greenlines sail to\/from the
riverside in central HCMC four to six times daily, though services can be cancelled if seas
are rough; it\u2019s a two-hour trip.
Vung Tau is pretty spread out so consider hiring a taxi to get between the Front and
Back beaches or to more distant sights. Some hotels have bicycles available guests too.
Beyond Vung Tau
Vung Tau makes a starting point for the highly scenic coastal drive to Ho
Tram and a good base for investigating wartime sites.
A stunning coastline stretches northeast of Vung Tau, eventually reaching Phan
Thiet some 175km away. Until a few years ago this route consisted of a
seemingly endless stretch of empty sandy beaches and the odd fishing village
but resort hotels are now emerging (geared to Saigonese holidaymakers) and
some campsites have been established (catering mainly to Saigonese students).
The one modern monument you\u2019ll pass en route is the mega casino project at
Ho Tram.
Elsewhere there are a number of war monuments and battle sites from the
American War, which are best visited on tours lead from Vung Tau as they are
widely dispersed and tricky to reach under your own steam.
Drying fish, Long Hai | quang nguyen vinh\/shutterstock \u00a9
TOP TIP
Tommy\u2019s in Vung Tau operates good tours of the key sites geared for returning vets. Otherwise,
taxi drivers charge around US$75 for a full-day out.
FRENCH FIELD GUNS
These six massive cannons, all with support trenches, demonstrate how strategically
important Cap St Jacques (the colonial name for Vung Tau) was to the French authorities,
as it guarded access to Saigon. To reach the cannons, take \u00d0 Tran Phu beyond Mulberry
Beach and look for Hem 444 in the fishing village, about 6km from Vung Tau. Turn right up
a narrow, rough track manageable by motorbike or on foot.
Lonely Beaches
MEGACASINO AND NEAR-EMPTY SANDS (2PP)
Immediately east of Vung Tau, Long Hai is a bustling seaside resort with sandy
beaches that draw local holidaymakers and a busy fishing port. Bao Dai, the last
emperor of Vietnam, built a private residence here (now the Fleur de Lys Resort
& Spa) but otherwise there are no real sights.
Pushing on northeast up the coastline, the route passes fine beaches and a
long sandbar. Developers have targeted the next stretch of coastline, where a
tasteful enclave called the Hamptons has good dining options and a pier. Next
up is the Ho Tram casino, a vast monument to excess and chance (Vietnamese
are not permitted to gamble here, but they\u2019ll happily take foreigners\u2019 cash).
Casino aside, Ho Tram is pretty low key \u2013 until very recently it consisted of
nothing more than a tiny fishing village, scruffy open-air market and a fine
though rubbish-strewn beach. The seafood shacks here are some of the best in
southern Vietnam, offering fresh scallops, blue-swimmer crab and jumbo red
prawns.
Beyond here the next part of the coast is almost untouched, and with golden
sands, rolling inland dunes and clear waters; there are many tempting places to
stop for a dip. New campsites are opening on this stretch, mostly geared to
students from Saigon, with tents set on sand dunes and in coastal woods for
rent. These places tend to be deserted in the week, but fill up on weekends and
public holidays.
Ho Tram, Vung Tau | quang nguyen vinh\/shutterstock \u00a9
WHERE TO STAY IN HO TRAM
Grand Ho Tram
The twin hotels at this casino complex have superb facilities with five pools and a stunning
beach location. $$$
Sanctuary
Gorgeous contemporary villas, each with private pool, just off a broad sandy beach. $$$
Beach House
Simple rooms and bungalows in a tranquil location on a sandy spit of land between a riverbank
and the beach. $
BEST RESTAURANTS AROUND HO TRAM
My Le 2
Just inland from Ho Tram beach, My Le 2 serves super-fresh seafood at moderate rates in
very simple surrounds. $$
Hampton\u2019s Pier
A tremendous choice of dining options, from Viet classics to gourmet ice cream. $$
Lob Ho Tram Restaurant
Upmarket seafood restaurant with a superb range of dishes including delicious chilli crab.
$$$
Ven Ven Hotel Restaurant
An atmospheric setting for well-seasoned and presented Vietnamese classics, including
fish cooked in a claypot. $$
Anzac Sites
TUNNELS, BATTLES AND CAVES
The Long Tan Memorial Cross commemorates a particularly fierce battle that
took place on 18 August 1966 between Australian troops and Viet Cong (VC)
fighters. Originally erected by Australian survivors of the battle, the current
cross is a replica installed by the Vietnamese in 2002. It\u2019s located about 18km
from Ba Ria town or 55km from Vung Tau, near the town of Nui Dat. Permits
to visit the Long Tan Cross are no longer necessary, and trips can be combined
with the seldom-visited Long Phuoc tunnels, an underground network that is a
much smaller version of the more famous tunnels at Cu Chi.
At Minh Dam, 24km from Vung Tau, there are caves with historical
connections to the Franco\u2013Viet Minh and American Wars. Although the caves
are little more than spaces between the boulders covering the cliff face, VC
soldiers bunked here off and on between 1948 and 1975; you can still see bullet
holes in the rocks from the skirmishes that took place. Steps hewn into the rock
face lead up to the caves, with spectacular views over the coastal plains at the
top. Nearby there is a mountaintop temple with more great panoramic views
of the coastline.
GETTING AROUND
There\u2019s irregular public transport on this coastline; slow local buses trundle between Vung
Tau and Ba Ria. However, it\u2019s perfect terrain for exploring on two wheels; scooters are
available from hotels and guesthouses.
CENTRAL HIGHLANDS
ALPINE TOWNS AND SYLVAN HILLS
The Central Highlands and Cat Tien National Park blend wildlife,
waterfalls and villages with the laidback charm of the region\u2019s distinct
cities.
hien ohung thu\/shutterstock \u00a9
Few parts of Vietnam stir the imagination with the lure of adventure quite like
the Central Highlands. The ribbon-like Ho Chi Minh Hwy winds its way past
coffee plantations, pine-studded mountains, craggy waterfalls, enormous reedcovered
lakes and the commanding nha rong (communal houses) of traditional
ethnic minority villages. Protected jungles in remoter corners, including those
of Yok Don and the Cat Tien National Park (the latter is just south of the
Central Highlands) host singing gibbons, pygmy lorises, wild elephants and a
kaleidoscope of birds. The cities and towns in the Central Highlands offer a
diverse mix of temperatures and temperaments. The former French hill station
of Dalat (pictured) beguiles with its cool climate, heritage architecture, the
palaces of the last emperor of Vietnam and hip bars for after-dark thrills. Just
outside of this tropical alpine town, active travellers take to the mountains,
forests, waterfalls and rivers in cycling, hiking and abseiling adventures.
Buon Ma Thuot (BMT) and Kon Tum sit at lower altitudes and thus endure
hotter climates. BMT is Vietnam\u2019s undisputed coffee capital, evidenced not
only by the huge expanse of plantations, but alwalso a plucky museum and a
coalition of cool cafes.
Kon Tum has managed to preserve some unusual and impressive
ecclesiastical colonial heritage, while a handful of traditional minority villages
are within easy transport reach of the city centre.
Long Lan Pass, Lam Dong province | hien phung thu\/shutterstock \u00a9
THE MAIN AREAS
CAT TIEN NATIONAL PARK
Thick jungle and singing gibbons.
DALAT
Urban romance and alpine adventure.
BUON MA THUOT
Elephants, waterfalls, lakes and coffee.
KON TUM
Christian heritage and ethnic minority villages.
Find Your Way
Sandwiched between Cambodia and the Southcentral Coast, the
Central Highlands is one of Vietnam\u2019s only regions without a beach. The
Ho Chi Minh Hwy winds through this hilly, agricultural region, passing all
major cities (bar Dalat).
Plan Your Days
Experiences in the Central Highlands oscillate from leisurely pastimes to
thrilling adventures. The region\u2019s cities are very different from one
another, so make the most of it by selecting those that suit your
interests.
Lam Vien Square, Dalat | dong nhat huy\/shutterstock \u00a9
If You Only Visit One Place<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Plan Your Days
The ideal amount of time in Siem Reap is three to five days to see the
temples of Angkor, explore the lively town and see some other
attractions in the countryside.
Ta Prohm | tsushi\/shutterstockk \u00a9
Day 1<\/p>\n\n\n\n
A WALKING TOUR OF ANGKOR THOM
Angkor Thom is the top trekking spot thanks to its manageable size and rewarding temples.
Start at the spectacular 1 south gate, admiring the immense representation of the
Churning of the Ocean of Milk before ascending the wall of this ancient city and heading
west. Reaching the southwestern corner, admire 2 Prasat Chrung, one of four identical
temples marking the corners of the city.
Back on the gargantuan wall, continue to the 3 west gate, looking out for a view to the
immense Western Baray on your left. Descend at the west gate and wander east along the
path into the heart of Angkor Thom, but don\u2019t be diverted by the beauty of Bayon, as this is
best saved until last. If you are with a tour guide, you will have to travel this first and follow
the designated running order, but independent travellers can plot their own course. Veer
north into 4 Baphuon and wander to the back of this temple. Then pass the small temple of
5 Phimeanakas and the former royal palace compound, an area of towering trees, tumbling
walls and atmospheric foliage. Continue further north to petite but pretty 6 Preah Palilay,
overshadowed by an impressive cluster of kapok trees.
It\u2019s time to make for the mainstream with a walk through the 7 Terrace of the Leper
King and along the front of the royal viewing gallery, the 8 Terrace of the Elephants. If
there\u2019s time, you may want to zigzag east to visit the laterite towers of Prasat Suor Prat and
the atmospheric Buddhist temple of Preah Pithu. Otherwise, continue to the top billing of 9
Bayon: weird yet wonderful, this is one of the most enigmatic of the temples at Angkor.
PROMINENT ANGKOR TEMPLES
Angkor Wat might be the iconic image of Cambodia, but there are many more
unique temples that would be the headline attraction if they were located in the
neighbouring countries of the region. The ancient Khmers constructed such an
embarrassment of riches that there are so many big hitters around Angkor.
Ta Prohm or the \u2018Tomb Raider temple\u2019 is the place to see nature reclaiming
the stones in its tentacle-like grip, while delicate Banteay Srei is home to the
finest carvings found at Angkor. The temples of Roluos are a step back in time
to the earlier Angkorian capital of Hariharalaya and the holy mountain of
Phnom Kulen is where the first capital of Mahendraparvata is hiding in the
jungle. Further afield lies another River of a Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean
and the epic jungle ruin of Beng Mealea, being slowly suffocated by vines and
creepers.
SIGHTS
1 Bakong
2 Banteay Srei
3 Beng Mealea
4 Kbal Spean
5 Lolei
6 Phnom Kulen
7 Preah Khan
8 Preah Ko
9 Ta Prohm
TOP TIP
It is possible to combine some of the temples to get the best out of a day. Ta Prohm and the
\u2018small circuit\u2019 temples can easily be combined with Preah Khan and the \u2018big circuit\u2019 temples. If
venturing to remote Koh Ker, then include Beng Mealea en route.
FLOATING VILLAGES AROUND SIEM REAP
Chong Kneas
The floating village of Chong Kneas is a bit of a circus, but for all its flaws, it is very scenic
and can be combined with sunset from the hilltop temple of Phnom Krom.
Kompong Pluk
The village of Kompong Pluk is a friendly, otherworldly place where houses are built on
soaring stilts. Nearby is a flooded forest, inundated when the lake rises to take the
Mekong\u2019s overflow.
Kompong Khleang
One of the largest communities on the Tonl\u00e9 Sap, Kompong Khleang is more of a town
than the other villages, and comes complete with several ornate pagodas.
Me Chrey
One of the more recently \u2018discovered\u2019 floating villages, Me Chrey is one of the smaller
communities, but sees far fewer tourists than busy Chong Kneas.
The Jungle Temple of Ta Prohm
TOMB RAIDER MEETS INDIANA JONES
The so-called \u2018Tomb Raider Temple\u2019, Ta Prohm is cloaked in dappled shadow,
its crumbling towers and walls locked in the slow muscular embrace of vast
root systems. Undoubtedly the most atmospheric ruin at Angkor, Ta Prohm
should be high on the hit list of every visitor. Its appeal lies in the fact that,
unlike the other monuments of Angkor, it has been swallowed by the jungle,
and looks very much the way most of the monuments of Angkor appeared when
European explorers first stumbled upon them. Built from 1186 and originally
known as Rajavihara (Monastery of the King), Ta Prohm was a Buddhist temple
dedicated to the mother of Jayavarman VII. The temple is at its most impressive
early in the day.
Preah Khan | joshua davenport\/shutterstock \u00a9
WHERE TO EAT INTERNATIONAL FOOD IN SIEM REAP
Cul-de-Sac
This elegant French restaurant serves choice cuts and Gallic favourites in the leafy garden of a
restored wooden house. $$
Elia Greek Kitchen
This little taverna near Psar Chaa looks like it comes straight out of the Med, and the food
tastes pretty authentic too. $
Il Forno
Aficionados of fine Italian cuisine will love this place serving fresh antipasti, pizzas and homecooked
Italian dishes. $$
The Fusion Temple of Preah Khan
TEMPLE OF THE SACRED SWORD
The temple of Preah Khan is one of the largest complexes at Angkor, a maze
of vaulted corridors, fine carvings and lichen-clad stonework. Like sister temple
Ta Prohm, it is a place of towered enclosures and shoulder-hugging corridors.
Preah Khan was built by Jayavarman VII and probably served as his temporary
residence while Angkor Thom was being built. The central sanctuary of the
temple was dedicated in 1191. A genuine fusion temple, the eastern entrance is
dedicated to Mahayana Buddhism with equal-sized doors, and the other cardinal
directions dedicated to Shiva, Vishnu and Brahma with successively smaller
doors, emphasising the unequal nature of Hinduism.
The Early Temples of Roluos
THE ANCIENT CAPITAL OF HARIHARALAYA
The monuments of Roluos which served as Indravarman I\u2019s capital,
Hariharalaya, are among the earliest large, permanent temples built by the
Khmers and mark the dawn of Khmer classical art. Before the construction of
Bakong temple, generally only lighter (and less durable) construction materials
such as brick were employed. As well as the imposing pyramid temple of
Bakong, the Roluos group also includes the brick temple of Preah Ko and Lolei,
originally an island temple. Allow three hours or so to explore the three temples
of Roluos and nearby handicraft projects. Plan a half-day visit to the temples of
Roluos together with the stilted village of Kompong Pluk on the Tonl\u00e9 Sap
Lake.
WHY I LOVE PHNOM KULEN
Nick Ray, Lonely Planet writer
@lpnickray
I first visited Phnom Kulen in 1998, soon after it had been liberated from the Khmer Rouge.
Visitors had to trek up the mountain to the River of a Thousand Lingas, taking about three
hours. I took film director Jean-Jacques Annaud on a scout to the guardian animals of Sra
Damrei on Phnom Kulen in 2001, zipping between \u2018Danger!! Mines!!\u2019 signs on a motorbike.
I was fortunate to know many of the lead archaeologists on the LIDAR mission that
revealed the lost city of Mahendraparvata in 2012 and they have been generous in sharing
the secrets of the sacred mountain with me in the past decade. There is a magic about this
mountain that is hard to put into words.
Beguiling Banteay Srei
MORE THAN A TEMPLE
Considered by many to be the jewel in the crown of Angkorian art, Banteay Srei
is cut from stone of a pinkish hue and includes some of the finest stone carving
anywhere on earth. Begun in 967 CE, it is one of the smallest sites at Angkor,
but what it lacks in size it makes up for in stature. The art gallery of Angkor,
this Hindu temple dedicated to Shiva is wonderfully well preserved, and many
of its carvings are three-dimensional. Banteay Srei is more than a temple and
new destinations and experiences, including homestays, village walks, ox-cart
rides, fruit farms and handicraft workshops, are under development to
encourage visitors to stay longer and explore further.
FAMILY FUN AROUND SIEM REAP & THE TEMPLES OF ANGKOR
Angkor Zipline
This family-friendly experience (angkorzipline.com) includes 10 zip lines, 21 treetop platforms,
and an abseil descent.
ICF Wake Park
Set on a lake, ICF Wake Park (icf-wakepark.com) offers wakeboarding, water-skiing or
kneeboarding and play parks.
Quad Biking
There are several quad biking (ATV) companies offering sunset rides through the countryside
and longer adventures.
Daytrips beyond Banteay Srei
MAKE THE MOST OF A LONG JOURNEY
Banteay Srei temple is best combined with other far flung temple sites to make
the most of the longer 32km journey out here. Combine this petite pink temple
with a day trip to the sacred mountain of Phnom Kulen or trek to the River of a
Thousand Lingas at Kbal Spean.
WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES AROUND ANGKOR
Kulen Elephant Forest
Providing a retirement home for the former working elephants of Angkor, this is a peaceful
place to walk with the herd. Tours cost US$80 per person, including the one-hour transfer
each way and lunch.
Angkor Wildlife & Aquarium
The Angkor Wildlife & Aquarium is designed to showcase the best of Cambodia\u2019s invisible
freshwater giants that lurk in the Mekong, including the giant catfish and the giant
stingray. Entry is US$18\/10 per adult\/child and it is located 30km southeast of Siem
Reap.
Angkor Centre for the Conservation of Biodiversity (ACCB)
Conveniently located near Kbal Spean is ACCB, which takes care of about 45 species,
including pileated gibbon and silvered langur. Daily tours are available at 9am and 1pm
(except Sunday). Minimum donation of US$3 per person.
The Sacred Mountain of Phnom Kulen
BIRTHPLACE OF THE KHMER EMPIRE
Considered by Khmers to be the most sacred mountain in Cambodia, Phnom
Kulen is a popular place of pilgrimage on weekends and during festivals. It
played a significant role in the history of the Khmer empire, as it was from here
in 802 CE that Jayavarman II proclaimed himself a devaraja (god-king), giving
birth to the Cambodian kingdom. Attractions include a giant reclining Buddha,
hundreds of lingas carved in the riverbed, an impressive waterfall and some
remote temples. It is about two hours from Siem Reap.
Waterfall, Phnom Kulen | dmitry finkel\/shutterstock \u00a9
RETAIL THERAPY IN SIEM REAP
Satcha
Taking off where Artisans Angkor left off, this beautiful handicrafts incubation centre supports
independent artisans.
AHA Fair Trade Village
For locally produced souvenirs, drop by the stalls at this handicraft market, which sells a range
of traditional items.
SATU Concept Store
This impressive store showcases a curated selection of the best of Cambodia\u2019s homegrown
products.
The Carvings of Kbal Spean
RIVER OF A THOUSAND LINGAS
A spectacularly carved riverbed, Kbal Spean is set deep in the jungle to the
northeast of Angkor. More commonly referred to in English as the \u2018River of a
Thousand Lingas\u2019, the name actually means \u2018bridgehead\u2019, a reference to the
natural rock bridge here. Lingas (phallic symbols) have been elaborately carved
into the riverbed, and images of Hindu deities are dotted about the area. It was
\u2018discovered\u2019 in 1969, when ethnologist Jean Boulbet was shown the area by a
hermit. It is about one and a half hours from Siem Reap and involves a hike of
around two hours.
THE FORGOTTEN TEMPLE OF CHAU SREI VIBOL
Petite hilltop temple Chau Srei Vibol is actually part of a larger complex that spanned the
entire hill. It\u2019s under-visited compared with other temples, making it an atmospheric
option for sunset. The central sanctuary is in ruins but is nicely complemented by an
early-20th-century wat nearby. Surrounding the base of the hill are laterite walls outlining
the dimensions of what was once a significant temple.
To get here turn east off the Bakong\u2013Anlong Veng highway about 8km north of NH6, or
5km south of Phnom Bok \u2013 there\u2019s a small, easy-to-miss sign that marks the turn. Locals
are friendly and helpful should you find yourself lost.
Slumbering Giant of Beng Mealea
AN AUTHENTIC JUNGLE RUIN
A spectacular sight to behold, Beng Mealea, located about 68km northeast of
Siem Reap, is one of the most mysterious temples at Angkor, as nature has well
and truly run riot. Exploring this Titanic of temples, built to the same floor plan
as Angkor Wat, is the ultimate Indiana Jones experience. Built in the 12th
century under Suryavarman II, Beng Mealea is enclosed by a massive moat
measuring 1.2km by 900m.
The Usurper Capital of Koh Ker
A RIVAL CAPITAL TO ANGKOR
Abandoned to the forests of the north, Koh Ker, a usurper capital of the
Angkorian empire from 928 to 944 CE, is one of the most remote temple
complexes around Angkor. Most visitors start at Prasat Krahom, where
impressive stone carvings grace lintels, doorposts and slender window columns.
The principal monument is Mayan-looking Prasat Thom, a a 55m-wide, 40mhigh
sandstone-faced pyramid whose seven tiers offer spectacular views across
the forest. Approaching Koh Ker from the south, there is a circular route that
takes in all the major temples in this former royal capital, including the
spectacular Prasat Bram in the southeast, Prasat Krahom and Prasat Thom in the
north and the lingas of Prasat Leung in the northeast, winding its way around
the rahal (baray or reservoir).
CHURNING OF THE OCEAN OF MILK
Beng Mealea has one of the smallest depictions of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, but
there are some monumental depictions of this Hindu epic around Angkor, including at
Angkor Thom, Preah Khan and Angkor Wat.
WHERE TO SLEEP AROUND KOH KER
Mom Morokod Koh Ker Guesthouse
This quiet guesthouse has 11 clean, spacious rooms with bathrooms. $
Koh Ker Temple Gardens Hotel
This boutique retreat has individual air-con bungalows set around a swimming pool. $$
Koh Ker Jungle Lodge
This striking old wooden house in Koh Ker has two private bedrooms and can host groups. $
TOOLKIT
The chapters in this section cover the most important topics you\u2019ll
need to know about in Vietnam. They\u2019re full of nuts-and-bolts
information and valuable insights to help you understand and
navigate Vietnam and get the most out of your trip.
Kerbside bicycle repair | THE ROAD PROVIDES\/SHUTTERSTOCK \u00a9
Arriving
Getting Around
Money
Accommodation
Family Travel
Health & Safe Travel
Food, Drink & Nightlife
Responsible Travel
LGBTiQ+ Travel
Accessible Travel
Language
Nuts & Bolts
Arriving
Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi are the two primary points of entry. Tan
Son Nhat International Airport is 8km from the city centre; Noi Bai
International Airport is 35km from Hanoi\u2019s Old Quarter. Airport taxi
scams are rampant; consider using Vietnam VIP Arrival
(vietnamviparrival.com) to whisk you through immigration and get
you a safe ride to your hotel. Vinasun and Mai Linh are reputable taxi
companies.
odua images\/shutterstock \u00a9
Visas
Visas are available online (evisa.xuatnhapcanh.gov.vn). Print the approval, and have
the required documents at arrival. Vietnam Visa Center (vietnamvisacenter.org) is a
reliable visa agency. Entry rules change often, check ahead.
SIM Cards
Viettel, Vinaphone and Mobifone are the three major network brands in Vietnam. Find
a SIM card dealer after going through customs or pre-purchase one from Klook
(klook.com) for a quick and easy experience.
Wi-Fi
Free wi-fi is available at both airports but is often slow and unreliable. For a better
connection, make a purchase at an eatery, and you\u2019ll get a receipt with a temporary wifi
password.
Border Crossings
Vietnam shares land borders with Cambodia, China and Laos, and there are over a
dozen official crossings. Foreigners are usually only allowed to cross between 7am and
5pm.
Public transport from the airport
Fuse\/getty images \u00a9
FREE VISAS
In an effort to promote tourism and the local economy, travellers
entering Vietnam from certain countries may qualify for visa
exemptions. Citizens from several Southeast Asian countries, like
Singapore, Thailand and Indonesia do not require a visa for stays of
less than 30 days. Those from the UK, France, Germany, Spain,
Italy and other select European countries can stay less than 15
days without a visa. Russians, Japanese and South Koreans also
get a 15-day visa exemption.
Getting Around
The best way to get around Vietnam is by aeroplane, train and
sleeper bus. Within cities, use a ride-hailing app to get a motorbike
or car driver to chauffeur you.
TRAVEL COSTS
Motorbike rental
From US$6\/day
Train Ticket Danang to Hue
from US$3
Petrol
Approx US$1\/l
Bicycle rental
US$3\/day
Grab
The \u2018Uber of Vietnam\u2019, Grab, lets you book motorbike and car
drivers. The service charges by the kilometre and minute, with a
minimum fee. Like Uber, peak time surcharges apply. Other ridehail
apps include Gojek and Be.
Driver\u2019s Licence
To legally drive in Vietnam, whether motorbike or car, you need to
have an International Driving Permit, which can only be obtained in
your home country. You can legally drive motorbikes up to 50cc
and electric bikes without a licence.
CONQUERING THE ROADS
Traffic in Vietnam might seem chaotic, but there\u2019s a method to the
madness. First off, the bigger the vehicle, the more respect it
deserves. If you\u2019re on a motorbike and they\u2019re in a car, they have
the right of way. The locals don\u2019t use their mirrors, so feel free to
honk your horn liberally to indicate your presence. And if you\u2019re lost
about what to do at a roundabout, wait for a group of drivers and
use them as protection as you move forward.
TIP
If your plans coincide with a national holiday, make sure to book your plane, train or
bus tickets well in advance because they\u2019re likely to sell out.
Bus
Public buses run throughout Vietnam, even to the smaller cities
and villages, but private sleeper buses are the better choice.
They\u2019re much more comfortable and they\u2019re not expensive. Choose
from a vast variety of companies and routes.
Train
The train runs mainly along the coast, taking you to cities from
HCMC all the way to Hai Phong and Lao Cai. Overnight rides are
very chilly as the air conditioning is on full blast, so make sure to
have some warm layers at the ready.
Plane
Vietnam Airlines, Bamboo Airways and Vietjet are the three major
airlines in Vietnam. Most cities have an airport, but the smaller
ones usually only have direct flights to Hanoi and HCMC. Vietjet is
the cheapest option, but notorious for delays and cancellations.
DRIVING ESSENTIALS
Drive on the right
Defer to larger vehicles.
0
Blood alcohol limit is 0g\/Litre.
Money
CURRENCY: DONG (D)
Money Exchange
US dollars can be exchanged at airports, banks and hotels, but the
best place to convert your money is at gold shops. There are no
fees and the rate is often better than what is offered elsewhere.
Gold shops are often in red and gold colours and can be found near
markets.
Card payments
Visa and MasterCard are widely accepted, especially in hotels,
shopping malls and smart restaurants. Smaller guesthouses, street
food vendors and most businesses in the countryside probably
won\u2019t have the technology to accept card payments, so make sure
you have cash with you.
Tipping
Some restaurants and hotels may collect a service charge, which
you will see on your bill. Otherwise, tipping is not expected but
welcomed.
HOW MUCH FOR A\u2026
Mobile data
from US$6
Beer
US$0.80
Massage
US$12
Tailor-made clothes
from US$13
HOW TO\u2026 Not Get Ripped Off
Get the cost upfront. Even the wet napkins waiting on the table and
the peanuts they plop in front of you might have a price. Use a ridehailing
app like Grab to avoid getting scammed by taxis. And watch
out for copycat tour companies with similar names as reputable
ones. Case in point: Knock-offs of the official railway site sell tickets
for much more than they\u2019re worth.
WHY SO CHEAP?
Get the cost upfront. Even the wet napkins waiting on the table and
the peanuts they plop in front of you might have a price. Use a ridehailing
app like Grab to avoid getting scammed by taxis. And watch
out for copycat tour companies with similar names as reputable
ones. Case in point: Knock-offs of the official railway site sell tickets
for much more than they\u2019re worth.
facing page: bbbirdz\/shutterstock \u00a9
LOCAL TIP
The notes for 500,000d (US$20) and 20,000d (US$0.80) are both printed on blue
paper and very easy to mix up. Check and make sure you\u2019re paying with the right bill.
Accommodation
Dream in Design
Famed architect and interior designer Bill Bensley is the talented
man behind several magnificent properties in Vietnam. Such as
Capella Hanoi with opulent interiors inspired by the nearby opera
house, the secluded Yen Tu MGallery which brings a 12th-century
monastery back to life, and JW Marriott Phu Quoc, an abandoned
university turned hotel. Each has its own story to tell, hidden in
every thoughtful detail of its design.
Bungalow Beauty Sleep
Bungalows are typically simple, single-storey buildings with a
sloping roof and a terrace. In Vietnam, bungalow accommodations
can range from basic to luxurious. At Trang An Hamlet Bungalow in
Ninh Binh, get a bamboo bungalow with a thatched roof in an idyllic
setting pretty cheaply. On the other side of the spectrum, Topas
Ecolodge in Sapa offers lavish chalet-style stone bungalows with a
private balcony for a pretty penny.
Stay Like a Local
Not only is a homestay easy on the pocket, it\u2019s also a front-row
lesson on history, culture and hidden gems. Your host is the expert,
and they are often more than happy to share their knowledge. The
family will likely invite you to eat with them, so you get to
experience what the locals dine on day to day. And if your stay
coincides with a holiday, expect to get invited to the festivities.
HOW MUCH FOR A NIGHT IN\u2026
a bungalow
US$15
a hostel dorm
US$4-15
a homestay
US$15-20
Glamp Out
Glamping gets you close to nature without compromising on modern comforts: a plush
bed, quality linens, designer furniture and a bathroom with a shower. CampArt by<\/p>\n\n\n\n
cute bar. CoCo Beachcamp, on the other hand, is set on the shores of Lagi featuring
bohemian-style tents equipped with air-conditioners.
seaonweb\/shutterstock \u00a9
Cheap Sleeps
If you\u2019re a backpacker on a budget, there are no shortages of
hostels. Some meet basic needs while others have a distinct style.
Hay Hostel in Hanoi offers all the essentials. Large lockers, a
personal fan and a curtain for privacy. Meander Hostel in HCMC
offers something a little more special. More poshtel than hostel, it
boasts a minimalist design that\u2019s functional and playful.
doctor_k\/shutterstock \u00a9
GIVE BACK
When opting for a locally owned business, you\u2019re contributing to
the local economy and uplifting the community as a whole.
Many areas in Vietnam solely depend on tourism for their income,
so staying in rustic bungalows and cosy homestays contributes
extensively to their livelihood. Beyond that, you might want to
share what you learned from your stay \u2013 the history, the culture,
the food and the handicrafts \u2013 with others, garnering interest,
facilitating the destination to develop, and helping the locals
become more prosperous.
Family Travel
With its rich culture and history, Vietnam is chock full of legends and
stories that will captivate you and your kids, and there\u2019s no shortage
of family-friendly activities either. From kayaking in Ha Long Bay and
trekking in the jungle to snorkeling in Phu Quoc and riding the
longest cable car in the world.
Tours
Consider taking a small group tour. It\u2019s a great way to see the sites
and learn about Vietnam\u2019s history and culture. All with little effort
and hassle in organising transport, accommodation and meals.
Great tour companies in Vietnam include Explore!, G Adventures
and Grasshopper Adventures. Also, if the kids complain about any
of it, you can just throw your hands up and say, \u2018We have no choice.
It\u2019s part of the tour.\u2019
Facilities
Very few restaurants and other public facilities have nappychanging
facilities. Don\u2019t rely on restaurants having highchairs.
Some do, but rarely. Seatbelts aren\u2019t used at all, so they\u2019re often
tucked away into the cushion. Rural places will most likely have
squat toilets and bidets instead of toilet paper.
Getting Around
If you plan on driving motorbikes or riding bicycles with your kids on the back, bring
your own helmets from home. Legit ones with good safety ratings are hard to come by
in Vietnam.
Eating Out
Vietnamese cuisine is fresh and light, and it\u2019s not spicy like Thai food, so it\u2019s easy on
kids\u2019 tastebuds. Thanks to the French influence, you can easily find bread and dairy
products.
KID-FRIENDLY PICKS
Hoi An
Splash around at An Bang beach, explore My Son Sanctuary ruins and release paper
lanterns into the Thu Bon River.
Hue
Cruise along the Perfume River, explore what\u2019s left of the Imperial City and taste royal
delicacies.
Halong Bay
Take an overnight cruise, kayak between karsts and cycle in the national park.
Hanoi
Go on a cycle tour of the Old Quarter, walk around Hoan Kiem Lake and watch a water
puppet show. yesteryear vehicles.
r.m. nunes\/shutterstock \u00a9
IT TAKES A VILLAGE
Vietnamese people love kids from foreign countries, and they don\u2019t
try to hide it. Be prepared for women to swoop your child out of
your arms and fuss over them while you eat. When the bill is
settled, she\u2019ll slide your baby right back in your arms. Not such a
bad thing if you want to enjoy your pho without having to deal with
a small child. While they do this because they think foreign babies
are so cute, it\u2019s also because they want to help you out. The locals
believe it takes a village to raise a child, and it\u2019s part of their culture
to assist whenever they can.
Health & Safe Travel
TYPHOON SEASON
Every year, roughly between October and December, central
Vietnam gets hit with powerful tropical storms coming in from
the East Sea. Strong winds, flooding and power outages may
occur. In cases where the storm is predicted to cause heavy
damage, the government will issue a stay-at-home order.
Typhoon Aftermath
When strong storms pass, Hoi An is prone to flooding. While that
might seem like a nuisance, you can take advantage of the unique
situation and what it has to offer. Wade in the waterlogged streets
and watch smart locals traverse town in canoes. Or, roll up your
sleeves and lend a hand in clearing debris from the streets and
unclogging waterways.
Heat Exhaustion
In the hot months (March to May in the south and May to July in
the north) temperatures can soar up to over 40\u00b0C. To avoid heat
stress, stay out of the midday sun, dress appropriately and drink
plenty of fluids. If you experience weakness, headache, dizziness or
nausea, get out of the sun and drink water.
alex from the rock\/shutterstock \u00a9
SOLO TRAVEL
Ride-hailing apps are the safest form of transport for female solo travellers out at
night. Make sure to get in the right vehicle.
FOREST FIRE SAFETY
Blue Low risk
Green Average risk
Yellow High risk
Orange Dangerous
Red Vary dangerous
Scams
Popular taxi scams include drivers going long circuitous routes to
run the meter, go-fast meters and fake taxis at the airport. Other
scams include eateries that do not display prices and surprise you
with a large bill, and smiling vendors that agree to have their
picture taken and later ask for a hefty fee. To avoid scams, always
ask for the cost upfront.
DRIVE-BY THEFT
More common in bigger cities, perpetrators drive up next to their victim and snatch a
phone, bag or other belonging before quickly driving off. This can happen when you\u2019re
walking and when you\u2019re on the back of a motorbike. To be safe, don\u2019t use your phone
out in the open, and don\u2019t carry a big handbag.
Food, Drink & Nightlife
When to Eat
An sang (breakfast, 6am to 9am) offers the most variety with noodle soups, baguette
sandwiches, sticky rice, congee and more.
An trua (lunch, 11am to 2pm) is rice and side dishes. Com binh dan eateries will have
all sides on display. Simply point at the ones you want.
An toi (dinner, 5pm to 9pm) is a group affair known as nhau. Dishes served often go
well with beer.
Where to Eat
Street food Roadside stalls with small plastic tables and chairs
that serve very limited menus of their specialties.
Lau DIY hotpot restaurants. Select the package you want from the
menu, then use the gas cooker on the table to boil the broth before
adding raw meat and vegetables.
Nhau Eateries where the focus is more on drinking, and the food is
just an accompaniment.
left: koosen\/shutterstock \u00a9
MENU DECODER
Banh savoury cake, crepe, dumpling or roll
Banh trang rice paper
Bat small bowl portion
Bo beef
Bun round noodle
Ca fish
Cay spicy
Chai bottle
Chay vegetarian
Com rice or rice plate
Da ice
Dia plate
Ga chicken
Giai khat beverages
Goi salad
Hai san seafood
Hap steamed
Heo pork
Lau hotpot
Luoc boiled
Ly cup
Mien glass or vermicelli noodle
Mon phu side dish
Nong hot
Nuoc cham dipping sauce
HOW TO\u2026 Differentiate Between Regional Cuisines
Northern, central and southern Vietnam all have distinct cuisines.
North Vietnam borrows from its neighbour China. Flavours here are
light and balanced, showcasing the natural taste of ingredients.
Spices and fresh herbs are abundant in central Vietnam, so expect
a punch of flavour and complexity in its food. Peanuts are also
plentiful, chopped and sprinkled on dishes, and made into a
dipping or drizzling sauce. Southern cuisine reflects international
influence with the use of coconut milk, similar to Thai and
Cambodian food. People in the south are also big on sweetness,
with sugar being the key ingredient to dishes like ca kho to (claypot
fish). Due to its hotter weather, this region lends to cooler foods,
like goi cuon (summer rolls), and relies heavily on nuoc mam (fish
sauce).
HOW MUCH FOR A\u2026
Banh Mi Sandwich
US$0.80
Iced Coffee
US$1
Pho
US$1.40
Street Food Meal
US$1
Lau
US$8
Local Beer
US$0.80
Pizza
US$6
HOW TO\u2026 Drink Alcohol
Drinking alcohol in Vietnam is very much an activity to be shared
with friends; the more the merrier. The beverage of choice is beer,
brought room temperature to the table by the case with a bucket of
ice and glasses. Simply add ice to your cup and pour the beer in.
It\u2019s customary for your friends to fill your glass and for them to fill
yours.
If you\u2019re out with locals, be prepared for plenty of toasts. \u2018Chuc
suc khoe\u2019 means \u2018to your health\u2019. A more popular toast is \u2018mot, hai,
ba, gio\u2019 which means \u2018one, two, three, in\u2019. This is most often
followed by \u2018tram phan tram\u2019, which literally translates to \u2018100%\u2019
meaning \u2018chug it all\u2019. Food is often served along with the beer
swilling.
Tiger, Heineken, Carlsberg and San Miguel are all brewed and
bottled in Vietnam. Local beer, like 333, Hanoi Beer and Huda are
cheaper. Bia hoi (draft beer) is only up to 4% alcohol and extremely
inexpensive. Bia tuoi (fresh beer) is a close relation and more
commonly served in the south.
You might also come across ruou can (rice-distilled liquor), an
alcoholic drink made from regular or glutinous rice and selected
herbs and fruit. A snake, gecko or scorpion might be thrown in as
well. Traditionally, the ingredients are mixed together, heated, then
buried in the ground for about a month to ferment.
old man stocker\/shutterstock \u00a9
Son Tinh
Son Tinh makes award-winning craft ruou can in many different flavours. \u2018Vietnam in a
glass\u2019 is available nationwide and makes for the perfect souvenir.
TABLE MANNERS
Once you arrive, wait for your host to show you where to sit at the dining table. Where
people sit depends on their importance to the family, stature and age. As a sign of
respect, the oldest person is the one who is seated first and also the first to eat.
Meals are often served family-style with different dishes placed at the centre of the
table. Food from the serving plates is picked up with chopsticks or a spoon and eaten
in small, individual rice bowls. The host might pick up food and place it in your bowl,
urging you to eat. It\u2019s quite alright to bring your bowl to your face, sip from it, and
shovel the last bits of food into your mouth using your chopsticks.
During the meal, pass things to other people using both hands. Never stick your
chopsticks vertically in the middle of a bowl because it resembles incense on the altar,
a sign of death. Do not use your chopsticks to point at someone or something.
You must not pick up the food from the serving plate and place it directly in your
mouth. Instead, put the food in your bowl first, before consuming it.
Eat everything in your bowl to show your satisfaction with the meal. Once you\u2019re
done, place your chopsticks on top of your bowl.
It\u2019s impolite to leave the table when others are still eating. Chat with them or help
them serve dessert while you wait for others to finish their meal.
Responsible Travel
Climate Change & Travel
It\u2019s impossible to ignore the impact we have when travelling, and
the importance of making changes where we can. Lonely Planet
urges all travellers to engage with their travel carbon footprint.
There are many carbon calculators online that allow travellers to
estimate the carbon emissions generated by their journey; try
resurgence.org\/resources\/carbon-calculator.html. Many airlines
and booking sites offer travellers the option of off setting the
impact of greenhouse gas emissions by contributing to climatefriendly
initiatives around the world. We continue to off set the
carbon footprint of all Lonely Planet staff travel, while recognising
this is a mitigation more than a solution.
Cruising
Explore Ha Long Bay with Bhaya Cruises (bhayacrusies.com), the
bay\u2019s first sustainable cruise line. It\u2019s made great efforts to operate
responsibly, protect the endangered white-headed langur, and
clean up the bay.
Trekking
Go trekking with Sapa Sisters (sapasisters.com), a social
enterprise run by Hmong ethnic women. Sleep at a homestay
overnight where you can experience typical Hmong hospitality and
delicious, home-cooked meals.
Caving
Go spelunking with Oxalis Adventure Tours (oxalisadventure.com)
in Phong Nha. The company largely employs local villagers, uses
compost toilets at campsites, conducts regular impact
assessments, and everything that is brought in is also taken out.
vanatchanan 222842452\/shutterstock \u00a9
Souvenirs
Collective Memory (collectivememory.vn) in Hanoi\u2019s Old Quarter
features an array of arts and fair-trade products from artisans,
villages and crafts people around the country, hand-selected for
their quality and unique Vietnamese essence.
Purchase fragrant soap bars and palm oil-free beauty products at Le Mai
(lemaivietnam.com.vn), made with plant extracts and packaged with recycled
materials.
Stay at Topas Ecolodge (topasecolodge.com), a luxurious, socially responsible retreat
in the mountains of Sapa that employs local people from villages nearby.
Elephant Rescue
Yok Don National Park (yokdonnationalpark.vn) in Dak Lak, along
with international charity Animals Asia, has teamed up to create
the country\u2019s first ethical elephant tour. Watch formerly captive
elephants forage, eat and sleep as they wish.
iNdependent birds\/shutterstock \u00a9
Dining
Enjoy European and Vietnamese fare at Mai Sen Bistro
(facebook.com\/maisenbistro\/) in HCMC. The restaurant is run by
trainees of An Re Mai Sen, a programme for hill tribes, victims of
Agent Orange, and others in need.
Organic Farming
Take a hands-on tour to learn how coffee is traditionally produced
at K\u2019ho Coffee Farm (khocoffee.com) just outside Da Lat. The
enterprise supports 50 ethnic minority families and uses farming
methods that limit soil erosion and deforestation.fattened and\/or
pumped with hormones or antibiotics.
Grab a coffee and a pastry at Simple Coffee (simplecoffee.vn), served by people with
intellectual and development disabilities in a vocational training programme.
Volunteer while you stay at budget-friendly Maison Chance (maison-chance.org). All
profits go towards orphanages and programmes for people with disability.
2050
Currently ranking fourth globally with the highest rate of plastic waste, the Vietnamese
government has issued a long-term strategy on environmental protection to achieve
carbon neutrality by 2050.
RESOURCES
vietnam.travel\/sustainability
A list of responsible travel options in Vietnam.
worldpackers.com
Exchange programmes with volunteering opportunities.
vietnamresponsibletourism.com
A social enterprise that offers tours and volunteering.
LGBTIQ+ Travellers
Vietnam is hospitable and welcoming towards LGBTIQ+ travellers,
even though the society at large remains conservative towards
homosexuality. In the recent past, the country has made positive
strides in recognising the queer community. The ban on same-sex
marriages was lifted in January 2015, and VietPride is a grand affair
in HCMC and Hanoi, with smaller versions celebrated around the
country.
The Big Shindigs
VietPride (facebook.com\/vietpride.vn) takes place over several
days annually in HCMC, Hanoi and several other cities and
provinces. The event in Hanoi is the largest and includes a colourful
parade, film festival, engaging talks, informational exhibitions and
raucous parties. VietPride for both HCMC and Hanoi often takes
place in September. Full Disclosure Entertainment
(facebook.com\/fulldisclosurevn) throws monthly extravaganzas at
various venues in HCMC featuring drag shows, live music and a DJ
late into the night..
Alexander Spatari\/Getty Images \u00a9
GAY FRIENDLY BARS
Find a wealth of queer enterprises in HCMC and Hanoi, the country\u2019s two biggest
cities. In the south, check out Thi Bar for laidback vibes and live music, or party with
Les Come Out, the city\u2019s first queer women and trans-inclusive party series. In Hanoi,
grab a beer at Golden Cock Bar, one of the longest-running gay venues, or sip a
cocktail at Savage, a posh, gay-owned lounge.
ALL THINGS DRAG
The drag queens of GenderFunk host regular events at The Observatory and other
venues in HCMC. Expect fierce runway battles and sassy bingo games. Sai Gon Tan
Thoi also puts on weekly drag shows at Rubik Zoo.
Volunteering and Safe Networks
iSEE (isee.org.vn) is a local group that advocates for the rights of
minority people in Vietnamese society, including the LGBTIQ+
community. One of the projects spearheaded by Save the Children
(vietnam.savethechildren.net) empowers deprived and
marginalised young people who don\u2019t conform to society\u2019s
sexuality norms.
Tourism
ICS Center (ics.org.vn) is the most prominent LGBTIQ+
organisation in Vietnam and the people behind VietPride. HE
Travel (hetravel.com), self-proclaimed \u2018King of Gay Travel\u2019, does a
southeast Asia tour that covers Hanoi, Ha Long Bay and the
Mekong River delta, before ending at Angkor Wat in Cambodia.
Out Adventures provides a short guide on gay travel in Vietnam
(outadventures.com\/gay-travel\/destinations\/vietnam\/).
Older Mindsets
While the locals in general are relaxed and tolerant towards LGBTIQ+ tourists,
traditional family values run deep and homosexuality remains a contentious topic.
Older generations and people in rural areas tend to be less open-minded than their
younger and metropolitan counterparts.
Accessible Travel
Like other developing countries, Vietnam was not built with people
with disability in mind. However, that\u2019s all changing with a new law in
place that requires the construction and renovation of public
buildings with accessible facilities.
Ha Long Bay
ERA Cruises (eracruises.com) sails around Ha Long Bay and Lan
Ha Bay and features a lift so all floors are wheelchair friendly. For
day trips, book with Jade Sails (jadesails.com), which boasts
wheelchair accessibility.
Airport
Most Vietnamese airlines provide special assistance if you contact them at least 24
hours before your departure. Make sure to give them your wheelchair\u2019s measurements
and the severity of your disability.
Accommodation
Bathroom doorways in hotels can be very narrow. Contact the accommodation before
booking to ensure the width of your wheelchair can fit through the opening.
TRANSPORT
For travel within cities, ask your hotel to organise a 7-seat taxi. Or,
simply use Grab, a ride-hailing app, and select the 7-seat option.
Sleeper buses are the much better option, compared to trains, for
intercity travelling.
Nguyen Hue
HCMC is making efforts to cater to the visually impaired. For
example, the traffic lights at Nguyen Hue walking street have sound
signals to notify when you can safely cross.
Sidewalks
The pavements in Vietnam are not exclusive to pedestrians and are
often blocked by parked motorbikes and street food vendors. To
get around, you must go on the street, sometimes in chaotic traffic.
MAISON CHANCE
Maison Chance (maison-chance.org) operates two budget
guesthouses in HCMC and Dak Nong that are completely
wheelchair accessible. All profits go towards an orphanage and
vocational programmes for people with disability. Guests are
welcome to volunteer with the organisation during their stay.
RESOURCES
DMap (drdvietnam.org) is an app with a comprehensive list of accessible
infrastructures \u2013 restaurants, parks, shopping malls, entertainment centres, offices
and religious buildings \u2013 in Vietnam. The software is in both Vietnamese and English
and is available for iOS and Android devices.
Du Lich Tiep Can (dulichtiepcan.com) is a website that shows attractions,
transportation, restaurants, hotels and other businesses in Vietnam that are
wheelchair accessible.
Language
Vietnamese is the official language of Vietnam and spoken by about
85 million people worldwide. It belongs to the Mon-Khmer language
family and has Muong (a hill-tribe language) as its closest relative.
Basics
Hello. Xin ch\u00e0o. sin j\u00f2w.
Goodbye. T\u1ea1m bi\u1ec7t. da\u1ea1m bee\u00b7\u1ee5ht
Yes. V\u00e2ng. (N) vuhng.
D\u1ea1. (S) y\u1ea1.
No. Kh\u00f4ng. kawm.
Please. L\u00e0m \u01a1n. la\u00e0m ern.
Thank you C\u1ea3m \u01a1n. \u011fa\u1ea3m ern.
You\u2019re welcome. Kh\u00f4ng c\u00f3 chi.kawm \u011f\u00f3 jee.
Excuse me\/Sorry. Xin l\u1ed7i. sin l\u00f5y
How are you? C\u00f3 kh\u1ecfe kh\u00f4ng? \u011f\u00e1w kw\u1ea3 kawm
Fine, thank you. And you?
Kh\u1ecfe, c\u00e1m \u01a1n. kw\u1ea3 \u011fa\u1ea3m ern
C\u00f2n b\u1ea1n th\u00ec sao? kw\u1ea3 \u011f\u00f2n ba\u1ea1n te\u00e8 sow
What\u2019s your name? T\u00ean l\u00e0 g\u00ec? den la\u00e0 ze\u00e8
My name is \u2026 T\u00ean t\u00f4i l\u00e0 \u2026 den doy la\u00e0 \u2026
I (don\u2019t) understand. T\u00f4i (kh\u00f4ng) hi\u1ec3u. doy (kawm) he\u1ebb\u00b7oo.
Directions
Where is \u2026? \u2026 \u1edf \u0111\u00e2u ? \u2026 \u1ebbr \u0111oh.
What is the address? \u00d0i\u1ea1 ch\u1ec9 l\u00e0 g\u00ec? \u0111ee\u00b7\u1ee5h che\u1ebb la\u00e0 ze\u00e8.
Could you write it down, please? Xin vi\u1ebft ra gi\u00f9m t\u00f4i. sin vee\u00b7\u00faht
zaa z\u00f9m doy.
Can you show me (on the map)? Xin ch\u1ec9 gi\u00f9m (tr\u00ean b\u1ea3n d\u1ed3 n\u00e0y)?
sin je\u1ebb z\u00f9m (chen ba\u1ea3n d\u00e0w n\u00e0y)?
Go straight ahead. Th\u1eb3ng t\u1edbi tr\u01b0\u1edbc. t\u1ee7hng der\u00b7e\u00e9 chuhr\u00b7\u00e9rk.
in front of. \u0111\u1eb1ng tr\u01b0\u1edbc. \u0111\u00f9ng chuhr\u00b7\u00e9rk.
near (to). g\u1ea7n. g\u00f9hn.
opposite. \u0111\u1ed1i di\u1ec7n. \u0111\u00f3y zee\u00b7\u1ee5hn.
Time
What time is it? M\u1ea5y gi\u1edd r\u1ed3i? m\u00e1y z\u00e8r z\u00f2y
It\u2019s (eight) o\u2019clock. B\u00e2y gi\u1edd l\u00e0 (t\u00e1m) gi\u1edd. bay z\u00e8r la\u00e0 (d\u00fahm) z\u00e8r
morning bu\u1ed5i s\u00e1ng bo\u1ecf\u00b7ee sa\u00e1ng
afternoon bu\u1ed5i chi\u1ec1u bo\u1ecf\u00b7ee jee\u00b7o\u00f2
evening bu\u1ed5i t\u1ed1i bo\u1ecf\u00b7ee d\u00f3y
yesterday h\u00f4m qua hawm \u011fwaa
today h\u00f4m nay hawm nay
tomorrow ng\u00e0y mai ng\u00e0y mai
Emergencies
Help! C\u1ee9u t\u00f4i! \u011fuhr\u00b7o\u00f3 doy
Leave me alone! Th\u00f4i! toy
I\u2019m lost. T\u00f4i b\u1ecb l\u1ea1c \u0111\u01b0\u1eddng. doi be\u1eb9 la\u1ea1k \u0111uhr\u00b7\u00e8rng
Please call the police. L\u00e0m \u01a1n g\u1ecdi c\u00f4ng an. la\u00e0m ern g\u1ecdy \u011fawm
aan
Please call a doctor. L\u00e0m \u01a1n g\u1ecdi b\u00e1c s\u0129. la\u00e0m ern g\u1ecdy ba\u00e1k se\u1ebd
I\u2019m sick. T\u00f4i b\u1ecb \u0111au. doy be\u1eb9 \u0111oh
It hurts here. Ch\u1ed7 b\u1ecb \u0111au \u1edf \u0111\u00e2y. j\u00e3w be\u1eb9 \u0111oh \u1ebbr \u0111ay
Eating & drinking
I\u2019d like \u2026 Xin cho t\u00f4i \u2026 sin jo doy \u2026
Not too spicy, please. Xin \u0111\u1eebng cho cay qu\u00e1. sin \u0111\u00f9rng jo \u011fay
gwa\u00e1
I\u2019m a vegetarian. T\u00f4i \u0103n chay. doy uhn jay
I\u2019m allergic to (peanuts). T\u00f4i b\u1ecb d\u1ecb \u1ee9ng doy be\u1eb9 ze\u1eb9 \u00fahrng v\u1edbi (h\u1ea1t
l\u1ea1c). ver\u00b7e\u00e9 (ha\u1ea1t la\u1ea1k)
Can I have a (beer), please?
Xin cho t\u00f4i (chai bia)? sin jo doy (jai bee\u00b7uh)
Cheers! Ch\u00fac s\u1ee9c kho\u1ebb! j\u00fap s\u00fahrk kw\u1ea3
NUMBERS
1
m\u1ed9t m\u1ea1wt
2
hai hai
3
ba baa
4
b\u1ed1n b\u00e1wn
5
n\u0103m nuhm
6
s\u00e1u s\u00f3h
7
b\u1ea3y b\u1ea3y
8
t\u00e1m d\u00fahm
9
ch\u00edn j\u00edn
10
m\u01b0\u1eddi uhr\u00b7e\u00e8<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Nuts & Bolts
Lunch Break
In Vietnam, lunch breaks are often from 11.30am to 1pm or noon to
1.30pm. Most banks, schools and other businesses besides
eateries will be closed during this time.
Internet Access
Except in mountains and remote islands, wi-fi is widely available in
Vietnam. Most businesses require a password, but this is easily
attained by asking staff.
Smoking
Smoking, including e-cigarettes, is allowed in public spaces and in
most restaurants and cafes. Airports have designated smoking
rooms after you pass security.
Toilets
Toilets are often rigged with a bidet. In rural areas, you will probably encounter squat
toilets.
Water
It is not safe to drink the water from the tap. If you must, boil it first for about one
minute.
GOOD TO KNOW
Time Zone
GMT+7
Country Code
84
Emergency number
113 (Police)
Population
98.18 million
Electricity 220V\/50Hz
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
Vietnam celebrates six public holidays. Some businesses and nonessential
services may be closed. If a holiday falls on the weekend,
workers are entitled to have the following day off (Monday) as well.
New Year\u2019s Day
1 January
Tet Holiday
January\/February
Hung Kings Commemoration Holiday
April
Reunification Day
30 April
International Labor Day
1 May
National Day
2 September
dong nhat huy\/shutterstock \u00a9
THE VIETNAM
STORYBOOK
Our writers delve deep into different aspects of life in Vietnam.
A History of Vietnam in 15 Places
Iain Stewart
Meet the Vietnamese
James Pham
Vietnamese 101: A Language of Melodic Beauty
James Pham
The Ancient Art of Reviving Craft
Diana Truong
Coffee Culture: Robust & Strong
Katie Lockhart
The Illegal Trade in Wildlife
Iain Stewart
From Bia Hoi to Craft Beer
Brett Atkinson
Motorbikes, A Doomed Affair?
Joshua Zukas
Vietnamese Calligrapher | dong nhat huy\/shutterstock \u00a9
A HISTORY OF VIETNAM IN
15 PLACES
The establishment of the modern state of Vietnam is a tale of 2000
years of conflict, invasions and rebellions. China, the Mongols,
France and the USA have all been repelled in this immense struggle
to nationhood. Today the country is united, its borders secure, and
the Vietnamese people are enjoying a lasting period of progress. By
Iain Stewart
IN THE BACKYARD of a giant neighbour, the Vietnamese have first and
foremost had to deal with China. They\u2019ve been resisting Chinese
domination from as far back as the 2nd century BCE and had to endure a
1000-year occupation.
The American War captured the attention of the West, but for the
Vietnamese the conflict was cataclysmic, leaving their nation in ruins and
with three million lives lost. Defiance and courage, two very Vietnamese
character traits ultimately prevailed, and the Americans were dispatched \u2013
the last in a long line of visitors who have come and gone. As far as Ho Chi
Minh was concerned, no matter what was required or how long it took, they
too would be vanquished.
In centuries past, the Khmers, the Mongols and Chams were all defeated.
There was a humbling period of colonialism under the French. As recently
as 1979, just after the cataclysmic horrors of the American War, with the
country on its knees, Vietnam took on an invading Chinese army. Inevitably
all these invaders have left their mark. The Chinese brought Buddhism,
Taoism and the principles of Confucianism. The French introduced
railways, and some grand architecture and cuisine. And though the
Americans left a devastated nation, Vietnamese pride remained intact.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Your gateway to knowledge and culture. Accessible for everyone.
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VIETNAM ContentsPLAN YOUR TRIPThe Journey Begins HereVietnam MapOur PicksRegions & CitiesItinerariesWhen to GoGet PreparedThe Food SceneThe OutdoorsTHE GUIDEHANOIFind Your WayPlan…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_kadence_starter_templates_imported_post":false,"_kad_post_transparent":"","_kad_post_title":"","_kad_post_layout":"","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4734","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-non-classe"],"yoast_head":"\n